I put the #3117 kit on my 22 Les Paul ‘50s, and it was very effective. The Gibson ABR-1 bridge that came on the guitar works fine with this kit. This got rid of the ice pick highs and gave my Lester a more vintage sound and feel.
Can I just say that I replaced all the hardware on my Les Paul junior with Faber 🙈 absolutely brilliant equipment 👍🏻👍🏻 I used vintage hardware. Sound is incredible. I’m not a guitar technician just a player, it was an easy change out. Just my opinion by the way. 👍🏻👍🏻
This is a nice setup. My only complaint is that the threaded section is too long and the studs protrude over the top of the bridge with the action set to Gibson spec. The studs are sharp and uncomfortable. I thought about cutting them down with a Dremel cutoff wheel but don’t want to break the nickel plating.
This dude is genius in engineering, but not when do marketing. please put all links to all of your products you use in this video. so you can close the sales from the effort you put on this video.
Hi, thanks for sharing. I have a question. I have done the job in my LP 2008 Supreme, replaced the posts and original Nashville bridge for the Faber ABR (bought the whole kit + stop bar). Definitely sounds better, but I can't setup the guitar with Gibson specs anymore, because the G and D strings would buzz too much. Frets are perfectly level. Do you you know if the bridges have different radius?? Thanks
Quality materials from Faber-no doubt. Tried these steel inserts on both my Les Pauls- sustain increased but large amounts of steel= steely/thin tone. Went back to the conversion bushings, got the midrange/growl/balls back to my tone. Original Les Pauls used brass ABR post/studs, and a lot less of it. The original may be less sturdy, but is the better mousetrap for tone. It's easy enough to replace the brass originals if they bend over (unscrew them)- or/and you can add another set of thumbwheels to reinforce them- I've done this with ABR1 direct to the wood before- works great-keeps your tone from changing.
Thanks for the information. I was curious as to why they didn't make the studs out of brass. I ordered a bridge but it looks like I will be sticking with the factory studs.
@@Joltin_Navi I found M8 thread brass Nashville style for Epiphone that fit a non-locking Faber at Philadelphia Luthier but that is not the same thing.
@@qua7771 PL makes good stuff Saddles make the most difference to me New ones suck...sharp pointy tops where the old ones were wider and flatter on top
I have a 2018 sg and I just now figured out that the true historic no-wire abr bridge I bought is not going to work I need to take out these old bushings and I want to use my new abr how do I buy one of those tools ???
Looks like it's been a year since you inquired about the stud removal tool. You can get either the same size threaded rod/machine bolt say 3 inch and therapy the wing nut all the way to the top then screw a nut right up under the wing nut and tighten them against each other. This is called creating a jam nut. If you Google jam nut, you will see the configuration. I needed to do this on a guitar the holes were a little deep and couldn't quite get tool all the way to bottom. That got tge old anchor out easily like video shows. Just needed more depth.
I wanted to ask, can I use this system on a Les Paul with a factory TonePros TP6 or on a USA Gibson SG with factory Nashville? I could use the INsert system, but I want to change the bridge to an ABR-1 and as far as I know, the INsert studs are thicker than the ABR-1 holes.
Yes, the studs on the iNsert for Nashville are too big for an ABR-1. The other more serious issue is the post spacing. ABR-1 is narrower than Nashville, so you can't fit an ABR-1 to a guitar with Nashville spacing.
@@faberusa4256 pretty bad we have to get correct parts from the Germans for an American guitar...shame on Gibson...you need some leadership, and basic understanding of what Les Paul was about
@@shaneeubanks2323 the saddles are the worst offender from Gibson and make the most difference to my ear The originals had a wider flatter peak and we're a little bigger maybe more mass but seem to give a warmer tone than the pointy saddle tops they make now Such a simple thing you would think Gibson would get it right
i ordered this kit for my 2019 les paul standard and the post wouldnt go all the way in i had a hell of a time to get it back out but once i did i had to grind a little of the bottom then it fit perfect against the body.measure measure lol
I have had experience with the bridge post bushing on some Gibson's that where so lose you could just flip over the axe and they just fall out! Faber Hardware from Germany is the SHIT! Forget that 'TonePros' Crap!
I bought recently an abr brigde for my gibson les paul but i cant put the 100 % of the post inside the cavity? what can i do? there is no lutheir in my city
@@tonetherod5943 or grind a bit of the new one down a touch To my ear the saddles make the most difference The peak on originals are flatter and wider Seems to give a warmer tone Check out Johan Segborne demo's will show the results
Never had a problem in any of my LPs with the "sloppy" ABR-1. I'm sure its a nice bridge, but I wouldn't ruin the value of an LP. It always looks bad on a mug when they dimish other.mfg, except if its a fact. I wouldn't characterize an ABR 1 as "sloppy". Now it was made from better components you could compare that, but this is just wrong.
