I love your riffs and playing style. My advice to everyone here who mods: buy a MIJ or other quality used guitar to start. Aim for a budget of about $800-$1200 USD. This is about the lowest price you can outfit guitars with quality parts and every major wiring mod. The way I mod my guitars follows (mostly 90s-00s MIJ Jackson but also BC Rich and LTD). The controls are volume/volume/tone: *1) Purchase a Schaller Original (1302) bridge and replace the licensed Floyd Rose bridge.* The 1302 is wider but shorter front to back than an Original Floyd Rose so the 1302 fits in smaller, recessed bridge cavities. The 1302s are NOT the same as the Schaller Lockmeister tremolos, which are closer in measurement to the Original Floyd Rose. With a Schaller 1302, you can drop tune, intonate by pulling the saddles all the way back, and still do full pull ups on the whammy bar. The Schaller 1302s also have replaceable knife edges so you do not need to buy a new baseplate when the knife edges wear down. Most of the time, you will not need to replace anything other than the bridge. The studs and spring claw do not need to be replaced. The import parts will be smaller in diameter while the Schaller parts will be larger. The tone difference from larger parts is not enough to bother with redrilling holes in the guitar body. *What you may need to do is replace the import locking nut with a Floyd Rose R8 nut. It is a shallower nut (.225") than a regular R2 or R3 nut. Schaller does not make the R8 size, but Schaller bridges will work with Floyd Rose R8 nuts most of the time. You only need to replace the nut if your import nut clamps are worn down and do not stay in tune.* A string retainer helps the guitar stay in tune if the guitar has one. Screwing it closer to the headstock can prevent Floyd Rose bridges from coming out of tune. You may need to shim the outer strings of the 1302. The high and low E will be lower on the 1302 because it has a 10"-16" radius while Jacksons and similar guitars have a 12"-16" compound radius. A smaller sustain block is best--28 to 32mm. A larger block will be heavier, make the bar harder to move, and will stick out of the back of a thin bodied guitar. It may also interfere with how far you can move the bar and prevent you from putting the back cover back on the spring cavity. *2) If using passive humbuckers, use Seymour Duncan Triple Shot mounting rings.* This way you can have series/split on each coil/parallel wiring on both pickups. *3) Use a Shadow volume pot/killswitch on the bridge humbucker volume pot.* This will allow you to do killswitch effects with your volume knob. *4) Make the neck humbucker a push/pull phase switch.* This way you can have your pickups out of phase, which sounds good on clean tones, especially when pickups are in parallel. *5) Change to a .047 tone capacitor on the tone knob.* This gives you more low end than a .022 cap. I use the small, cheap, ceramic disk caps to save space in small guitar electronics cavities. *With all of these above features, you have a guitar with a killswitch, phase switch, series/split/parallel wiring on each pickup, and a tone knob. It will be very versatile.* *6) For master volume only guitars, I tend to use active pickups with a Shadow killpot. If I use EMG pickups, I use the 24 Volt Mod to improve the sound of older EMG designs (60/60A/81/85). Only use 18 volts if you are using EMG accessories like the EXG midrange control because they cannot handle 24 volts.* I also use Seymour Duncan Blackouts for lower tunings, but they can only be used in 9 volt. *7) If you like the EMG sound but want more wiring options, try passive EMG HZ pickups. They work with the Seymour Duncan Triple Shot. Active EMGs require special models like the TW line and accessories like the Pi2 to make split/parallel/out of phase sounds.* The EMG HZs will be quieter than active EMGs and have a slightly warmer tone, but they sound similar to the active models. The HZ line is very underrated. *8) Gotoh bridges are similar to Ibanez Original Edge bridges. I do not like most Ibanez guitars because they cannot always be refitted with Schaller or Original Floyd Rose bridges. Original Floyd Rose bridges are fine if you are replacing a Floyd Rose Special or want a bridge in a finish Schaller does not make like satin chrome.* If your OFR is too large, try a Schaller 1302. Replacing a Schaller 1302 sized bridge with an OFR will leave a side gap and the saddle screws may be too long to do pull ups if you have to move the saddles far back to intonate in low tunings. *9) Quality cheap guitars to look out for: high end Charvel Desolation guitars (2008-ish, now rare--came with Floyd Rose 1000 bridge--same as OFR but made in Korea--Seymour Duncan Blackouts, and neck thru mahogany neck and body) and Kramer Assault series (many come with EMGs, Original Floyd Rose bridges, and have set necks).* Hope this helps.
