9:35 made me laugh, that slow entry - The metallic pliers quietly move towards the softened glass rod, their precise jaws delicately closing in on their target. With its focus fixed on the gleaming rod, the pliers move slowly and deliberately. They wait, watching the rod with an unwavering focus, biding their time until the right moment to strike. Suddenly, and without warning, the pliers launch themselves at the molten glass! Tightening their grip in fractions of a second. With a swift and precise motion, the pliers manipulate the rod, delivering the clean finish that was desired. The task is complete in an instant, the glass rod oblivious while the pliers stand victorious, their sturdy body rippling with precision and accuracy. With the job done, the pliers release the remaining shards and return to their resting place, awaiting their next task.
Thanks for the video. It's a very useful topic - many of us need to brush up on our glass blowing skills. As always, looking forward to more videos! - ChemTalk
Great video series thank you so much, very informative for me - Not sure what eye protection you are using there but in my preliminary reseaech of glass blowing safety it appears that didymium safety glasses are recommended to protect eyes against the UV of the sodium flares with the addition of a welders #3 glass on top if working with small peices of hard (borosilicate) glass. Your glasses look clear so just thought I'd mention it.
Buy aura lenses please , all flameworker maestros i know and proffesors ive talked to use aura labs as there technology works the best ( some philips still let in some damaging IR ) DO NOT CHEAP OUT , especially on a pair you will be using daily . Didyium only filters out sodium flare , didyium does NOT filter radiation .
@@clalam5241 Now I'm really curious: what type of safety glasses do you mean exactly? When I google "aura lenses" or "aura glasses" I only find links to esoteric products that have nothing to do with lampworking... I attended a technical school in Austria for glass processing about 15 years ago and at that time didymium glasses were recognized worldwide as the best eye protection in the industry for lampworking... Even though I only do lampworking at home as a hobby these days, I would still prefer better protection for my eyes! If you can show me this apparently new type of safety glasses, I would be very grateful! Keywords or product names that I can google are enough since RUclips no longer allows links in its comment section... thanks in advance^^
I think when you use file to cut the tube only a tiny line in a few mm length is enough and when you bend it brake. doesn't need to go all around the tube.
A note, when lighting your map gas take your left hand and cover the holes right behind the tip then strike the starker of course after you turn the gas on a little, should lite up on first or second try, if it doesn't light turn gas off and investigate fuel source or clogged tip.
@@WheelerScientific is it necessary to score it all the way around? I've seen others just nick it with a file and snap it, but that may not have been borosilicate...
@@dl08in ´normaly´ or as professional we have special knifes, but it is basically just to make a short cut which makes a weakpoint like PLA stated but it gives also the direction of the crack. So if you cut it perpendicular it gives you a nice edge and if your cut is out of line the edge will be crooked. Sometimes it can help to smear a little spit or water over your cut just before breaking. Also you want to put your thumbs right next to your cut and have it facing away from you, so you can see the cut on the other side through a small gap between your thumbs. Reduces the risk of injury. Also it is not only pressure to break the tube, but also pulling apart, like with the paper, because glass has a very low pulling resistance. This way it is easier and safer.
9:35 made me laugh, that slow entry - The metallic pliers quietly move towards the softened glass rod, their precise jaws delicately closing in on their target. With its focus fixed on the gleaming rod, the pliers move slowly and deliberately. They wait, watching the rod with an unwavering focus, biding their time until the right moment to strike.
Suddenly, and without warning, the pliers launch themselves at the molten glass! Tightening their grip in fractions of a second. With a swift and precise motion, the pliers manipulate the rod, delivering the clean finish that was desired.
The task is complete in an instant, the glass rod oblivious while the pliers stand victorious, their sturdy body rippling with precision and accuracy. With the job done, the pliers release the remaining shards and return to their resting place, awaiting their next task.
I Love this story. Well done!
Very nice! I'm glad that you decided to make this video. I need to work on my glass warming techniques, so this series will help a lot.
Thanks for the video. It's a very useful topic - many of us need to brush up on our glass blowing skills. As always, looking forward to more videos! - ChemTalk
Great video series thank you so much, very informative for me - Not sure what eye protection you are using there but in my preliminary reseaech of glass blowing safety it appears that didymium safety glasses are recommended to protect eyes against the UV of the sodium flares with the addition of a welders #3 glass on top if working with small peices of hard (borosilicate) glass. Your glasses look clear so just thought I'd mention it.
Buy aura lenses please , all flameworker maestros i know and proffesors ive talked to use aura labs as there technology works the best ( some philips still let in some damaging IR ) DO NOT CHEAP OUT , especially on a pair you will be using daily . Didyium only filters out sodium flare , didyium does NOT filter radiation .
@@clalam5241 Now I'm really curious: what type of safety glasses do you mean exactly? When I google "aura lenses" or "aura glasses" I only find links to esoteric products that have nothing to do with lampworking...
I attended a technical school in Austria for glass processing about 15 years ago and at that time didymium glasses were recognized worldwide as the best eye protection in the industry for lampworking...
Even though I only do lampworking at home as a hobby these days, I would still prefer better protection for my eyes! If you can show me this apparently new type of safety glasses, I would be very grateful! Keywords or product names that I can google are enough since RUclips no longer allows links in its comment section...
thanks in advance^^
Keep on making videos like this
I think when you use file to cut the tube only a tiny line in a few mm length is enough and when you bend it brake. doesn't need to go all around the tube.
Can you explain how your doing this for how during the things you're doing use of the kiln
excellent tips. thanks. am just into it and really helps. specifically the tip to note that heated glass looks just like unheated one :))
A note, when lighting your map gas take your left hand and cover the holes right behind the tip then strike the starker of course after you turn the gas on a little, should lite up on first or second try, if it doesn't light turn gas off and investigate fuel source or clogged tip.
I believe they quit making map gas sometime ago the only reason they still use the yellow bottle is people like the yellow bottle
Excellent video as usual!!!
Really cool!
Couldn’t you just use the torch to make the piece smaller?
That's one hell of a meth pipe you've got there mate
Is that borosilicate or flint glass?
Boro
@@WheelerScientific is it necessary to score it all the way around? I've seen others just nick it with a file and snap it, but that may not have been borosilicate...
Well, I just put a nick in mine, you just want to create a weak point for the glass to flex and break.
@@dl08in ´normaly´ or as professional we have special knifes, but it is basically just to make a short cut which makes a weakpoint like PLA stated but it gives also the direction of the crack. So if you cut it perpendicular it gives you a nice edge and if your cut is out of line the edge will be crooked. Sometimes it can help to smear a little spit or water over your cut just before breaking. Also you want to put your thumbs right next to your cut and have it facing away from you, so you can see the cut on the other side through a small gap between your thumbs. Reduces the risk of injury. Also it is not only pressure to break the tube, but also pulling apart, like with the paper, because glass has a very low pulling resistance. This way it is easier and safer.
I actually got worse at blowing glass watching this… wtf is going on
It’s all about technique and practice, keep going and you will get better.
How much that pipes?
Thank-you!
You need more audio. The ads are really loud and you are not ?!!?
İt's to get your attention in case you doze off. İt's the same with TV ads. They wake up
ME manufacturing scientific glass sar
DUDE! Glass dust is very bad! You are filing on the tube and creating a bunch of it. Do not inhale. Safety mask at the very least!
Intro is too loud ...👿