If your playing fairly clean, there is a noticeable difference in tone with the brass flatter saddles, lighter frame and better metallurgy. Some like the vintage look or the smaller bridge and clearance for lowering the stop tail. I never seen a need for the locking mechanism either.
@@adrianpierce3047 I'm a fan of the Faber. It beats the Gibbi historic and is more like the vintage bridge in construction. In the previous post, I meant thicker brass saddles but the tops have a flat spot (not a sharp angle) for better contact. As far as I know, almost every other ABR type bridge seems to be made of the same zinc alloy and most are manufactured in China. I'm not sure if the country of origin matters but the Faber says made in Germany and claim they are made of 70% zinc, 30% aluminum. They are in about the same price range as others. I put one on my Gibson to replace a Nashville and one on my Epiphone. Both gained some lower mids growl and resonance. The bridges on both guitars came stock with zinc alloy saddles. The Epiphone seems to have benefited most but I also replaced the steel bridge post on it with brass conversion ones from Philadelphia Luthier. Since I was changing strings, I used a light weight aluminum stop tailpiece with steel studs. Both guitars resonate more and have noticeably better harmonics and sustain. Not an extreme change but worth the money to me.
@@qua7771 im on the same page, i have put 4mm brass studs + thumbwheels + light alloy stop on a LP, i want to try the, Faber 1978-1980 LS120 Les Paul Reborn - orig. ABR w.... which is why i made the comment, i also might fabricate some brass saddles & buy nickel/brass intonation screws..i too like the tonal improvements
Do you guys also make roller bridges? Would like to do this conversion but also use a roller bridge instead
I put the #3117 kit on my 22 Les Paul ‘50s, and it was very effective. The Gibson ABR-1 bridge that came on the guitar works fine with this kit. This got rid of the ice pick highs and gave my Lester a more vintage sound and feel.
Can I just say that I replaced all the hardware on my Les Paul junior with Faber 🙈 absolutely brilliant equipment 👍🏻👍🏻 I used vintage hardware. Sound is incredible. I’m not a guitar technician just a player, it was an easy change out. Just my opinion by the way. 👍🏻👍🏻
This is a nice setup. My only complaint is that the threaded section is too long and the studs protrude over the top of the bridge with the action set to Gibson spec. The studs are sharp and uncomfortable. I thought about cutting them down with a Dremel cutoff wheel but don’t want to break the nickel plating.
This dude is genius in engineering, but not when do marketing. please put all links to all of your products you use in this video. so you can close the sales from the effort you put on this video.
I agree. Also his website is kind of a mess, imo.
I used the faber e-serts with a tonepros locking tuneomatic, worked great
Boy that tone lock bridge would be bad ass for imports.
they make a version for metric guitars
Hi, thanks for sharing. I have a question. I have done the job in my LP 2008 Supreme, replaced the posts and original Nashville bridge for the Faber ABR (bought the whole kit + stop bar). Definitely sounds better, but I can't setup the guitar with Gibson specs anymore, because the G and D strings would buzz too much. Frets are perfectly level. Do you you know if the bridges have different radius?? Thanks
The thumb wheels on my conversion ABR posts are stuck. they are supposed to adjust while the threaded posts stay stationary, correct?
Quality materials from Faber-no doubt. Tried these steel inserts on both my Les Pauls- sustain increased but large amounts of steel= steely/thin tone. Went back to the conversion bushings, got the midrange/growl/balls back to my tone. Original Les Pauls used brass ABR post/studs, and a lot less of it. The original may be less sturdy, but is the better mousetrap for tone. It's easy enough to replace the brass originals if they bend over (unscrew them)- or/and you can add another set of thumbwheels to reinforce them- I've done this with ABR1 direct to the wood before- works great-keeps your tone from changing.
Thanks for the information. I was curious as to why they didn't make the studs out of brass. I ordered a bridge but it looks like I will be sticking with the factory studs.
I too wish they made these post out of brass. In fact I emailed them to see if I could custom order a set of brass post. Haven’t heard back yet.... 🤞🏽
@@Joltin_Navi I found M8 thread brass Nashville style for Epiphone that fit a non-locking Faber at Philadelphia Luthier but that is not the same thing.
@@qua7771 PL makes good stuff Saddles make the most difference to me New ones suck...sharp pointy tops where the old ones were wider and flatter on top
@@paulcowart3174 Are you referring to the new Faber brass saddles?
How does it make it better?I tried a new callaham bridge,made my les paul too bright,sounded like garbage,i took it off.
Just for curiosity because i ordered these yesterday, the posts and the wheels are just plated brass right?
I have a 2018 sg and I just now figured out that the true historic no-wire abr bridge I bought is not going to work I need to take out these old bushings and I want to use my new abr how do I buy one of those tools ???
Looks like it's been a year since you inquired about the stud removal tool. You can get either the same size threaded rod/machine bolt say 3 inch and therapy the wing nut all the way to the top then screw a nut right up under the wing nut and tighten them against each other. This is called creating a jam nut. If you Google jam nut, you will see the configuration. I needed to do this on a guitar the holes were a little deep and couldn't quite get tool all the way to bottom. That got tge old anchor out easily like video shows. Just needed more depth.
