I love it when you get into the technical side of engine building. You could have made a 2 hour video and I would watch every second of it. Great video Kevin!!
Back in 1995, a group of friends and I made the trip to the 100th Anniversary of HD in Milwaukee. We had a vip tour of the engine plant given to us by Bill Davidson, son of Willie G. Bill attended our H.O.G chapter in Columbia, South Carolina that year as it was our last chapter charity run. Our dealer later closed his business as he was retiring and no family to leave it to. Another dealer bought the business later. The point I am trying to make is how rough they are putting the engines together. A production job for sure. I watched the engine cases come down the ling to the piston install person and they took NO time slapping on the piston wrist pins and spring clips. Down the line to the ring installer and ten seconds later onto the jug install. This is where I thought, what the hell. The girl had what looked a plastic ring clamp and when she got the first ring on, SLAM goes the jug all the way down seating it on the crankcase. I have build. engines before and we tend to be gentle with the jog install. Oh well. I guess they know what they are doing.
Initial comment is an 8 year old account, I believe him. Might have his years wrong but his point he was trying to make about the assembly line came across.
I greatly appreciate your knowledge and ability to inform. Break-in is critical to how a engine will deliver performance years later. I worked with a Master Mechanic years ago and his rule of thumb was 3 hours of operation or less and then it's first oil change. We never had any problems using that as part of the formula for break-in. Ty Kevin and thanks again for your time.
This is the most definitive and comprehensive explanation I've heard yet in my youtube travels, thanks so much Kevin. Best of luck with the ongoing relocation.
It’s funny that you put up this video recently. I’m in the process of breaking in my twin cam. I’m giving break in oil a try. I’m using Driven 15W-50. I got about 22 miles on it of varying the rpm and loading the engine, then I changed oil. I’ve done this in the past with Dino oil and there’s always been a lot of particulates in the oil and stuck to the plug magnet. This time, there are a lot of very small particulates in the oil and almost nothing on the plug magnet. I refilled it with break in oil and I plan on running this another hundred or so miles, then change oil again to a non-synthetic oil which I plan on running 400 to 500 miles before changing it again. I put new cylinders, piston and rings on this bike because the last break in didn’t go so well and the rear cylinder was scored with excess blow by. I think part of the problem was not the right base map, too much compression, too much heat and I think I might have tweaked one of the rear cylinder rings on install. So far the bike is running great and the air fuel seems to be right on the money. I hope it turns out better this time.
As a retired Manufacturing Engineer for Waukesha Engines, Harley Davidson and Briggs & Strattion, I totally agree with you on this video. Honing is far more critical these days than years past. Many more parameters must be held. When breaking in a new engine I try to find hills to make the engine work up the hills forcing the rings out. I also change the oil at 1,000 miles or less. While I like synthetic oil in most engines, I have not had good luck with it in Harley's roller bearing engines. So I just use H.D. conventional oil and change it every 2,000 miles, like clock work. My 2020 Tri Glide holds 5 quarts so somewhat of over kill but for me it's cheap insurance. All my Harley have been high milage engines.
Congratulations on the new shop . I sort of have a good idea of what your talking about but my lack of understanding makes me want to watch your vidoes even more .Thank you Sir .
I got my Dyna new in 07. The dealer hadn't even prepped it when I got there, and I was lucky enough to put the 1st mile on it. I knew about the varying RPM and combustion pressure during break in, and rode it home about 30 miles accelerating hard, and then closed throttle decel, accel, decel, etc all the way home. Bike now has over 60, 000 miles on it, runs strong, and doesn't use any oil. I should put a compression gauge on it, just to see where it's at.
I swear I tell customers just about everything you just said!!!,lol I'm from a family owned and operated power sports business and we do a ton of engine jobs and I inform and explain everything and even have old parts and cut aways to show customers and after they see what you are talking about and that you know what you are talking about they seem to do the right thing... And those that don't I'll see them when the engine lets loss... And if they follow are recommended service time line they can get thousands and thousands of more miles with proper build and break in it goes hand and hand.... Great job on the video!!! ..... Bob......
Words of wisdom and experience. Thanks again for taking the time to explain the whys and the what the heck is happening inside an engine to your viewers.
Thanks for all the awesome info Kevin. Love every minute of it. Hope to be breaking in one of your motors in my bike some time soon. I like seeing the new place come together. Don’t get burnt out. Get your rest! Take care.
