I have an 01 Duramax and I have been told replacing the hydroboost was an absolute nightmare. You proved it wrong. I feel I can do this myself. Thank you for this video!
Thank you for actually showing where they drop on the ground. My truck started leaking and I figured hydro boost but there are so many lines there as well I wasn’t 100% sure. Now I am.
Great video the detail on the difficult items is very helpful. Years ago my boost failed on my 04 and I picked up a quality one from a auto parts store. The instructions stated that the warranty would be voided unless a cooler was installed per the instructions with the booster. They explained that since the power steering fluid was working for both the steering and breaking it was creating too much heat and it was the heat that caused the failure of the seals. After adding the cooler on the return side of the pump the booster stayed much cooler. In regards to the amount of assist for steering and breaking there is a valve of sort on the outlet side of the pump that restricts the amount of pressure/volume of fluid by changing this valve it is possible to gain more breaking and steering assist.
Thanks for the vid. Will be doing this upgrade with the LML hydroboost to replace the leaking stock one on my 300k mile 03 1500HD. Fixed a trans leak, rebuilt 80, all oil leaks fixed on the 6.0, recently a power steering leak (hoses) and now on to the next one haha! I've done some forum and facebook reading and read about the diameter of the pin may need to be drilled out some, others say they didn't. Also some reviews with the same issue (usually no cruise or no brake lights) is caused by this if you don't drill it out, but there's a specific brake switch you can buy instead of drilling incase if anyone would prefer that (D891A)
nice work getting your leaks fixed, it can be a pain sometimes hunting them all down. Also thanks for the switch info. How do you like the 6.0 gas and 80e? I've really been thinking of swapping that setup into my 82' silverado.
@@HighPriority Absolutely no doubt it’s a pain to haunt down sometimes! For sure. & I love it, it does well for a 3/4 ton truck lol. And it’s the LQ4 so the compression is lower than the LQ9 but still plenty of power. 320k miles you literally can’t even tell. I’d say go for it. LQ4 or LQ9. Can’t go wrong. Just match it with some decent heads. Super reliable combo
@@HighPriority bro for sure lmao!! But if you got the extra cash, screw the 6.0 and just get a LS3 block and build it. You’ll probably get better mpg for the power anyway over the 6.0. Or you can build the 6.0 if you’re just trying to build something decent quick for reliability
Thank you, 4” with a tiny bullet muffler. Yes it’s worth the upgrade for the price alone. I think the braking is improved but I haven’t “put it through the paces” so to speak.
Love these how to videos you have, you make these really easy to follow and pay more attention to the smaller details. Keep up these videos for sure man they’re great!
Exactly how did you bleed the air out of the power steering system. I've heard very conflicting procedures. One says to cycle the wheel stop to stop and pump the brakes 3 time with the engine off. Repeat 90 times! The other method is start the car and turn stop to stop a few times, pump the brakes and repeat a few times. Check for bubbles in the fluid reserve tank.
I suggest a set of calipers that measures thousandths. The rod end will need to be opened and it shut me down hard on an 07 LBZ. No brake lights, no starting because the switch didn't know I was in park. It was just about .040" that needed to come out.
Agreed. I did the same on my 07 lbz and it was hard to shift out of park, brake lights didn't work, cruise didn't work, brake controller didn't work. Drilled it out with a step bit to 3/4" and no problems since then. A lot of places say 41/64" but I didn't have that and wasn't about to buy one lol
I bought this for my 05, but I also bought the PSC steering box. I'll see how much better my braking is and how it steers, but maybe down the road, I'll install the PSC pump too.
Nice! Let me know how that steering box is, after I got my truck aligned they said the box had some slop so I may be upgrading. I just did brake pads a week ago along with new brake fluid and my braking has improved a bunch!
@High Priority I was told the same thing after mine was aligned 2 years ago. I'm in the process of changing the steering box to the PSC, which I believe to be the upgraded Ram truck unit. Rare Parts 4 spline pitman arm, Rare Parts idler arm and mount, PPE center link (oem style 1.5") and Rare Parts outer tie rod ends.
