I'm siding with Joe, saying you already have paint would include the brush on primer in my drawer. Even air brush primers can be painted on. I stand with Joe ✊
@@CTimmerman From a formulation POV, a primer and a paint are two different things. A primer will typically have pigment that is not as finely ground, so doesn't leave as smooth a finish as a paint. They're also intended to prepare a surface for paint, the primary function of which is to 'bite' into the surface they're applied to. This means they adhere to a given surface much better than a paint does. In turn, they then give a surface that paint will adhere to much better. Certain primers, such as Mr Hobby Surfacer, also contain elements that prompt autoleveling, so they'll fill in light scratches and other such blemishes to give a smooth surface for paint.
@@RequiemWraith That would explain the course sandy texture of my old Corax White spray, but Vallejo Dark Green for one is smooth and shiny. So if primer can be course or smooth, that still doesn't differ from thick or thin base/layer Citadel paint.
@@Jfk2Mr Good thing imma use a wet brush/palette and some White Scar straight onto a resin proxy then. I skipped the palette for Abbadon Black and that worked great on a resin tire.
Yeah. The Extra Thin is so much harder to use if you apply, then put together, I don't think I've ever used it that way. That's why I ask, in case I'm missing something.
This is how I use it. If its a really big surface I might blob I tiny bit in the middle too. Just hold the parts together for 30 seconds until its sticky enough to stay held together or employ a clothes peg. Sometimes if the jointing pieces are don't quite sit right all the way round the joint because its warped a bit, you can squeeze it together and let it go a couple of times to mush the now liquid plastic splurge out the high spot, then trim/sand back after its dried (make sure its fully dried or it makes a mess). Oh and primer is definitely paint!
I've been using liquid plastic glues for over 30 years (Liquid Poly originally but Extra Thin in the last few years). I have always brushed generously onto one side, give it a second or two to start melting, then press the second part firmly into place and hold for a few seconds. The soft joint gives me lots of opportunity to adjust or fix placement and the final result is as solid as you will ever need. If the part has low contact surfaces I will coat both surfaces and hold in place longer. For bigger or ill-fitting parts, I'll use sprue goo, made from the same glue to a slow-drip consistency. Slosh it on liberally and wipe away the excess. DGAF how it's "supposed" to be used, this always works for me. Experiment and see what works for you.
Honestly I think you should have included paints in the £100 as if you need all of these things to set up to paint minis why do you already have all the paints? Still a great episode non the less.
I got one of the cheap hobby starter kits off Amazon a year ago - £16 then, £18 now. Cutting mat, clippers, files, sanding blocks, pin vice, box cutter, 3 sets of tweezers, steel rule and sharpening stones. Still going strong a year on, and apart from the pin vice (upgraded to a mini battery drill) and the sanding blocks (worn out) I'm still using it all pretty much daily. Really really good starting point imo.
Add another “Primer is paint.” for me. Even if you want to argue it, I’d expect spray primer and varnish to be included since that’s not even a fraction of what I’d expect to spend on paints. Also, if we were including paints, several sets to 30-50 American $ includes primer or varnish. I’d grab some tuberware around the 10$ range, 10$ on getting kitchen roll and parchment paper. 30$ on a set of 3 sable brushes from amazon. Alotting 10$ for plastic shot glasses and sticky tak. 10$ for clippers, 10$ for a hobby knife and blades. 20$ for some tamiya extra thin and some super glue and activator.
Primer is paint the same way a base is a model. Its not the first thing you think of but if someone showed you their model you expect a base to be a package deal.
Also, yes, primer is absolutely a type of paint. It is formulated for a specific purpose, preparing the surface to be painted and improving adhesion, but is a paint nonetheless. As such, including it in an existing paint collection is entirely valid.
I’m with Joe. I would not include primer if I was told paints not included. Don’t let those pro painters push you around. If you go to the hardware store and they will send you to the paint department if you need primer.
DSPIAE is a modelling company that focuses more on the gundam side of things but they sell packs of really nice sanding foam for ~$8 USD that are 7 pieces of 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400 each.
£100 How I'd spend it... Prep £1 cheap Craft knife £3 cheap cutting mat (Not essential you might have other surfaces you can use) £3 a few sheets of fine sand paper (about 800) Undercoat £5 A cheap rattle can of Matte Black paint from a hardware store Paint £35 - Vallejo Game Colour Paint Set (Included because its absolutely possible) Brushes £3 A pack of hobby synthetic brushes from the pound shop £8 Size 2 kolinsky sable brush from details £2 A size suitable dry brush (ie a makeup brush from the pound shop) Palette food packaging can be used as a dry pallette (free - YOU DO NOT NEED A WET PALETTE) but if you prefer it: £3 for a cheap tupperware tub £2 Sponge cloth for wet pallette £3 Greaseproof (baking) paper Glue £6 Polycement £5 superglue (doesn't matter what kind) £2 PVA (craft) glue (for basing) £4 Kitchen Roll (Blitz or similar) £85 total plus £15 for some second hand models off facebook market place/Ebay. Only thing missing is a lamp. and maybe a bottle of nuln oil, although you can make your own wash with black/brown paint watered right down and adding in a tiny drop of dish soap.