I followed Kevin's break in procedure he outlined in an earlier video about how HE breaks in engines that's HE'S built (though i did this on my new bike with a factory built 114). I had REALLY good luck with it. My bike seems to make a little more power than others with the same engine, it also has REALLY good compression and leak down numbers, and it also consumes very little oil. It seems like it's pretty common to see guys complaining of oil consumption as bad as a qt every 1k miles... Mine goes through about 1/4 qt in 3 miles. I'm really happy with my results from his recommended procedure even when used for factory engines. My dealer thought I was nuts because i refused to take the bike before I could come by and do the prescribed heat cycles which took a few days in total. I would drop in after work and start the bike, let it run for a few mins to get up to temp, then shut it down and let it cool for like 2 hours (long enough to completely cool)... Then fire it up one more time for a few minutes before leaving for the day. Then I simply followed the rest of his method and couldn't be happier!
Good to know you consider sound wave. You call it the wiper affect. I see it more like road wash boarding. Once it starts. Only one fix. Thank You Sir for your’ knowledge sharing.
I understand the basis for a proper break-in as Kevin describes but when I purchased my 2023 Road Glide Limited from my son’s HD dealership in Florida, I was forced to break it in on the ride back to Texas. I constantly varied the throttle position and changed gears (4-6) as often as possible. I also did constant roll-ons in 4-6 gear rolling up to 85-90mph and dropping back to 60, then rolling back up, never exceeding 4,000rpm. After an S&S 475C cam kit upgrade including oil pump and cam plate, my cyl compression numbers and leak down is right where it should be. The bike was dyno’d and a custom map was written for it. Output is 121hp and 129 TQ. I did the best I could breaking it in on the highway and it runs very strong with zero oil consumption.
Really interesting stuff, as a 2 stroke saw tuner and builder, where we take saws apart more frequently to keep them fresh I concur with your advice here.
I guess it's a shot in the dark for me. +.030 Superior pistons, Hasting rings, and oem cylinders. Already 100 miles on the motor. One oil change into it though, but looked like it was a good idea to do so. Useful info. Thanks for sharing.
The lifter needs to rotate to reduce sheer forces. It takes a lot more force to lift the lifter if it's not rotating and this is why you should never run synthetic oil during break-in. It would most likely knock the cam flat no matter what the break-in RPM is, I have seen this happen. This need to rotate is why the flat tappet lifter does not sit directly square on top of the cam it will be slightly offset so it will rotate. That cross hatch is there in order to help the piston rings “seat” or wear in to the cylinder.
I appreciate your videos, I not a expert . I have 2 Harleys that I had built . A 124 and a 143 both have what I wanted done to them and run pretty good . Both were heat cycled and tuned on a dyno . My oil usage and blow by seem to be to be good ..especially the SS 143 what a learning experience..
Excellent information, as usual, Kevin! Quick question... When you say to keep an eye on engine temperature during the break-in, are referring more to cylinder head temp, or oil temp? Thanks again for all the time, effort, and expertise you put into sharing these videos with us.
Thank You for the piece of mind that I did right despite what others say of different engine makes with break ins. So to take my motorcycle to work and back 10 starts with varied speeds under 55 mph for a week to get the 600 miles before first oil change isn't that bad. 3000-4000 rpm on my oversquare Buell engine. About to do my second oil change. Had one issue with no fuel pump but starter turned then moved it away from gas pump and fuel pump hummed and no starter. I added engine ground to starter. Runs and starts so much better.
I have been an Aircraft mechanic for almost 30 years and have rebuilt many GA piston engines. Although they are a horizontally opposed engine, they are very similar to most motorcycle engines. After a top end overhaul, we use mineral oil to break in the engine, run it at full power for 20-30 minutes to set the rings. EGT temps get pretty high during the run and we watch during the run for the temps to come down. Once they do come down to normal op temps, we drain the mineral oil and run the recommended oil which in most cases is 20W50 syn. I have always wondered if this could be used in the motorcycle world when doing a top end overhaul or with a new engine?
I've been doing a lot of research, apparently the HD dealer said that My engine has had a catastrophic failure. The mechanics said that I need a new flywheel assembly and bearings along with the complete top end. These are the same mechanics that can't adjust my clutch x3 (times already), forgot to put my nuts back on my exhaust after a clutch / brake hydraulic flush. Definitely need a 2nd opinion and my engine.
