Jigs 101: Leg Jig for batching (How to make legs for cornhole boards)
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- *updates* (“oopsy”)
-I used “elevator bolts NOT “carriage” bolts as stops on the jig
*all supplies used in our videos can be found at www.cornholecollective.com/supplies*
Getting legs for cornhole boards right, is potentially one of the most challenging aspects that not only frustrates builders, but is typically a challenge that awaits them on each and every set they build.
Making legs "the hard way" is something we all have to do. But what if we only had to do it once? In this video, I discuss the "Science" behind legs, which measurements are important, and give you my approach to making legs in large batches that are 100% independent of my boards (meaning my legs fit ALL the boards I make).
pro touch, rounding over the edges of the jig. extras make the difference. thanks for sharing so much of your experience. I'll never build to sell, so no worries about me stealing business. but for the 4-5 sets I'll probably make in my lifetime this is invaluable.
Thank you Rob! It’s my pleasure. There can be so much frustration in the initial stages of building, and if we can ease that so some may tackle the next challenges instead, then we can all push the envelope together. I’m not worried about anyone stealing business. I believe we’re all competing against the idea that amazon or a big box store is an acceptable alternative to “craftsmanship”. I love working with those who can help elevate expectations. I’ve worked with numerous local builders, the most recent only 5 miles away, and have yet to feel a toe of mine stepped on. It’s fun growing the craft, getting to know other builders, and finding inspiration in their work. Good luck stopping at 4 or 5 when your friends see what you’ve made. Orders affiliated with my friends, in one way or another, account for a very healthy percentage of my total sets built. We’re so glad that you’re enjoying our videos! We appreciate your support... welcome to the collective Rob!
9:22 🎤 drop!! What just happened. Genius! Nice work buddy. Its all about the jigs.
Haha thank you! They are now available on cornholecollective.com/store 👍
Thank you for making this video. I just learned a lot.
I’m glad it was helpful… thanks for watching!!
I love the jig and the equipment setup. I build mine out back on a picnic table lol. Folding feet are a challenge to cut the rounded ends bc I have a jigsaw that runs high speed. These are some really nice machined sets🤘
Building my first set of boards for a wedding gift to my daughter. I have looked at quite a few videos of different ways to build. I decided on using 3/4” Baltic birch for all of it. Trying to cut time I designed the legs and cut them with a CNC. Takes about 3 minutes for for a set of 4 legs. I might could start building these as a kit to put together.
Very nice. Excited to see what you make 👌
Total Noob here, waiting on a few more tools to arrive to get started on my jigs and first build. Any advice on that is greatly appreciated! I apologize ahead of time as I might get a little long winded here and hope its not an inconvenience. I have learned a lot and have been able to come up with a solid game plan with the great time and effort of the Collective on RUclips and FB group. For that I am very grateful, there is a lot of skilled craftsman in there and I hope one day to be among those and share the experiences and knowledge I gain along the way. With all that being said I am going the printing stencils and doing stains, baby wipe, remask, and reverse poly methods on my tops (Not all at once of course). I see that you don't like to use Baltic Birch for your tops as it would take away from the beauty of the grains with those methods. I called a local lumber yard and sourced some Baltic Birch and Domestic Birch. I was lost in the woods when trying to figure how many ply, B2, BB, AA, for quality and then they threw out if I wanted rotary cut or plain sliced. To not make this longer than it already is, What do you recommend from Baltic? (if I stick to just frames so I figure visual quality isn't as important) and Lastly what would you recommend for the Domestic Birch tops? Thank you in advance as I see you make a great effort to reply to everyone here which we can all thank you for your due diligence!
For Baltic I prefer 3B (or B/BB. Same thing just written different) this will be good enough for tops. 4B (or BB/BB) is good enough if doing frames only, and may occasionally get lucky enough for tops to come from it. For domestic I was just using a “shop graded domestic birch 3/4” LVC. I hope this is helpful, and wish you luck!!
Very clever, especially being able to accurately drill both the leg and the side holes on the same jig.
I’m thinking I might add a toggle clamp to hold the pieces in place while I drill…
Clever idea! I probably made this look harder than it is since I was also reaching around a tripod 😂. I’d love to see your take if you get that idea going! Shoot me a message on IG (@burlybags) with a photo. Love seeing more ideas on further improvements to a process
Super slick!