When I started the hobby at 12 yrs old, my high value tools were like 3€ Revell brushes or something. A lot was from the hardware store. But that was a long-ass time ago when global markets haven't yet been as open and accessible.
I’ve only gotten around to listening to this episode - thanks for answering my question on the dioramas. Immediately I’m rethinking of my plan which involved a lot more than two models… maybe I’ll save that idea for diorama number two!
Also siding with Joe. Primer is in the paint section of the hobby store. And 100% on the magnifying glasses. Many of us don’t have 20/20 vision and it’s essential to be able to “ENHANCE” (that’s what I whisper to myself every time I put them on).
Primer isn't paint but if someone said paint is not needed, I would assume primer and varnish are included. These guys should try Gundam if they want good quality plastic. To be fair I've only done GW models from like ten years ago and they don't feel quality. Also for the price of the drill you could get a single action nail airbrush. Great intro item.
You can very easilly get all the paints and tools you need, as well as a few minis, for way under 100 quid. Everything over is just convenience and quality of life.
I'm happy with my 55 euro Introductory Set of 40k, which lacks some paints seen on the cover art, but refers you to their other products. The free Infernus marine the store handed out can even join the 5 man squad in my fragile 3rd party Impulsor, at the cost of 5 more due to the annoying unit system. The set comes with a paper playmat, cardboard walls, and basic rules to play though, so i don't have to wait for my order to be complete or i've memorized what stratagem colors do as well as all the rules for every faction i'd face.
@CTimmerman excellent. I introduced a friend to the hobby a while back, got him two packs of those 3 man easy to build kits from Indomitus era, reivers and intercessors, glue, primer, nippers, couple brushes and couple paints and a knife for about 75 euro total. At the time, 3 reivers and 3 intercessors also happened to be a decent starter space marine kill team. As a challange to myself I set my budget at under 80, wich was the price of the latest AAA video game
Some good picks from everyone here (and some absolutely insane ones, naturally) but boys - what are you going to dry brush with? Not even a mention of cheapy make up brushes, let alone actual purpose-made ones! Also agree with Joe (or at least on his side) about the primer. It's pigmented, it's paint. Also £20 on a pair of LED magnifying spectacles is an actually massive quality of life purchase and I'd put it in my own list of essentials on a budget. As a long-sighted hobbyist they absolutely changed the game for me. Otherwise, yeah. Tamiya Extra Thin, accept no substitutes. When you get halfway through it, turn it into sprue glue and get another bottle of Extra Thin, now you have gluing options and gap filling. Tamiya 1000 grit sanding sponge. Swan Morton #3 handle, 10A blades. Engineer NP-05 micro nippers. 50p ceramic tile - if it's good enough for the 'eavy Metal team etc. ~£5 cutting mat from Amazon. Miliput for basing and gap filling and sculpting, much cheaper than green stuff and more versatile. Toothbrush for getting the plastic dust off your minis after you've been at them with the sanding sponge. Gorilla Super Glue Gel for sticking anything non-plastic. Big pack of shitty synthetic brushes from a hardware store to avoid messing up the nice sable brushes you probably still have a bit of budget for. And always remember, the Middle of Lidl is your friend!
I'm with Joe on the magnification too. As George always tells us, with regard to the Onyx lamp- "It's no good if you can't see what you're doing in the first place!" Exxept I wouldn't spend £20... I use £1.50 reading glasses at +3.50 mag. With the money saved, I'd get Rose and Co series 33 brushes in a couple of sizes and some very cheap synthetics for metallics and drybrushing.
gloss ceramic tile - £1.50, paint set - £15-25, brushes £1-5, can of primer £8, kitchen roll £2, model kit say £35, clippers £3, glue £1.50 total = £76 so yeah its easy to paint warhammer for under £100 heck if i follow your rules im spending under £30 lol paint sets can be poster paints, or miniture specific (vallejo do some great sets)
I legit think Joe did best for a beginner friendly starter set; mainly targeting cheap-but-sturdy lower end of intermediate kit (i.e. good enough it won't hold you back, but not so pricey you can't ruin it/experiment), practical size of brush, and avoiding wet palette - yes I agree wet palette is the better option overall, but day 1 painting, keep it simple with a tile (as a new painter you might get anxious using up all those sheets and is the palette wet enough etc.etc..). I think paint sets themselves should totally have been included; would be really interesting to know what you'd choose, and it'd maybe cause the more ridiculous purchases (like a super duper palette or drill!) to be dropped.
Also, shout out for Tamiya or Humbrol grey primer, only c. £8 (delivered) on ebay at time of writing, and great multi purpose stuff whether working dark to light or light to dark
Look at the bloody smile on James' face as he marches around with his finds XD How can you be upset with the man just finding happiness in what others (90% of the planet) would consider waste!