Kevin I have a long diagnostic question. I’m a DIY guy and I really am intrigued by all your knowledge that you share with us. Hope you respond but I realize you can’t fully diagnose an issue over a RUclips comment. My bike (2015 street glide 103 TC stock engine with intake, exhaust and power vision) at 14k miles is losing 1.5 QTs of oil in 3,000 miles. It runs flawlessly in my humble opinion and has zero external oil leaks or migration to other compartments. It does show a couple of symptoms though. For one, I have a rich oily smell under deceleration (unless I pull the clutch of course) and also, my spark plugs show brown staining only on ONE side of the insulator. Plugs also have a very faint off-white chalky residue on the ground strap, which I remember in your other video you said could be an indication of oil intrusion. I plan to mark and remove the plugs to see if the brown stain happens to be pointed toward the intake valve and also do a compression test. But is the one sided porcelain stain and oily smell on decel an indication of bad valve guide seals possibly? Also, the bike does get a little oil in the air cleaner but nothing excessive whatsoever, and I keep the oil at halfway up the stick and check it under the same conditions and in the same location every time. I know your time is valuable but I hope to gain some insight as to what your expert opinion would be. Thanks a lot
Looks like that shot is really awesome man? I wish I had a shop like that. I got a 30 by 60 garage and I got it full of my grandkids right lawn mowers and junk and the 17 color engine set an. Outside on a pallet that needs repair so I've been pretty busy for the last couple of months. But I'm impressed I like that shop. I wish to ahead when that size.
Am breaking in my used 2022 M8 softail street bob as per the manual. Riding at all different speeds and revs but not exceeding 3500rpm in any gear. Are these engines junk because the quality control is not up to much on these M8's. My streetbob has 79 miles on it. Rode 6 miles home from the dealers and noticed a small pool of oil sitting at the base of the rear cylinder. As far left as you can go before hitting the inner primary mounting bolt if thats what that is. There is a small recess at the base of the cylinder and the oil is up cycling in that area. I noticed that the sump pan had oil forming across from that side having run down between the inner and out primaries. Prob due to the small amount becoming a larger amount then at left lean spilling down into that area. At cold feeling all around there is no trace of oil coming from any of the head cooling pipes or the fitting at the rear cylinder. For it to form in that recess oil would have to be running down from somewhere and its not. its up cycling through either the alloy or a harline crack. So much for a 120 point inspection utter bullshit!
I was always told that the reason for a hone, is that it leaves little perches in the bore surface for oil to cling to. And this oil aids compression as it is rubbed off and reapplied by crankcase splash everytime the piston makes a 360 degree cycle
I always used 2000 grit emery clothe after manual honing by hand. Our mechanic taught me this in 1979. I haven't done a motor since the mid-80s. Would this be wrong????
I have a 97 roadking, stock 80 evo engine. It’s time it needs a rebuild. I am considering buying a Ultima. I’m only looking for reliability, I’ve been riding the 1997 for 20 years. I don’t care about making it faster. What would be the best way to go? Is 100 inch or 107 inch Ultima engine reliable, is that going to be more reliable than rebuilding my old 80 inch Harley Evo?
I know from the old shovehead days, the engine needs a fair amount of gas for cold start. Why is my 2021 M8 trying to blow up at cold start with high rpm starting? One dealer tech told me is was to recharge what it took to crank the engine from the battery. Sounds a little strange to me. Is the computer just adding a ton of fuel for the cold start? Jerry
When you build an engine for a customer is the break in process part of what you do before customer delivery ? Or do you give the break in instructions to them and hope they will do it properly ?
I'm ordering a new 2023 limited with a 114. Before delivery I'm having the dealer install a s&s 475 cam and there putting it on a dyno. Is this going to hurt the break in???
not sure why your leaving out when you build a new motor, to truly do it right, you should be on a dyno on mile zero first startup with a wideband o2, as you say to get your o2 readings correct on startup, if plateau honed your rings are sealing within 20miles, 50 miles not even necessary, your on rollers putting load on the bike car either one, cycling the rpms and heat until your sufficiently seated the rings which does not take as long on the dyno and your seeing proper a/f timing etc... coutless motors this way and great comp and leak down unless crappy machining was done, you've spent a ton a money on the motor this should be a must on the list before you turn the key... my 2 cents
I’m currently building my 2015 SG from a 103 to a 107, do you have any recommendations on building oil pressure in the engine before the first initial startup? Would simply unplugging the spark plug wires and running the starter be enough to build sufficient oil pressure for a startup? Any help would be greatly appreciated 🤘🏻
That's what I'm doing. Everything was generally cleaned, oiled, with assembly lube where applicable. I used to pull the oil pressure sensor & get some pre fill in there, but the MoCo tapped the engine case in a 1/2 moon rendering it useless. Post back & let me know how you did.
Would breaking in an engine with a little bit of 2 stroke oil mixed with the gasoline be a bad idea ? Not enough to limit the break in, but a bit to forgive any AFR variance
Ever watch dealership employees riding the new bikes or all the test rides by customers. Probably those first low miles you see on the speedometer the engine has already been abused.
Got 400 miles on new 2023 roadglide special. Is it ok to just do cam now and dyno tune. Obviously changing all fluids. Asking because its 600 miles before harley recommends.
