If you're a seasoned Arcade Stick modder, it's pretty straightforward to solder a JLF with a 5-pin connection to the main PCB. Check out the fightstick here: amzn.to/33g5iiw
So I’m not exactly experienced with modding sticks, but if I’m not mistaken, all I would need to do is solder the wires of a 5-pin harness to the nodes on the PCB next to the 8-pin connector that’s on the board where the stick currently connects? The ones labeled with the directions and ground? (Or alternatively, could I just solder in a male 5-pin connector and never have to worry about soldering it again?)
it looks like on the PCB the joystick has a separate header which you can simply pull out to disconnect the stick and you can replace the cable with a double sided JST-XH 5 pin so you can connect it your sanwa JLF with no need to solder
All the reviews for this complain about the Torx, but that’s a very smart decision by 8BitDo on a product that is intended to be moddable. Why? Because Phillips screws strip incredibly easily and Torx heads rarely do, so screwing and unscrewing Torx screws repeatedly will be much safer for the user. I really appreciate this feature. You can also unplug the stick wire from the board and leave it with that stick, then use a new wire with your new stick. Sure it’s $3 extra, but it’s super easy that way.
Just got this stick as my first fight stick ever. I'm in love with it and its cute retro design. As a 34 year old it brings me back to the NES days...I dont have anything to compare it with..but with all my fighting games and 2d platformers...its awesome 🥰
was very hyped about it at first, but couldn't wait for it to finally release, so I ended up buying used RAP4 (even cheaper than 8bitdo), sanwa lever and buttons. watching your review I've realized that I made a right choice, cause soldering not equal ultra-moddable for me
I like this stick and 8Bitdo products overall. They do a really nice job. The controllers of theirs that I own and have used all have a very high quality oem feel that I greatly appreciate. Thank you so much for this great review @Mr. Sujano. I appreciate it.
That doesn't mean anything. It wont take screw in buttons without cutting the screw ring, and it won't even fit a seimitsu ls-40 without scratching the bottom and not returning to neutral. Even for enthusiasts, this is absolutely not ultra modable by any stretch. It's false advertising, simple as that. They even claim it will fit an IL lever on the amazon listing (they removed it from their own website), which is a joke.
a 5pin joystick works, you just need a female to female 5 pin cable and plug it in the the 8 pin on the PCB, you should only need 1 ground pin and the 4 directional pins
@@Eth3realwarrior assuming from a picture on screen isn't at all a reliable source if it isn't blatantly obvious that theres enough room. There's a review on amazon explicitly stating the issue with the ls-40 in detail. I can't say either way about korean levers. Again, I don't own the product, and can't actually test it. I don't feel comfortable saying either way based on eyeballing pictures, but my hopes would be relatively reserved until someone actually tries it and posts results.
I was thinking of buying this the other day but amazon canada didn't have any in stock. didn't want to import... But now that i've seen the issue with the screw holes..., as well as the inside of the stick (no colour coding on the wires? really? ) I might reconsider ...but I really like look of the case... and the mode toggles... Thanks Alan!
I actually got Gamerfinger screw ins into this, but it was an extremely tight fit, and I think when I take them out, they will be a pain in the ass, but I got them in. I tried it in BT mode on PC, and it feels very fast and accurate playing Xrd. The joystick itself needs to get tossed out immediately though, it's wayyyy too loose.
Am i the only one that prefers the look of the normal f300 over the elite? I bought one and am putting sanwa parts in it to keep the look of it. Although admittedly it's only a backup stick, so I don't have much skin in the game. Might actually make it a silent stick instead
I dont think i would change a thing. Always love the NES advantage scheme. The Happ parts are uh questionable to me. Is there enough room for Short stem IL buttons or do that just mean a Happ stick?
Amazon review one person say that Seimitsu LS-40 not fit in this stick is a pity i want to put, and I.L arcade i not sure if can put this arcade without make great holes
@@unaigalder it definitely doesn't fit happ or IL levers. Whoever said that is insane Amazon details still say it fits all the stuff as well, no update there.
wow soldering? i need to invest and learn how to solder but i really wouldnt expect it in a fightstick made anytime recently. kinda glad i passed on buying one for now
If you have a t10 bit and no screwdriver that fits, you could try to use needle nose plier to hold the bit and open it that way. Regardless, that's a pain in the ass
I would like to understand how to set it up in Recalbox (Raspberry Pi) On the Arcade Stick, how should I position the 2 "main" buttons (top left)? 1) switch mode: switch / off/ X-input? (obviously to switch off the stick, you must position this button on "off") 2) control stick switch: left-stick - d-pad - right-stick (I have absolutely no idea what this is all about) And in Recalbox, how do you configure this stick? (I know the "joysticks" and "configure a joystick" menu, but then?)
