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I like to leave a little more bare wire prior to the splice, about the width of the splice itself. This lessens the angle of the wires as they enter the crimp as the insulation being up close as in your example bends the extreme strands quite sharply where they enter the splice due to the diameter of the insulation. And the shrink wrap will easily cover this slight extra amount of bare copper outside the crimp.
Watching these videos is extremely validating. Many of your best practice techniques are the way I've been doing things and being told it's wrong since I was a teenager in the 90's. Others are adjustments I've made after finding failures and having a think about why they occurred.
I’m very happy to here that you prefer crimping instead of soldering. I found so many soldering videos and so little good ones about crimping. - Thanks. - Can you please produce a video „crimping vs. soldering“? This would be very interesting!
Fantastic content once again guys! Giving some new people the chance to look at what's in store in the wiring courses, as well as the gold member only webinars!👍
My personal hack for replicate the Raychem MiniSeal splices (for lab use and personal applications only) is to get the generic "Non-Insulated Buttsplices" (has to be the extruded type and not the stamped type with a slit along it) and a generic solder sleeve where you gently crush the solder with a pair of pliars and remove it from inside the heatshrink. Heatshrink with glue will also work fine, preferably see-through. Crimping the "generic buttsplice" and then add a "solder sleeve" with the solder ring removed, only having the two glue rings will essentially replicate the MiniSeal connection for 1/100 the price.
while the FAA recommends against soldering anything, they used to have an emergency procedure for solder repairs of wires. basically it involved wrapping each wire around the other 4x, soldering them, adding some sealant to the heatshrink tube, and then shrinking it. reference FAA AC65-15A for the exact procedure. disclaimer, this method is not in the AC 43.13
I wonder why? I always like to solder all my connections.... just when you think you're doing something right the internet tells you you've been doing it wrong this whole time
@@thomasbarlow4223 The wire could break from the vibrations on the end of the solder joint because it’s much stiffer. Without solder allows the wire to flex more and has no weak points.
@@thomasbarlow4223Solder isn’t wrong, but there are pros and cons. Crimping is usually faster, especially if only make one or two connections as there is no waiting time for soldering iron to heat up. Soldering can be more prone to fatigue failure, but this generally isn’t a factor with wire splices as neither end of the splice is firmly fixed. Fatigue is more of an issue with wires entering connectors that are on a rigid mount.
@@salvadorebertoloneNot necessarily, particularly on a unsupported wire splice. Fatigue failure tends to affect mainly soldered connections where one side is flexible and the other is fixed. This is generally wires soldered into connectors that are fixed to a bulkhead or device. Soldered connections on wires that are flexible on both sides will last forever. Similarly, soldered connections on two rigid components, think circuit boards, will last nearly forever. That danger is flexible to rigid connections.
In the industry I'm in (railroad maintenance) my preferred terminals of choice are insulated double crimp terminals for small gauge wires (which are 18g up to 10g). Everything else that's 8g or larger (up to 4/0 typically) gets a brazed barrel terminal. I will occasionally used a non insulated brazed barrel terminal with heat shrink on small wires, but the double crimp insulated style is more reliable, easier, and certainly faster. I've used that open barrel crimp tool on pins, but I've actually found that style of pin to be less robust than the [DMC AFM8] style crimper and pins.
Coming from being a MECP certified, installer club and pro grade motorsports wire connections are way more regulated and detailed compared to mobile electronic wire installations. How are high silver content stranded wire compared to copper stranded wire since silver is supposed to be a better electrical conductor than copper? Is the silver to corrosive? I also think about causing more resistance in a splice especially when the wire is going to the ecu where it involves a sensor signal where it’s more critical to the ecu like Motec.
A sensor signal wire isn't any more sensitive when using a MoTeC ECU vs an EMtron vs an AEM and so on. The resistance is not any concern at all unless of course you have done your splice incorrectly. Hope that helps! - Taz.
You can buy OEM wiring from your OEM. A motorsport wiring specialist in the other hand will give you a better product, but obviously you don't necessarily need that depending on your modifications and future plans - Taz.
We have a few courses here: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/? And a free lesson here: www.hpacademy.com/introduction-to-wiring/? Feel free to email if you have any questions about either, we don't always get to comments as quickly as direct messages :) - Taz.