@Kevin Baxter..... bossman I called and left a message last week on the machine. I'm here in GA too so I really would like to get with you on my questions and upgrades. My engine is a "Ultima 107"... yeah yeah.. but that's what was on the bike when I got it. Its a beautiful American Iron horse chopper. My problem/questions regards oil pressure dropping. At cold crank up. It's got like 40-45 lbs. 20-w 50 oil. When it warms up it falls back like most do. 5-8 psi at idle. My oil pressure drops and my oil temperature is only around 145 degrees. Not 200 + like everyone else's bikes. What would be the culprit of this bossman. I didn't see anything abnormal the last time I changed the oil. But I'm going to change and inspect it tomorrow. Could it be the Ultima lifters going bad.. I hear there not the greatest. I'm from the drag racing world and the harley-davidson engines is new to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. On your shop answering machine my name is Tom Peebles . I left my phone number as well. Please shoot me a text or a call if you get time. I understand you got big money jobs and my little problem isn't that much. In the future im wanting to get this bike dyno tuned by you as well. Thank you in advance Kevin. 👍
Kevin What is the normal operating temperature on a screaming eagle stage 3 M-8 I do run a oil cooler fan.. I do live in Florida and I’ve noticed that my engine is running around 320 degrees which is shown on my power vision tuner.. I know there is other factors involved, I guess lm just looking for a base line.. Thanks a bunch !
I wish this video was out a week ago when I received my bike. Done 460 miles mostly riding the highway mixed with some city riding. Anything I can do at this point?
Last year I bought a new bike from Harley. I rode about 120 miles on highway straight home thinking I was doing a good thing. Nothing seems wrong. There’s probably nothing you can do now. Harley should tell you how to break it in b4 you leave
i have called about getting my heads ported and nobody has returned my call i have called 4 times im a disabled vet 100% i hope you will returned my call and im a paid supporter of you
Hello sir. We do received hundreds of calls a day, however, if messages are left, calls are typically reurned in 24 hrs or so during normal business. It may be better to email me directly and i can get your questions answer3d. Thank you for your patience sir
This is a really bad idea. The manual is written by lawyers for a company far more interested in covering their liability over properly breaking in an engine.
Bro...I need your help. I'm 15 min away from you. 2003 ultra classic. I think the new heat temp is defective, have you seen this before or if it possible? I've checked the wiring and 🔌 and looks good.
Don't spend the whole budget on buying the bike. With pre owned there's almost always been a shortfall in the maintenance budget. Buy one you can afford to maintain.
What Manufacturer runs a engine at around 1500-2000 RPM to break-in a cam ??? NONE... come on Kevin factory engines i bet never start-up a engine ever. look at a exhaust pipe if it is black sult on the pipes ??? never and super clean, they don't start up any car or truck or motorcycle and run it so why should we ???
Manufacturers actually do what’s called a “Cold Fire And Run”. As for this tutorial about Cams, he’s speaking in Solid Lifter Cams and yes, every engine builder when building a solid lifter cam does break it in in this way if they want it to Live.
I love it when you get into the technical side of engine building. You could have made a 2 hour video and I would watch every second of it. Great video Kevin!!
I took delivery on a new FXD. It was down 1 quart of oil. Before you break in your new/rebuilt engine check all the fluids.
This guy is brilliant. Just plain f-ing brilliant.
Back in 1995, a group of friends and I made the trip to the 100th Anniversary of HD in Milwaukee. We had a vip tour of the engine plant given to us by Bill Davidson, son of Willie G. Bill attended our H.O.G chapter in Columbia, South Carolina that year as it was our last chapter charity run. Our dealer later closed his business as he was retiring and no family to leave it to. Another dealer bought the business later. The point I am trying to make is how rough they are putting the engines together. A production job for sure. I watched the engine cases come down the ling to the piston install person and they took NO time slapping on the piston wrist pins and spring clips. Down the line to the ring installer and ten seconds later onto the jug install. This is where I thought, what the hell. The girl had what looked a plastic ring clamp and when she got the first ring on, SLAM goes the jug all the way down seating it on the crankcase. I have build. engines before and we tend to be gentle with the jog install. Oh well. I guess they know what they are doing.
Ahhh, Harley was established in 1903….
The 100th anniversary was 2003. I was there.
Better check your dates, Harley was founded in 1903. 1995 is only 92 yrs. not 100.
Initial comment is an 8 year old account, I believe him. Might have his years wrong but his point he was trying to make about the assembly line came across.
I was at the 90th in 93… so I think your a little off but point well taken!
Kevin, You have the best channel on YT for Harley engine information. I like the tear down series. Very, very informative.
