Pd. I guess the biggest photo trick here is that of how he looks in the thumbnail of this video in comparison of what he looks like in the actual video! Rocking that quarantine look!
Wow, I loved this tutorial. I watched whilst editing a beach shot of mine that I've liked for a while but never been able to REALLY make it shine. This was soooooo useful. Thank you.
A masterly performance Matt which combined the great transmission of essential knowledge with great visuals and superb language. Fascinating. So many thanks.
Great tutorial Matt, very informative. I'd be keen to see one of your more advanced edits if you're looking for some content ideas. All the best from Scotland.
Well, I was good until 5:04 when you commented "we'll just pop the curves adjustment layer inside a group create a mask on that group..." - I have yet to find a tutorial that explains, for us new users, simply and clearly, how these protocols work. If you can provide a tutorial, or a link, in that direction that would make this tutorial, and the program itself, more relatable.
First of all, thank you for sharing your knowledge with the affinity community :) I'm a complete beginner in Affinity and I have a question about the workflow at 1:52. Why do you use the inpainting brush in combination with a pixel layer? Without a pixel layer the "blemishes" would be removed as well. Is it about being able to undo single changes? If so, how could you do that (without jumping back in the protocol of affinity). So how can you bring back the original part of the picture from the pixel layer back to the background ? TIA
Thank you. It would have been helpful to demonstrate the Blend method, that you skipped for us newbies. Hard to compare results or simplest method, without demonstrating effect.
Nice. However, most of us start our editing in the Develop persona. I would´ve liked to see how much work Matt does in the Develop persona to take advantage of its raw file, before moving on to the Photo persona.
This is something I was hoping for as well, mainly because there are so many contradicting each other weather to do most work in Develop or in Photo. FWIW, from what I understand and what I do myself is get the basic edits "correct" (as it comes down to your taste), specifically white balance and exposure, then do your creative work & enhancing in Photo. I use Nik Collection as well for final sharpening depending on my intended use, print or display on the web. Recently I purchased DxO Photlab 3 Elite, so my current workflow has somewhat changed due to PhotoLab being an incredibly powerful RAW processor, I like it a lot better than Affinity Develop/RAW processor....sorry for the off topic rambling :)
After,or right before, you merge visible, it would help if you relabeled the layers instead of leaving the wore "Pixel". Otherwise, a wonderful, clear turtorial!
Dense and without any BS! 13 minutes which will take me days to digest ;) Your vignetting is among the better. I first saw it used by Jim Welninsky (with Photoshop). But my favorite is this one here on RUclips, /watch?v=m3gxAXQdKSM Thank you for an excellent learning session!
Question from a rookie Affinity Photo user: When I open my RAW files, I get a message saying that the file is being developed. This process seems to take forever. What can I do, if anything, to speed it up?
The Affinity advisor seems to have sent you to a BUG forum. In my experience clicking on the develop process is very quick on my New Mac and quite a bit slower on my old PC. So while I guess it depends on the size of the RAW file and what processes you have applied before clicking the develop button , it looks like the spec of your system night be a factor.
Me again. Thank you, @Affinity and @Gary Davies. And, Gary, I think you have helped me pinpoint the problem. Which is that I don't have enough RAM on my computer. If I'm processing big files through Affinity Photo, which I suspect is a memory-intensive operation, I'll need more RAM.
@@martharetallick204 some other options would be to shutdown other processes or programs not required when doing editing. Additional RAM is generally a good idea but that depends a bit oh how much you have. Most of the time 16 GB will be sufficient. If you are doing digital imaging as a business for clients, something else to be considered is to use a totally offline computer built to specs that will do all you will need. Don't tie the editing computer to any other computer and make sure you do triple BU's of files and keep one in a Safe and one off premises. Even if only doing images for fun having multiple BU's is important as laments of lost images is one of the most common things to be heard by tech rooms etc.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
I would love to see more videos like these! I feel like I learned so much in just 15 minutes!
Best Orton process I've seen. And the technique for adding atmospheric glow was is so simple, yet effective.
I thoroughly enjoyed this class. Simple (because of the massive help by Matt) and straight to the point. Thank you, Mr. Donovan.
Pd. I guess the biggest photo trick here is that of how he looks in the thumbnail of this video in comparison of what he looks like in the actual video! Rocking that quarantine look!
Wow, I loved this tutorial. I watched whilst editing a beach shot of mine that I've liked for a while but never been able to REALLY make it shine. This was soooooo useful. Thank you.
Great vid. Thanks. Way to fast for my old very simple editing self. Maybe I'll download the image & try to follow along. Thank you.
A masterly performance Matt which combined the great transmission of essential knowledge with great visuals and superb language. Fascinating. So many thanks.
