so many fashion content creators nowadays focus more on trends and fits rather than the other facets of the industry. so to see a video like this is so useful with regards to my own personal fashion journey because it just showcases a different side of fashion that I've always been curious about but didn't know where to start
Thanks, the reason why most content creators probably don’t make videos like this is because there isn’t mass appeal and most people won’t be interested in it - hence, not generating many views. The difference is my intention on RUclips is not necessarily to chase views blindly but to actually provide value as much as I can along the way. Same reason I don’t make style videos because I think style is individual and it would be so odd if I was constantly trying to influence people to dress like me.
I think Rachel Tashjian’s special allure as a writer is a combo of deep fashion knowledge, a sense of humour, an appreciation of the absurd, while also being an unabashed fashion fangirl. I wish she’d stayed at Bazaar!! But who can blame her moving up.
I learned about Tim Blanks when he used to do the “Fashion Files” on The “E”entertainment channel in the late 90’s. I’ve always liked him and still do, I’ve never met the guy in person but I’ve followed/ read/ watched his fashion reviews for 20+ years ! I also think Cathy Horyn is as phenomenal as Tim Blanks is. 😎
Ahhh.....The Battle of Versailles fashion show. I remember it quite well as it took place my freshman year at university and there was a lot of talk about it. It was long before the internet and tech social media, but the news got around by either word of mouth, telephone chitchat, or in print. I'm glad you mentioned the book as I don't know how I missed it when it first came out, but I just ordered it online. As for real critical views on fashion and fashion collections, they are far and few and it's been that way for a long time. There are times when I have heard reviews about fashion shows and collections with the reviewers oohing and ahhing over collections, but wondered if they had watched the show blindfolded. I miss the days when actual regular shoppers were invited to fashions shows. And a lot of us would see each other from show to show and we didn't hold back whether we liked or didn't like a collection or pieces in a collection. Plus, we expressed it in sales. We didn't walk on fashion eggshells. I remember being at a fashion show/luncheon of a famous European designer whose name I will not mention. We were sitting at round tables while the show was being presented and as some of the fashions came out, one of the women at my table looked over at her friend and commented, " Where is one to wear that? Maybe, while walking through the frozen food section at "---------'s grocery store? I went into quiet laughing hysteria. I remember that Mr. Blackwell was also at that fashion show/luncheon and was at the table next to mine. He never held back on fashion. He passed away 15 years ago here in L.A., in his mid 80s. Greetings from Los Angeles
tim blanks was like the edgy, gay uncle to elsa klensch's grand dame auntie for me when i was studying design in the late 80's & early 90's. they were my lifelines for fashion information, critique and tea in a pre-social media world (and before tim blank's hair was white 🙂.) it was james scully who turned me on to eugene rabkin and style zeitgeist, and i quite enjoy the raw honesty & lack of filter i find there. in a world where any social media influencer can (and does) consider themselves a fashion expert, i treasure all of these o.g.'s (blanks, horyn, givhan) who have the one thing that most of the influencers do not... points of reference. they're not just fans of fashion, they're graduate students of it.
I’ve mentioned it before: the Kate Betts byline. So good. She wrote a very poignant book about her experiences as an American expat living in Paris; “My Paris Dream”. Fresh from college and figuring out her way around the French job market, Ms.Betts ended up working for John Fairchild, at the WWD Paris bureau. It is a deep-dish pie worth diving into, highlighting the goings on in those rarified fashion circles at that time. That is from where she was recruited by Anna Wintour to direct the features department at American Vogue.