I greatly appreciate your knowledge and ability to inform.
Break-in is critical to how a engine will deliver performance years later.
I worked with a Master Mechanic years ago and his rule of thumb was 3 hours of operation or less and then it's first oil change.
We never had any problems using that as part of the formula for break-in.
Ty Kevin and thanks again for your time.
This is the most definitive and comprehensive explanation I've heard yet in my youtube travels, thanks so much Kevin. Best of luck with the ongoing relocation.
It’s funny that you put up this video recently. I’m in the process of breaking in my twin cam. I’m giving break in oil a try. I’m using Driven 15W-50. I got about 22 miles on it of varying the rpm and loading the engine, then I changed oil. I’ve done this in the past with Dino oil and there’s always been a lot of particulates in the oil and stuck to the plug magnet. This time, there are a lot of very small particulates in the oil and almost nothing on the plug magnet. I refilled it with break in oil and I plan on running this another hundred or so miles, then change oil again to a non-synthetic oil which I plan on running 400 to 500 miles before changing it again.
I put new cylinders, piston and rings on this bike because the last break in didn’t go so well and the rear cylinder was scored with excess blow by. I think part of the problem was not the right base map, too much compression, too much heat and I think I might have tweaked one of the rear cylinder rings on install.
So far the bike is running great and the air fuel seems to be right on the money. I hope it turns out better this time.
As a retired Manufacturing Engineer for Waukesha Engines, Harley Davidson and Briggs & Strattion, I totally agree with you on this video. Honing is far more critical these days than years past. Many more parameters must be held. When breaking in a new engine I try to find hills to make the engine work up the hills forcing the rings out. I also change the oil at 1,000 miles or less. While I like synthetic oil in most engines, I have not had good luck with it in Harley's roller bearing engines. So I just use H.D. conventional oil and change it every 2,000 miles, like clock work. My 2020 Tri Glide holds 5 quarts so somewhat of over kill but for me it's cheap insurance. All my Harley have been high milage engines.
Hands down the best break in video I’ve ever watched. Thank you Kevin.
This was a marvelous explanation of the break in procedure that I had not previously understood!! Thanks Kevin.
Congratulations on the new shop . I sort of have a good idea of what your talking about but my lack of understanding makes me want to watch your vidoes even more .Thank you Sir .
I got my Dyna new in 07. The dealer hadn't even prepped it when I got there, and I was lucky enough to put the 1st mile on it. I knew about the varying RPM and combustion pressure during break in, and rode it home about 30 miles accelerating hard, and then closed throttle decel, accel, decel, etc all the way home. Bike now has over 60, 000 miles on it, runs strong, and doesn't use any oil. I should put a compression gauge on it, just to see where it's at.
I swear I tell customers just about everything you just said!!!,lol I'm from a family owned and operated power sports business and we do a ton of engine jobs and I inform and explain everything and even have old parts and cut aways to show customers and after they see what you are talking about and that you know what you are talking about they seem to do the right thing... And those that don't I'll see them when the engine lets loss... And if they follow are recommended service time line they can get thousands and thousands of more miles with proper build and break in it goes hand and hand.... Great job on the video!!! ..... Bob......
I love how you break this down into easy to understand concepts that we can use. Another very great video!
Kevin I really appreciate and enjoy your videos and I learn things all the time. You are a valuable resource. Thanks again.
Words of wisdom and experience. Thanks again for taking the time to explain the whys and the what the heck is happening inside an engine to your viewers.
Thanks for all the awesome info Kevin. Love every minute of it. Hope to be breaking in one of your motors in my bike some time soon. I like seeing the new place come together. Don’t get burnt out. Get your rest! Take care.
Ive watched many of your vids you are very smart your knowledge scares me my 2019 107 m8 runs fine but im always worried about it
Good video! Which I would of seen this before reading the HD owner’s manual. His explanation and what the manual says to do are very different.
I followed Kevin's break in procedure he outlined in an earlier video about how HE breaks in engines that's HE'S built (though i did this on my new bike with a factory built 114). I had REALLY good luck with it. My bike seems to make a little more power than others with the same engine, it also has REALLY good compression and leak down numbers, and it also consumes very little oil. It seems like it's pretty common to see guys complaining of oil consumption as bad as a qt every 1k miles... Mine goes through about 1/4 qt in 3 miles. I'm really happy with my results from his recommended procedure even when used for factory engines. My dealer thought I was nuts because i refused to take the bike before I could come by and do the prescribed heat cycles which took a few days in total. I would drop in after work and start the bike, let it run for a few mins to get up to temp, then shut it down and let it cool for like 2 hours (long enough to completely cool)... Then fire it up one more time for a few minutes before leaving for the day. Then I simply followed the rest of his method and couldn't be happier!