Just swapped out one of these on the old motorhome - check into the 178-1040 - it should be identical to the 1036 and cheaper. Also for you guys that tow- a small trans cooler plumbed into the PS return line and use a TES-295 ATF fluid like Mobil one Delvac or Castrol Transynd will extend the life of your components and save your shit from boiling over in hot ambient temps while trying to back in your trailer/load. Slow speed turning and maneuvering is murder on the system
I have a 2006 GMC Duramax 2500 and replaced 2006 original with 2011 and it started with having to push the brake harder and now I can’t get it out of park going to try drilling out will let you know 🤞
Ok just put on a new brake switch (that’s the one closest to where the hydro boost connects to the brake pedal and it’s working now. I will post pictures and switch number today got at o’Reilly’s auto parts no drilling and no removal of hydro boost every done inside on brake pedal haven’t had time to see if it will last stay tuned.
@@meademods6024 just checked my link and my purchase history, it’s the same one I bought. Maybe that 2018 is when they started offering them? I know mine doesn’t have the weep hole in the original location but I didn’t realize it was moved forward.
@@HighPriority just received the new hydro Bost and installed it. the weep hole is in the middle of the unit. took me 1 hr. as before and the stupid clip on the break peddle gave me an awful fit this time and I lost my cookies!!!! what a pos design!! still need to go for a test drive but iv had a few drinks to calm down!!! heheh
@@SteveoAtilla another viewer pointed out the weep hole is there, just not right at the mating surface and set back more on the booster. Just checked mine and it’s true.
Amazon says this booster doesn’t fit my truck yet it does. They say the 178-1029 booster is for my truck. So if amazon says the 178-1029 will also fit your truck then I would say the booster I have linked in the description should fit.
Nice how to video 👍👍. About how long did this take you to do? I just checked your link for that booster, it's now $350. We all know who's to blame for these higher prices.
There’s a great article here: garrettforensics.com/cases-of-the-month/what-auto-fluids-burn/ They did simulation tests and had it ignite when sprayed onto a 1,000° piece of exhaust so I’d say under the right conditions the fluid can ignite.
I have an 01 Duramax and I have been told replacing the hydroboost was an absolute nightmare. You proved it wrong. I feel I can do this myself. Thank you for this video!
@@flyinbrianz22 you got this! Definitely one of the easier things to tackle on these trucks.
Thank you for actually showing where they drop on the ground. My truck started leaking and I figured hydro boost but there are so many lines there as well I wasn’t 100% sure. Now I am.
Yea a lot of stuff right there that leaks or sweats. Glad I could help!
Great video the detail on the difficult items is very helpful. Years ago my boost failed on my 04 and I picked up a quality one from a auto parts store. The instructions stated that the warranty would be voided unless a cooler was installed per the instructions with the booster. They explained that since the power steering fluid was working for both the steering and breaking it was creating too much heat and it was the heat that caused the failure of the seals. After adding the cooler on the return side of the pump the booster stayed much cooler. In regards to the amount of assist for steering and breaking there is a valve of sort on the outlet side of the pump that restricts the amount of pressure/volume of fluid by changing this valve it is possible to gain more breaking and steering assist.
Nice thanks for the tips, I’ll definitely look into a cooler for this one as well. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Just found this in my time of need! The old LB7 just started leaking and it needs it! Thanks for the info!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the vid. Will be doing this upgrade with the LML hydroboost to replace the leaking stock one on my 300k mile 03 1500HD. Fixed a trans leak, rebuilt 80, all oil leaks fixed on the 6.0, recently a power steering leak (hoses) and now on to the next one haha! I've done some forum and facebook reading and read about the diameter of the pin may need to be drilled out some, others say they didn't. Also some reviews with the same issue (usually no cruise or no brake lights) is caused by this if you don't drill it out, but there's a specific brake switch you can buy instead of drilling incase if anyone would prefer that (D891A)
nice work getting your leaks fixed, it can be a pain sometimes hunting them all down. Also thanks for the switch info. How do you like the 6.0 gas and 80e? I've really been thinking of swapping that setup into my 82' silverado.