Thank you so much! I hope to do a new one sometime soon with an update and “legs the hard way” process
I love this and the fact you guys at cornhole collective share your knowledge. Thank you
Thank you so much Happy!!! We’re having a blast doing this and hope to transition our hobby of building boards to making more of these instructional videos to help with the needless initial learning curves that we are all facing individually. We’re stoked you’re enjoying the videos and appreciate you letting us know! We love hearing feedback, so we can find out what people enjoy or ways we can be better. Welcome to the collective!!
"For all you trolls..." HAHAHAHAHA
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing some of your secrets to the rest of us noobs!
Hahaha I could feel it while I was shooting “someone is going to knock me down a peg or two on this one” Hahahah had to try and strike first 😜 I’ve got to say I’m enjoying all the feedback from the collective! We’re having a blast making these videos and get so excited each time we get to share a new one! We really appreciate all of your support!!
As an added measure you can router a small collection rabbit behind the faces of the bolts. Just an idea!
I’m not sure I follow, but am always interested in new ideas... do you mean like a shallow hole cut with forstner bit for the head of the bolt to set into?
I’ve made a wooden rail jig. I like your idea better. Thank you.
Idea for drill press...drill a hole in the side of your jig and attach to dust collection.
Nice idea! That’s my reason for the bolts (so the dust won’t shift leg placement) but incorporated dust collection would definitely be a nice feature
Can you do a video about the cutter machine and how you design your work?
We’re considering how to do a value added video about that, however with different models and software it gets less productive pretty quick. Then factor in computer platforms and design software and it would be a rather niched down topic, however we do have some ideas rolling around to do the best we can on one in the near future 🤞
This is awesome. Marking the legs is my least favorite part. And I spend way to much time trying to get them right
For me too. I struggled so much with my first that I devoted my next efforts to ensuring I never had to do it again haha. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Nice video. How did you cut the recessed area for the leg brace? In tried a dodo stack and it chips the plywood in the back
Thank you so much!! I do a stack of legs and have a piece of scrap to sacrifice on the back for the tear out 👌
So maybe this is a stupid question.. but couldn't you just make 1 leg.. then just place it on a board, draw the cut, drill the hole.. rinse/repeat? The jig is cool.. but it seems like it's more work than just what I said. The bandsaw jig is slick though.. I just spent 2 hours use a jigsaw and sanding to try to get my 4 legs to open/close.. sucked ass. However this is the only one I have made.. but if I were to make a lot would absolutely need a repeatable setup.
Not a stupid question at all. The precision required to be able to make legs independently of the boards would require a jig of some sort. That would work in theory, however if you stacked two boards, measured dead center and drilled a hole, then flipped one board and put a bolt through the two holes they would no longer be flush. The bit will drift a little, and the flipping of the board compounds this error. This is a distinct possibility when making legs independently…. Some of the boards will be flipped. But this jig is aimed towards builders who plan to continue building. Like you said, you spent two hours on the jig saw and sander… I spent a little longer than that devising, constricting and dialing in my bandsaw jig, but now between cutting the legs, drilling the holes and rounding the ends, I have about 1 minute invested in each leg. For me, the investment has paid in dividends, where as for a builder who’s only building a couple, the hard slow way is likely the most ideal.
I use 3/4 Russian birch 13 ply. It is no way close to any plywood the big box stores sell. Extremely heavy.
I totally agree Rick! Russian (Baltic) birch is amazing to build with. Almost the same as working with solid wood 👌
@@cornholecollective7116 Just curious what do you pay for the 13 ply?
can you link me to the leg rounding jig video that you mentioned at 9:35. thanks!
Unfortunately I never made one on RUclips but did add it in our Facebook group. Unfortunately it’s private so links to that don’t work unless you join the group. If you do, I can link you or your can search within the group for “#legJig”. I’m sorry about that
What’s your drill hole measurements? From top down and side in.
was also wondering how you notch the legs to accept the cross members? Did I miss that?
I notch my legs using a dado stack on my table saw. I actually clamp a big stack of them together using two clamps, (one on each end of leg) and run through with the toes against the fence. If you attempt this, please take care to place the clamps outside of the cutting area..... or you may have a bad time 😳
How do you cut the notch in the legs for the cross brace? Do you use a jig?