I wanted to ask, can I use this system on a Les Paul with a factory TonePros TP6 or on a USA Gibson SG with factory Nashville? I could use the INsert system, but I want to change the bridge to an ABR-1 and as far as I know, the INsert studs are thicker than the ABR-1 holes.
Yes, the studs on the iNsert for Nashville are too big for an ABR-1. The other more serious issue is the post spacing. ABR-1 is narrower than Nashville, so you can't fit an ABR-1 to a guitar with Nashville spacing.
@@faberusa4256 The solution for the spacing issue could be using the Faber ABRN bridge? Thank you for your answer btw
@@gianlucadecicco5921 Yes, ABRN is for Nashville spacing and the hole size is correct with the iNsert.
@@faberusa4256 Thanks for your help, you saved me from wasting money. I'm going for the insterts + abrn.
😎👍🥇
Are the Faber USA parts actually made in the USA? Not like reboxed or anything....but actually made by an American worker?
Faber is a German company and the parts are all imported from Germany. The "About" page on our website explains it. faberusa.com/about-faber/
@@faberusa4256 pretty bad we have to get correct parts from the Germans for an American guitar...shame on Gibson...you need some leadership, and basic understanding of what Les Paul was about
@@shaneeubanks2323 the saddles are the worst offender from Gibson and make the most difference to my ear The originals had a wider flatter peak and we're a little bigger maybe more mass but seem to give a warmer tone than the pointy saddle tops they make now Such a simple thing you would think Gibson would get it right
i ordered this kit for my 2019 les paul standard and the post wouldnt go all the way in i had a hell of a time to get it back out but once i did i had to grind a little of the bottom then it fit perfect against the body.measure measure lol
Hmmm I've listened to a lot of demo's and the saddles are what make the most difference Other components not really so much IMO
I bought a set and i stead of hammer in they were screw in and they sucked to install.
I have had experience with the bridge post bushing on some Gibson's that where so lose you could just flip over the axe and they just fall out!
Faber Hardware from Germany is the SHIT! Forget that 'TonePros' Crap!
I bought recently an abr brigde for my gibson les paul but i cant put the 100 % of the post inside the cavity? what can i do? there is no lutheir in my city
Use a drill bit and hand twist until deep enough. Helps if you have a caliper.
@@tonetherod5943 or grind a bit of the new one down a touch To my ear the saddles make the most difference The peak on originals are flatter and wider Seems to give a warmer tone Check out Johan Segborne demo's will show the results
Never had a problem in any of my LPs with the "sloppy" ABR-1. I'm sure its a nice bridge, but I wouldn't ruin the value of an LP. It always looks bad on a mug when they dimish other.mfg, except if its a fact. I wouldn't characterize an ABR 1 as "sloppy". Now it was made from better components you could compare that, but this is just wrong.
If your playing fairly clean, there is a noticeable difference in tone with the brass flatter saddles, lighter frame and better metallurgy. Some like the vintage look or the smaller bridge and clearance for lowering the stop tail. I never seen a need for the locking mechanism either.
@@qua7771 which bridge has flatter brass saddles & lighter frame and better metallurgy, apart from the early & expensive gibson original ABR 1's
..
@@adrianpierce3047 I'm a fan of the Faber. It beats the Gibbi historic and is more like the vintage bridge in construction. In the previous post, I meant thicker brass saddles but the tops have a flat spot (not a sharp angle) for better contact. As far as I know, almost every other ABR type bridge seems to be made of the same zinc alloy and most are manufactured in China. I'm not sure if the country of origin matters but the Faber says made in Germany and claim they are made of 70% zinc, 30% aluminum. They are in about the same price range as others.
I put one on my Gibson to replace a Nashville and one on my Epiphone. Both gained some lower mids growl and resonance. The bridges on both guitars came stock with zinc alloy saddles. The Epiphone seems to have benefited most but I also replaced the steel bridge post on it with brass conversion ones from Philadelphia Luthier. Since I was changing strings, I used a light weight aluminum stop tailpiece with steel studs. Both guitars resonate more and have noticeably better harmonics and sustain. Not an extreme change but worth the money to me.
@@qua7771 im on the same page, i have put 4mm brass studs + thumbwheels + light alloy stop on a LP, i want to try the,
Faber 1978-1980 LS120 Les Paul Reborn - orig. ABR w....
which is why i made the comment, i also might fabricate some brass saddles & buy nickel/brass intonation screws..i too like the tonal improvements
Like epiphone
Buyer beware. These posts do not fit Gibson ABR 1 or Nashville bridges.
yes they do
he literally showed it fitting in the video
The posts that I purchased did not fit my Gibson bridges. I believe that the bridge used in the video is a Faber brand. @@looking_33