I'm a newb to fight sticks. Would there be a way to put an octagon piece underneath the joystick, so you could ensure 8 direction movement to make inputs easier? I notice it's just a square under there.
I mean, its 8bitdo, not a well known fight stick company. Looks pretty good for me though, more casual fighting game player, as well as arcade game player, wish it had more compatibility, but still good for the price
How about if you slip the screw-in washer under the PCB first then screw the button into the washer? Example: I have some Gold-leaf arcade concave buttons that I would like to fit. I also have TE2+ and the button closest to the stick does not fit as the metal stick mount gets in the way of the button. However slipping it under the stick metal mount first works. EDIT: Just tried it and the washer part of the screw-ins are too big. I know you can buy slim washers but I think I will just stick with Sanwa.
Considering this for street fighter and retro games and i will be pairing it with a crt in my setup. Though I'm not sure which one would be best for retro gaming as far as picture sound and latency goes, got any suggestions?
I did some really basic frame counting with the "," and "." keys on browser RUclips and counted bluetooth having 4 frames of lag, wireless dongle 7 frames of lag, and wired 5 frames. Very unscientific but still strange results
Those are entirely expected results for emulated games on Switch. Heavy Shmup players have measured the input lag on Switch and consistently found Bluetooth to be fastest, with everything that goes through the dock incurring a latency penalty. Of course, PC will likely be different. 3 frames is about the best total latency you can expect on Switch in docked play, 4 is about average. Actually one could fear more given the track record of Capcom's emulated titles with regards to input lag. Also remember that even the best emulators tend to have some inherent lag, unless you use Retroarch's playahead feature.
I have this and I'm not the biggest fan of the stick .... with fighting games i'm used to a smooth 360 directional stick. while I can do the dragon punch... its pretty hard to do a fireball or the spinning kick attack.... guess ill play as guile until I figure this out. any suggestions?
I feel like it is more connected with what I think that I know with the more classic versions of SF .... but like I was seeking out the perfect D pad fer those and always failed.... I guess ill just dig out the snes and go to the laundromat for what I'm looking for lol
Clearance at the bottom supposedly not sufficient for Seimitsu sticks and there's supposedly issues with the "universal" mounting plate; see the Amazon dot com reviews of it. Massive shame; I cancelled my order as a result.
Um, torx screws are nearly as standard in working on gaming devices in general as Philips head, and you find this to be a huge strike against 8bitdo lol
The bigger issue he had was the size of the holes. I know I'm not the only person who keeps a large set of bits to attach to one screwdriver, so I can imagine how much that would suck, especially due to the availability of thin tiny philips head screwdrivers. But besides that: yeah, if you're going to be modding and opening up game related anything, not having a set of torx bits would be a pointless exercise in frustration. You will run into them eventually, might as well get used to it.
Dude the stick feels like garbage, its loose and the plastic casing from the knob to base move around when you move back and forth. You talked wayyyy to much about the button layout (residentsleeper) its an ok fightstick at best.
You buy it for the board that is wireless and can be used on a switch... Not for its parts... 8bitdo's wireless connection is almost as good as wired... For 90$ i'd say its worth it...
The fact other things exist doesn't make this a terrible product. It's in fact a really good well made product for the price with a lot of features a Mayflash sure as hell doesn't have lol. Also, Seimitsu is where it's at.
Eh, considering you need to plug in a controller to the mayflash, thats arguable. Id say it's a mediocre product at best, although the false advertising is absolutely terrible.
If you're a seasoned Arcade Stick modder, it's pretty straightforward to solder a JLF with a 5-pin connection to the main PCB.
Check out the fightstick here: amzn.to/33g5iiw
So I’m not exactly experienced with modding sticks, but if I’m not mistaken, all I would need to do is solder the wires of a 5-pin harness to the nodes on the PCB next to the 8-pin connector that’s on the board where the stick currently connects? The ones labeled with the directions and ground? (Or alternatively, could I just solder in a male 5-pin connector and never have to worry about soldering it again?)
