In a nut shell…. A homage watch that has Sapphire glass, decent movement like nh35 or higher, decent design, multi straps to swap and change appearance will cost pennies to buy and own in comparison to the big name pricey brands. At the end of the day and beginning of the day, no one really cares what you have on your wrist…what is noticeable is how well you wear the watch. People do notice when your watch adds to your gentleman appearance…and it ain’t because of the name brand.
I hope lots of people watch this and take it seriously. When I bought my Rolex, the first service was £175 after 5 years, I used to wear it surfing. Over the next twenty years the service costs trebled and I heard stories of how much a new dial would be if it leaked! My advice is NEVER take a luxury watch near water, buy a G-Shock or Citizen eco-drive dive watch and wear that instead. If a watch is only worn 3 days a month, it can go 10-15 years without servicing as long as you don't expect it to be water resistant.
Many enthusiasts think of the Seiko NH series as "workhorse" movements, but of lower grade and undesirable even. I will gladly have these movements in my watches knowing they are tough and durable and will last for years without needing service - and will still work after not being worn a long time, due to my large collection.
This video has really opened my eyes, and perhaps changed my path in collecting. I dont really want to go towards a luxury watch. Would much rather stick to San Martin, Proxima and Helm. I'm also not afraid of scratching them
That used to be the case but there are fewer independents that do this kind of work now and those that can may not be able to obtain parts. Increasingly you have to go through the AD networks and that is how things are going to be in the future. The brands exercise strict control of sales, pricing and maintenance through their ADs and you have no choice but to pay the going rate. Things may be different in some parts of the world but here in Europe this is the way things are going.
Since you have original luxury watches, can you make a direct comparison of a Pagani and the original model it imitates? Submariner? Moonwatch? OP? I would like to know how much less valuable a good hommage watch feels. If you get 80% of the original Feeling for 20% of the price it would be the best compromise between the budget you have as a middle class employee and the passion of collecting watches. I would not care if someone frowned at me in a snobbish way. If I had money like sand in the desert I would service my 100 luxury watches all day. But I haven't so I consider alternatives.
Let’s not forget if you want to get a so called “profitable watch” from the AD or boutique, you need to establish a substantial purchase history of unwanted, money losing watches first. So no matter what you end up losing a ton of money.
Even a southern german family owned company charges for a in house caliber 3 hander more than 800 Euro. Which is nearly 25% of the listed watch price. I decided to sell the watch
This is a stunningly accurate summary of the luxury market ownership experience from a (correct) life cycle perspective. The comments on vintage watches are particularly constructive/helpful. Too many budget-constrained collectors think that the bargain way into the luxury market is through vintage; as you point out: think again! The only thing missing is how the Rolex Submariner experience compares to, say, a San Martin corresponding model (a SN019?). While the decimal place is in a position, there is still some shock there too, in terms of the proportional cost of a service overhaul or the net value if you sell it. We collectors need to be equally honest about those costs too. The worst part of buying from vendor is if you can NOT depend on them for after sales support/parts too (for things like case or bracelet parts). Anyway, thanks again.
Thank you very much for your comment! You are right, in our economies servicing a $250 watch ends up costing more than the timepiece itself, it's better in that case to just change the whole movement. If you are interested I have compared a real Submariner to its San Martin counterpart: ruclips.net/video/OT7FVXlQadU/видео.html Have a great holiday season!
Watches should never be purchased as an investment especially in uncertain times same as luxury cars if you can actually afford them the servicing cost are just part of life Thanks for sharing Big Daddy Be well and God Bless You and Yours 👍
450 SFR for an original Patek watch strap? That is actually surprisingly cheap! 😂 Get a Grand Seiko 9F quartz. They don't need service for 50 years, just a new battery every 3 years. Finally, I don't feel sorry for the guys who buy a Rolex not as enthusiast, but to keep in a safe as an investment.
The modern Rolex watches required servicing every 10 years while the neo vintage is every 5 years. It isn’t that bad if you don’t bash the hell out of your watch collection as a general Rolex servicing starts at US600 at the Far East at RSC
It all depends on how much you wear it. I've had my submariner for about 5 years and I don't plan on getting it serviced any time in the distant future...
Expensive mechanical watches = vanity. Vanity costs a lot of money! That's why I only have 2 watches - Garmin smartwatch and Citizen 0100 eco-drive. Both are maintenance free for the next 10 years.
Hi! I follow you for a while. Nice content. Today I remember this video . I saw the new Longines Conquest Heritage. Beautiful... But cmon...4.300€?? This is crazy I bought my Flagship Heritage for 1300€ a couple years ago How can a Longines cost 4.3k? Luxury watches are less and less interesting
There's also the diderot effect: dissatisfaction with everything else you have. Ideally, a timepiece should be the cherry on top - keep it classy, which cannot be taken away or sold at a loss ( OK, I don't have a luxury watch ..).
