high speed infill tuning
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- Was having issues with infill making diagonal lines. Got it sorted it seems @ 600mms, 50K.
Video stated .45 extrusion multiplier, but meant .945 @ 70mms. print is ranging here from .945EM to 1.0 based on speed(40-600mms) @ 50K.
Machine specs: BTT Octopus Pro 1.1 w-H723 running 48V. 320x300x380 print volume using HIWIN MGN12H rails for cross and crappy, but good enough, rails for the frame top. Filament is fed from a heated dry box and part cooling is a WS7040 CPAP blower using a 19mm hose.
Chube, Goliath, or mosquito hotend- currently Chube
Chube w 120W heater and silicone ceramic sock. Titanium lower shield(original was stainless steel)
- Insulation Heat Shielded Fire Thermo Armor Fire Sleeve Silicone Coated Fiberglass Heat Protection for Automotive Hose Lines & Electrical Wiring-（Red .75" ID x5FT）- you can use 1" or .75 may fit.
0.4 Tungsten Carbide nozzle, Sunlu ABS @ 285C. Pressure advance 0.002, smooth time 0.01.
LDO 2504 motors @ 2.5A, Z drive is belted @ 4:1 ratio with a constant rate spring as a counterweight in the rear drive only. Zero bed drift at power off. 1PZ bed system(all Z constraints are in the rear drive, front only lifts the bed and is not constrained to the bed.
Custom, 1 off, belt tensioning system built into the gantry blocks using GT3 Gates belts at registration spec of 28.5lbs. All double shear bearings and motors.
Printer at 1:02 was like "Okay, now send it"
your first layer is faster then my hole print
Your own first layer is faster than your whole print 😉
that's certainly a way to say that
Crazy fast, amazing machine.
this printer looks industrial AF
I cant help but feel like your printer listens to Slayer while it prints! Seems like maybe expendible youth is playing on its main board!!
I like that Sock on the Chube.
I added some text in the description that you can search online :)
How are you liking the chube compared to the Goliath? From ambient to 270 how long does it take to heat up? Lastly do you have a link to that sock material I'd like to put the same on my magnum+. Looking great as always and the new chube looks shorter so will have better balance it seems.
There is something I really like about goliath.. the mount.. The mount of goliath is superior, IMO, because the assembly is more rigid having the flange of the hotend bolt directly. The lighter heat zone heats faster with same wattage so it's like a flywheel mass.. looses heat faster
with less mass.. but also heats faster.. so almost the same? Then the printer can throw the mass around because it's less. But longevity, Chube is more industrial.
I am having some issues with retraction or corners, not sure the cause, but it's not as clean as the prints coming off Goliath. Maybe I need to tune more or maybe there is some effect from the 4.5mm longer melt zone or.. not sure.. maybe even more extruder pressure needed. Something is different, just not sure yet what.
This is the type, I had some at the house, not sure the diameter.. measure yours and get a little smaller, expands well. www.amazon.com/Silicone-Fiberglass-Automotive-Electrical-Wiring-Red/dp/B09MZGN7NX/ref=asc_df_B09MZGN7NX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693372513071&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12524157033090248825&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027849&hvtargid=pla-1955203017584&mcid=75151690f48238878e3ed8d9e353feb4&gad_source=1&th=1
mmmm stepper music!! im diggin it buddy! kudos on the cooling solution ;) did a similar solution for an old project back in the days, pc fan or wifes hairdryer?
wait.. how do you do speed based flow? that would be awesome because when i do 200mm's on a .6 nozzle in a bambu throat it'll get some under extrusion even with hot temps and an orbiter extruder which in theory should be fine this is something i've wanted for a while
Depends on the slicer. SS has a place to set the curve, in the extruder section. Cura has it built in, Orca, who knows, probably not there as based on PS.
Kinda sad how Chube has this big titanium (or is is stainless steel ?) shield around its meltzone, suposed to fill the role of a sock, only for it to have holes in it
The upper shroud is supposed to be titanium and the lower stainless steel. I changed the lower to TI, didn't make much difference. The upper shroud is a structural piece, why they made holes was maybe to let it shed heat and not put it all to the heat synk. But.. this allows PC air to hit the copper. If printing sane speeds needs only sane cooling.. so the hotend will work that way with no sock.
Have you tried combined infill as well, or would that push the extrusion rate too high? Insane!
I had that setting on a year ago or so.. caused a lot of problems with cooling and flow. Took me a bit to figure out that was causing it. For that reason, I don't use it. There is plenty of speed here to not need it IMO.
@@MrRocksalt Definitely, hahaha. More just a curiosity. Awesome stuff!
Variable extrusion multipler. I like this. Can you give me more info?
Also why are you not on 2804s?
I like to run lower speeds with less VFA. Super Slicer can vary the extrusion based on speed in the extruder section.
do you recommend using a server fan as a print cooling fan?
I do not have that answer.. I hear that enclosed chamber of 85C+ is hard to cool with CPAP WS7040, but I have no experience at that chamber temp. The twin server fans toss ~60CFM combined. Hard to argue that it's not better. But you also have the weight and a gyro effect. The CPAP hose is not rated for high chamber temps. Maybe, maybe not.. But if you really wanted more CFM can use a bigger CPAP blower and a hose rated for those temps.
@@MrRocksalt actually i don't have a enclouser but i am printing with pla and pla is very Hard to cool and second hand Server fans are very cheap
@@kagancengiz For me, PLA not a problem with WS7040 and a good duct. I have some videos on this channel with some pla. I have to move pretty quick to under cool it with typical .2 layer height.
What motor and board do you use ?
Beautiful machine
These are LD0 2504's with TMC5160's @ 48V, running on Octopus pro 1.1 w/H723
@@MrRocksalt no problem with vfa? I'm stuck between 2004 and 2504, actually i prefer 2004 cause i dont want to go crazy fast but...
So you are running stepstick and not external 5160 right?
@@occasionalriders1885 TMC5160 step sticks, internal. 2504's will VFA at 100mms.. well... I tested them for vibration and they have several speeds they resonate at. above 200 they are fine. 100-200 have a few areas they resonate.
What motors you use again?
LDO 2504's. They resonate badly at 100mms. Go higher or go less, lol
printer go BRRRRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRRRR BRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Brrrrrr
holy...
i like your video's but please.... get a place where you can put your Phone/Camera the shaking sux
Blink really fast!
@@MrRocksalt *blinks in closing the video*