Good to know you consider sound wave. You call it the wiper affect. I see it more like road wash boarding. Once it starts. Only one fix. Thank You Sir for your’ knowledge sharing.
I understand the basis for a proper break-in as Kevin describes but when I purchased my 2023 Road Glide Limited from my son’s HD dealership in Florida, I was forced to break it in on the ride back to Texas. I constantly varied the throttle position and changed gears (4-6) as often as possible. I also did constant roll-ons in 4-6 gear rolling up to 85-90mph and dropping back to 60, then rolling back up, never exceeding 4,000rpm. After an S&S 475C cam kit upgrade including oil pump and cam plate, my cyl compression numbers and leak down is right where it should be. The bike was dyno’d and a custom map was written for it. Output is 121hp and 129 TQ. I did the best I could breaking it in on the highway and it runs very strong with zero oil consumption.
Really interesting stuff, as a 2 stroke saw tuner and builder, where we take saws apart more frequently to keep them fresh I concur with your advice here.
Thank you Kevin for your knowledge and time sharing it!
I guess it's a shot in the dark for me. +.030 Superior pistons, Hasting rings, and oem cylinders. Already 100 miles on the motor. One oil change into it though, but looked like it was a good idea to do so. Useful info. Thanks for sharing.
Great guy just discovered you amazing knowledge
The lifter needs to rotate to reduce sheer forces. It takes a lot more force to lift the lifter if it's not rotating and this is why you should never run synthetic oil during break-in. It would most likely knock the cam flat no matter what the break-in RPM is, I have seen this happen. This need to rotate is why the flat tappet lifter does not sit directly square on top of the cam it will be slightly offset so it will rotate.
That cross hatch is there in order to help the piston rings “seat” or wear in to the cylinder.
I appreciate your videos, I not a expert . I have 2 Harleys that I had built . A 124 and a 143 both have what I wanted done to them and run pretty good . Both were heat cycled and tuned on a dyno . My oil usage and blow by seem to be to be good ..especially the SS 143 what a learning experience..
Excellent information, as usual, Kevin! Quick question... When you say to keep an eye on engine temperature during the break-in, are referring more to cylinder head temp, or oil temp? Thanks again for all the time, effort, and expertise you put into sharing these videos with us.
Thank You for the piece of mind that I did right despite what others say of different engine makes with break ins. So to take my motorcycle to work and back 10 starts with varied speeds under 55 mph for a week to get the 600 miles before first oil change isn't that bad. 3000-4000 rpm on my oversquare Buell engine. About to do my second oil change. Had one issue with no fuel pump but starter turned then moved it away from gas pump and fuel pump hummed and no starter. I added engine ground to starter. Runs and starts so much better.
Just bought a new Street Glide and all back road riding to break it in like you suggested. Thanks
Stopped for a break and guess who's on. Well KB. She's tapping the shoulder. Gotta run. Will watch when finished.
I have been an Aircraft mechanic for almost 30 years and have rebuilt many GA piston engines. Although they are a horizontally opposed engine, they are very similar to most motorcycle engines. After a top end overhaul, we use mineral oil to break in the engine, run it at full power for 20-30 minutes to set the rings. EGT temps get pretty high during the run and we watch during the run for the temps to come down. Once they do come down to normal op temps, we drain the mineral oil and run the recommended oil which in most cases is 20W50 syn. I have always wondered if this could be used in the motorcycle world when doing a top end overhaul or with a new engine?
Appreciate the knowledge pal 🤜
I've been doing a lot of research, apparently the HD dealer said that My engine has had a catastrophic failure. The mechanics said that I need a new flywheel assembly and bearings along with the complete top end. These are the same mechanics that can't adjust my clutch x3 (times already), forgot to put my nuts back on my exhaust after a clutch / brake hydraulic flush. Definitely need a 2nd opinion and my engine.
Thank you very much dude this was absolutely very useful information. I appreciate you taking the time to help us all out.
Good information. Thank you. Where in Tennessee are you headed to?????