Why do you still using imperial? Doing the calculations in metric is so much easier since all wire thicknesses are given in square mm and the crimps are as well (usually 0.5-1.5mm2(red), 1.5-2.5(blue) and 2.5-4(yellow)) and the tools have markings as well. I mean where is the point of calculating the cm, buying quality wire, use a propper stripping tool and then guess with the size with your crimping tool...
Don't worry about it. The wire and connectors you just bought at Autozone to put on your Civic, doesn't apply to this level. Now, if you want to learn to do it the right, and professional way, then watch.
He's right E=Mc2 Anyhow I'm off to rewire the Space shuttle, now that I have my wiring Degree👍Seriously thought very in-depth for the newbie so they do it right the 1st time. Good info!!
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Pleasure to get real-world advice from an expert. Thank you. Well done.
Thanks for watching and cheers for the praise, the team really appreciates that as the goal is always to help you fellas out :) - Taz.
I like to leave a little more bare wire prior to the splice, about the width of the splice itself. This lessens the angle of the wires as they enter the crimp as the insulation being up close as in your example bends the extreme strands quite sharply where they enter the splice due to the diameter of the insulation. And the shrink wrap will easily cover this slight extra amount of bare copper outside the crimp.
Watching these videos is extremely validating. Many of your best practice techniques are the way I've been doing things and being told it's wrong since I was a teenager in the 90's. Others are adjustments I've made after finding failures and having a think about why they occurred.
Thank you for sharing your experience
I’m very happy to here that you prefer crimping instead of soldering. I found so many soldering videos and so little good ones about crimping. - Thanks. - Can you please produce a video „crimping vs. soldering“? This would be very interesting!
Now they have a video on crimping vs. soldering
Fantastic content once again guys! Giving some new people the chance to look at what's in store in the wiring courses, as well as the gold member only webinars!👍
My personal hack for replicate the Raychem MiniSeal splices (for lab use and personal applications only) is to get the generic "Non-Insulated Buttsplices" (has to be the extruded type and not the stamped type with a slit along it) and a generic solder sleeve where you gently crush the solder with a pair of pliars and remove it from inside the heatshrink. Heatshrink with glue will also work fine, preferably see-through.
Crimping the "generic buttsplice" and then add a "solder sleeve" with the solder ring removed, only having the two glue rings will essentially replicate the MiniSeal connection for 1/100 the price.
Besides being transparent what's the advantage of this vs a quality thick heatshrink with integrated glue?
while the FAA recommends against soldering anything, they used to have an emergency procedure for solder repairs of wires. basically it involved wrapping each wire around the other 4x, soldering them, adding some sealant to the heatshrink tube, and then shrinking it. reference FAA AC65-15A for the exact procedure. disclaimer, this method is not in the AC 43.13
I wonder why? I always like to solder all my connections.... just when you think you're doing something right the internet tells you you've been doing it wrong this whole time
@@thomasbarlow4223 because the solder joint eventually will fatigue and fail. A mechanical connection has a significantly longer service life.
@@thomasbarlow4223 The wire could break from the vibrations on the end of the solder joint because it’s much stiffer. Without solder allows the wire to flex more and has no weak points.
@@thomasbarlow4223Solder isn’t wrong, but there are pros and cons. Crimping is usually faster, especially if only make one or two connections as there is no waiting time for soldering iron to heat up. Soldering can be more prone to fatigue failure, but this generally isn’t a factor with wire splices as neither end of the splice is firmly fixed. Fatigue is more of an issue with wires entering connectors that are on a rigid mount.
@@salvadorebertoloneNot necessarily, particularly on a unsupported wire splice. Fatigue failure tends to affect mainly soldered connections where one side is flexible and the other is fixed. This is generally wires soldered into connectors that are fixed to a bulkhead or device. Soldered connections on wires that are flexible on both sides will last forever. Similarly, soldered connections on two rigid components, think circuit boards, will last nearly forever. That danger is flexible to rigid connections.
Great video. Thank you. Especially appreciated the comments about ECU sensor earths.
In the industry I'm in (railroad maintenance) my preferred terminals of choice are insulated double crimp terminals for small gauge wires (which are 18g up to 10g). Everything else that's 8g or larger (up to 4/0 typically) gets a brazed barrel terminal. I will occasionally used a non insulated brazed barrel terminal with heat shrink on small wires, but the double crimp insulated style is more reliable, easier, and certainly faster.
