Hello, i am just wondering how you modelled the gyroid cell on SolidWorks? If you have any sources you used that could help me in my dissertation it would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there, I basically worked from the unit cell using this helpful website for my visualization: Solidworks doesn't do great at parametric surface modelling, and it wouldve been much easier if I could have just put the equation in for the gyroid surface, but I ran into a lot of issues trying to go that route. Instead, starting from the unit cell, and even lower than that the "unit surface" I drew the curves on several planes and swept the surface between those curves. The key planes were the outer constraining planes of the unit cell, as well as the planes of symmetry. Taking that one little wavey surface I manually rotated and oriented it spatially, then joined the surfaces, rinse wash repeat from unit surface to unit cell to full structure! Sorry about the brevity of the video, it was limited to 60s for a portfolio submission! Lmk if you have more q's.
I've been printing gyroid infill with ninjaflex without perimiters but I get tons of stringing. Care you share your success? I'm printing on a prusa i3 with slic3r
Hey Evan, hope this helps. One of the things that is really hard about ninjaflex is that it tends to string a lot unless you get really nice calibration and settings figured out, so that problem may be independent from the fact that you're doing a gyroid infill. However, I encountered a lot of stringing and inaccuracy the smaller I tried to go with the gyroid, so don't be afraid to get a little bigger and thicker, it could make the print a lot cleaner (especially with more DIY style printers). Personally, I had to clean out lots of my prints, which was really a hassle when it came to the ninjaflex, because you can simply scrape it off like ABS or PLA. Since it's an infill, this second bit of advice might not apply as much, but I cleaned up my prints with x-acto blades, to get as much of the strings off as possible, and a heat gun, which makes the remaining strings curl up and melt onto the print making them a lot less noticeable. Let me know if you need more help! -Matt
(side note, just watched a video on gyroid infill that looked really nice until I noticed they cheated by removing the parts where the slope flattens out at the top/bottom of each archway, making the printer a lot happier. kinda ruins the point though, imo)
Oh also the filament retraction speed was greatly increased especially for the smaller prints. I feel like thats the main answer you were looking for, sorry lol. I too had a ton of stringing but once i got to the point that it didn't effect the structural integrity I just accepted it and cleaned it off with exacto blades, pipe cleaners, sandpaper and dowels, you name it.
Hello, i am just wondering how you modelled the gyroid cell on SolidWorks? If you have any sources you used that could help me in my dissertation it would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there, I basically worked from the unit cell using this helpful website for my visualization: Solidworks doesn't do great at parametric surface modelling, and it wouldve been much easier if I could have just put the equation in for the gyroid surface, but I ran into a lot of issues trying to go that route. Instead, starting from the unit cell, and even lower than that the "unit surface" I drew the curves on several planes and swept the surface between those curves. The key planes were the outer constraining planes of the unit cell, as well as the planes of symmetry. Taking that one little wavey surface I manually rotated and oriented it spatially, then joined the surfaces, rinse wash repeat from unit surface to unit cell to full structure! Sorry about the brevity of the video, it was limited to 60s for a portfolio submission! Lmk if you have more q's.
minimalsurfaces.blog/home/repository/triply-periodic/gyroid/
facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/gyroid/gyroid.html
I've been printing gyroid infill with ninjaflex without perimiters but I get tons of stringing. Care you share your success? I'm printing on a prusa i3 with slic3r
Hey Evan, hope this helps. One of the things that is really hard about ninjaflex is that it tends to string a lot unless you get really nice calibration and settings figured out, so that problem may be independent from the fact that you're doing a gyroid infill. However, I encountered a lot of stringing and inaccuracy the smaller I tried to go with the gyroid, so don't be afraid to get a little bigger and thicker, it could make the print a lot cleaner (especially with more DIY style printers). Personally, I had to clean out lots of my prints, which was really a hassle when it came to the ninjaflex, because you can simply scrape it off like ABS or PLA. Since it's an infill, this second bit of advice might not apply as much, but I cleaned up my prints with x-acto blades, to get as much of the strings off as possible, and a heat gun, which makes the remaining strings curl up and melt onto the print making them a lot less noticeable.
Let me know if you need more help!
-Matt
(side note, just watched a video on gyroid infill that looked really nice until I noticed they cheated by removing the parts where the slope flattens out at the top/bottom of each archway, making the printer a lot happier. kinda ruins the point though, imo)
Oh also the filament retraction speed was greatly increased especially for the smaller prints. I feel like thats the main answer you were looking for, sorry lol. I too had a ton of stringing but once i got to the point that it didn't effect the structural integrity I just accepted it and cleaned it off with exacto blades, pipe cleaners, sandpaper and dowels, you name it.