@@icee113 Yep! It's not overly difficult.
Did you try it out with a retro reciever?
it looks like on the PCB the joystick has a separate header which you can simply pull out to disconnect the stick and you can replace the cable with a double sided JST-XH 5 pin so you can connect it your sanwa JLF with no need to solder
@@brandob5452 where would i be able to find this double sided jst-xh? Sorry im totally new to this
All the reviews for this complain about the Torx, but that’s a very smart decision by 8BitDo on a product that is intended to be moddable. Why? Because Phillips screws strip incredibly easily and Torx heads rarely do, so screwing and unscrewing Torx screws repeatedly will be much safer for the user. I really appreciate this feature.
You can also unplug the stick wire from the board and leave it with that stick, then use a new wire with your new stick. Sure it’s $3 extra, but it’s super easy that way.
I think the newer version uses philips though
Just got this stick as my first fight stick ever. I'm in love with it and its cute retro design. As a 34 year old it brings me back to the NES days...I dont have anything to compare it with..but with all my fighting games and 2d platformers...its awesome 🥰
Can you use it with kof? Metal slug? Fightcade?
@@leoerggg8891 YES, YES, YES
was very hyped about it at first, but couldn't wait for it to finally release, so I ended up buying used RAP4 (even cheaper than 8bitdo), sanwa lever and buttons. watching your review I've realized that I made a right choice, cause soldering not equal ultra-moddable for me
Dont need to solder. 5 pin cable female on both sides in the 8 pin of the pcb. Just cut off a nub from the 5 pin pin to fit into the 8 pin perfectly.
Also can buy a 10 dollar harness from arcade shock that comes with ties to slide the cables in and crimp, that's my suggestion
I like this stick and 8Bitdo products overall. They do a really nice job. The controllers of theirs that I own and have used all have a very high quality oem feel that I greatly appreciate. Thank you so much for this great review @Mr. Sujano. I appreciate it.
could you not just get a 5pin connector with new lever? you won't need to solder then
Great video! Cool that you got it to work on the raspberry pi and phone.
literally says it on the box, smh
Very informative and straightforward, thanks
Very good review. Good job.
Finally, a review that mentions delay.
8bitdo could have added a description saying that its ultra moddable and for enthusiasts and not for newbies
That doesn't mean anything. It wont take screw in buttons without cutting the screw ring, and it won't even fit a seimitsu ls-40 without scratching the bottom and not returning to neutral. Even for enthusiasts, this is absolutely not ultra modable by any stretch.
It's false advertising, simple as that. They even claim it will fit an IL lever on the amazon listing (they removed it from their own website), which is a joke.
a 5pin joystick works, you just need a female to female 5 pin cable and plug it in the the 8 pin on the PCB, you should only need 1 ground pin and the 4 directional pins
Maybe not ultra mod-able but super mod-able. The color scheme is definitely cool.
Super moddable is a stretch. It can't even fit a seimitsu ls-40 without scratching the bottom and not returning to neutral
@@CGoody564 from the look of it on screen it looked deep enough, guess Korean sticks are out of the question too.
@@Eth3realwarrior assuming from a picture on screen isn't at all a reliable source if it isn't blatantly obvious that theres enough room. There's a review on amazon explicitly stating the issue with the ls-40 in detail.
I can't say either way about korean levers. Again, I don't own the product, and can't actually test it. I don't feel comfortable saying either way based on eyeballing pictures, but my hopes would be relatively reserved until someone actually tries it and posts results.
I was thinking of buying this the other day but amazon canada didn't have any in stock. didn't want to import... But now that i've seen the issue with the screw holes..., as well as the inside of the stick (no colour coding on the wires? really? ) I might reconsider ...but I really like look of the case... and the mode toggles... Thanks Alan!
I actually got Gamerfinger screw ins into this, but it was an extremely tight fit, and I think when I take them out, they will be a pain in the ass, but I got them in. I tried it in BT mode on PC, and it feels very fast and accurate playing Xrd. The joystick itself needs to get tossed out immediately though, it's wayyyy too loose.
That's just s spring swap and it's be anything you'd prefer , it's goes by pounds if you search em
Guys,
Buy a harness from arcade shock and there's no cutting or soldering anything.
Very easy ^.^
Love your channel and reviews, but I rather purrchase the mayflash f300 elite instead, it comes with sanwa parts
Am i the only one that prefers the look of the normal f300 over the elite? I bought one and am putting sanwa parts in it to keep the look of it.