@@HighPriority Absolutely no doubt it’s a pain to haunt down sometimes! For sure. & I love it, it does well for a 3/4 ton truck lol. And it’s the LQ4 so the compression is lower than the LQ9 but still plenty of power. 320k miles you literally can’t even tell. I’d say go for it. LQ4 or LQ9. Can’t go wrong. Just match it with some decent heads. Super reliable combo
@@AQWbladefire I appreciate the feedback thank you. I’m tired of dealing with the carbed small block haha.
@@HighPriority bro for sure lmao!! But if you got the extra cash, screw the 6.0 and just get a LS3 block and build it. You’ll probably get better mpg for the power anyway over the 6.0. Or you can build the 6.0 if you’re just trying to build something decent quick for reliability
@@HighPriority that was my plan for my current truck, but I have been really eyeballing a diesel. An lbz
I’ll have to do this to my 02 when I do the heads and injectors this winter. Love the sound of the LB7 pulling into the garage.
Thank you, 4” with a tiny bullet muffler. Yes it’s worth the upgrade for the price alone. I think the braking is improved but I haven’t “put it through the paces” so to speak.
Love these how to videos you have, you make these really easy to follow and pay more attention to the smaller details. Keep up these videos for sure man they’re great!
Wow thank you! I appreciate it! Anything you want to know or see just let me know.
great video. To the point, and great camera angles
Thank you!
i got 2 remans from auto zone this week and both are leaking!!! so, I will get what you got. nice video,
don't feel bad - you are one of the many who had to learn the hard way that you never buy remans or try to reseal yourself. Rock Auto is your friend
Exactly how did you bleed the air out of the power steering system. I've heard very conflicting procedures. One says to cycle the wheel stop to stop and pump the brakes 3 time with the engine off. Repeat 90 times! The other method is start the car and turn stop to stop a few times, pump the brakes and repeat a few times. Check for bubbles in the fluid reserve tank.
Great video! Post more and consistently and you will grow for sure! You are entertaining and educational so you will go far. Keep it up brother!❤
Thank you! I really appreciate the comment thank you for watching and supporting.
I suggest a set of calipers that measures thousandths. The rod end will need to be opened and it shut me down hard on an 07 LBZ. No brake lights, no starting because the switch didn't know I was in park. It was just about .040" that needed to come out.
Agreed. I did the same on my 07 lbz and it was hard to shift out of park, brake lights didn't work, cruise didn't work, brake controller didn't work. Drilled it out with a step bit to 3/4" and no problems since then. A lot of places say 41/64" but I didn't have that and wasn't about to buy one lol
Great info to know for the Lbz trucks. Thanks!
Nice work! I'm definitely doing this in my 2001 LB7 "Pig the Alaskan Overland Rig" Thank you.
I bought this for my 05, but I also bought the PSC steering box. I'll see how much better my braking is and how it steers, but maybe down the road, I'll install the PSC pump too.
Nice! Let me know how that steering box is, after I got my truck aligned they said the box had some slop so I may be upgrading. I just did brake pads a week ago along with new brake fluid and my braking has improved a bunch!
@High Priority I was told the same thing after mine was aligned 2 years ago. I'm in the process of changing the steering box to the PSC, which I believe to be the upgraded Ram truck unit. Rare Parts 4 spline pitman arm, Rare Parts idler arm and mount, PPE center link (oem style 1.5") and Rare Parts outer tie rod ends.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll keep the part numbers filed away in case I ever have a leak.
Thank you I really appreciate that.
Just swapped out one of these on the old motorhome - check into the 178-1040 - it should be identical to the 1036 and cheaper.
Also for you guys that tow- a small trans cooler plumbed into the PS return line and use a TES-295 ATF fluid like Mobil one Delvac or Castrol Transynd will extend the life of your components and save your shit from boiling over in hot ambient temps while trying to back in your trailer/load. Slow speed turning and maneuvering is murder on the system
@@tyronetrump1612 great to know! Thanks for posting he rock auto price as well.