I've used that open barrel crimp tool on pins, but I've actually found that style of pin to be less robust than the [DMC AFM8] style crimper and pins.
Great vid loved it, why and how answered.
Very informative. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a terrific video. Very informative and crazy helpful. Very well done.
Great video, much appreciated.
Amazing!!
Hope it helped =) - Taz.
40:38 SPIDERMAN is up to something
Jokes aside. Thanks for unintentionally linking to the question I'm scouring the internet for already a couple of hours! (wire types)
I lol'd
Coming from being a MECP certified, installer club and pro grade motorsports wire connections are way more regulated and detailed compared to mobile electronic wire installations. How are high silver content stranded wire compared to copper stranded wire since silver is supposed to be a better electrical conductor than copper? Is the silver to corrosive? I also think about causing more resistance in a splice especially when the wire is going to the ecu where it involves a sensor signal where it’s more critical to the ecu like Motec.
A sensor signal wire isn't any more sensitive when using a MoTeC ECU vs an EMtron vs an AEM and so on.
The resistance is not any concern at all unless of course you have done your splice incorrectly.
Hope that helps! - Taz.
Hi Zak
Quick question is the Crimping tool CT 3137 that you quote the same as the CT3187 I can find online? Great videos by the way - learning a lot
When the Russians made the wiring harness for my Lada Riva, they used national grid grade wire. Each wire is an inch thick.
This is awesome. Would like to use it in my project car but i can not find anything here in europe. : (
Great vids btw!!
Greetings from🇳🇱
Aliexpress eBay... my friend 😁 same problem here in France🇫🇷
@@14KiloWhisky that will be the only option. 👍🏻thnx!
What is the name of the connector that joins 4 wires together. I can't find it online
Gee It must be good to have steady hands!
Where does one buy OEM quality wiring with the stripes?
You can buy OEM wiring from your OEM. A motorsport wiring specialist in the other hand will give you a better product, but obviously you don't necessarily need that depending on your modifications and future plans - Taz.
Circular mils? The US will really do anything to not use metric won't they. As if AWG wasn't stupid enough, now it's combined by pi=4?
..Ok you got me interested, where do I sign up for this class?👍
We have a few courses here: www.hpacademy.com/hpa-wiring-starter-package/?
And a free lesson here: www.hpacademy.com/introduction-to-wiring/?
Feel free to email if you have any questions about either, we don't always get to comments as quickly as direct messages :) - Taz.
It's like dropping a bolt in the engine bay 😀😆
Soldering our of the questions these days I guess
Not entirely. It does require skill and a pretty specialized setup.
And the materials need to be absolutely clean.
Where was the part numbers for the crimps?
Check out this article: www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/crimping-on-a-budget-tools-and-materials/
Why do you still using imperial?
Doing the calculations in metric is so much easier since all wire thicknesses are given in square mm and the crimps are as well (usually 0.5-1.5mm2(red), 1.5-2.5(blue) and 2.5-4(yellow)) and the tools have markings as well.
I mean where is the point of calculating the cm, buying quality wire, use a propper stripping tool and then guess with the size with your crimping tool...
You can use either imperial or metic, your choice, same result :) - Taz.
this video will stay up for how long?
Long enough for you to watch it =) - Taz.
What's this guy building, a freaking space shuttle?!
I mean, if it has enough horsepower, it might be a space shuttle...
If a splice goes bad on a race car and the car is down on a race day it's going to cost a race team a lot of money. So it needs to be right.
gotta hate those pesky barrel splice wormholes
Quite a lot of clap trap good video
Too much talk not enough action. Sounds negative but these are v. professional videos, just too long
Did I really just watch 47 minutes on splicing wires? BLUF, right tool, right splice, dont twist. Traceability is very expensive.
47 mins to splice a wire. Hell no
Don't worry about it. The wire and connectors you just bought at Autozone to put on your Civic, doesn't apply to this level. Now, if you want to learn to do it the right, and professional way, then watch.
Your Prius wagon doesnt need boom boom speakers sir.
He's right E=Mc2 Anyhow I'm off to rewire the Space shuttle, now that I have my wiring Degree👍Seriously thought very in-depth for the newbie so they do it right the 1st time. Good info!!