I LOVE jigs, but oddly this is one area where I don’t really use one. I use a dado stack on my table saw and clamp a bit stack of legs together and just run them through the dado against my fence... works really well 👌. Hit us up in our new “cornhole collective” facebook group and I’d be happy to share a photo, and we had another builder share a video of it 👍
Are the leg pieces before you cut them 12 inches in length
I've seen some wood workers use the method of gluing two pieces of wood together and follow up with a finish nailer to keep the pieces "clamped" in place while the glue dries. Once together, the woodworker will use screws as well. What circumstance is this practical and what circumstance is it not practical? I assumed glue was the only thing you needed if clamped properly and time permitted.
Hi Rustin, I’m not sure I followed that question? I don’t glue anything in my leg building process. I also do not use brad nails personally for anything, however on my frame assembly I use glue in the joints as I use kreg screws to assemble them. I have found that my back frame brace is far more sturdy when pressure is put on the boards with the legs open, than when I don’t use glue. Personally I believe it is very necessary for the frame, but I don’t glue on my top. I have not run into, nor can I imagine a situation where that kind of strength is necessary... but I have installed my top in the opposite direction as my frame and needed to remove and rotate. And then finally, to answer your glue only questioned I’m just not personally willing to invest that heavily on clamps, and though the idea seems sound, I prefer just doing screws in case the outer veneer decides to just flake off with the glue keeping it attached to the other piece. The screws make me feel warm and fuzzy with safety haha. Hope I kind of answered my approach to those situations?
@@cornholecollective7116 Yes. Thank you for your time and the reply.
No problem at all! Good luck with your build 👍
great!
did you ever make a video explaining how you made the band saw jig for rounding the top end of the legs? Just wondering.
Hey mike! I have not yet covered the bandsaw jig, but hope to eventually. For now I can tell you it’s all in the thickness of the bandsaw blade (google “bandsaw radius chart”) to help figure out if yours will work, And the location of the bolt on the jig’s leg carrier. You’d want that bolt centered on your bandsaw blade, and 1/2” of the width of your leg away. Then when you stack your leg on top of this leg carrier pivot thing, ensure you’re leg hole will be shifted about 1/2” in front of the blade, before it pivots. I hope that makes sense. Good luck
@@cornholecollective7116 OK, I think I figured out this bandsaw jig and I think it is going to work o.k. I realize every bandsaw is probably different so making a video on this probably isn't simple. But one thing I hope you can tell me is this.....After you cut the rounded end on your legs using this jig, is your leg the exact right length at that point? You have already cut the correct angle on the lower end of the leg with your other jig and you mentioned in that video that you left the leg a bit long so that you could cut the rounded end on the upper end of the leg. So if the leg is the exact length after you cut the rounded end on it, how to you know what that length is going to be after the round is cut? I probably am not making that very clear but hopefully you get the basic point of my question. I mean your jig that you use to cut the hole in the leg and in the frame is very precise, etc. But then after that you put the leg in the band saw jig and cut the ruounded end so there must be some exact placement of the band saw jig in relation to the lower end of the leg. I dunno.....just can't quite wrap my old head around this. Thanks again. Great stuff!
maybe the only thing that matters is the distance from the 1/4" hole to the bottom of the leg so the arc at the top is not completely critical?
Just two more questions and I will stop bothering you about this bandsaw jig. It looks like you made the "pin" that the leg pivots on from a carriage bolt or something that you cut off after you screwed it into the carriage from the bottom. And the other question is what kind of lock nut, washer, etc did you use to attach the carriage to the piece of plywood underneath? Seems like that would want to "work loose" after multiple turns that it has to undergo while making the arcs on the legs. Thanks again and I won't ask any more questions about this lol!!!
Great video! Do you have a jig or some slick way of cutting the notches in the legs for the cross brace?
Thank you so much! No jig but a super easy method. I stack about 20-30 legs at a time, with two bar clamps one on toe and one at other end of leg. And do a dado on my table saw. The stack is nice and ridgid and I slide it with the toes on the fence. Does that make sense?
@@cornholecollective7116 that's so simple it's genius. I was wondering the same thing. Great idea! Ive made probably 20 sets and have been doing legs the hard way this whole time. Starting to get sick of it. Im going with that jig and lock stop. With that new set angle, how did you find where the hole on the frame goes?