Id be more on the side of priming as the final stage of preparation - even accounting for zenithal. Test for me is, id assemble and prime, then put away to paint later if I'm working through assembly projects to let the prime cure, so see it as part of prep and assembly.
I would swap out the Haribos for some coffee or a warm beverage of your choice (plus it's a bonus high-stakes water pot) Great episode, loved the banter
I couldn't see the paint exactly, but I found a bottle of unopened Deadly Nightshade from decades back. Am using it to paint some Slann regiments from the early 80s. Result.
£100 seems like a lot of budget if you don't include paint like, even including a colour forge spray primer. Good picks on Tamiya Extra Thin and Rosemary and Co. Brushes though - I switched to series 33 after synthetic brushes kept being rubbish and honestly that size 0 is a workhorse. Hawk brushes are an even cheaper Kolinsky option but the Rosemary and Co. I found to be better.
Finding good reliable workhorse brushes can change a lot depending on your location. For example Tintoretto series 334 size 1 and 3 are two heavy hitters for about 4 euros each if you live in Italy, but probably hard to find elswwhere. In general, go to a shop that specializes in art supplies, and ask to see the kolinski ones for fine details in the 5-10 euro range each. A local brand will likely have something good for you to go. And yes, primer is a paint. 😂
This is an excellent exercise.. I'd blend your lists.. Toss the drill and expensive palette.. Use the homemade palette, multiple brushes a cheap pin vise and be happy all around
Cracking show gents. Absolutely choc full of tips and advice. I definitely will be adding some sanding sponges and George's blades to my shopping list. Sticking up for Joe here. Primer is paint imho but also, from doing a number of painting sessions and lessons, you can happily brush on base acrylic paints as a primer if that's your best option at the time. Surprised no one went for a varnish to protect your paint work! Also great tip on unwelding glued parts with plastic glue. I use the Revell and GW glues myself with the needles and often they clog. If you reverse the needle in the bottle and give it a moment the glue will dissolve the clog and away you go 👍 As always a ton of laughs in the episode. Got a few to catch up on after a minor hobby sabbatical but thanks again for always being here for us. Question, have any of you done long sessions of airbrushing? If so, any tips on getting around trigger finger fatigue?
Will say I do think the warhammer starter paint set is actually very good value, get a quality set of clippers, mould line remover (albeit a bit fiddly) and 9? paints of good variety, for the extra tenner on top of the clippers don’t think you can go wrong
Swaps the magnifier for ready readers out of a pound store, spray primer is not a essential when starting out yes it does deliver better results but when I started I primed by brush.
You know I've found (if you're trying to save money) that the plastic packaging container the Army Painter palette sponge/paper refills comes in is the perfect size to make your own wet palette 😆
I hate, absolutely hate, those tiny 00 brushes. You can load the tip for tiny details and then, right when you start to paint, its completely dry. So you might get about 1/2" (13mm ish) then you're done. Rinse and reload. That sucks. Ive learned to use a size 1 or 2 with a laser sharp point.
I’ve still got a scar just above my thumb from using kitchen scissors to clip my mordor orcs in approx 2003. Got the wrong angle, blades separated and closed weirdly and gashed my hand
Put me on team 'paint means primer'. I'm kind of surprised that, in a list presumably for beginners to the hobby, I didn't see much consideration for a good brush for drybrushing. Particularly for new painters, I just don't see them getting a lot of mileage out of one brush.
The only thing I haven't scrimped on its paints. I've spent alot on the army painter fanatic range and the Vallejo metalics. But I've been cheap with alot of the other stuff.
Here in the United States there aren't really many sources for Rosemary & Co brushes. I had to buy them from some small mom and pop store via telephone. But having both those and Artis Opus I can say that I get great results from either, but that painting with the Rosemary & Co brush feels like painting with a disposable chopstick. The handle feels cheap. Does that make the upcharge for the Artis Opus worth it? Probably not, but if you can't get them then your choices are limited and pretty spendy.
When you mentioned a new glue., I had to look into it! Unfortunately, the cost in the US has shipping from overseas worked into the price. Mitre Bond starts at $45 usd for the small kit. It it's worth it, I'll shell out the cash. I'm having a big problem with the Rotmire creed warband. I must have gotten a bum box, all of the blow pipes and long weapons are breaking, and I keep finding bubbles in the breaks. Tamiya extra thin or regular orange bottle blend aren't keeping things together because there is so little surface area. I sanded and cleaned the surfaces with alcohol, followed by distilled water to get off any residue before gluing. I've tried using the tiny pins (0.02 mm) from dress shirt packaging as pins, but even those are too big to work. Any suggestions? I've swapped out all I can from remaining bits but the replacements have the same issue. I didn't know every model had issues until everything was 90% painted and it's heart breaking.