Kevin I have a long diagnostic question. I’m a DIY guy and I really am intrigued by all your knowledge that you share with us. Hope you respond but I realize you can’t fully diagnose an issue over a RUclips comment. My bike (2015 street glide 103 TC stock engine with intake, exhaust and power vision) at 14k miles is losing 1.5 QTs of oil in 3,000 miles. It runs flawlessly in my humble opinion and has zero external oil leaks or migration to other compartments. It does show a couple of symptoms though. For one, I have a rich oily smell under deceleration (unless I pull the clutch of course) and also, my spark plugs show brown staining only on ONE side of the insulator. Plugs also have a very faint off-white chalky residue on the ground strap, which I remember in your other video you said could be an indication of oil intrusion. I plan to mark and remove the plugs to see if the brown stain happens to be pointed toward the intake valve and also do a compression test. But is the one sided porcelain stain and oily smell on decel an indication of bad valve guide seals possibly? Also, the bike does get a little oil in the air cleaner but nothing excessive whatsoever, and I keep the oil at halfway up the stick and check it under the same conditions and in the same location every time. I know your time is valuable but I hope to gain some insight as to what your expert opinion would be. Thanks a lot
Looks like that shot is really awesome man? I wish I had a shop like that. I got a 30 by 60 garage and I got it full of my grandkids right lawn mowers and junk and the 17 color engine set an. Outside on a pallet that needs repair so I've been pretty busy for the last couple of months. But I'm impressed I like that shop. I wish to ahead when that size.
All good information, thank you for sharing
Am breaking in my used 2022 M8 softail street bob as per the manual. Riding at all different speeds and revs but not exceeding 3500rpm in any gear. Are these engines junk because the quality control is not up to much on these M8's. My streetbob has 79 miles on it. Rode 6 miles home from the dealers and noticed a small pool of oil sitting at the base of the rear cylinder. As far left as you can go before hitting the inner primary mounting bolt if thats what that is. There is a small recess at the base of the cylinder and the oil is up cycling in that area. I noticed that the sump pan had oil forming across from that side having run down between the inner and out primaries. Prob due to the small amount becoming a larger amount then at left lean spilling down into that area. At cold feeling all around there is no trace of oil coming from any of the head cooling pipes or the fitting at the rear cylinder. For it to form in that recess oil would have to be running down from somewhere and its not. its up cycling through either the alloy or a harline crack. So much for a 120 point inspection utter bullshit!
I was always told that the reason for a hone, is that it leaves little perches in the bore surface for oil to cling to. And this oil aids compression as it is rubbed off and reapplied by crankcase splash everytime the piston makes a 360 degree cycle
Great information!! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for you time
I always used 2000 grit emery clothe after manual honing by hand. Our mechanic taught me this in 1979. I haven't done a motor since the mid-80s. Would this be wrong????
Question? How does a person / mechanic go about doing extended service plan work threw a non Harley dealership?
I will definitely need to watch this.
I have a 97 roadking, stock 80 evo engine.
It’s time it needs a rebuild. I am considering buying a Ultima.
I’m only looking for reliability, I’ve been riding the 1997 for 20 years. I don’t care about making it faster.
What would be the best way to go? Is 100 inch or 107 inch Ultima engine reliable, is that going to be more reliable than rebuilding my old 80 inch Harley Evo?
How about a new stock HD with with S&S stage 2 kit upgrade?
I know from the old shovehead days, the engine needs a fair amount of gas for cold start. Why is my 2021 M8 trying to blow up at cold start with high rpm starting? One dealer tech told me is was to recharge what it took to crank the engine from the battery. Sounds a little strange to me. Is the computer just adding a ton of fuel for the cold start? Jerry
Yes, the ECM enrichens the mixture at startup.
Avoid that 'technician' like the plague.
Thank you sir for that info
When you build an engine for a customer is the break in process part of what you do before customer delivery ? Or do you give the break in instructions to them and hope they will do it properly ?
Great advice
I'm ordering a new 2023 limited with a 114. Before delivery I'm having the dealer install a s&s 475 cam and there putting it on a dyno. Is this going to hurt the break in???
Thank you for great information.
not sure why your leaving out when you build a new motor, to truly do it right, you should be on a dyno on mile zero first startup with a wideband o2, as you say to get your o2 readings correct on startup, if plateau honed your rings are sealing within 20miles, 50 miles not even necessary, your on rollers putting load on the bike car either one, cycling the rpms and heat until your sufficiently seated the rings which does not take as long on the dyno and your seeing proper a/f timing etc... coutless motors this way and great comp and leak down unless crappy machining was done, you've spent a ton a money on the motor this should be a must on the list before you turn the key... my 2 cents
I’m currently building my 2015 SG from a 103 to a 107, do you have any recommendations on building oil pressure in the engine before the first initial startup? Would simply unplugging the spark plug wires and running the starter be enough to build sufficient oil pressure for a startup? Any help would be greatly appreciated 🤘🏻
That's what I'm doing. Everything was generally cleaned, oiled, with assembly lube where applicable. I used to pull the oil pressure sensor & get some pre fill in there, but the MoCo tapped the engine case in a 1/2 moon rendering it useless. Post back & let me know how you did.
