Thank you I just put my system together today. I didn’t realize I had the AC input and output in the wrong order thanks to you everything is working well
Ive been using my growatt 24v for some time now, absolutely love it. You can over panel the unit but make sure you set the solar charging amps to 70-73 not 80... any more than 2000 watts incoming into the unit will fry the mppt. Trust me
Wow, interesting. After asking about over paneling on for the growatt es ( diysolarforum.com/threads/can-i-over-panel-a-growatt.58714/#post-730299 ) ... I felt pretty comfortable over paneling. Should I still be concerned?
@DIY Solar Fun with Ray Loveless I would be, I over paneled my unit and between the charge and load it pulled over 2400w and it cooked the mppt. Had to order another unit. Once I went in and limited the charge amps to 72 It never goes over 2000w and just caps out all day. On a cloudy day it preforms very well as i have a 3s5p array using 250w panels.
@Phil Snyder It sounds like you have 3500 watts out there. That's pretty good! I will definitely adjust my amps! Thank you!! 🙏. I'll mention it on the forum. Too bad they couldn't replace the unit for you.
@@WattsMiner did you order from signature solar? I guess you technically went over the specified 2000 Watts for your unit. Even though everyone says you can over panel.
@DIY Solar Fun with Ray Loveless i bought it off amazon (first mistake) and yes you can over panel it but you dont want it to draw more than 70amps at 29.2v (just over the 2k threshold)
Gonna copy everything you got but gonna shoot for 10-12 panels on semi movable mounts, will use it to run my furnace blower like you had and my fridge...will consider getting an EV to work as a power dump, second car kinda deal. You are really good at explaining everything you need to know, great teacher.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Figured things out now, got lucky I grabbed 10 panels, was looking at older specs on previous model. Can run 5 in series and 2 of those in parallel and hit 200v dc at 20 amps, love when stuff just works out in the end...appreciate you sparking my curiousity, now just waiting on shipping.
Great video. I run the 24v version in my house for critical loads. I feed it into a Reliant 6 circuit generator transfer switch for flexibility. I set the mode seasonally. Winter is UPS mode and summer is Solar priority. There is a Neutral/ Ground bonding issue with these units, and there are multiple NG bonds on the circuit board. This caused problems with several GFCI breakers in my main panel. There are several videos on this topic floating around.
Interesting, thank you for the comment. I may have some more questions for you on this. I really like this unit. How did you get around the GFCI issues?
It sounds like I might have the same or similar set-up as you and am also having issues when plugged into a GFCI receptacle for AC In. In my case I am sending the AC Out back to the same panel as my AC in vis a Reliance manual transfer switch. My GFCI trips if I also have the AC Out connected, and is fine if I don't. It would seem like A neutral to ground bonding issue, and I have tried disconnecting ground from the GFCI, and that prevents the tripping, but only when AC is in standby. As soon as I switch it in to say charge my batteries - instant trip. How have you solved the problem on your end?
I tried removing the n/g bonding screws on the main board per videos posted on RUclips. Did not work. I have left it as is. I plan on upgrading to an EG4 6000XP which does not have this issue. I need the built in split phase to run my mini split.
@@jimgraham290 that's a good idea. I just finished installing one on my house this week. It's doing awesome! Fyi... signature solar $50 discount code : RAY
I don't have this unit anymore. But it's pretty easy. There is just a setting in there where you can select use grid as the primary power source and Battery as the backup power source. Also signature solar could help you set it up on the phone pretty easily if the setting isn't clear. It's pretty easy. If you don't need to connect solar I think I the 3000 es/ 5000es model instead. They're just a little bit newer and have a better interface.
YOU NEED TO PUT AC DC CIRCUIT BREAKERS ON THE AC OUT AND AC IN TURN THEM OFF FROM CERCUT BREAker SWICH THEN TURN OFF THE INVERTER THEN ATACH FUSE TO THE BATTERY THEN 125 DC SWITCH FOR THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE BATTERIES WIRE OTHER WISE YOU BLOW IT UP SPOONER OR LATER THERE NEED TO TURED OF FROM CIRCUIT BREAKERS FIRST OTHER WISE YOU KNOW THE CAPACITORS THEN YOU GET ERROW 9 AND SEND IT IN FOR REPAIR.
I think you're suggesting using a pre-charged resistor to connect the battery first. Many of these server rack batteries have a pre-charge resistor circuit built in so you don't have to worry about that.