If you're a new painter and you're watching this video, pls don't paint your models by holding it by the base, you will forget at some point and touch the model somewhere you've just painted and smear the paint or you will drop it. Pls get yourself something to hold the model & get some kind of cutting mat.
What else is primer if it isnt a paint then guys? Joe is 100% correct in his reckoning. Also George really needs to reassess his descision before commenting on any of the other guys lists 50% of your £100 budget is a single brush and a pallete both of which can be found far far cheaper without sacrificing quality. George definitely didnt nail it 😂😂
they went for the cheapest tools and are using time in place of money. Like yea if you simply want your miniatures to be "legal ready" it's like maybe 30 usd. It will make them rule acceptable for tabletop play. But if you want totally just single coat models with 0 definition to them then yea nail clippers, some sand paper, super glue with craft paint + a cheap brush from a store will get you at the table and the models will cost you the most. But high pigmented paint cost money, good sable hair brushes cost money, plastic cement cost money, an airbrush and an air compressor cost money. It's honestly always up to you how much effort you want to put in.
Weird challenge. Start a hobby for £100 - One synthetic brush, some wire cutters and a scalpel. Kitchen foil for the palette and a camping cup for water. Cheapest superglue. Spend the rest on more models and more paints. Start with the basics. Don't buy £20 brushes if you are starting, you don't have the skill to get value. Models and paints will always be the most important factor in your model painting hobby.
Yh cheap out on nippers is one of the things that I do think my tamiya are the most expensive nippers I bought, I have filed my cheapest nippers to sharpen them up
Why do you buy primer from a spray ‘paint’ section if it’s not paint? It has pigment after all. Are you suggesting that air brush paint isn’t paint ? 😉 I’m with Joe 🤷♂️
Just make youre army using ALL models of the month. It'll take 3 or 4 years and you'll have a very strange army that you'll have to proxy, but it'll be cheap. Just joking.
I have epic encounters, the miniatures look great, unfortunately I've not gotten around to it ,I'm still in orktober 😂I'm also working on a corvette stingray,Yoda bust and a titan hound
Between an electric drill and a wet palette, the wet palette is INFINITELY the better choice!! I've never been without a wet palette, and wouldn't want to be without one. A drill, no, just no.
I'm siding with Joe, saying you already have paint would include the brush on primer in my drawer. Even air brush primers can be painted on. I stand with Joe ✊
I'm with Joe, primer is paint.
Of course it is, it's just a type of paint!
if it got pigment in it it's paint :D
Yeah I'd also say primer is included.
Primer is part of paint to me. It’s on the shelf at my local stores with the rest of the spray paint.
What's special about acrylic paint primer? Isn't the only difference between normal acrylic paint the pigment?
@@CTimmerman From a formulation POV, a primer and a paint are two different things.
A primer will typically have pigment that is not as finely ground, so doesn't leave as smooth a finish as a paint.
They're also intended to prepare a surface for paint, the primary function of which is to 'bite' into the surface they're applied to. This means they adhere to a given surface much better than a paint does. In turn, they then give a surface that paint will adhere to much better.
Certain primers, such as Mr Hobby Surfacer, also contain elements that prompt autoleveling, so they'll fill in light scratches and other such blemishes to give a smooth surface for paint.
@@RequiemWraith That would explain the course sandy texture of my old Corax White spray, but Vallejo Dark Green for one is smooth and shiny. So if primer can be course or smooth, that still doesn't differ from thick or thin base/layer Citadel paint.
@@CTimmermanthis also depends on primer colour - white is, as always, the worst, with rattle can primer requiring more shaking than grey or black
@@Jfk2Mr Good thing imma use a wet brush/palette and some White Scar straight onto a resin proxy then. I skipped the palette for Abbadon Black and that worked great on a resin tire.
How does everyone else use their Tamiya Extra Thin? I put the 2 parts together and apply to the join with capillary action.
Oh how it is generally supposed to be used you mean 😅
Yeah. The Extra Thin is so much harder to use if you apply, then put together, I don't think I've ever used it that way. That's why I ask, in case I'm missing something.
This is how I use it. If its a really big surface I might blob I tiny bit in the middle too. Just hold the parts together for 30 seconds until its sticky enough to stay held together or employ a clothes peg. Sometimes if the jointing pieces are don't quite sit right all the way round the joint because its warped a bit, you can squeeze it together and let it go a couple of times to mush the now liquid plastic splurge out the high spot, then trim/sand back after its dried (make sure its fully dried or it makes a mess). Oh and primer is definitely paint!
I've been using liquid plastic glues for over 30 years (Liquid Poly originally but Extra Thin in the last few years). I have always brushed generously onto one side, give it a second or two to start melting, then press the second part firmly into place and hold for a few seconds. The soft joint gives me lots of opportunity to adjust or fix placement and the final result is as solid as you will ever need. If the part has low contact surfaces I will coat both surfaces and hold in place longer. For bigger or ill-fitting parts, I'll use sprue goo, made from the same glue to a slow-drip consistency. Slosh it on liberally and wipe away the excess. DGAF how it's "supposed" to be used, this always works for me. Experiment and see what works for you.
