Great video with a great explanation at the end regarding why one could consider this option. The thought of having a flat rear end on one's rig is certainly appealing to many! Great job!!! 🙂👍
Thanks for this video to show me how the bits go. IMO first fill shocks, then put them between the cantilever triangle bits with the pin as well -- and I needed to add a washer bc the shock eye was narrower than the ball on the link. Then build the links and install them, and finally install the bearings, slip the big spacer into the triangles, and put the pin through. Then bolt them to the frame mounts and install them to the frame as an assembly, it's much easier.
awesome friggin video brother,only 1 on youtube,I'm doing a Jeep Comanche hardbody on my Trx-4 Sport Unassembled Kit Build and I'm definitely not cutting the flat bed up, and I was gonna angle my rear shocks using shock keys forward at angle,and after researching the best cantilever kits and which one to go with,one thing I Kno for sure is EXTRA SPEED said on there blog for a 312WB a 70mm shock is recommended,but waiting 2 months for a China boat to reach usa,I found the rclions CANTILEVER SETUP KIT for scx10 that has 70mm shocks then finding this video was amazing,the trx-4 and gen8 fb group had PICTURES and INFORMATION on this working,but ur video by far WAS THE BEST ONLINE MY RC BROTHER,TONS OF HOURS RESEARCHING AND UR VIDEO WAS THE BEST I CAME ACROSS MY GUY,IM SUBSCRIBER 321 AND AGAIN I JUST WANTED TO SAY THANK YOU!🤜🤛
Thanks. Rclions also had trx specific kit that has a different mounting plate. I got the scx10 because the measurement of the holes were perfect for the gen8
@@RustydriftRC YEA BUT TRX4 KIT BY RCLIONS ARE 80MM-90MM/WITH SCX10 KIT HAVING 70MM-80MM,WHICH ONE SHOULD I GO WITH?tHE TRX4 ONE OR OTHER ONE?MEANING THE #90046 AXIAL
Well, the trx kit will mount right up. If the 80mm shocks seem too long, you may be able to find shorter shocks, shorten the links from the axle to the rocker, or move the top mount of the shocks to get your desired ride height. The scx10 setup will have the 70mm shocks, but I don't know how the holes line up with a trx4 chassis, or if you'll need to drill new holes. I personally would get the trx version if I was putting it on a Trx sport, then sort out any adjustments. Good luck hope that helps a bit.
@@RustydriftRC 🤜🤛👍✌️🙌🙌1🤍,,INQUIRING MINDS THINK ALIKE,,YOU AND THIS NICE GUY FROM TEXAS DID A GREAT 2 MIN VIDEO,100%U KNO UR SHIT BROTHER,,THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR HELPING ME OUT,IT MEANS ALOT MY RC BROTHER THANK YOU🤜🤛
Ive been thinking of doing this but had a question, and hopefully youll still respond with your opinion since this is 2 years old. If i did a cab only body and left the rear end open, do you think you could swap the mounting plates from side to side (so the cantilever is in the front) to still run my 90 mm desert lizard shocks and have a lot more articulation in the rear?
You should be able to swap the plates side to side. You probably need to swap the rockers also. You’ll need to check that the holes line up, but drilling a new hole won’t be hard if you have to. Because of the leverage, you might need to tune your existing Shocks. Might need to add preload to stiffen them. I hope that helps. Good luck, thanks for commenting.
I'm happy with this setup, no complaints from me. Everything works and allows me to run a drop bed almost on the frame rails. The shocks seem pretty cheap, but work well enough. For the price, I'm happu with them. If you want to spend money on nicer shocks, the kit is still worth it for everything else that you get.
I am having a hard time threading the rod ends to the threaded shaft. Are the rod ends pre tapped? or do I tap the rod ends by screwing the shaft into the rod end?
They are not pre-tapped. They get threaded by the rod (it is tricky to get them started straight sometimes). You could try using a tap first if you have one, but it's not necessary.
There is no real performance advantage to this setup. It only provides clearance for a drop bed or other low profile body where the shock towers would be in the way, or sticking up through the body.
Could be done on the front also, but you might have to drill newl holes or get creative with where you mount the shocks. Here's a link www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08M5XMSGF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Thank you, I had put the link in a reply to someone else's comment. I did just now add it to the video description because it's been asked for a few times.
Just installed this to my trx4. You failed to mention that the shocks have no oil and you will have to fill them. I found a significant increase in articulation with this setup as well.
You gotta ditch those plastic wheels, they came off the knock off scx10ii chassis off eBay right? The tires in my opinion are better than real hyrax but you need more weight down low especially since you just put the cantilever on, ur going the wrong way with the center of gravity, just a suggestion. And Yeah racing or Hot racing I forget , but on ebay they sell a set of 70mm aluminum link tubes /M3 threaded that work perfect for a cross chassis brace low profile.
Those were just about cheap set of bead locks from Amazon, your right they were a bit light. My brother gave me a set of steel rings, and that seemed to do the trick.
Great video with a great explanation at the end regarding why one could consider this option. The thought of having a flat rear end on one's rig is certainly appealing to many! Great job!!! 🙂👍
Thanks for this video to show me how the bits go. IMO first fill shocks, then put them between the cantilever triangle bits with the pin as well -- and I needed to add a washer bc the shock eye was narrower than the ball on the link. Then build the links and install them, and finally install the bearings, slip the big spacer into the triangles, and put the pin through. Then bolt them to the frame mounts and install them to the frame as an assembly, it's much easier.