@@jeongsungwoo Charvels are getting to be more expensive than Jacksons these days. Here in the US BareKnuckles are also very expensive. I love how unique your guitar is though! :) You probably mentioned it in your video but how did you get your super cool custom headstock logo? Thanks for reading my post. Sorry for the length. Just hoping to help other guitarists. I know replacing licensed Floyd Rose bridges can be hit or miss without a lot of trial and error so I tried to answer every question I had before I learned what I know now. :) Much respect to you. :)
For anyone looking to swap a floyd to a gotoh floyd, you'll need to redrill the stud insert holes as the gotoh ones are larger and deeper. You can use the original studs and inserts but the gotoh locking ones are much better.
Looks fun. I used to be very into mod projects like this but these I do think you're better off just being patient and waiting for something higher end to come along that ticks all the boxes. Or going the whole hog and having something custom or semi custom made. Being happy with the end result is all that matters of course, but you probably get more bang for buck with a more expensive starting point and fewer after market parts.
I love your riffs and playing style.
My advice to everyone here who mods: buy a MIJ or other quality used guitar to start. Aim for a budget of about $800-$1200 USD. This is about the lowest price you can outfit guitars with quality parts and every major wiring mod.
The way I mod my guitars follows (mostly 90s-00s MIJ Jackson but also BC Rich and LTD). The controls are volume/volume/tone:
*1) Purchase a Schaller Original (1302) bridge and replace the licensed Floyd Rose bridge.* The 1302 is wider but shorter front to back than an Original Floyd Rose so the 1302 fits in smaller, recessed bridge cavities.
The 1302s are NOT the same as the Schaller Lockmeister tremolos, which are closer in measurement to the Original Floyd Rose.
With a Schaller 1302, you can drop tune, intonate by pulling the saddles all the way back, and still do full pull ups on the whammy bar. The Schaller 1302s also have replaceable knife edges so you do not need to buy a new baseplate when the knife edges wear down.
Most of the time, you will not need to replace anything other than the bridge. The studs and spring claw do not need to be replaced. The import parts will be smaller in diameter while the Schaller parts will be larger. The tone difference from larger parts is not enough to bother with redrilling holes in the guitar body.
*What you may need to do is replace the import locking nut with a Floyd Rose R8 nut. It is a shallower nut (.225") than a regular R2 or R3 nut. Schaller does not make the R8 size, but Schaller bridges will work with Floyd Rose R8 nuts most of the time. You only need to replace the nut if your import nut clamps are worn down and do not stay in tune.*
A string retainer helps the guitar stay in tune if the guitar has one. Screwing it closer to the headstock can prevent Floyd Rose bridges from coming out of tune.
You may need to shim the outer strings of the 1302. The high and low E will be lower on the 1302 because it has a 10"-16" radius while Jacksons and similar guitars have a 12"-16" compound radius.
A smaller sustain block is best--28 to 32mm. A larger block will be heavier, make the bar harder to move, and will stick out of the back of a thin bodied guitar. It may also interfere with how far you can move the bar and prevent you from putting the back cover back on the spring cavity.
*2) If using passive humbuckers, use Seymour Duncan Triple Shot mounting rings.* This way you can have series/split on each coil/parallel wiring on both pickups.
*3) Use a Shadow volume pot/killswitch on the bridge humbucker volume pot.* This will allow you to do killswitch effects with your volume knob.
*4) Make the neck humbucker a push/pull phase switch.* This way you can have your pickups out of phase, which sounds good on clean tones, especially when pickups are in parallel.
*5) Change to a .047 tone capacitor on the tone knob.* This gives you more low end than a .022 cap. I use the small, cheap, ceramic disk caps to save space in small guitar electronics cavities.
