You can also tie a top nock-set in the middle of your d-loop top knot. This keeps the top d-loop knot from moving up or down, allows you to space the inside of that knot slight above the nock (slop space), and keeps the nock away from pinching against the harder serving material at full draw. It also allows for a consistent place for the top knot to seat when replacing the loop. It doesn’t address the knock being slightly higher than the middle of the loop though. But really the difference is just splitting hairs at that point.
One of my local shops always does the first one, only using the one brass nock below, and usually what happens is over time the d loop starts to pinch. Another local shop doesn't even use nock sets and ties d loops in the same spot. I think John's method is the best one, above and below, to ensure your tune is maintained and prevents nock pinch.
Very interesting and of course I did it all wrong... Great help with the learning curve, here. Kudos. Can I ask a stupid question please: how are these brass knocks removed from the string without damaging the serving or string itself? Is there a certain tool for that and or how is it done please? Thank you and waidmannsheil
What about one knock point on the bottom like the 1st example, but the top part of the D-loop does not touch the knock ( same amount of space as if you were to tie in another knock point on top like your like it. The archery shop I go to tied mine in that way
@@Luke2002a rope release is d-loop material attached directly to the release (uncommon to see on modern releases but still a few are sold) and near the cleat itself and is wrapped around the string (that has tied nocks or brass nocks) and is attached back to the cleat of the release. As you maintain pressure pulling back to full draw it is your d-loop. It was quite prevalent in the archery world of compounds to use this method of a direct attachment of your release to the string. Wrist releases of old were designed with caliper style jaws (hence: caliper release) for this reason and attached directly to the string below a rubber cushion that pushed up against the arrow nock that was being held in position on the string by a tied and/or brass nock. All of this was similar to the no torque or torque less d-loop. Hope that helps.
I like to buy those no torque loops then instead of using as directed I girth hitch one end and then press the bow and run my string through a girth hitch on the other end of the torque loop. It looks like a d loop without any knots. It works out so that the serving on the premade loop interfaces with the release. I am not an expert but I think this might be the best way.
One of the best things I’ve done is switch from the standard BCY 2mm 24 braided poly loop material to the BCY braided spectra 1.6mm 23 material. It’s way tougher and more pliable (more forgiving to release torque). One loop lasts me an entire season. Only con is it doesn’t melt as nice.
I use the same d-loop material. 23 is tough and doesn't stretch. The best way to melt your ball on the loop is not to fuzz it up. Just heat it up and let it melt then push it with your finger.
I have to give credit where it is due, Dudley and Nock On are a big reason I started tuning my own bows. On the other hand, a question for Dudley. Does anybody else ever do anything right?
Showing how to adjust cables and string to get your bow back to spec would be nice. I just put new string and cables on mine, all the measurements are correct, but my poundage is 5lbs low. (Yes i did the twist cables and untwist string)
This is topic I would like to get more info on. I bought a PSE EVO EVL 34, the ATA and brace height are both off. I’ve found very little info on this topic.
You don't have my favorite configuration- an empty d loop. I did all sorts of different saddles that shifted to each other, wore out, and caused a lot of problems.Then I gave it up and since then I forgot about all this By the way , a brass pin can fly into the eye one day .
Would love a video on D loops lengths for different releases! I think it’s much needed!
Great demonstration and love hearing your thoughts on the how's and why's 👍🏼
perfect timing in releasing this video. Just about to setup a new set of strings. Thanks John!
Thank you John for putting out really good informational videos!
Great job! John,
Love the information, that you are putting out to help others.
Thanks Dud! Solid information and a true accuracy killer!
You da Man!
You can also tie a top nock-set in the middle of your d-loop top knot. This keeps the top d-loop knot from moving up or down, allows you to space the inside of that knot slight above the nock (slop space), and keeps the nock away from pinching against the harder serving material at full draw. It also allows for a consistent place for the top knot to seat when replacing the loop. It doesn’t address the knock being slightly higher than the middle of the loop though.
But really the difference is just splitting hairs at that point.
