Great video. Question: How do I need to solder the sensor in order to make it work inside a ring eyelet (e.g. like on the original Victron sensor cable)? The original cable is used as power cable for the Victron Smart Shunt. Do I need to connect "plus" of sensor also to ring eyelet?
Would this work with smartshunt or bmv712 if run in parallel to the power wire? As obviously these get their power from the same wire as the sensor does.
@@noobdown1997 What needs to be cabled different? I suppose plus of sensor needs to be connected to ring eyelet? Maybe you can confirm. Many thanks in advance.
@@ML-G The Smart Shunt has two inputs. One needs to be directly connected to the positive battery pole and the other needs to first connected to the sensor and then the positive battery lead. I hope this makes sense.
@@noobdown1997 Many thanks! This is was I expected it to be. However, I'm surprised in none of the reviews it's described like this. So thanks for your clarification
Also when potting stuff like that, seal one end of the tube, then put potting compound in and then insert the sensor, it will squish all around and its much less messy than trying to get it in around the wires
I have gone to your web page now to confirm which chip it is to use and on at least two separate occasions on the page you reference lm 355 and then lm 335, once its even in consecutive sentences. I also found a place on the victron forum where kevin windrem says to use a lm 355, and ive now gone and bought lm335 chips in line with your video and confirmed they dont work, im however reluctant to go buy more since the lm335's have already been a waste of money.
I bought 10 LM335, so far I have made 7 of them into sensors, each has worked first time of pluggining in. The one made in the video is still happily measuring the temperature of my garage. I've corrected the page (and double check which chips I used (I can't find a LM355 chip)). One way to check the chips is to plug them directly into the cerbo without and cabling, this should work and is easy to switch which pins are the correct ones with the correct polarity.
Like most of the comments here, I also could not get this to work. The LM335 spec says this is for measuring Kelvin not Celsius (which is the LM35), I tried every combination and either got "Reverse polarity" or "disconnected".
Yup, but then I need an MTB (and I can't make one in my garage for less) I don't need temp sensors, I wouldn't bother with them if I was going to spend £120 on 4 but making 10 for £20 with the added bonus of I get to do some making/learning. I have just made a shunt for £20 because I wasn't going to spend £80 to measure my DC loads. Depends on your motivation I guess.
Great video. Question: How do I need to solder the sensor in order to make it work inside a ring eyelet (e.g. like on the original Victron sensor cable)? The original cable is used as power cable for the Victron Smart Shunt. Do I need to connect "plus" of sensor also to ring eyelet?
Would this work with smartshunt or bmv712 if run in parallel to the power wire? As obviously these get their power from the same wire as the sensor does.
Can now confirm this doesn't work for bmv712, any ideas what could be used or how this can be altered to work for bmv712?
Have you found a solution? I have the same problem
What is the adjustment pin for?
Do you know, whether I can use the LM335 for the Victron Smart Shunt aswell?
You might be able to use the sensor, however the cabling is different as the power for the shunt comes over the sensor cabling.
@@beandiving I managed to do it. Cost me only 4 Euros! I had to cable it differently, but it works like a Charm. You still were a big help. Thanks.
@@noobdown1997 What needs to be cabled different? I suppose plus of sensor needs to be connected to ring eyelet? Maybe you can confirm. Many thanks in advance.
@@ML-G The Smart Shunt has two inputs. One needs to be directly connected to the positive battery pole and the other needs to first connected to the sensor and then the positive battery lead. I hope this makes sense.
@@noobdown1997 Many thanks! This is was I expected it to be. However, I'm surprised in none of the reviews it's described like this. So thanks for your clarification
Also when potting stuff like that, seal one end of the tube, then put potting compound in and then insert the sensor, it will squish all around and its much less messy than trying to get it in around the wires
I have followed your video and it doesn't work, the sensor just keeps saying reverse polarity? Have you got this working with the Cerbo GX?
yes im getting reverse polarity as well. i would also like to know what settings were used as far as offset and Scale
Moi aussi polaritē inversē
Same here, if I switch it it says disconnected.
Any luck?
@@SouthFloridaFishingClub I gave up and did it from the start making my own.
ruclips.net/video/RvLgENfeDKw/видео.html
I have gone to your web page now to confirm which chip it is to use and on at least two separate occasions on the page you reference lm 355 and then lm 335, once its even in consecutive sentences. I also found a place on the victron forum where kevin windrem says to use a lm 355, and ive now gone and bought lm335 chips in line with your video and confirmed they dont work, im however reluctant to go buy more since the lm335's have already been a waste of money.
I bought 10 LM335, so far I have made 7 of them into sensors, each has worked first time of pluggining in. The one made in the video is still happily measuring the temperature of my garage. I've corrected the page (and double check which chips I used (I can't find a LM355 chip)).
One way to check the chips is to plug them directly into the cerbo without and cabling, this should work and is easy to switch which pins are the correct ones with the correct polarity.
Like most of the comments here, I also could not get this to work. The LM335 spec says this is for measuring Kelvin not Celsius (which is the LM35), I tried every combination and either got "Reverse polarity" or "disconnected".
Remember to change "LM355" on the video description and on the web post with "LM335"
Thanks, updated :)
The web page lists a few occasions of both numbers still, so really not sure which to actually use since the 335 didnt work for me.
Any luck?
30 bucks was too much, but I am guessing your MTB is thousands of dollars. ROFL
Yup, but then I need an MTB (and I can't make one in my garage for less) I don't need temp sensors, I wouldn't bother with them if I was going to spend £120 on 4 but making 10 for £20 with the added bonus of I get to do some making/learning.
I have just made a shunt for £20 because I wasn't going to spend £80 to measure my DC loads.
Depends on your motivation I guess.
Deja de hacer perder dinero y tiempo a la gente. He probado con 3 LM335 y no funciona con ninguno. Retira el vídeo y no enfades a la gente.
Igualmente yo, no funciona