It seems growWatt and EG4 aren’t the best made inverters! I’ve been watching lately as people have struggled with these. I’m not sure if it’s the firmware or build quality or both! I’ve had two different Victron inverters, and I’ve never had any problems at all! The only issue I ever had was pre-charging the inverter in order to get it to work properly. But from what I hear, you have to do that on all of them. Let’s hope they get the bugs out ! 🖖
Yeah, I was asking about if I need to pre-charge this unit...They said that my 48 battery has a circuit that runs on start up that pre-charges the capacitors. that's pretty nice. This is my first one but I think Id agree with you on the build quality...
Great video! good catch on the fan being blocked by the plastic shield. Any reason why you aren't using the Growatt/EG4 communication? I got the ES version but they didn't throw in those nice battery cables.
Yeah, I usually do the battery communication with the communication cable. I wasn't sure I wanted to include that in this video so created a little "short" showing it. I think i'm going to get the es version an put it on my RV.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay The ES version has a high start up voltage which means more panels and large panels which is not ideal for and RV. I would stick with the 145v version for RV use and get an ES version for home. Another advantage of the ES for home use is that you can run one large string of panels and not have to use super thick conductors for your panels.
@LeafNutz thanks. On my RV I will be using 6 40 volt, 315w panels in series. I have been doing a lot of testing and I think in most shade scenarios I still should be above the 120 operating V min limit for the es model. I also plan on having a combiner box where I can plug in 3 extra strings of 6 volt panels just in case an emergency and I need over paneling for shade situations. It would be similar to power traveling trailer. . But with my RV At least that is what I am envisioning it to be . Hopefully setting up the es version is not going to be a mistake.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Unless you can maintain over 160v, I would stick with the 145v NON ES version. I'm hoping you meant 6 400 watt panels and not 40 watt panels. The main advantage of the ES model's higher voltage is running single string with no combiner box. I run 6 365 watt panels in a single string for about 240v VOC and it works great. Just make sure you install a panel disconnect or DC breaker to shut off the panels anytime you need to swap stuff out.
@LeafNutz they are 6 315 w mono panels. Around 40v each. I plan on getting this combiner box, which has a shut off, I think that would be sufficient. the combiner box would just be to add panels from a ground array in case I need to. It would be very convenient to add them 6 at a time signaturesolar.com/eco-source-4-string-combiner-box/
can these offgird inverter, do things such as 1st priority uses battery until e.g. 30% left then switch over the main's power? so basically use solar+battery as primary but grid power as backup? or something like this requires hybrid inverter?
Yes, you can definitely do that. I am not sure if you can determine a specific cut off point. But there are settings where you can say use solar first then battery, or use battery first then solar then utility. Or use your utility first and always have battery available in Case utility goes out.
is it possible to have two AC inputs connected at the same time? One 30amp as you have installed and a 15amp plug. This would be ideal to plug at different locations.
There's only one input port but you could get a 30amp to regular plug adaptor for when your at a location that only offers 15 amps. And then there is a setting where you can adjust how much power you want to draw from the ac input.
Hi ive been watching your video and a little confused about the ac in /out .. can you have two cables both plugged into a socket. For in and out if i make sense.
If the Growatt is supplying the load (the powerstrip in this example, 6:36) by AC Power from the Grid, is it also simultaneously charging the battery if connected?
The AC charger charges 120v at 40 amps. There is a setting that you can specify how much of those 40 amps you want dedicated to charging the battery. For example, Say it's dark outside(no-solar) and plug into shore power that can provide the full 40amp AC charging... if you specify 30 amps battery for battery charging.. You'll then have 10 amps to run your loads with. You can adjust the ratios for your needs. If you have solar that can also supplement power for you. I haven't messed with that setting much.. but that's my understanding... I mailed this unit in in-exchange for the "es" model so sorry I can't 100% confirm that for you.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Thank you for all the helpful, well explained, insight into all this. I am shadowing your install. I haven't decided if it will be in the Motorhome or in the garage. I am still learning.
You can set it to what you want. always pull from solar and battery first to save on your electrical... Or if you want to always keep the battery full in case power outage you can have it use grid first and switch to battery as 2nd option(acting as a UPS)
What gauge (AWG) wire are you using to connect the solar to the Growatt? It looks like 8AWG but I have found that most of the MC4 connectors are for 10AWG and smaller. My panels will be far from the Growatt and will need at least 8AWG and so need MC4 connectors that can accommodate the "large" wire.
Yeah, my MC4 connectors aren't sized for the wire I'm using. I need to get some additional MC4 connectors. Hopefully this helped you a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions...if you want to buy anything use my links and it will help me out alot.