Honestly I think you should have included paints in the £100 as if you need all of these things to set up to paint minis why do you already have all the paints? Still a great episode non the less.
I got one of the cheap hobby starter kits off Amazon a year ago - £16 then, £18 now. Cutting mat, clippers, files, sanding blocks, pin vice, box cutter, 3 sets of tweezers, steel rule and sharpening stones. Still going strong a year on, and apart from the pin vice (upgraded to a mini battery drill) and the sanding blocks (worn out) I'm still using it all pretty much daily. Really really good starting point imo.
Add another “Primer is paint.” for me. Even if you want to argue it, I’d expect spray primer and varnish to be included since that’s not even a fraction of what I’d expect to spend on paints.
Also, if we were including paints, several sets to 30-50 American $ includes primer or varnish.
I’d grab some tuberware around the 10$ range, 10$ on getting kitchen roll and parchment paper. 30$ on a set of 3 sable brushes from amazon. Alotting 10$ for plastic shot glasses and sticky tak. 10$ for clippers, 10$ for a hobby knife and blades. 20$ for some tamiya extra thin and some super glue and activator.
Primer is paint the same way a base is a model. Its not the first thing you think of but if someone showed you their model you expect a base to be a package deal.
this is great - probably some of the most useful "hobby tools" advice I've seen and absolutely hilarious banter
Also, yes, primer is absolutely a type of paint. It is formulated for a specific purpose, preparing the surface to be painted and improving adhesion, but is a paint nonetheless.
As such, including it in an existing paint collection is entirely valid.
I’m with Joe. I would not include primer if I was told paints not included. Don’t let those pro painters push you around. If you go to the hardware store and they will send you to the paint department if you need primer.
DSPIAE is a modelling company that focuses more on the gundam side of things but they sell packs of really nice sanding foam for ~$8 USD that are 7 pieces of 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400 each.
£100 How I'd spend it...
Prep
£1 cheap Craft knife
£3 cheap cutting mat (Not essential you might have other surfaces you can use)
£3 a few sheets of fine sand paper (about 800)
Undercoat
£5 A cheap rattle can of Matte Black paint from a hardware store
Paint
£35 - Vallejo Game Colour Paint Set (Included because its absolutely possible)
Brushes
£3 A pack of hobby synthetic brushes from the pound shop
£8 Size 2 kolinsky sable brush from details
£2 A size suitable dry brush (ie a makeup brush from the pound shop)
Palette
food packaging can be used as a dry pallette (free - YOU DO NOT NEED A WET PALETTE)
but if you prefer it:
£3 for a cheap tupperware tub
£2 Sponge cloth for wet pallette
£3 Greaseproof (baking) paper
Glue
£6 Polycement
£5 superglue (doesn't matter what kind)
£2 PVA (craft) glue (for basing)
£4 Kitchen Roll (Blitz or similar)
£85 total plus £15 for some second hand models off facebook market place/Ebay.
Only thing missing is a lamp. and maybe a bottle of nuln oil, although you can make your own wash with black/brown paint watered right down and adding in a tiny drop of dish soap.
Acrylic primer is by definiatim a type of paint. Joe ftw!
Primer is part of the paints, otherwise you might have to buy several primers depending on the model and what colour you want it to be
When I started the hobby at 12 yrs old, my high value tools were like 3€ Revell brushes or something. A lot was from the hardware store. But that was a long-ass time ago when global markets haven't yet been as open and accessible.
I’ve only gotten around to listening to this episode - thanks for answering my question on the dioramas. Immediately I’m rethinking of my plan which involved a lot more than two models… maybe I’ll save that idea for diorama number two!
Great meeting you all again. Glad I could catch the boot! Sorry for pouncing in the car park 😂
Also siding with Joe. Primer is in the paint section of the hobby store. And 100% on the magnifying glasses. Many of us don’t have 20/20 vision and it’s essential to be able to “ENHANCE” (that’s what I whisper to myself every time I put them on).
Primer is absolutely paint, and the 25 quid magnifying headset with a light attached is also a good call.
we demand a link to the fish bowl
Primer isn't paint but if someone said paint is not needed, I would assume primer and varnish are included. These guys should try Gundam if they want good quality plastic. To be fair I've only done GW models from like ten years ago and they don't feel quality. Also for the price of the drill you could get a single action nail airbrush. Great intro item.
Would also love to have some additional videos on diorama, true metallic, and multi stage highlights.
The problem with the nail airbrush is finding a good one versus a bad one. If you are starting out it can be hard to find the non scam ones.
You can very easilly get all the paints and tools you need, as well as a few minis, for way under 100 quid. Everything over is just convenience and quality of life.