If you collect watches you know the service costs you accept this accordingly. I have just spent £3600 servicing 3 of mine. Also i only service mine when theres an issue eg time losing or if i need the watch to be refurbished or if i buy a used piece then I service it. This is part of being a horologist.
For me, I do not do services for my watches unless I see a malfunction from them, and some of them take 20 years without maintenance, and there are many good watchmaker who do service for all brands PP AP rolex VC and cost you half the price of the AD,,, don't do service unless the watch stop working in my opinion
I love watches, and I want to buy them; but, it's crazy for anyone who works for al living. Thinking I'm going to get a Seiko solar diver, and be done with it.
Just buy what you like and enjoy wearing it. I’ve got a Speedmaster Reduced that I wore every day for 30 years. I had it serviced twice, the second time only because one of the chronograph buttons came loose. If you don’t want to worry about costs, buy a quartz (there several VERY nice quartz watches out there that are no less luxurious than a mechanical watch). If you want a nice mechanical watch, go for a microbrand that has a ETA or Sellita movement that can be serviced and repaired by all watch repairers. Personally, I don’t buy as an investment and have a small collection of nice watches that I wear whenever I want to but not one watch everyday. That isn’t to deliberately reduce wear and treat on the watch, but it does.
Me experience with Rolex. £1000 for a service, every 10 years. So that's equates to about 20p or 20c per day. I have 4 Rolex, so its costing me around £300 a year to own. Comparatively, that's actually quote a cheap hobby, compared to a lot of things.
If you know about service costs and have financial discipline to set aside the 4 grand then that's fine. But most people don't and the service cost might mean bad news for them
If you're buying a luxury watch and concern yourself with the cost of service too much, you're not in the position to own one, or you shouldn't buy one at all. Don't buy watches you can't afford to service. Spending anywhere from $500 to $2k to get my luxury watches serviced isn't bothersome to me. I do agree perceiving watches as investments is foolish. There's a short list of watches that will appreciate in value.
Yes, my point exactly, but some people who are interested in watches don't know they need to be serviced, or how much it will cost, and this video is for them
@@Horologique How can they not know? They are intrinsically NOT interested in watches, they are interested in owning a piece of bling to show off with.
Rolex Sport models safe you can wear your sub 20 years get all your money back even after service free watch for 20 years sounds like a good deal to me
That's why smart watch are the best most using apple watch and android watch when i go out. Then i only use g-shock for work no need to service and good for the bucket. In the future new generation losing interest with watch i love watch but i start to sell mine and stop buying it. If this higher brand watch maker don't do something they end up gg one day.
People who have to do honest work for their money are not the customers' luxury brands target for, end of story. You are right to inform about the true cost of ownership. I am so lucky not to own these mechanical time pieces. My most expensive watch is a Solar quartz diver from Seiko. Not a fancy show piece, but it's very nice and relatively cheap to own. 😊
Not a problem for me, I wouldn't own one. If I did I wouldn't have it serviced. Its not like it will stop running, or the check engine light would come on and stop you from getting a safety sticker? Will it to your children and they can get it serviced when it stops.
Great video. I know that my San Martin is a much better value that an actual Rolex Submariner and that my Tisell is a much better value than a Rolex Explorer. But I still have the hope that one day I will be able to afford an Explorer and all the higher costs that come with it.
In a nut shell….
A homage watch that has Sapphire glass, decent movement like nh35 or higher, decent design, multi straps to swap and change appearance will cost pennies to buy and own in comparison to the big name pricey brands.
At the end of the day and beginning of the day, no one really cares what you have on your wrist…what is noticeable is how well you wear the watch. People do notice when your watch adds to your gentleman appearance…and it ain’t because of the name brand.
Very well said 👍
I hope lots of people watch this and take it seriously. When I bought my Rolex, the first service was £175 after 5 years, I used to wear it surfing. Over the next twenty years the service costs trebled and I heard stories of how much a new dial would be if it leaked! My advice is NEVER take a luxury watch near water, buy a G-Shock or Citizen eco-drive dive watch and wear that instead. If a watch is only worn 3 days a month, it can go 10-15 years without servicing as long as you don't expect it to be water resistant.
Not servicing a luxury time piece is not an option if you ever want to sell it again.
I have a Seiko 5 from 1995 it still runs fine without service 😂
That's why Seiko is great 👍
Many enthusiasts think of the Seiko NH series as "workhorse" movements, but of lower grade and undesirable even. I will gladly have these movements in my watches knowing they are tough and durable and will last for years without needing service - and will still work after not being worn a long time, due to my large collection.