One of my local shops always does the first one, only using the one brass nock below, and usually what happens is over time the d loop starts to pinch. Another local shop doesn't even use nock sets and ties d loops in the same spot. I think John's method is the best one, above and below, to ensure your tune is maintained and prevents nock pinch.
Great tip!
I do a 4 knot under and 2 knot on top (nock set) standard D loop. Tried a few others and I like this one best (for me)
Hi John, can you talk sometime about string stop positions and effects on arrow flight?
I taking my bow in for a complete set of strings....I'll certainly make big inquires on the D loop set up.
Very interesting and of course I did it all wrong... Great help with the learning curve, here. Kudos.
Can I ask a stupid question please: how are these brass knocks removed from the string without damaging the serving or string itself? Is there a certain tool for that and or how is it done please?
Thank you and waidmannsheil
What about one knock point on the bottom like the 1st example, but the top part of the D-loop does not touch the knock ( same amount of space as if you were to tie in another knock point on top like your like it. The archery shop I go to tied mine in that way
Same
What’s your thoughts on rope releases? Saves wear and tear on the bow string
What’s that
@@Luke2002a rope release is d-loop material attached directly to the release (uncommon to see on modern releases but still a few are sold) and near the cleat itself and is wrapped around the string (that has tied nocks or brass nocks) and is attached back to the cleat of the release. As you maintain pressure pulling back to full draw it is your d-loop.
It was quite prevalent in the archery world of compounds to use this method of a direct attachment of your release to the string.
Wrist releases of old were designed with caliper style jaws (hence: caliper release) for this reason and attached directly to the string below a rubber cushion that pushed up against the arrow nock that was being held in position on the string by a tied and/or brass nock.
All of this was similar to the no torque or torque less d-loop.
Hope that helps.
Nice, thank you
I like to buy those no torque loops then instead of using as directed I girth hitch one end and then press the bow and run my string through a girth hitch on the other end of the torque loop. It looks like a d loop without any knots. It works out so that the serving on the premade loop interfaces with the release. I am not an expert but I think this might be the best way.
GRIV uses the torque less loop on his bows.
What preference do you recommend for old style single cam configurations?
One of the best things I’ve done is switch from the standard BCY 2mm 24 braided poly loop material to the BCY braided spectra 1.6mm 23 material. It’s way tougher and more pliable (more forgiving to release torque). One loop lasts me an entire season. Only con is it doesn’t melt as nice.
I use the same d-loop material. 23 is tough and doesn't stretch. The best way to melt your ball on the loop is not to fuzz it up. Just heat it up and let it melt then push it with your finger.
@@robertdavis1102good tip!
Same. I didn't think id notice, but i much prefer the more pliable 23 to the 24 now, especially how well it ties knots.
My setup is a tied nock top and bottom also
I have to give credit where it is due, Dudley and Nock On are a big reason I started tuning my own bows.
On the other hand, a question for Dudley.
Does anybody else ever do anything right?
My D-loop weighs 650 grains w/ 19% FOC
Had to do one below on short axel to axel (28in) but not that I moved to 33in I do both so much better
What about the metal D-loops?
My buddy had one , It wore out the metal jaws on his release !!
awesome :)
Remember if you don't shoot a hundred yards this means nothing. I tie the first one and can stack a thre shot group in a pop can at 50
Showing how to adjust cables and string to get your bow back to spec would be nice.
I just put new string and cables on mine, all the measurements are correct, but my poundage is 5lbs low. (Yes i did the twist cables and untwist string)
Cool idea
@@nockonarchery thanks, and any help would be appreciated lol.
This is topic I would like to get more info on. I bought a PSE EVO EVL 34, the ATA and brace height are both off.
I’ve found very little info on this topic.
Where is the metal D loop?
This video was 100% driven by the comments on the last nock video lol
You don't have my favorite configuration- an empty d loop. I did all sorts of different saddles that shifted to each other, wore out, and caused a lot of problems.Then I gave it up and since then I forgot about all this By the way , a brass pin can fly into the eye one day .
Im in this same team, empty d loop works the best.
Dude!! Can you tune my bow for me pretty pretty please ??😂
You probably shouldn’t knock it until you try it.😂