For long runs many people have the MC4 connector go into a combinerbox near the solar panel and then they run the cheaper 8 or 10 awg wire that you get at the hardware store.
when I saw you turn on a blender full of water next to the inverter and battery I literally face palmed! don't do that.. Helpful video though, thank you.
If you can guestimate for me to verify, got 3p3s 365 panels, should be 120V 30A coming into this inverter....do you think I have a good shot at no issues? With the 120ft to inverter on 10gauge wire, will be slightly less Volts and amps I am assuming.
After panels merge and before the run toward the house planning on putting an off switch and a 30amp inline fuse to protect the inverter/battery in the house.
That is a very long run of 10 gauge wire. You are definitely going to have power loss with that. On a high-producing day it may melt the wires! Because it's 125 ft , it would be much better to have them in series.
Yup. There's a communication cable so you can have closed loop communication. That battery % will show up on the inverter if you used the communication cable.
Only the es version works with out the battery. I did a review on that one as well. If you are jumping from a 12 volt battery I would just do a 48 volts battery. I use a 30 amp 48 volt to 12 volt step down converter to run all of my 12 volt appliances in my RV. The 48 volt to 12 volt converter perfect and is super efficient.
You are one of the very FEW people who explain this in a very simple way that people can understand. Great job.
Thanks!
Great video. I'm a total beginner so explanation of the color coded wires was very helpful.....
Thank you I just put my system together today. I didn’t realize I had the AC input and output in the wrong order thanks to you everything is working well
Cool. Glad it is all working 👍
That was a fun video to watch.I Like the hook up details and explanations thanks.
Thanks.
Ive been using my growatt 24v for some time now, absolutely love it. You can over panel the unit but make sure you set the solar charging amps to 70-73 not 80... any more than 2000 watts incoming into the unit will fry the mppt. Trust me
Wow, interesting. After asking about over paneling on for the growatt es ( diysolarforum.com/threads/can-i-over-panel-a-growatt.58714/#post-730299 ) ... I felt pretty comfortable over paneling. Should I still be concerned?
@DIY Solar Fun with Ray Loveless I would be, I over paneled my unit and between the charge and load it pulled over 2400w and it cooked the mppt. Had to order another unit. Once I went in and limited the charge amps to 72 It never goes over 2000w and just caps out all day. On a cloudy day it preforms very well as i have a 3s5p array using 250w panels.
@Phil Snyder It sounds like you have 3500 watts out there. That's pretty good! I will definitely adjust my amps! Thank you!! 🙏. I'll mention it on the forum. Too bad they couldn't replace the unit for you.
@@WattsMiner did you order from signature solar? I guess you technically went over the specified 2000 Watts for your unit. Even though everyone says you can over panel.
@DIY Solar Fun with Ray Loveless i bought it off amazon (first mistake) and yes you can over panel it but you dont want it to draw more than 70amps at 29.2v (just over the 2k threshold)
Gonna copy everything you got but gonna shoot for 10-12 panels on semi movable mounts, will use it to run my furnace blower like you had and my fridge...will consider getting an EV to work as a power dump, second car kinda deal. You are really good at explaining everything you need to know, great teacher.
Gonna build two arrays 5 panel on 2x4 frames with a kickstand and a few castor wheels under them to make moving easy.
Kickstand tied in with a chain on a hook to be able to adjust easier.
Nice! Sounds fun! Great back up setup.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Figured things out now, got lucky I grabbed 10 panels, was looking at older specs on previous model. Can run 5 in series and 2 of those in parallel and hit 200v dc at 20 amps, love when stuff just works out in the end...appreciate you sparking my curiousity, now just waiting on shipping.
Great video. I run the 24v version in my house for critical loads. I feed it into a Reliant 6 circuit generator transfer switch for flexibility. I set the mode seasonally. Winter is UPS mode and summer is Solar priority. There is a Neutral/ Ground bonding issue with these units, and there are multiple NG bonds on the circuit board. This caused problems with several GFCI breakers in my main panel. There are several videos on this topic floating around.
Interesting, thank you for the comment. I may have some more questions for you on this. I really like this unit. How did you get around the GFCI issues?
It sounds like I might have the same or similar set-up as you and am also having issues when plugged into a GFCI receptacle for AC In. In my case I am sending the AC Out back to the same panel as my AC in vis a Reliance manual transfer switch. My GFCI trips if I also have the AC Out connected, and is fine if I don't. It would seem like A neutral to ground bonding issue, and I have tried disconnecting ground from the GFCI, and that prevents the tripping, but only when AC is in standby. As soon as I switch it in to say charge my batteries - instant trip. How have you solved the problem on your end?