Very good video
@@jarviscorley8860 thanks!
how do i bleed the power steering system? and when do i know its bled?
Good job!!
Very helpful thank you
Glad I could help.
I have a 2006 GMC Duramax 2500 and replaced 2006 original with 2011 and it started with having to push the brake harder and now I can’t get it out of park going to try drilling out will let you know 🤞
Yea sounds like it’s binding and not allowing the shifter to move? Yes please let me know what the fix is I am very curious.
Ok just put on a new brake switch (that’s the
one closest to where the hydro boost connects to the brake pedal and it’s working now. I will post pictures and switch number today got at o’Reilly’s auto parts no drilling and no removal of hydro boost every done inside on brake pedal haven’t had time to see if it will last stay tuned.
@@mathewfranco3211 good to hear it was simple.
Failed back to drawing board 🤔
@@mathewfranco3211 no change? What’s it doing now?
Missed you! Thanks for the information. I'll be sure to check out mine. P. S. Sounds great!
Thanks Mary. Yea took a little 7 month hiatus 🤦🏼♂️. I have a few projects coming up so hopefully more content will be on the way!
@@HighPriority very excited for more content! You're a great teacher!!
difference could be because you don't have a leak and losing braking pressure. nothing to do with unit or fluid if it is that subtle.
is it the same part number if i want to do it on a 2006 Tahoe 5.3 ?
Would this swap work for a 2001 silverado 2500hd ?
@@franciscorazo3458 yes it should fit no problem. I just looked through the figment and you should be good.
Did you ever have any problems putting this newer one on any leaks? I put one on and it failed immediately
Did you buy the genuine gm on I have linked? Mines doing great and hasn’t leaked a drop.
going to the amazon link the description says it a 2018? weep hole was moved to the middle verse at the end .
@@meademods6024 I’ll check the link and make sure.
@@meademods6024 just checked my link and my purchase history, it’s the same one I bought. Maybe that 2018 is when they started offering them? I know mine doesn’t have the weep hole in the original location but I didn’t realize it was moved forward.
@@HighPriority just received the new hydro Bost and installed it. the weep hole is in the middle of the unit. took me 1 hr. as before and the stupid clip on the break peddle gave me an awful fit this time and I lost my cookies!!!! what a pos design!! still need to go for a test drive but iv had a few drinks to calm down!!! heheh
@@HighPriority it bolted right up
@@HighPriority hopefully the newer style unit has better breaking and steering
I noticed that the 2011 unit doesn't have a weep hole at the bottom. Any concerns for you there?
@@SteveoAtilla another viewer pointed out the weep hole is there, just not right at the mating surface and set back more on the booster. Just checked mine and it’s true.
Do you know if this works the same on 6.0 gas trucks?
Amazon says this booster doesn’t fit my truck yet it does. They say the 178-1029 booster is for my truck. So if amazon says the 178-1029 will also fit your truck then I would say the booster I have linked in the description should fit.
Can you put this 2011 hydroboost on a gas truck?
Say, an 03 tahoe?
@@TheRoyJames I would think so but let me do some digging and I’ll see what it says
👍👍👍👍👍💯 thanks
Thank you John!
Will it fit an 06 lbz 3500? 4x4?
Yes I’m pretty positive it will.
Nice how to video 👍👍. About how long did this take you to do? I just checked your link for that booster, it's now $350. We all know who's to blame for these higher prices.
I’d say it could be done in a couple hours if your taking your time. That sucks it’s gone up that much!
$297 - Rock Auto
Just got one on Amazon for $368 with shipping
Sorry to burst your friends bubble, but power steering fluid is not flammable
There’s a great article here: garrettforensics.com/cases-of-the-month/what-auto-fluids-burn/
They did simulation tests and had it ignite when sprayed onto a 1,000° piece of exhaust so I’d say under the right conditions the fluid can ignite.
@HighPriority good information I didn't know
Nice job skipping those other 3 nuts comin off
Your welcome! Trying to save 45 seconds of your life. 😆