I'm happy with my 55 euro Introductory Set of 40k, which lacks some paints seen on the cover art, but refers you to their other products. The free Infernus marine the store handed out can even join the 5 man squad in my fragile 3rd party Impulsor, at the cost of 5 more due to the annoying unit system. The set comes with a paper playmat, cardboard walls, and basic rules to play though, so i don't have to wait for my order to be complete or i've memorized what stratagem colors do as well as all the rules for every faction i'd face.
@CTimmerman excellent. I introduced a friend to the hobby a while back, got him two packs of those 3 man easy to build kits from Indomitus era, reivers and intercessors, glue, primer, nippers, couple brushes and couple paints and a knife for about 75 euro total. At the time, 3 reivers and 3 intercessors also happened to be a decent starter space marine kill team. As a challange to myself I set my budget at under 80, wich was the price of the latest AAA video game
David Soper doesn’t use primer! You’re ok Joe!! Another cracking podcast ❤😂
Some good picks from everyone here (and some absolutely insane ones, naturally) but boys - what are you going to dry brush with? Not even a mention of cheapy make up brushes, let alone actual purpose-made ones!
Also agree with Joe (or at least on his side) about the primer. It's pigmented, it's paint. Also £20 on a pair of LED magnifying spectacles is an actually massive quality of life purchase and I'd put it in my own list of essentials on a budget. As a long-sighted hobbyist they absolutely changed the game for me.
Otherwise, yeah. Tamiya Extra Thin, accept no substitutes. When you get halfway through it, turn it into sprue glue and get another bottle of Extra Thin, now you have gluing options and gap filling. Tamiya 1000 grit sanding sponge. Swan Morton #3 handle, 10A blades. Engineer NP-05 micro nippers. 50p ceramic tile - if it's good enough for the 'eavy Metal team etc. ~£5 cutting mat from Amazon. Miliput for basing and gap filling and sculpting, much cheaper than green stuff and more versatile. Toothbrush for getting the plastic dust off your minis after you've been at them with the sanding sponge. Gorilla Super Glue Gel for sticking anything non-plastic. Big pack of shitty synthetic brushes from a hardware store to avoid messing up the nice sable brushes you probably still have a bit of budget for. And always remember, the Middle of Lidl is your friend!
I'm with Joe on the magnification too. As George always tells us, with regard to the Onyx lamp- "It's no good if you can't see what you're doing in the first place!" Exxept I wouldn't spend £20... I use £1.50 reading glasses at +3.50 mag. With the money saved, I'd get Rose and Co series 33 brushes in a couple of sizes and some very cheap synthetics for metallics and drybrushing.
gloss ceramic tile - £1.50, paint set - £15-25, brushes £1-5, can of primer £8, kitchen roll £2, model kit say £35, clippers £3, glue £1.50 total = £76 so yeah its easy to paint warhammer for under £100 heck if i follow your rules im spending under £30 lol
paint sets can be poster paints, or miniture specific (vallejo do some great sets)
I legit think Joe did best for a beginner friendly starter set; mainly targeting cheap-but-sturdy lower end of intermediate kit (i.e. good enough it won't hold you back, but not so pricey you can't ruin it/experiment), practical size of brush, and avoiding wet palette - yes I agree wet palette is the better option overall, but day 1 painting, keep it simple with a tile (as a new painter you might get anxious using up all those sheets and is the palette wet enough etc.etc..). I think paint sets themselves should totally have been included; would be really interesting to know what you'd choose, and it'd maybe cause the more ridiculous purchases (like a super duper palette or drill!) to be dropped.
Also, shout out for Tamiya or Humbrol grey primer, only c. £8 (delivered) on ebay at time of writing, and great multi purpose stuff whether working dark to light or light to dark
Look at the bloody smile on James' face as he marches around with his finds XD How can you be upset with the man just finding happiness in what others (90% of the planet) would consider waste!
Id be more on the side of priming as the final stage of preparation - even accounting for zenithal. Test for me is, id assemble and prime, then put away to paint later if I'm working through assembly projects to let the prime cure, so see it as part of prep and assembly.
I would swap out the Haribos for some coffee or a warm beverage of your choice (plus it's a bonus high-stakes water pot)
Great episode, loved the banter
Actually, yeah - I was team Haribo, but I just defected to team coffee
I couldn't see the paint exactly, but I found a bottle of unopened Deadly Nightshade from decades back. Am using it to paint some Slann regiments from the early 80s. Result.
£100 seems like a lot of budget if you don't include paint like, even including a colour forge spray primer. Good picks on Tamiya Extra Thin and Rosemary and Co. Brushes though - I switched to series 33 after synthetic brushes kept being rubbish and honestly that size 0 is a workhorse.
Hawk brushes are an even cheaper Kolinsky option but the Rosemary and Co. I found to be better.
Finding good reliable workhorse brushes can change a lot depending on your location. For example Tintoretto series 334 size 1 and 3 are two heavy hitters for about 4 euros each if you live in Italy, but probably hard to find elswwhere. In general, go to a shop that specializes in art supplies, and ask to see the kolinski ones for fine details in the 5-10 euro range each. A local brand will likely have something good for you to go.