I tried removing the n/g bonding screws on the main board per videos posted on RUclips. Did not work. I have left it as is. I plan on upgrading to an EG4 6000XP which does not have this issue. I need the built in split phase to run my mini split.
@@jimgraham290 that's a good idea. I just finished installing one on my house this week. It's doing awesome! Fyi... signature solar $50 discount code : RAY
Would you pls demonstrate how to programme the inverter as a UPS (without a solar panel mode)
I don't have this unit anymore. But it's pretty easy. There is just a setting in there where you can select use grid as the primary power source and Battery as the backup power source. Also signature solar could help you set it up on the phone pretty easily if the setting isn't clear. It's pretty easy. If you don't need to connect solar I think I the 3000 es/ 5000es model instead. They're just a little bit newer and have a better interface.
YOU NEED TO PUT AC DC CIRCUIT BREAKERS ON THE AC OUT AND AC IN TURN THEM OFF FROM CERCUT BREAker
SWICH THEN TURN OFF THE INVERTER THEN ATACH FUSE TO THE BATTERY THEN 125 DC SWITCH FOR THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE BATTERIES WIRE OTHER WISE YOU BLOW IT UP SPOONER OR LATER THERE NEED TO TURED OF FROM CIRCUIT BREAKERS FIRST OTHER WISE YOU KNOW THE CAPACITORS THEN YOU GET ERROW 9 AND SEND IT IN FOR REPAIR.
I think you're suggesting using a pre-charged resistor to connect the battery first. Many of these server rack batteries have a pre-charge resistor circuit built in so you don't have to worry about that.
It seems growWatt and EG4 aren’t the best made inverters! I’ve been watching lately as people have struggled with these. I’m not sure if it’s the firmware or build quality or both!
I’ve had two different Victron inverters, and I’ve never had any problems at all! The only issue I ever had was pre-charging the inverter in order to get it to work properly. But from what I hear, you have to do that on all of them.
Let’s hope they get the bugs out ! 🖖
Yeah, I was asking about if I need to pre-charge this unit...They said that my 48 battery has a circuit that runs on start up that pre-charges the capacitors. that's pretty nice. This is my first one but I think Id agree with you on the build quality...
Great video! good catch on the fan being blocked by the plastic shield. Any reason why you aren't using the Growatt/EG4 communication? I got the ES version but they didn't throw in those nice battery cables.
Yeah, I usually do the battery communication with the communication cable. I wasn't sure I wanted to include that in this video so created a little "short" showing it. I think i'm going to get the es version an put it on my RV.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay The ES version has a high start up voltage which means more panels and large panels which is not ideal for and RV. I would stick with the 145v version for RV use and get an ES version for home. Another advantage of the ES for home use is that you can run one large string of panels and not have to use super thick conductors for your panels.
@LeafNutz thanks. On my RV I will be using 6 40 volt, 315w panels in series. I have been doing a lot of testing and I think in most shade scenarios I still should be above the 120 operating V min limit for the es model. I also plan on having a combiner box where I can plug in 3 extra strings of 6 volt panels just in case an emergency and I need over paneling for shade situations. It would be similar to power traveling trailer.
. But with my RV At least that is what I am envisioning it to be . Hopefully setting up the es version is not going to be a mistake.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Unless you can maintain over 160v, I would stick with the 145v NON ES version. I'm hoping you meant 6 400 watt panels and not 40 watt panels. The main advantage of the ES model's higher voltage is running single string with no combiner box. I run 6 365 watt panels in a single string for about 240v VOC and it works great. Just make sure you install a panel disconnect or DC breaker to shut off the panels anytime you need to swap stuff out.
@LeafNutz they are 6 315 w mono panels. Around 40v each. I plan on getting this combiner box, which has a shut off, I think that would be sufficient. the combiner box would just be to add panels from a ground array in case I need to. It would be very convenient to add them 6 at a time signaturesolar.com/eco-source-4-string-combiner-box/
Can you charge the battery off of a gas generator? if so, what size generator would be used?
Yes, I would make sure the generator produces clean power output though. The inverter should let you adjust the charge rate
can these offgird inverter, do things such as 1st priority uses battery until e.g. 30% left then switch over the main's power? so basically use solar+battery as primary but grid power as backup? or something like this requires hybrid inverter?
Yes, you can definitely do that. I am not sure if you can determine a specific cut off point. But there are settings where you can say use solar first then battery, or use battery first then solar then utility. Or use your utility first and always have battery available in Case utility goes out.