Good stuff... I love it when photographers are unafraid to share their "secrets"
Superior tips and techniques, well done⭐️👍👏
Great tutorial Matt, very informative. I'd be keen to see one of your more advanced edits if you're looking for some content ideas. All the best from Scotland.
Well, I was good until 5:04 when you commented "we'll just pop the curves adjustment layer inside a group create a mask on that group..." - I have yet to find a tutorial that explains, for us new users, simply and clearly, how these protocols work. If you can provide a tutorial, or a link, in that direction that would make this tutorial, and the program itself, more relatable.
First of all, thank you for sharing your knowledge with the affinity community :)
I'm a complete beginner in Affinity and I have a question about the workflow at 1:52. Why do you use the inpainting brush in combination with a pixel layer?
Without a pixel layer the "blemishes" would be removed as well. Is it about being able to undo single changes? If so, how could you do that (without jumping back in the protocol of affinity). So how can you bring back the original part of the picture from the pixel layer back to the background ?
TIA
Found it :D To undo certain changes you can use the "Erase brush tool"^^ it's also on the left Sidebar and looks like a pencil.
@@maikhermanns5457 thanks for sharing!
Thank you. It would have been helpful to demonstrate the Blend method, that you skipped for us newbies. Hard to compare results or simplest method, without demonstrating effect.
Brilliant ! About four tools there I have never used and will now be all over them.
Thank you so much, always so much to learn, but step by step. I really appreciate all these sessions.
you rock man! thanks!
Nice. However, most of us start our editing in the Develop persona. I would´ve liked to see how much work Matt does in the Develop persona to take advantage of its raw file, before moving on to the Photo persona.
This is something I was hoping for as well, mainly because there are so many contradicting each other weather to do most work in Develop or in Photo. FWIW, from what I understand and what I do myself is get the basic edits "correct" (as it comes down to your taste), specifically white balance and exposure, then do your creative work & enhancing in Photo.
I use Nik Collection as well for final sharpening depending on my intended use, print or display on the web.
Recently I purchased DxO Photlab 3 Elite, so my current workflow has somewhat changed due to PhotoLab being an incredibly powerful RAW processor, I like it a lot better than Affinity Develop/RAW processor....sorry for the off topic rambling :)
Excellent video.
Hi Matt is that first photo Bombo just before Kiama NSW?
After,or right before, you merge visible, it would help if you relabeled the layers instead of leaving the wore "Pixel". Otherwise, a wonderful, clear turtorial!
Very informative, cheers
Any tips on focus and exposure stacking images?
Some brilliant tips there, thank you!
Excellent!
Welcome more landscapes processed
Wow, I have so much to learn before I could even start down this path. :(
I'm in the same group as you.
Really excellent tutorial, thank you for that!
what does screen layer do ?
Very informative....thank you!
Great stuff, very informative! Cheers.
Hello, what is the keyboard shortcut for invert selection vignetting? thanks for the reply. M
Thank you for sharing excellent
This is great!
Thanks a lot
Dense and without any BS! 13 minutes which will take me days to digest ;) Your vignetting is among the better. I first saw it used by Jim Welninsky (with Photoshop). But my favorite is this one here on RUclips, /watch?v=m3gxAXQdKSM Thank you for an excellent learning session!
That was amazing but calling it simple Pffff Lol thats funny. Iam very new to editing and this was a eye opener. Thank you amazing stuff.
Excellent tutorial, although it would have been nice if the video was clearer, so the very basic user could read the screen text. :)
Question from a rookie Affinity Photo user: When I open my RAW files, I get a message saying that the file is being developed. This process seems to take forever. What can I do, if anything, to speed it up?
You could best advance this by going to affin.co/forumBM. Affinity support will help you.
The Affinity advisor seems to have sent you to a BUG forum. In my experience clicking on the develop process is very quick on my New Mac and quite a bit slower on my old PC. So while I guess it depends on the size of the RAW file and what processes you have applied before clicking the develop button , it looks like the spec of your system night be a factor.
Me again. Thank you, @Affinity and @Gary Davies. And, Gary, I think you have helped me pinpoint the problem. Which is that I don't have enough RAM on my computer. If I'm processing big files through Affinity Photo, which I suspect is a memory-intensive operation, I'll need more RAM.
@@martharetallick204 Yes that sounds like it is the case. Thanks for the response and good luck. :-)
@@martharetallick204 some other options would be to shutdown other processes or programs not required when doing editing. Additional RAM is generally a good idea but that depends a bit oh how much you have. Most of the time 16 GB will be sufficient. If you are doing digital imaging as a business for clients, something else to be considered is to use a totally offline computer built to specs that will do all you will need. Don't tie the editing computer to any other computer and make sure you do triple BU's of files and keep one in a Safe and one off premises. Even if only doing images for fun having multiple BU's is important as laments of lost images is one of the most common things to be heard by tech rooms etc.
Very basic.