How did you figure out the 22 1/2 degree angle? I usually put a 1/2" spacer between the back frame and the leg, but I don't know that the angle on the leg equals 22 1/2"
Mine was actually blind luck early on... and when I realized it matched a click stop on my miter... and then when I realized the benefits I never let that angle change.
usually you put the legs on the board, lift the board the 12 inches and mark the legs...he kinda did it the other way around...using a fixed, hard stop on his mitre saw, then figuring where to put the hole thru the side...using the fixed hard stop on the mitre saw removes the guess work out of the equation...
where can I purchase the same high quality birch plywood you use for your boards.
Hey Gene and Barbara... this is Baltic birch and will be found at your lumber yard. It comes in a 5x5 (don’t worry about the 4x8... hope to have a video soon to explain why) and is amazing to build with! Hope that helps
I live in SE Massachusetts and baltic birch was very difficult to find for me. Of course the big box stores don't have it. Most of the smaller lumber yards don't carry it. One was willing to order it for me at $150 per 4x8 sheet (gulp). Just by calling around, I found a small lumber yard that caters to cabinet makers. They have 5x5 sheets in sizes from 1/8" up to 1". The 3/4" is $45/sheet, which I thought was pretty good. So my point is to not depend on google to find it. You'll have to do some old fashioned phone calling to find a place.
Why do use plywood for the legs instead of 2x4? I feel like you would need to double up the plywood for the legs. Do you find the plywood to be more durable?
I totally get the concern, but I’m using Baltic birch, which is an incredible and strong ply. Very different than the birch you may see at Home Depot or Lowe’s. I’ve never been an advocate for 2x4 so I can’t compare experiences but I can make a pretty spectacular leg with my Baltic, and am quite pleased with the results. I wouldn’t try it with another ply personally though, as the layers are not the same as these. Hope that makes sense, a this is not a wood you’d see in a big box store
@@cornholecollective7116bouncing boards and durability are my primary concern. I use birch as well, but don't know if it is domestic or baltic. If birch ever costs more than maple, then I would probably switch to maple.
My first set was built out of pine plywood and it took so much TLC to get them to look and feel right that I realized I was wasting time.... and pine is much heavier.
So this is a common area of confusion and it kind of has a long answer. But short story longer (by adding a somewhat quick answer before a longer one) you will know I’d you’re getting Baltic because it’s harder to get, and will blow your mind 😜. At a big box store like Home Depot, “birch” basically consists of two thin sheets of veneer (imported from Costa Rica or another country) and is filled with layers of cheap soft woods and such as pine, mdf, and unfortunately, air (ie voids). I’m not knocking it, we have to start with it usually, but get to a lumber yard, you can find better quality (such as domestic birch shop grade) that costs about the same, but has thicker veneer and better layers. Baltic birch is made of birch from the Baltics (Russia, Finland,etc). It is made entirely of Baltic birch veneer (which means each layer responds the same to temp and humidity changes) and is layers in alternating directions for superior strength and density (it weighs a ton). It is typically found in a 5x5 because the us has to be different and the rest of the world enjoys their 1525mmx1525mm (5x5) sheets of domestic birch because it’s basically the international standard for custom kitchens. This is why it will usually be significantly less expensive per square foot than a 4x8, which is us reinventing the wheel making it uniquely for a select group within a single country. (Note a 5x5 makes exactly one full set of boards and frames.... video coming soon). Baltic is amazing to build with, however is boring grain and is less fun to stain, but is insanely strong, smooth and heavy. 3/4” ply on a board weighing 25lbs will not bound I’d it sits flat on ground (a wobbly board will bounce. And a light board will bounce, spring from 1/2” ply isn’t the only source for bounce)... but Baltic is kryptonite for bounce!! And also for shipping rates (heavy haha). I hope that helps! Thanks!!
Awesome information. I need to find a local lumber yard instead of the big box stores!!
It’s a bit of a game changer. You can find higher quality for the same price, and then all kinds of other options too. However prices are not listed, and if you don’t have much of a plan of what you’re looking for, it can be a little overwhelming. But a good sales rep will show you around and help you feel more comfortable 👍 good luck
Fantastic video! Also thank you for stopping the background music half way through. Kinda distracting
Thanks for the feedback… audio levels seem to be all over the place for different people. I know my squeaky roller has been a source of dissatisfaction 😂
Do you use 3/4 or 1/2" birch ply?
We use 3/4”, even when we choose Baltic 💪
Where can I buy a set of these legs built ready to mount to my boards?
Hey Dave, sorry for the delay. We don’t sell the legs anymore. Sorry. Check the website though, some of our friends might. Cornholecollective.com/friends
I build my boards with 2x4. can I jig those up.?