And yes, primer is a paint. 😂
This is an excellent exercise.. I'd blend your lists.. Toss the drill and expensive palette.. Use the homemade palette, multiple brushes a cheap pin vise and be happy all around
- Speedwox side cutters 10£
- Da Vinci series 36. No 1 and 3 ~20£
- Army Painter wet pallet 22£
- Honoson 40 sanding sticks 80-7000 13£
- Tamyia extra thin 5£
- Montana Plastic Primer 15£
- Hobby Knife with blades 4£
- Hobby Drill with bits 6£
Total: 95£
30:00 George killing it 🤣
Cracking show gents. Absolutely choc full of tips and advice. I definitely will be adding some sanding sponges and George's blades to my shopping list. Sticking up for Joe here. Primer is paint imho but also, from doing a number of painting sessions and lessons, you can happily brush on base acrylic paints as a primer if that's your best option at the time. Surprised no one went for a varnish to protect your paint work!
Also great tip on unwelding glued parts with plastic glue. I use the Revell and GW glues myself with the needles and often they clog. If you reverse the needle in the bottle and give it a moment the glue will dissolve the clog and away you go 👍
As always a ton of laughs in the episode. Got a few to catch up on after a minor hobby sabbatical but thanks again for always being here for us.
Question, have any of you done long sessions of airbrushing? If so, any tips on getting around trigger finger fatigue?
I ended up using the larger brush from the regular white bottle in the thin green bottle so that it applied a thicker coat
Will say I do think the warhammer starter paint set is actually very good value, get a quality set of clippers, mould line remover (albeit a bit fiddly) and 9? paints of good variety, for the extra tenner on top of the clippers don’t think you can go wrong
Rosemary and Co brushes are like 9-30 eur (yeah, same model that was linked) in German stores.
the blue handle clippers branded "Plato" usually available 3 or 4 for £5er, great for the price and very sharp
Swaps the magnifier for ready readers out of a pound store, spray primer is not a essential when starting out yes it does deliver better results but when I started I primed by brush.
You know I've found (if you're trying to save money) that the plastic packaging container the Army Painter palette sponge/paper refills comes in is the perfect size to make your own wet palette 😆
I feel liked for your lists you missed the cuddly toy, his and hers matching watches, toaster and a tea set.
Nice to see you, to see you. Nice
Primer is paint.
P&P should be factored in - especially for spray primers, which have to be sent securely which is expensive
If you exclude paint, then that would also exclude primer if it wasn't specified otherwise
If you already have paint, how do you not already have primer? I'm with Joe on that. And on the subject of Haribo.
Extra thin definitely doesn't always work on its own unless you slosh it on
I hate, absolutely hate, those tiny 00 brushes. You can load the tip for tiny details and then, right when you start to paint, its completely dry. So you might get about 1/2" (13mm ish) then you're done. Rinse and reload. That sucks. Ive learned to use a size 1 or 2 with a laser sharp point.
I’ve still got a scar just above my thumb from using kitchen scissors to clip my mordor orcs in approx 2003. Got the wrong angle, blades separated and closed weirdly and gashed my hand
Put me on team 'paint means primer'. I'm kind of surprised that, in a list presumably for beginners to the hobby, I didn't see much consideration for a good brush for drybrushing. Particularly for new painters, I just don't see them getting a lot of mileage out of one brush.
Cut far from the part, and then cut close. But you can do that with a reasonable godhand clone for $15
Except some intro set Tyranids are super tight on the sprue.
The only thing I haven't scrimped on its paints. I've spent alot on the army painter fanatic range and the Vallejo metalics. But I've been cheap with alot of the other stuff.
Primer is paint, surly. If you're not including paint or minis as consumables, primer is right in there
Here in the United States there aren't really many sources for Rosemary & Co brushes. I had to buy them from some small mom and pop store via telephone. But having both those and Artis Opus I can say that I get great results from either, but that painting with the Rosemary & Co brush feels like painting with a disposable chopstick. The handle feels cheap. Does that make the upcharge for the Artis Opus worth it? Probably not, but if you can't get them then your choices are limited and pretty spendy.
100% with Joe, especially with the brush. Its the brush i use 80% of the time. I even do eyes with it.
When you mentioned a new glue., I had to look into it! Unfortunately, the cost in the US has shipping from overseas worked into the price. Mitre Bond starts at $45 usd for the small kit. It it's worth it, I'll shell out the cash. I'm having a big problem with the Rotmire creed warband. I must have gotten a bum box, all of the blow pipes and long weapons are breaking, and I keep finding bubbles in the breaks. Tamiya extra thin or regular orange bottle blend aren't keeping things together because there is so little surface area. I sanded and cleaned the surfaces with alcohol, followed by distilled water to get off any residue before gluing. I've tried using the tiny pins (0.02 mm) from dress shirt packaging as pins, but even those are too big to work. Any suggestions? I've swapped out all I can from remaining bits but the replacements have the same issue. I didn't know every model had issues until everything was 90% painted and it's heart breaking.