I think you can program it from number 21 in programming. I have mine set to 40% then it shuts down
Do you know the idol consumption will stand by consumption of these inverters
they are around 50 Watts idle
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay oh ok thats great i may be getting me one soon
is it possible to have two AC inputs connected at the same time? One 30amp as you have installed and a 15amp plug. This would be ideal to plug at different locations.
There's only one input port but you could get a 30amp to regular plug adaptor for when your at a location that only offers 15 amps. And then there is a setting where you can adjust how much power you want to draw from the ac input.
Hi ive been watching your video and a little confused about the ac in /out .. can you have two cables both plugged into a socket. For in and out if i make sense.
Sorry I'm not sure I'm following your question.
Hi Ray! Tell me please, how loud this inverter is. Like, would it be convenient to place the device in a home office?
I think it would be a little too loud for a home office. The bluetti power station I reviewed was almost silent and would be better for an office
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay thanks for your response
If the Growatt is supplying the load (the powerstrip in this example, 6:36) by AC Power from the Grid, is it also simultaneously charging the battery if connected?
The AC charger charges 120v at 40 amps. There is a setting that you can specify how much of those 40 amps you want dedicated to charging the battery. For example, Say it's dark outside(no-solar) and plug into shore power that can provide the full 40amp AC charging... if you specify 30 amps battery for battery charging.. You'll then have 10 amps to run your loads with. You can adjust the ratios for your needs. If you have solar that can also supplement power for you. I haven't messed with that setting much.. but that's my understanding... I mailed this unit in in-exchange for the "es" model so sorry I can't 100% confirm that for you.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Thank you for all the helpful, well explained, insight into all this. I am shadowing your install. I haven't decided if it will be in the Motorhome or in the garage. I am still learning.
Does it constantly pull energy from AC if available? Or it pulls primary from battery?
You can set it to what you want. always pull from solar and battery first to save on your electrical... Or if you want to always keep the battery full in case power outage you can have it use grid first and switch to battery as 2nd option(acting as a UPS)
I've read a couple complaints about these giving off excessive RF/EMI has that been a problem for you?
Sorry, I have measured that.
Can't get my Pv to charge the battery I all the sudden doesn't show the panels and charge light isnt lit
Did you try calling support?
What gauge (AWG) wire are you using to connect the solar to the Growatt? It looks like 8AWG but I have found that most of the MC4 connectors are for 10AWG and smaller. My panels will be far from the Growatt and will need at least 8AWG and so need MC4 connectors that can accommodate the "large" wire.
Yeah, my MC4 connectors aren't sized for the wire I'm using. I need to get some additional MC4 connectors. Hopefully this helped you a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions...if you want to buy anything use my links and it will help me out alot.
For long runs many people have the MC4 connector go into a combinerbox near the solar panel and then they run the cheaper 8 or 10 awg wire that you get at the hardware store.
when I saw you turn on a blender full of water next to the inverter and battery I literally face palmed! don't do that.. Helpful video though, thank you.
If you can guestimate for me to verify, got 3p3s 365 panels, should be 120V 30A coming into this inverter....do you think I have a good shot at no issues? With the 120ft to inverter on 10gauge wire, will be slightly less Volts and amps I am assuming.
With used panels, and that run...guessing purely it will really end up below 110V and 27 amps
After panels merge and before the run toward the house planning on putting an off switch and a 30amp inline fuse to protect the inverter/battery in the house.
I just bought that inverter and a used battery like yours from them with that wifi usb from your affiliate link.
Will have a 3Kw system with mounts made for under 4.5k, used panels/battery
That is a very long run of 10 gauge wire. You are definitely going to have power loss with that. On a high-producing day it may melt the wires! Because it's 125 ft , it would be much better to have them in series.
Does your EG4 battery communicate with the inverter?
Yup. There's a communication cable so you can have closed loop communication. That battery % will show up on the inverter if you used the communication cable.
Maximum load how much watt i can take
This inverter will output 3000 watts.
Subscribed 👍
Hi; how much 12v solar you use for this all in one Inverter?
The spec's can be downloaded here: signaturesolar.com/growatt-48v-3kw-150vdc-stackable-off-grid-inverter?ref=DiySolarPowerFun
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay thank you.
Can this version work with no battery? I’m torn between the 48v no battery and 24v battery
Only the es version works with out the battery. I did a review on that one as well. If you are jumping from a 12 volt battery I would just do a 48 volts battery. I use a 30 amp 48 volt to 12 volt step down converter to run all of my 12 volt appliances in my RV. The 48 volt to 12 volt converter perfect and is super efficient.