Tim Blanks while originally from the UK lived in Toronto for years while working on Fashion File. He was one of the nicest people & so down to earth unlike most people who work in fashion
I have been following for a little while and this is one of the by far the best context of fashion of writers. It’s very well researched I am glad you gave acknowledgement to many talent women writers of fashion which is largely a woman’s space. I am have been very critical of men in womenswear either 1) feeding into misogyny of the fashion industry 2) giving an already flood space of men drowning out women voices about fashion 3) like you said about the critics in the past, I think Loic Prigent does give the same vibes. 4) the fashion space has been inundated with dime a dozen fashion “experts” aka opinionators who are just people with bombastic personalities. They just have an opinion that is formed from regurgitating of the internet and not well researched content. Lordy lord lord forbid if they actually have a background in fashion other than they worked in retailed for a season or two. Anyway, you have some good stuff. You don’t always get it right like when I called you out about the spacer fabric on TikTok. But for the most part you have good content that’s interesting. To this point I have been on a new goal of correcting a lot of misinformation and fashion propaganda I see and hear on social media. I have just started getting a lot more serious on my social media platforms about sharing the knowledge I have gained for working for over 30 years in the industry for over 50+ brands. I have just started a series on my IGS called fashion discourse where I can offering counterpoints about what a lot of fashion writers are writing about with what I believe to be 1) sheer ignorance based on lazy writing 2) spreading the same misinformation for people to have misconceptions about the fashion industry. I am sure you’ve seen it 3) calling out what I believe is some shady under the table money because there is no way that’s right. The integrity of the piece is too glowing for the scandals associated with the person/brand from anyone who is remotely knowledgeable about the industry. The reason why I am writing this lengthy comment is because I would love interview you for my podcast sometime next year. After I am settled and have it running. Jus putting it out there to circle back later in your DM on IG. I am lining up with other people in the fashion industry to give a voice to people a different perspective on fashion discourse rather than the same tiresome narrative that I’m getting my ears burned off from at the moment. Ciao for now 👋🏻
According to Amy Odell's book, Style dot was started by Vogue in their efforts to get online. I haven't looked into it myself to confirm, but I wondered since I read that if its biased. I know Anna at Vogue is considered to be as unbiased as possible, just kind of leaving out what she doesn't like. But because its just left out, theres no negative, thats still a biased. Also, on Philo, she "invented" what he called ghetto chic because she commodified it for white people while she was in CSM, Sarah Mower wrote about it way back when
The style dot com point is definitely true I mean it was started at Condé Nast at a time before Vogue online existed. It was basically vogue runway before vogue runway. Tbh everything Conde Nast does is biased because of the nature in which it makes its money but at least from all the shows I watched with Tim Blanks as a presenter the critiques and takes were balanced. It didn’t seem like they were deliberately trying to steer a narrative of a show being good or bad. Also regarding the Phoebe Philo point, does popularising / commodifying something equate to the invention of it? I understand maybe what they were trying to say but then they should’ve just said she popularised it not invented it. I’m very critical on the specific words writers / journalists use because it’s literally their job to be deliberate with what they write.
@@FashionRoadman I agree she didnt invent it, thats a huge stretch. I think the writer misused the word "invent" to mean "appropriated" or "adopted" or perhaps even "popularised", though she didnt really do that bcs after CSM she changed her look up entirely. Either way, the writer is stretching very very hard
Loïc Prigent seems to produce fun and light paid content for designers and brands so I really don't expect his videos to offer any sort of critique or insight. He's more like a production house.
thank you, you have opened so many doors to fashion critique for me! I have stopped watching vogue , Loic prigent (light weight), and am more skeptical now when I read. do you know Charles Gandee? He wrote more about design, sometimes fashion, always an interesting way of writing. He had been the Creative Director of HG (House & Garden) and was the Features Editor at VOGUE in the 90's
Wooo! Love your passion! The only channel I watch about this theme. Everything was just pretentious disconected snobbish corrupted hedonism before I found your channel.
In Google chrome in the settings tab there is an option that says “On Start Up” on the left hand side. You can add links in this section which will open up every time you open Google chrome.
there are only two fashion reporter I really trust and they are Tim Blank and Suzy Menkes. I don't know the rest they are too young. Tim Blank wit his and how summarize a collection with perhaps great one liner Like Armani less is more except for the price. I also recall he mention a Chanel collection where one too many logo on clothing as Logo is talisman of good taste. I knew about Tim from Fashion file and Fashion TV. Suzy spoken her mind because her paper she write was for British Expat . She tell it like it is . She powerful and rank near the top. Although she has been more careful in what she said in her old age. thank you for your insight . I did an analysis but not as detail as your after fashion school. I discovered there are four component that is need to be successful, Money talent knowledge and right connection. After that, I left fashion behind for computers system
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
A follow up list focused on menswear writers would be epic.
This is a great idea!
Amen
so many fashion content creators nowadays focus more on trends and fits rather than the other facets of the industry. so to see a video like this is so useful with regards to my own personal fashion journey because it just showcases a different side of fashion that I've always been curious about but didn't know where to start
i get annoyed with those who make a video about what they wear and we should wear that were currently popular easthetics..
Thanks, the reason why most content creators probably don’t make videos like this is because there isn’t mass appeal and most people won’t be interested in it - hence, not generating many views.
The difference is my intention on RUclips is not necessarily to chase views blindly but to actually provide value as much as I can along the way.
Same reason I don’t make style videos because I think style is individual and it would be so odd if I was constantly trying to influence people to dress like me.
I think Rachel Tashjian’s special allure as a writer is a combo of deep fashion knowledge, a sense of humour, an appreciation of the absurd, while also being an unabashed fashion fangirl. I wish she’d stayed at Bazaar!! But who can blame her moving up.
100% agree!