I’m with Joe primer is paint
Cheap magnifying glasses are the way to go. Avalable upto 3× mag normaly .
Alco harribo sour mix!
If you're a new painter and you're watching this video, pls don't paint your models by holding it by the base, you will forget at some point and touch the model somewhere you've just painted and smear the paint or you will drop it. Pls get yourself something to hold the model & get some kind of cutting mat.
EMA Plastic Weld is £4.25 for 300ml!!! Why do people keep buying Tamiya!!? Agree with Swann Morten, No 3 handle with Blades 11 and 15T.
Primer is 100% paint to me, I choose my primer based on what I'm painting, it affects my first base coat, if it's a pigmented layer it's a paint
This was an excellent episode guys!
I would think primer is included because miniature primers are not true primer. They are listed as"undercoat," which, to me, is a paint.
Brilliant video guys!! Great banter and some questionable set up decisions 😂haribos would defo make everyone’s list 👍
Third person Joe needs his own show 😂🤘❤️ random shops and talking to people 👌
The Three Stooges. LOL .. Gold hearing the different ideas and interpretations. Cheers 😄👍
The link to the lists isn't working for me :(
What else is primer if it isnt a paint then guys? Joe is 100% correct in his reckoning. Also George really needs to reassess his descision before commenting on any of the other guys lists 50% of your £100 budget is a single brush and a pallete both of which can be found far far cheaper without sacrificing quality. George definitely didnt nail it 😂😂
Primer is £2.50 from Poundland I've not tried it though
Primer is paint. Also, where's your milliput/green-stuff ?
I'm using 1500 grit and I feel I still want to use a higher grit, I dunno.
Sooo its not really the tools that cost to much…. Could it be the absurd price of popular models?
they went for the cheapest tools and are using time in place of money. Like yea if you simply want your miniatures to be "legal ready" it's like maybe 30 usd. It will make them rule acceptable for tabletop play. But if you want totally just single coat models with 0 definition to them then yea nail clippers, some sand paper, super glue with craft paint + a cheap brush from a store will get you at the table and the models will cost you the most. But high pigmented paint cost money, good sable hair brushes cost money, plastic cement cost money, an airbrush and an air compressor cost money. It's honestly always up to you how much effort you want to put in.
Omfg definitely one of my fav convo's 😂
You need micro tips for your super glue tubes or bottles come in packs of 5 or temu in packs of 100
Hair dryer makes no sense to me. But I don't live in a humid area
Now you have to each buy these kits and prove who's is best in a video :)
Primer is definitely paint. It's irrelevant how you apply it, by spray can, airbrush or brush... you can apply paint via all those methods.
I got a big sports direct cup for non metallic rinse and I have dolmio jar for metallic rinse
The blitz is not the bar…you want the bar. You go Kirkland K/roll. The Rolls Royce if your a connoisseur
Weird challenge. Start a hobby for £100 - One synthetic brush, some wire cutters and a scalpel. Kitchen foil for the palette and a camping cup for water. Cheapest superglue. Spend the rest on more models and more paints. Start with the basics. Don't buy £20 brushes if you are starting, you don't have the skill to get value. Models and paints will always be the most important factor in your model painting hobby.
Yh cheap out on nippers is one of the things that I do think my tamiya are the most expensive nippers I bought, I have filed my cheapest nippers to sharpen them up
Why do you buy primer from a spray ‘paint’ section if it’s not paint? It has pigment after all. Are you suggesting that air brush paint isn’t paint ? 😉
I’m with Joe 🤷♂️
Wait for a sunny day....avarge number of overcast days in a mining region , close to 100%.
None of you added a cheap makeup brush for drybrushing?
Dec-romunda, because every model is a Necromunda model.
Just make youre army using ALL models of the month. It'll take 3 or 4 years and you'll have a very strange army that you'll have to proxy, but it'll be cheap. Just joking.
Or get a color laserprinter and some standees. OnePageRules saves even more time.
I would include the primer
That's the battle manual I was asking about a while back!!
The real cheapest way to paint is to make friends with a few people that paint and borrow.
Would love to get you guys into Warmachine.
I side with Joe. Primer is paint!
anyone know which japanese clippers james recommended? there are several on amazon with similar price
I always find my primer in the paint section 😂😂😂. Just saying. I second the primer is paint
I have epic encounters, the miniatures look great, unfortunately I've not gotten around to it ,I'm still in orktober 😂I'm also working on a corvette stingray,Yoda bust and a titan hound
I've got revel contacta professional and auto thinners
Not all paints are primers but all primers are paints.
Between an electric drill and a wet palette, the wet palette is INFINITELY the better choice!! I've never been without a wet palette, and wouldn't want to be without one.
A drill, no, just no.