Harley Davidson Break In Period
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- Опубликовано: 9 май 2023
- Discussing the break in process on a new Harley Davidson.
Email: csa1nt@outlook.com
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Lugging the engine is when you allow the RPM to go too low and still giving it throttle.
I followed the manufacturer instructions to a Tee and had zero issues. To me it just doesn't make sense to climb on a $30K investment and ride the shit out of it the moment you leave the dealership. To this day, I've never exceeded 4000 rpm but I also don't baby it. Respect.
I would agree. With those low reving engines you’re riding it pretty hard to hit over 4000.
Following OE guidelines is always a good plan. Great content, hope the weather gets better for you.
Thank you. The weather has gotten much better lately. Now it just needs to stay that way.
I had no choice but to ride the bike home from the dealer when I bought my FatBoy. It was 360 KM and I spoke to the dealer about it and they said don't worry. I did ride a coastal route for the first 60 km or so at lower rpm before hitting the highway, but all is good. No issues and that was 2 years ago in April. So far this year, there has not been a day to ride yet as the weather sucks!
Sometimes the break in period doesn’t seem to matter. When you don’t have a choice what else can you do?
That’s terrible about the weather. We had a late Spring here but it’s gotten better. Hopefully things clear up soon.
Excellent video!
Thanks boss 👍
I just picked up a 23’ heritage with the 114. Did a stage 2, 2-1 rinehart and all of that fancy stuff to it, but this is my very first new motorcycle. Ive only had it 4 days, and only really got to putt around two of them.
I I let the motor warm up completely before taking it out, take it easy for the first couple minutes, then I start to roll into the throttle more. I probably look drunk, but I’ve been playing with the throttle. Roll on, roll off. Grab some rpms, drop some rpms. I’ve been shifting when necessary, but sometimes just down shifting just to roll into it and shift again. Been slowing down more by engine braking like I always used to do. I have probably been a little hard on the down shifts, I’ll admit. Kind of quick pop shifting sometimes while braking normally if I need to slow down. I’m doing my best to stay below the 3k rpm’s, but just hit 100kms so I might start going a little higher now. I’ve also been trying to not let the rpm’s drop much below 1700ish. I got the power cam, so perhaps that might have a play in it. Stalled the bike once the day I got it, forgetting that I had a 6speed. Haha. Almost took off in 2nd. (Neutral is an absolute bugger to find sometimes when parking). I hit the highway once for about 10 minutes at 100. Hit 120 just to pass for about 15 seconds. There’s a few areas in my city that are 70 and 80, so I’ve been on those a few times too. Besides that, I’m just out there literally having fun with it.
Your first brand new bike is exciting. Sounds like you’re going to have fun with those mods.
I have watched videos on experiments regarding break in of a new motorcycle engine... they took two approaches. First, they rode the first engine slow for a given number of miles. Second, they road the second engine like they stole it. They tore the engines apart after each test. The results were the same. Piston rings broke in just fine. With that said, I follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The most important part of the break in is at the factory. My understanding is that the rings start to seal right away after the initial startup and first heat cycle. Ride safe :-)
I suppose it may depend on what kind of engine it is. But you can’t really go wrong by following the factory recommendations.
@@canadiansa1nt309 the experiment dealt with two new motorcycle air cooled engines... same technology. 4 stroke.
I did my own 1600km service. Asked the dealer if it would void my warranty and they said no. Just save my receipts and take a picture of the odometer. As for oils I went with amsoil synthetic. 20w50 engine. Amsoil v twin primary and amsoil v twin transmission 👍 followed the books recommendation on break in fairly good lol
Sounds good. I used to use Amsoil in my Roadking. And it makes sense for you to do your own services living that far away from a dealer.
For sure. I don’t mind the trip but I like working on my bike. The 33 from stoughton sucks right now but the weyburn is nice.
I know someone who didn't do this with a 131 and blew their motor. Thank goodness for Warranty!
You got that right! 👍
Hey do you miss your fatboy or you are happy with the new one
I love my fatboy but I was thinking to trade for the road king but I’m not sure what you think?
I’m happy with the new bike. It’s definitely a different ride so I don’t miss the fatty too much.
I just ride like I normally do when breaking mine in.
Seems like a lot of folks do. I have in the past with no issues.
who has read the manual?
Exactly…
New HD M8, 500miles drop the oil and get synthetic in it, oil change again at 1000miles, do the rest of the 1K service with it. Safest nicest way to treat your brand new baby.
I personally would follow the break in procedures for an engine as close as I could. But once that 1000miles is done... ring out and ride like hell.
I do all of my services on the dot. Just did my 10k mile/16k km today on my Fat Boy.
I very much don't agree with the "Ride it Like you stole it" break in period guys. Engineers don't care about you being safe on the bike and a responsible rider. They want you to not screw up their hard work and trash the engine and make more unnecessary work for the company to waste time on. That mythos of "They do it to make sure you'll get used to a new bike" thing is just that... a Myth.
I agree 👍
Do you do your own service or take it to the dealership?
@@dlmp70 Myself.
I just did the 10K like a month ago.
Its literally impossible to follow break in guidlines.
I’m not sure I would go quite that far.
Follow the instructions! That's how easy it is to "break in" any new motorcycle engine or any engine, for that matter. Different metallurgy in rings and cylinders may or may not require different break in protocols. Cylinder honing techniques, lubricants, fuel ratios and cooling systems need to be taken into consideration. As do the tolerances and clearances used.
If you're having an engine rebuilt by a competent engine builder, follow their advice. If you're running in an "off the shelf" engine, follow the advice in the manual. It's there for a reason.
And if you think that you or one of your "friends" in some forum or another knows better than the twenty, thirty or forty engineers that it took to design the engine and get it to production stage, you're an idiot and you deserve everything that you bring upon yourself.
Hard run ins, soft run ins, no run in at all, this oil, that oil... nonsense, the lot of it. Follow the instructions! As an added bonus, your warranty wont be voided. And, yes, in some cases, it's very easy for an engineer to analyse failures in new engines and make a determination as to whether or not the engine has been run in within specifications.
I can’t say I would disagree with that.
@@canadiansa1nt309, Thank you. One last thing that I would like to add is that "race" engines aren't "road" engines, primarily due to their usage case.
It doesn't matter if they only last a few hours, in many instances.
So just because the "racing guys do this", doesn't mean you should.
Agreed. Different usages call for different qualifications.
My advise , being a hd tech for 5 years , dont takecyour bike to a dealer, unless you have a real big bank account , lmao, they bend you over, Harley motto, lol
If you buy a 25 grand led sled, you should know how to ride a bike,lol, better know basics before spending that much money, go learn on a 3 grand bike work your way up, ,😎
Im a luck y one got free Harley schooling 15grand, worth, im retired , eorked at a dealer for 5 years in AZ for 7 bucks a hour, lol, anyway they bend you over, learn to work on your led sled, and all the shit they add when buy new, hmm easy money for harley,lmao