If you can dream it you can jig it!!! But I’d think you’ll need a larger jig since your frame will have a longer distance between the hole and then end of your frame. I’d love to see what you come up with!!
did you ever make this jig?? i'd be curious to see it
I found some 5x5 Baltic how do you get a full set out of that?
Feel free to dm me @burlybags on Instagram or hit me up in our new awesome Facebook group.... but here’s an abbreviated version.... 2.5” frames and you get full set including center brace and leg brace. You’ll cut the top 1’ off giving you a 1’x5’ chunk which will give you 6 horizontal frame pieces and two leg braces, and then 4 legs... then you’ll be left with a 4’x5’ chunk that you’ll rip two decks out of leaving your with a 1’x4’ chunk that gives you 4 side frame pieces.... then you’ll have a beer and rejoice in the mathematical perfection.... and to take it a step further, I personally don’t like staining Baltic, so I primarily use it for frames.... so I save my tops and if needed I can break them down into frames... each top makes exactly one frame 🤯... it’s like an ocd dream
@@cornholecollective7116 Thanks! I cut that up tonight. Perfect! I cut a dado joint 1/2" in on the sides. Is there an easy way to figure where the holes go on the sides? I was thinking of using 31.6 miter
detent.
not that I’m aware of... you get to do it the “hard way” unfortunately... glad the Baltic went well!!!
Great jig! Subscribed. Did you just grind the front off of the standard mushroom head carriage bolts flat to make the jig or are those something special?
Hey Bailey! Thank you and welcome to the collective! They’re called “elevator bolts”. They’re quite handy and a big step up from my prototype of screws sticking out from the rails 😂
Did you change your design? Looks like you're using plywood for the frames and legs now..
Hi RR. No changes in design, unfortunately this is just some confusion caused by there being two of us running the channel. Scott (@mossboards) is the creator of the “build better boards” series and has a different leg and frame style than I do. While many aspects of our two approaches and designs overlap significantly, unfortunately our legs are on two different paths. This video would be geared towards the 1/2 of people using 1Xs or ripped ply legs. While “making legs the hard way” is the same for both methods, this video would only apply to those with legs the same width as the frame. I really should have been able to see this coming and addressed it in the video. Sorry about that.
Can I buy just a set of legs??
We don’t sell legs. Suggest one of our partner builders though. Cornholecollective.com/friends
When did you start using plywood for the frames and legs? Is there a video on that? I take a jig @ $50, sending you an email
Hi mike, I know you already emailed, but to help with that same question for others I’d like to answer it here too. “Cornhole collective” is a channel run by myself (hunter @burlybags) and Scott (@mossboards). We both have slightly contrasting styles. And I personally rip my frames and legs from 3/4” Baltic birch, where Scott uses select pine 1x3, and 2x3 legs. Unfortunately in areas like this where I am discussing my method, and it is quite different than the methods he used in “building some better boards” it causes a bit of confusion. I’m fortunate to have more free reign in my garage to use it as a shop, where as his must retain the function of garage too. This allows me to have a large table saw and pursue methods in the direction of batching larger quantities, where his space limitations must keep his methods compact. Thank you for taking the time to ask, because I’m sure we’ve got to be causing this confusion pretty often.
@@cornholecollective7116 Hunter - Thank you and Scott so much for sharing your expertise. Your channel has totally upp'd my cornhole game! In regards to plywood vs. dimensional lumber for the legs - How do they hold up? I have been afraid to use plywood because my customers have kids jumping on the boards and they take quite a bit of abuse. Appreciate any thoughts you could share
Thanks Jeff! We’re having fun and always love hearing that people are enjoying our work. Personally I love my ply, but am using Baltic birch which is quite unique and amazing to build with, and very different than any ply you’d find at Home Depot. If you can do Baltic, I’d consider it for its strength and time saved for shipping for straight boards. But If I didn’t have Baltic I’d be using dimensional lumber. I hope that helps answer your question and again, appreciate hearing the feedback!! Welcome to the collective!
Thanks for this... great help in making the legs.... also... thank you VERY much for the eye-candy at the start of the vid... damned sexy man!!! Great legs, too.. and love the beard!!
Hahahaha That’s awesome!! Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching 🤙
@@cornholecollective7116 You are MORE than welcome Mr. Sexy Man!!! I'll keep watching... (naughty grin)
Haha thanks for the support
yawn
I know right?!?!