Such a valuable video! I am starting a masters in Fashion Journalism at CSM in January! I can't wait xx
Congrats! I sometimes give guest lectures on the fashion journalism MA course at CSM so I may see you
@@FashionRoadman whatttt! That’s incredible. I am even more excited now - cannot wait 🔥
I've always appreciated your honesty about the fashion industry, it's strenghts and its failings.
11:20 The ego hides the lack of talent in any industry. Being infamous is more important than doing good work.
and we as a society are at fault for rwarding this behavior.
I learned about Tim Blanks when he used to do the “Fashion Files” on The “E”entertainment channel in the late 90’s. I’ve always liked him and still do, I’ve never met the guy in person but I’ve followed/ read/ watched his fashion reviews for 20+ years ! I also think Cathy Horyn is as phenomenal as Tim Blanks is. 😎
Ahhh.....The Battle of Versailles fashion show. I remember it quite well as it took place my freshman year at university and there was a lot of talk about it. It was long before the internet and tech social media, but the news got around by either word of mouth, telephone chitchat, or in print. I'm glad you mentioned the book as I don't know how I missed it when it first came out, but I just ordered it online.
As for real critical views on fashion and fashion collections, they are far and few and it's been that way for a long time. There are times when I have heard reviews about fashion shows and collections with the reviewers oohing and ahhing over collections, but wondered if they had watched the show blindfolded.
I miss the days when actual regular shoppers were invited to fashions shows. And a lot of us would see each other from show to show and we didn't hold back whether we liked or didn't like a collection or pieces in a collection. Plus, we expressed it in sales. We didn't walk on fashion eggshells.
I remember being at a fashion show/luncheon of a famous European designer whose name I will not mention. We were sitting at round tables while the show was being presented and as some of the fashions came out, one of the women at my table looked over at her friend and commented, " Where is one to wear that? Maybe, while walking through the frozen food section at "---------'s grocery store? I went into quiet laughing hysteria. I remember that Mr. Blackwell was also at that fashion show/luncheon and was at the table next to mine. He never held back on fashion. He passed away 15 years ago here in L.A., in his mid 80s.
Greetings from Los Angeles
Loved this!! Can u link the full video from the clip you included? I’d love to watch it!!
ruclips.net/video/3oRlkkhNByE/видео.htmlsi=dvKzXVsxd7VNx71h
tim blanks was like the edgy, gay uncle to elsa klensch's grand dame auntie for me when i was studying design in the late 80's & early 90's. they were my lifelines for fashion information, critique and tea in a pre-social media world (and before tim blank's hair was white 🙂.)
it was james scully who turned me on to eugene rabkin and style zeitgeist, and i quite enjoy the raw honesty & lack of filter i find there.
in a world where any social media influencer can (and does) consider themselves a fashion expert, i treasure all of these o.g.'s (blanks, horyn, givhan) who have the one thing that most of the influencers do not... points of reference. they're not just fans of fashion, they're graduate students of it.
I’ve mentioned it before: the Kate Betts byline. So good. She wrote a very poignant book about her experiences as an American expat living in Paris; “My Paris Dream”. Fresh from college and figuring out her way around the French job market, Ms.Betts ended up working for John Fairchild, at the WWD Paris bureau. It is a deep-dish pie worth diving into, highlighting the goings on in those rarified fashion circles at that time. That is from where she was recruited by Anna Wintour to direct the features department at American Vogue.
05:50 - Versace, Valentino, Chanel 🤫
(🏆💋 📚 ing) 😅
Tim Blanks while originally from the UK lived in Toronto for years while working on Fashion File. He was one of the nicest people & so down to earth unlike most people who work in fashion
he's not originally from the UK. he's from new zealand.
Yes, I had wanted to hear your take on Susie Menkes nd Hamish Bowles.
Also, would love to see a video on anna piaggi, i know little to none about her and would love to learn more of her work/story!
What are some fashion magazines you recommend for inspo and information
I really love your content, you’re the best at what you do Ayo❤
Thanks ❤️
I have been following for a little while and this is one of the by far the best context of fashion of writers. It’s very well researched
I am glad you gave acknowledgement to many talent women writers of fashion which is largely a woman’s space. I am have been very critical of men in womenswear either 1) feeding into misogyny of the fashion industry 2) giving an already flood space of men drowning out women voices about fashion 3) like you said about the critics in the past, I think Loic Prigent does give the same vibes. 4) the fashion space has been inundated with dime a dozen fashion “experts” aka opinionators who are just people with bombastic personalities. They just have an opinion that is formed from regurgitating of the internet and not well researched content. Lordy lord lord forbid if they actually have a background in fashion other than they worked in retailed for a season or two.
Anyway, you have some good stuff. You don’t always get it right like when I called you out about the spacer fabric on TikTok. But for the most part you have good content that’s interesting. To this point I have been on a new goal of correcting a lot of misinformation and fashion propaganda I see and hear on social media.