Thank you. That solved a problem I have been having with my XtraSpeed body mount on my Gen 8.
awesome friggin video brother,only 1 on youtube,I'm doing a Jeep Comanche hardbody on my Trx-4 Sport Unassembled Kit Build and I'm definitely not cutting the flat bed up, and I was gonna angle my rear shocks using shock keys forward at angle,and after researching the best cantilever kits and which one to go with,one thing I Kno for sure is EXTRA SPEED said on there blog for a 312WB a 70mm shock is recommended,but waiting 2 months for a China boat to reach usa,I found the rclions CANTILEVER SETUP KIT for scx10 that has 70mm shocks then finding this video was amazing,the trx-4 and gen8 fb group had PICTURES and INFORMATION on this working,but ur video by far WAS THE BEST ONLINE MY RC BROTHER,TONS OF HOURS RESEARCHING AND UR VIDEO WAS THE BEST I CAME ACROSS MY GUY,IM SUBSCRIBER 321 AND AGAIN I JUST WANTED TO SAY THANK YOU!🤜🤛
Thanks. Rclions also had trx specific kit that has a different mounting plate. I got the scx10 because the measurement of the holes were perfect for the gen8
@@RustydriftRC YEA BUT TRX4 KIT BY RCLIONS ARE 80MM-90MM/WITH SCX10 KIT HAVING 70MM-80MM,WHICH ONE SHOULD I GO WITH?tHE TRX4 ONE OR OTHER ONE?MEANING THE #90046 AXIAL
Well, the trx kit will mount right up. If the 80mm shocks seem too long, you may be able to find shorter shocks, shorten the links from the axle to the rocker, or move the top mount of the shocks to get your desired ride height. The scx10 setup will have the 70mm shocks, but I don't know how the holes line up with a trx4 chassis, or if you'll need to drill new holes. I personally would get the trx version if I was putting it on a Trx sport, then sort out any adjustments. Good luck hope that helps a bit.
@@RustydriftRC 🤜🤛👍✌️🙌🙌1🤍,,INQUIRING MINDS THINK ALIKE,,YOU AND THIS NICE GUY FROM TEXAS DID A GREAT 2 MIN VIDEO,100%U KNO UR SHIT BROTHER,,THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR HELPING ME OUT,IT MEANS ALOT MY RC BROTHER THANK YOU🤜🤛
Nice in-depth install very helpful info
nice job, my friend! thanks for sharing! big like! 👍👍👍
Ive been thinking of doing this but had a question, and hopefully youll still respond with your opinion since this is 2 years old. If i did a cab only body and left the rear end open, do you think you could swap the mounting plates from side to side (so the cantilever is in the front) to still run my 90 mm desert lizard shocks and have a lot more articulation in the rear?
You should be able to swap the plates side to side. You probably need to swap the rockers also. You’ll need to check that the holes line up, but drilling a new hole won’t be hard if you have to. Because of the leverage, you might need to tune your existing Shocks. Might need to add preload to stiffen them. I hope that helps. Good luck, thanks for commenting.
I have the same setup and used it cuz i went with a tf2 hardbody
Very cool 😎
How about an update? Any good?
I'm happy with this setup, no complaints from me. Everything works and allows me to run a drop bed almost on the frame rails. The shocks seem pretty cheap, but work well enough. For the price, I'm happu with them. If you want to spend money on nicer shocks, the kit is still worth it for everything else that you get.
@@RustydriftRC Thank you. Putting a Suburban body on the gen 8 and relocating the shock mounts would make it easier to add an interior.
I am having a hard time threading the rod ends to the threaded shaft. Are the rod ends pre tapped? or do I tap the rod ends by screwing the shaft into the rod end?
They are not pre-tapped. They get threaded by the rod (it is tricky to get them started straight sometimes). You could try using a tap first if you have one, but it's not necessary.
Hello, what is the advantage provided by this kind of suspension?
There is no real performance advantage to this setup. It only provides clearance for a drop bed or other low profile body where the shock towers would be in the way, or sticking up through the body.
Thank you!
Have a link to the kit you used ? Can this be done in the front as well or just the back?
Could be done on the front also, but you might have to drill newl holes or get creative with where you mount the shocks. Here's a link
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08M5XMSGF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Ok thanks.
You need a link for the product you installed
Thank you, I had put the link in a reply to someone else's comment. I did just now add it to the video description because it's been asked for a few times.
Just installed this to my trx4. You failed to mention that the shocks have no oil and you will have to fill them. I found a significant increase in articulation with this setup as well.
I should have mentioned the lack of oil, you're right. I've found most shocks come with little or no oil though.
You gotta ditch those plastic wheels, they came off the knock off scx10ii chassis off eBay right? The tires in my opinion are better than real hyrax but you need more weight down low especially since you just put the cantilever on, ur going the wrong way with the center of gravity, just a suggestion. And Yeah racing or Hot racing I forget , but on ebay they sell a set of 70mm aluminum link tubes /M3 threaded that work perfect for a cross chassis brace low profile.
Those were just about cheap set of bead locks from Amazon, your right they were a bit light. My brother gave me a set of steel rings, and that seemed to do the trick.