What is considered to hot? What temperature is the hottest you want your engine to ever get to
Would breaking in an engine with a little bit of 2 stroke oil mixed with the gasoline be a bad idea ? Not enough to limit the break in, but a bit to forgive any AFR variance
Yes it's a bad idea
How do you prime the oil on a new motor on a twin motor
Ever watch dealership employees riding the new bikes or all the test rides by customers. Probably those first low miles you see on the speedometer the engine has already been abused.
Got 400 miles on new 2023 roadglide special. Is it ok to just do cam now and dyno tune. Obviously changing all fluids. Asking because its 600 miles before harley recommends.
Is conveninal oil better than synthetic for break in period
God bless Kevin!!
@Kevin Baxter..... bossman I called and left a message last week on the machine. I'm here in GA too so I really would like to get with you on my questions and upgrades. My engine is a "Ultima 107"... yeah yeah.. but that's what was on the bike when I got it. Its a beautiful American Iron horse chopper. My problem/questions regards oil pressure dropping. At cold crank up. It's got like 40-45 lbs. 20-w 50 oil. When it warms up it falls back like most do. 5-8 psi at idle. My oil pressure drops and my oil temperature is only around 145 degrees. Not 200 + like everyone else's bikes. What would be the culprit of this bossman. I didn't see anything abnormal the last time I changed the oil. But I'm going to change and inspect it tomorrow. Could it be the Ultima lifters going bad.. I hear there not the greatest. I'm from the drag racing world and the harley-davidson engines is new to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. On your shop answering machine my name is Tom Peebles . I left my phone number as well. Please shoot me a text or a call if you get time. I understand you got big money jobs and my little problem isn't that much. In the future im wanting to get this bike dyno tuned by you as well. Thank you in advance Kevin. 👍
Is it ok to add a small amount of Marvel Oil to fuel tank at times, to add lubrication to the top end of engine?
Always awesome advice
Kevin
What is the normal operating temperature on a screaming eagle stage 3 M-8 I do run a oil cooler fan..
I do live in Florida and I’ve noticed that my engine is running around 320 degrees which is shown on my power vision tuner..
I know there is other factors involved, I guess lm just looking for a base line..
Thanks a bunch !
I wish this video was out a week ago when I received my bike. Done 460 miles mostly riding the highway mixed with some city riding. Anything I can do at this point?
Last year I bought a new bike from Harley. I rode about 120 miles on highway straight home thinking I was doing a good thing. Nothing seems wrong. There’s probably nothing you can do now. Harley should tell you how to break it in b4 you leave
@@rtbt8185 thanks. Received the bike without the manual and no instructions whatsoever. I should have reached this. Either way hope it will be fine
i have called about getting my heads ported and nobody has returned my call i have called 4 times im a disabled vet 100% i hope you will returned my call and im a paid supporter of you
Hello sir. We do received hundreds of calls a day, however, if messages are left, calls are typically reurned in 24 hrs or so during normal business. It may be better to email me directly and i can get your questions answer3d. Thank you for your patience sir
Good info, thanks!
What I heard, ride it like you stole it!! Haha
I almost have 500 miles on my engine. very busy working on race car engines not much time to ride
Good stuff.
Sage advice!
In the manual it explains exactly how to break in your new Harley. Do what the Motor Company recommends.
This is a really bad idea. The manual is written by lawyers for a company far more interested in covering their liability over properly breaking in an engine.
Chazz, great advice if you want to experience decreased performance and increased blowby.
Thanks man
Right on time🏍😁👍✌️
Bro...I need your help. I'm 15 min away from you. 2003 ultra classic. I think the new heat temp is defective, have you seen this before or if it possible? I've checked the wiring and 🔌 and looks good.
Close your eyes and you’ll swear Dave Ramsey is talking… same voice and speech pattern.
I can’t unhear it
Poor thing. You've been busy working on your Air & Space Museum.
I guess I should of the full video before committing. Sorry for that
👍👍
Don't spend the whole budget on buying the bike. With pre owned there's almost always been a shortfall in the maintenance budget. Buy one you can afford to maintain.
🚶💭👍👍👍👍👍
Just got on
On the bike with the wife.
What Manufacturer runs a engine at around 1500-2000 RPM to break-in a cam ??? NONE... come on Kevin factory engines i bet never start-up a engine ever. look at a exhaust pipe if it is black sult on the pipes ??? never and super clean, they don't start up any car or truck or motorcycle and run it so why should we ???
Manufacturers actually do what’s called a “Cold Fire And Run”. As for this tutorial about Cams, he’s speaking in Solid Lifter Cams and yes, every engine builder when building a solid lifter cam does break it in in this way if they want it to Live.
Dorky ass glasses. 😀😀