@@96kyh yes totally, the most work efficient movement. Once it stops working (if ever) you can just swap it for little money
This video has really opened my eyes, and perhaps changed my path in collecting. I dont really want to go towards a luxury watch. Would much rather stick to San Martin, Proxima and Helm. I'm also not afraid of scratching them
Maybe it’s just me but I service every 10-15 years and not official service so you can save BIG and easily afford owning a decent collection.
That used to be the case but there are fewer independents that do this kind of work now and those that can may not be able to obtain parts. Increasingly you have to go through the AD networks and that is how things are going to be in the future. The brands exercise strict control of sales, pricing and maintenance through their ADs and you have no choice but to pay the going rate. Things may be different in some parts of the world but here in Europe this is the way things are going.
Since you have original luxury watches, can you make a direct comparison of a Pagani and the original model it imitates? Submariner? Moonwatch? OP?
I would like to know how much less valuable a good hommage watch feels. If you get 80% of the original Feeling for 20% of the price it would be the best compromise between the budget you have as a middle class employee and the passion of collecting watches.
I would not care if someone frowned at me in a snobbish way. If I had money like sand in the desert I would service my 100 luxury watches all day. But I haven't so I consider alternatives.
Let’s not forget if you want to get a so called “profitable watch” from the AD or boutique, you need to establish a substantial purchase history of unwanted, money losing watches first. So no matter what you end up losing a ton of money.
Totally, I didn't mention that you are right!
Even a southern german family owned company charges for a in house caliber 3 hander more than 800 Euro. Which is nearly 25% of the listed watch price. I decided to sell the watch
What is the brand of the watch?
This is a stunningly accurate summary of the luxury market ownership experience from a (correct) life cycle perspective. The comments on vintage watches are particularly constructive/helpful. Too many budget-constrained collectors think that the bargain way into the luxury market is through vintage; as you point out: think again!
The only thing missing is how the Rolex Submariner experience compares to, say, a San Martin corresponding model (a SN019?). While the decimal place is in a position, there is still some shock there too, in terms of the proportional cost of a service overhaul or the net value if you sell it. We collectors need to be equally honest about those costs too.
The worst part of buying from vendor is if you can NOT depend on them for after sales support/parts too (for things like case or bracelet parts).
Anyway, thanks again.
Thank you very much for your comment! You are right, in our economies servicing a $250 watch ends up costing more than the timepiece itself, it's better in that case to just change the whole movement.
If you are interested I have compared a real Submariner to its San Martin counterpart: ruclips.net/video/OT7FVXlQadU/видео.html
Have a great holiday season!
Watches should never be purchased as an investment especially in uncertain times same as luxury cars if you can actually afford them the servicing cost are just part of life Thanks for sharing Big Daddy Be well and God Bless You and Yours 👍
Thank you so much my friend!
450 SFR for an original Patek watch strap? That is actually surprisingly cheap! 😂 Get a Grand Seiko 9F quartz. They don't need service for 50 years, just a new battery every 3 years. Finally, I don't feel sorry for the guys who buy a Rolex not as enthusiast, but to keep in a safe as an investment.
Thanks a bunch. Very informative. I totally agree.
The modern Rolex watches required servicing every 10 years while the neo vintage is every 5 years. It isn’t that bad if you don’t bash the hell out of your watch collection as a general Rolex servicing starts at US600 at the Far East at RSC
Other added costs that might be worth considering are insurance, and the safe to keep the watches in!?
If you need to insure your watch you cannot afford it, so it is stupid to buy one in the first place
I just buy watches because I like them, not for an investment. If I want to make an investment, I do it with Vanguard.
Excellent video. Very valuable for wanna be collectors
Thank you so much 👍
Great video, thanks.
It all depends on how much you wear it. I've had my submariner for about 5 years and I don't plan on getting it serviced any time in the distant future...
Expensive mechanical watches = vanity. Vanity costs a lot of money! That's why I only have 2 watches - Garmin smartwatch and Citizen 0100 eco-drive. Both are maintenance free for the next 10 years.
Hi! I follow you for a while. Nice content.
Today I remember this video .
I saw the new Longines Conquest Heritage.
Beautiful...
But cmon...4.300€??
This is crazy
I bought my Flagship Heritage for 1300€ a couple years ago
How can a Longines cost 4.3k?
Luxury watches are less and less interesting
Thank you very much for the support. I totally agree, brands have gone crazy!
Traditionally a luxury watch was owned as a single watch or with one daily cheaper watch.