Although admittedly it's only a backup stick, so I don't have much skin in the game. Might actually make it a silent stick instead
I dont think i would change a thing. Always love the NES advantage scheme. The Happ parts are uh questionable to me. Is there enough room for Short stem IL buttons or do that just mean a Happ stick?
Amazon review one person say that Seimitsu LS-40 not fit in this stick is a pity i want to put, and I.L arcade i not sure if can put this arcade without make great holes
Absolutely no happ or IL buttons or levers. It's absurd. And other reply is correct about the seimitsu ls-40.
@@CGoody564 Today 8bitdo uddate and it´s not compatible but yesterday he said that fits Happ and I.L joystick in his website detail item
@@unaigalder it definitely doesn't fit happ or IL levers. Whoever said that is insane
Amazon details still say it fits all the stuff as well, no update there.
wow soldering? i need to invest and learn how to solder but i really wouldnt expect it in a fightstick made anytime recently. kinda glad i passed on buying one for now
Not defending the product here, but solders are pretty cheap and you can learn how to do it in about 5 minutes. It's really not that hard.
You can use a 5 pin connector in its 8 pin connector
4:19 I pin point where to solder the 5 pin JLF. Thanks!!
The hell I went through to open the bottom of that thing for my review.
If you have a t10 bit and no screwdriver that fits, you could try to use needle nose plier to hold the bit and open it that way. Regardless, that's a pain in the ass
I would like to understand how to set it up in Recalbox (Raspberry Pi)
On the Arcade Stick, how should I position the 2 "main" buttons (top left)?
1) switch mode: switch / off/ X-input? (obviously to switch off the stick, you must position this button on "off")
2) control stick switch: left-stick - d-pad - right-stick (I have absolutely no idea what this is all about)
And in Recalbox, how do you configure this stick? (I know the "joysticks" and "configure a joystick" menu, but then?)
Just use a 5-pin female-female connector and a PCB joystick. It's really not complicated.
I'm a newb to fight sticks. Would there be a way to put an octagon piece underneath the joystick, so you could ensure 8 direction movement to make inputs easier? I notice it's just a square under there.
I am pretty sure you could slap a Sanwa Octo-gate on the bottom pretty easily
I mean, its 8bitdo, not a well known fight stick company. Looks pretty good for me though, more casual fighting game player, as well as arcade game player, wish it had more compatibility, but still good for the price
I guess I can't install a Crown Lever and I hope they are making a Famicom version I'm curious what it looks like?
I have seen a crown new help me lever fit in it though, may wanna look into that. Just disappointed screw in buttons can’t fit.
How about if you slip the screw-in washer under the PCB first then screw the button into the washer? Example: I have some Gold-leaf arcade concave buttons that I would like to fit. I also have TE2+ and the button closest to the stick does not fit as the metal stick mount gets in the way of the button. However slipping it under the stick metal mount first works.
EDIT: Just tried it and the washer part of the screw-ins are too big. I know you can buy slim washers but I think I will just stick with Sanwa.
You talk about how easy it is to solder but then complain about needing a t10 screwdriver? 🤔
Good review. I have a question.
If I wanted to change to an octagonal gate, do you know which one fits in there with the stock stick?
Got mine today. No torx 10 anymore... Phillips screws.
Considering this for street fighter and retro games and i will be pairing it with a crt in my setup. Though I'm not sure which one would be best for retro gaming as far as picture sound and latency goes, got any suggestions?
chuck norris?
Would this work with 8bitdo retro reciever and snes/nes classic? I'm dead if it does.
Late answer... But it does work 😎
the lack of palm rest that makes me hold myself to buy this things, does it really bother if you play for a long time?
i wonder if there will be a converter so you can use this on a supergun or the neo geo
Mine came with phillips screw. They probably changed it because of the feedback.
So is the JLF the only thing that fits in this thing? I can't cram a hayabusa in there?
Why can't you just turn the stick round so the pin out is facing the other side?
I did some really basic frame counting with the "," and "." keys on browser RUclips and counted bluetooth having 4 frames of lag, wireless dongle 7 frames of lag, and wired 5 frames. Very unscientific but still strange results
Those are entirely expected results for emulated games on Switch. Heavy Shmup players have measured the input lag on Switch and consistently found Bluetooth to be fastest, with everything that goes through the dock incurring a latency penalty. Of course, PC will likely be different. 3 frames is about the best total latency you can expect on Switch in docked play, 4 is about average. Actually one could fear more given the track record of Capcom's emulated titles with regards to input lag. Also remember that even the best emulators tend to have some inherent lag, unless you use Retroarch's playahead feature.