*With all of these above features, you have a guitar with a killswitch, phase switch, series/split/parallel wiring on each pickup, and a tone knob. It will be very versatile.*
*6) For master volume only guitars, I tend to use active pickups with a Shadow killpot. If I use EMG pickups, I use the 24 Volt Mod to improve the sound of older EMG designs (60/60A/81/85). Only use 18 volts if you are using EMG accessories like the EXG midrange control because they cannot handle 24 volts.* I also use Seymour Duncan Blackouts for lower tunings, but they can only be used in 9 volt.
*7) If you like the EMG sound but want more wiring options, try passive EMG HZ pickups. They work with the Seymour Duncan Triple Shot. Active EMGs require special models like the TW line and accessories like the Pi2 to make split/parallel/out of phase sounds.* The EMG HZs will be quieter than active EMGs and have a slightly warmer tone, but they sound similar to the active models. The HZ line is very underrated.
*8) Gotoh bridges are similar to Ibanez Original Edge bridges. I do not like most Ibanez guitars because they cannot always be refitted with Schaller or Original Floyd Rose bridges. Original Floyd Rose bridges are fine if you are replacing a Floyd Rose Special or want a bridge in a finish Schaller does not make like satin chrome.*
If your OFR is too large, try a Schaller 1302. Replacing a Schaller 1302 sized bridge with an OFR will leave a side gap and the saddle screws may be too long to do pull ups if you have to move the saddles far back to intonate in low tunings.
*9) Quality cheap guitars to look out for: high end Charvel Desolation guitars (2008-ish, now rare--came with Floyd Rose 1000 bridge--same as OFR but made in Korea--Seymour Duncan Blackouts, and neck thru mahogany neck and body) and Kramer Assault series (many come with EMGs, Original Floyd Rose bridges, and have set necks).*
Hope this helps.
Yeahp, I kinda wish I just waited to get the MJ Charvel but you live and you learn
@@jeongsungwoo Charvels are getting to be more expensive than Jacksons these days. Here in the US BareKnuckles are also very expensive.
I love how unique your guitar is though! :)
You probably mentioned it in your video but how did you get your super cool custom headstock logo?
Thanks for reading my post. Sorry for the length. Just hoping to help other guitarists. I know replacing licensed Floyd Rose bridges can be hit or miss without a lot of trial and error so I tried to answer every question I had before I learned what I know now. :)
Much respect to you. :)
For anyone looking to swap a floyd to a gotoh floyd, you'll need to redrill the stud insert holes as the gotoh ones are larger and deeper. You can use the original studs and inserts but the gotoh locking ones are much better.
Yeah, sadly I am using the original Studs and Inserts. I still want to use the Gotoh studs but the drilling is not a desirable job for me lol
Can't wait to see it in action live🤘
You will soon!
@@jeongsungwoo is that a hint you'll be up here soon??
@@jeongsungwoo if you need an opener let me know 🫶
Great playing!
Hey thank you brother
Damn sounds amazing, great job modding it out
gorgeous!!!
Sick guitar
after having 3 guitars with bkp's I dont think ill be willing to pay their prices to use them again.
I think they make the greatest pickups for Extreme Metal!
That tone ❤
Looks familiar! Hope you're happy with it 😊
Wormhole!! 👍🤘
Pretty decent band...
Great video! I really enjoyed your breakdown of what you did. How do you like the Gotoh bridge compared to the old one?
Thank You brother man!
Sadly, Stock Licensed Floyds are pieces of ____ :/
Question. Is there a benefit to a reverse headstock neck with a locking nut system? Honest question thanks!
Yes! It looks way more sick and rad bro !
And then I filmed a video in my room until my mom knocked on the door and said to keep it down.
Hey man!
Looks fun. I used to be very into mod projects like this but these I do think you're better off just being patient and waiting for something higher end to come along that ticks all the boxes. Or going the whole hog and having something custom or semi custom made.
Being happy with the end result is all that matters of course, but you probably get more bang for buck with a more expensive starting point and fewer after market parts.
Yeah I own 3 electric guitars, all VERY cheap. My 4th Electric Guitar will most likely be a very high end build for sure!