We had some made by a local steel work company. Just call around and ask, its really common for the I Beams to be used, we just asked them to weld a flange on the top and bottom with holes in it for bolts. Very simple, think it cost like a couple hundred bucks per beam, for the full thing. Much cheaper than $500-800 a company will charge you.
What’s the best way to alleviate pressure on the other side of the foundation? Putting more soil close to the foundation to make the grade go away from the house or digging out the soil next to the foundation to alleviate pressure from the foundation?
@@daleravic technically best solution is digging, filling the cracks on the outside m, and waterproofing the exterior. Then You wouldn’t need a full Interior permitter drain system. You would just need good grading and footer drains
@Bob Jones no!!! The issue is water on the foundation in general. Whether that water seeps in makes little difference. The freeze thaw cycle of the soil will still push it in.
Hey I used to do some home rehap and I'm close to your Area ..I'm trying to start a small buisniess I do trim carpentry work drywall painting ..and such if you ever need my services feel free to get back with me
wafrp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/2017_UBC_Foundation_Repair_Code.pdf Theres a link to the 2017 structural foundation repair guidlines.. eerything they did is relatively correct and to standard but engineered opinions are good to do for most as there are many unseen and overlooked aspects to doing stuff like this.. the spec in the pdf is a base guideline for engineers when writing up a build plan for contractors to follow for safety..
That said theres different shit you should do depending on the construction of the home, foundation, joist layout and supports, footings, grades and external factors like soil type, drainage, extent of damage, water intrusion, previous repairs etc...
Like how it said screwing in bolts and it cuts to mr beef kung pao fire chops over there hammering on the fugger.. ha.. good deal tho pickle. In Fo Tainment...
Sure.. nothing could go wrong excavating backfill up against a bowing and moving wall. First you SUPPORT the wall then you can remove the dirt outside to add a frost barrier or fix what ever is causing the problem.
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what size ibeams? any specific weight, diameter? e.t.c?
How deep do you put the rebar intonthe ground for the jack?
whats the average cost for this?
All over the board from $15k to 50k depending on severity
15-50 is insane. I’ve gotten estimates on all 4 walls from 6 contractors and the highest estimate was $8500.
For beams and installation obviously.
Where did you buy those I beams with flange and holt holes on the bottom?
The wall is still bowed though...
Did you excavate the outside of the wall before you pushed the I-beams against the base of the wall?
That would be the complete fix with the beams. Stop the problem at the source first.
Nice work, obviously not your first rodeo. I have done many of these repairs over the years and have to say the size of those beams are overkill.
Thanks for the video. What do you call those beams? I can’t find any with the mounting holes for drilling to the floor.
We had some made by a local steel work company. Just call around and ask, its really common for the I Beams to be used, we just asked them to weld a flange on the top and bottom with holes in it for bolts. Very simple, think it cost like a couple hundred bucks per beam, for the full thing. Much cheaper than $500-800 a company will charge you.
Thanks for sharing the video! Great idea! Can you answer everyone's questions in the comments below your video? I have many of the same questions.
When your walls are bowed, how much will you jack the post at the bottom before you bolt it in?
What’s the best way to alleviate pressure on the other side of the foundation? Putting more soil close to the foundation to make the grade go away from the house or digging out the soil next to the foundation to alleviate pressure from the foundation?
Pressure relief system on the inside. Trench, weep holes in the blocks to the sump.
@@daleravic technically best solution is digging, filling the cracks on the outside m, and waterproofing the exterior. Then You wouldn’t need a full Interior permitter drain system. You would just need good grading and footer drains
@Bob Jones no!!! The issue is water on the foundation in general. Whether that water seeps in makes little difference. The freeze thaw cycle of the soil will still push it in.
Try se
Hey I used to do some home rehap and I'm close to your Area ..I'm trying to start a small buisniess I do trim carpentry work drywall painting ..and such if you ever need my services feel free to get back with me
i never could tell what filled the gap between the beam and the perpendicular joist?
Sounds very professional, and very thorough!
Nice how far apart should I space my wall beams ?
Good Question. They are about 5ft apart in most cases.
wafrp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/2017_UBC_Foundation_Repair_Code.pdf
Theres a link to the 2017 structural foundation repair guidlines.. eerything they did is relatively correct and to standard but engineered opinions are good to do for most as there are many unseen and overlooked aspects to doing stuff like this.. the spec in the pdf is a base guideline for engineers when writing up a build plan for contractors to follow for safety..
That said theres different shit you should do depending on the construction of the home, foundation, joist layout and supports, footings, grades and external factors like soil type, drainage, extent of damage, water intrusion, previous repairs etc...
@@CompThatHouse what size are the I beams?
@@ginacochran6292 4w 13
Where are u located ?? Curious
Like how it said screwing in bolts and it cuts to mr beef kung pao fire chops over there hammering on the fugger.. ha.. good deal tho pickle. In Fo Tainment...
That’s most likely a concrete expansion/wedge anchor bolt. Drill the hole and pound in the anchor bolt, then drive it in and the anchor expands.
Nice
Good walkthrough.
Thank you
is this special I beam? i cant find ones that has bracket at the bottom for bolting in.
Those are just prefabricated with a plate welded on the end. You could do something similar with a clip angle.
That's wrong. 1st you straighten the wall then brace it! If you think it go back by itself your crazy!!
Sure.. nothing could go wrong excavating backfill up against a bowing and moving wall. First you SUPPORT the wall then you can remove the dirt outside to add a frost barrier or fix what ever is causing the problem.
Where do u buy the steel beams at ?