How bout on pc in using the dongle is bluetooth better?
Dam that soldering and the push buttons ruined this for me. Right on for the video
I have this and I'm not the biggest fan of the stick .... with fighting games i'm used to a smooth 360 directional stick. while I can do the dragon punch... its pretty hard to do a fireball or the spinning kick attack.... guess ill play as guile until I figure this out. any suggestions?
just comes with time and practice!
@@jacobgosse7892 yeah I kinda figured it out
I feel like it is more connected with what I think that I know with the more classic versions of SF .... but like I was seeking out the perfect D pad fer those and always failed.... I guess ill just dig out the snes and go to the laundromat for what I'm looking for lol
hi how to replace the battery on this arcade stick and what type of battery does it use?
Clearance at the bottom supposedly not sufficient for Seimitsu sticks and there's supposedly issues with the "universal" mounting plate; see the Amazon dot com reviews of it. Massive shame; I cancelled my order as a result.
That's specifically for the ls-40. Other seimitsu's are unconfirmed. I imagine the ls-62 or ls-33 kai would definitely fit.
@@CGoody564 have you heard anything since? Still interested if it fits a Seimistsu ls32.
does this stick has extra VCC point? in case i want to use optical PCB for sanwa levers.
You could splice in to the usb vcc if you're willing to risk it drawing too much power away from the rest..
What size are the buttons, what buttons do you recommend?
Sanwa 30mm
It works with super NT por mega SG?
is good with 2D games?
What is the best wireless Arcade Stick that works with PC?
Practically any fightstick works with pc. Do some research; a large part is personal preference
@@CGoody564 you got any recommendations for wireless ones?
@@evadesc Frankly, I wouldn't recommend any wireless ones at all. I am of the opinion that wired is always the way to go.
@@CGoody564 I see. but if I was set on going with a wireless, is there anything good besides this 8bitdo one?
Probably this 8bitdo, or you could put a Brook Wireless PCB in a non-wireless stick.
My god, did anyone else almost get a heart attack when a mouse cursor started moving around at 3:24?
No middle crews holes for an ls32 = no buy
Um, torx screws are nearly as standard in working on gaming devices in general as Philips head, and you find this to be a huge strike against 8bitdo lol
The bigger issue he had was the size of the holes. I know I'm not the only person who keeps a large set of bits to attach to one screwdriver, so I can imagine how much that would suck, especially due to the availability of thin tiny philips head screwdrivers. But besides that: yeah, if you're going to be modding and opening up game related anything, not having a set of torx bits would be a pointless exercise in frustration. You will run into them eventually, might as well get used to it.
Im ordering this stick along with the compatible sanwa buttons and an extra long torx set that includes the T10 bit.
I'm sorry, I don't know too much about this compatibility stuff, what's raspberry pi?. Is there a way con connect this to a ps4 or ps5?
Hi😁
Do you want to talk a bit slower my guy?
Dude the stick feels like garbage, its loose and the plastic casing from the knob to base move around when you move back and forth. You talked wayyyy to much about the button layout (residentsleeper) its an ok fightstick at best.
Terrible product. For $90 you can buy a Mayflash with Sanwa parts already inside.
You buy it for the board that is wireless and can be used on a switch... Not for its parts... 8bitdo's wireless connection is almost as good as wired... For 90$ i'd say its worth it...
The fact other things exist doesn't make this a terrible product. It's in fact a really good well made product for the price with a lot of features a Mayflash sure as hell doesn't have lol.
Also, Seimitsu is where it's at.
Eh, considering you need to plug in a controller to the mayflash, thats arguable. Id say it's a mediocre product at best, although the false advertising is absolutely terrible.
@@CGoody564 a little hyperbolic maybe, but then in East Asia, everything is super, ultra, awesome, amazing!
@@markhorsburgh76 not sure what you mean; "ultra-moddable" isn't hyperbolic; it's a blatant lie.
Is there a way (through the software maybe?) to turn the red label lights off while using it?
Not sure, you might be able to unplug a cable for the LEDs, but I haven't tried that.