I have just started getting a lot more serious on my social media platforms about sharing the knowledge I have gained for working for over 30 years in the industry for over 50+ brands.
I have just started a series on my IGS called fashion discourse where I can offering counterpoints about what a lot of fashion writers are writing about with what I believe to be 1) sheer ignorance based on lazy writing 2) spreading the same misinformation for people to have misconceptions about the fashion industry. I am sure you’ve seen it 3) calling out what I believe is some shady under the table money because there is no way that’s right. The integrity of the piece is too glowing for the scandals associated with the person/brand from anyone who is remotely knowledgeable about the industry.
The reason why I am writing this lengthy comment is because I would love interview you for my podcast sometime next year. After I am settled and have it running. Jus putting it out there to circle back later in your DM on IG. I am lining up with other people in the fashion industry to give a voice to people a different perspective on fashion discourse rather than the same tiresome narrative that I’m getting my ears burned off from at the moment. Ciao for now 👋🏻
☺️ Thank you for sharing this with the children
Haha my pleasure
According to Amy Odell's book, Style dot was started by Vogue in their efforts to get online. I haven't looked into it myself to confirm, but I wondered since I read that if its biased. I know Anna at Vogue is considered to be as unbiased as possible, just kind of leaving out what she doesn't like. But because its just left out, theres no negative, thats still a biased.
Also, on Philo, she "invented" what he called ghetto chic because she commodified it for white people while she was in CSM, Sarah Mower wrote about it way back when
The style dot com point is definitely true I mean it was started at Condé Nast at a time before Vogue online existed. It was basically vogue runway before vogue runway. Tbh everything Conde Nast does is biased because of the nature in which it makes its money but at least from all the shows I watched with Tim Blanks as a presenter the critiques and takes were balanced. It didn’t seem like they were deliberately trying to steer a narrative of a show being good or bad.
Also regarding the Phoebe Philo point, does popularising / commodifying something equate to the invention of it? I understand maybe what they were trying to say but then they should’ve just said she popularised it not invented it. I’m very critical on the specific words writers / journalists use because it’s literally their job to be deliberate with what they write.
@@FashionRoadman I agree she didnt invent it, thats a huge stretch. I think the writer misused the word "invent" to mean "appropriated" or "adopted" or perhaps even "popularised", though she didnt really do that bcs after CSM she changed her look up entirely. Either way, the writer is stretching very very hard
I was so lost looking for insiders to deep dive in the fashion industry so thank you so much 🤎
Glad this helps
Another writer that I would love to hear your thoughts on would be Angelo Flaccavento.
Thank you for this. Going to check them out.
Thank you for sharing these!
great video! what’s the name of the chrome extension you mentioned?? thanks 🧡
Great ressource thank you
Zoolander is more accurate than we think 😅 brilliant video ❤
Loïc Prigent seems to produce fun and light paid content for designers and brands so I really don't expect his videos to offer any sort of critique or insight. He's more like a production house.
Definitely agree
So informative, thank you
thank you, you have opened so many doors to fashion critique for me! I have stopped watching vogue , Loic prigent (light weight), and am more skeptical now when I read. do you know Charles Gandee? He wrote more about design, sometimes fashion, always an interesting way of writing. He had been the Creative Director of HG (House & Garden) and was the Features Editor at VOGUE in the 90's
Maybe you can follow up with the 6 Fashion salesmen?
Wooo! Love your passion! The only channel I watch about this theme. Everything was just pretentious disconected snobbish corrupted hedonism before I found your channel.
Do a menswear writers list
Can someone please explain to me how he sets up his browser so he can always see the latest articles?
In Google chrome in the settings tab there is an option that says “On Start Up” on the left hand side. You can add links in this section which will open up every time you open Google chrome.
there are only two fashion reporter I really trust and they are Tim Blank and Suzy Menkes. I don't know the rest they are too young. Tim Blank wit his and how summarize a collection with perhaps great one liner Like Armani less is more except for the price. I also recall he mention a Chanel collection where one too many logo on clothing as Logo is talisman of good taste. I knew about Tim from Fashion file and Fashion TV. Suzy spoken her mind because her paper she write was for British Expat . She tell it like it is . She powerful and rank near the top. Although she has been more careful in what she said in her old age. thank you for your insight .
I did an analysis but not as detail as your after fashion school. I discovered there are four component that is need to be successful, Money talent knowledge and right connection. After that, I left fashion behind for computers system
Wait so the 700$ hoodies are just regular hoodies? I thought it was aome fancy Egyptian cotton or something.
Hold the hell up. You met Tim Blanks???
I sure did haha
Bro it’s hard to look directly at you , please bluer the face
Blur*