The advised Rolex service interval is 10 years, not 5.
I'm not only talking about Rolex but all luxury manufacturers in general. Amd that applies only to modern Rolex since 3 or 4 years ago
There's also the diderot effect: dissatisfaction with everything else you have.
Ideally, a timepiece should be the cherry on top - keep it classy, which cannot be taken away or sold at a loss ( OK, I don't have a luxury watch ..).
If you collect watches you know the service costs you accept this accordingly. I have just spent £3600 servicing 3 of mine. Also i only service mine when theres an issue eg time losing or if i need the watch to be refurbished or if i buy a used piece then I service it. This is part of being a horologist.
Thanks Olivier! Very insightful as always
Thank you 😁
For me, I do not do services for my watches unless I see a malfunction from them, and some of them take 20 years without maintenance, and there are many good watchmaker who do service for all brands PP AP rolex VC and cost you half the price of the AD,,, don't do service unless the watch stop working in my opinion
I love watches, and I want to buy them; but, it's crazy for anyone who works for al living. Thinking I'm going to get a Seiko solar diver, and be done with it.
Just buy what you like and enjoy wearing it. I’ve got a Speedmaster Reduced that I wore every day for 30 years. I had it serviced twice, the second time only because one of the chronograph buttons came loose. If you don’t want to worry about costs, buy a quartz (there several VERY nice quartz watches out there that are no less luxurious than a mechanical watch).
If you want a nice mechanical watch, go for a microbrand that has a ETA or Sellita movement that can be serviced and repaired by all watch repairers. Personally, I don’t buy as an investment and have a small collection of nice watches that I wear whenever I want to but not one watch everyday. That isn’t to deliberately reduce wear and treat on the watch, but it does.
Yes, that's very sensible advice! This video is a reaction on all of these price raises on MSRP and maintenance costs
Me experience with Rolex. £1000 for a service, every 10 years. So that's equates to about 20p or 20c per day. I have 4 Rolex, so its costing me around £300 a year to own. Comparatively, that's actually quote a cheap hobby, compared to a lot of things.
If you know about service costs and have financial discipline to set aside the 4 grand then that's fine. But most people don't and the service cost might mean bad news for them
If you're buying a luxury watch and concern yourself with the cost of service too much, you're not in the position to own one, or you shouldn't buy one at all. Don't buy watches you can't afford to service. Spending anywhere from $500 to $2k to get my luxury watches serviced isn't bothersome to me. I do agree perceiving watches as investments is foolish. There's a short list of watches that will appreciate in value.
Yes, my point exactly, but some people who are interested in watches don't know they need to be serviced, or how much it will cost, and this video is for them
@@Horologique How can they not know? They are intrinsically NOT interested in watches, they are interested in owning a piece of bling to show off with.
@@joostkiefte7683 yes totally, that's most of the clientèle buying luxury watches nowadays (especially some specific brands)
Rolex Sport models safe you can wear your sub 20 years get all your money back even after service free watch for 20 years sounds like a good deal to me
Good time to get into watch making as a second career!
That's why smart watch are the best most using apple watch and android watch when i go out. Then i only use g-shock for work no need to service and good for the bucket. In the future new generation losing interest with watch i love watch but i start to sell mine and stop buying it. If this higher brand watch maker don't do something they end up gg one day.
People who have to do honest work for their money are not the customers' luxury brands target for, end of story. You are right to inform about the true cost of ownership. I am so lucky not to own these mechanical time pieces. My most expensive watch is a Solar quartz diver from Seiko. Not a fancy show piece, but it's very nice and relatively cheap to own. 😊
I have a rolex sub from 1984. it still runs fine without service +4 seconds per day
Wonderful! What model is it?
@@Horologique A ROLEX SUBMARINER Ref:5513
@@johncarter6238 that's an absolute beauty 👍
Not a problem for me, I wouldn't own one. If I did I wouldn't have it serviced. Its not like it will stop running, or the check engine light would come on and stop you from getting a safety sticker? Will it to your children and they can get it serviced when it stops.
It also cost's you money to insure them!
Yes, that too 😭
If you're preoccupied with the monetary value of your watches, then you shouldn't be collecting.
Watches are not investments !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Exactly the point I'm trying to prove!
Great video. I know that my San Martin is a much better value that an actual Rolex Submariner and that my Tisell is a much better value than a Rolex Explorer. But I still have the hope that one day I will be able to afford an Explorer and all the higher costs that come with it.
I think Steinhart has the best price/quality ratio. between 500 and 1000 max you can buy a rolex killer
@@johncarter6238I think the Steinhart will be next. 😁
ok I'm going to buy one from China... that's the best for my wallet 😂
🤣