So good. I was just struggling with a dark beautiful bathroom. Dark moody lighting with dark cabinets, and dark grey tile. I still need help with it. Your videos and books are so helpful!
Very few of the top realtors in my market are using photographers that use flambient like this. I’m video centric and offer photos just so agents don’t need to book a 2nd contractor, but offering photos of this quality will be a huge incentive for people to switch to my services. This is less work that the HDR editing I usually have to do to get whites white and walls looking smooth.
Thanks Nathan. This one really helped me as I had a big room and was getting weird colours on the wall near the windows. I needed a couple of extra flash pops down that end of the room. I will not forget next time. The client was really happy with my shots, so all good. Excellent tutorial.
His e-books are fantastic. You can take notes and highlight text in multiple colors. You can also easily read just the notes and the text that you highlighted in order to focus in on learning your specific needs.
Muchas gracias por estos vídeos. Intento asimilar y aprender. Mi meta es alcanzar este nivel de excelencia. Espero lograrlo algún día. Saludos desde España.
Thank you! It depends on the gig, which is one of the topics I talk about in amzn.to/3K9jopU I'd recommend downloading that e-book since so much depends on many variables,.
Thank you once again for another great video. You mention about doing this amount of work for a luxury listing in regards to im guessing how much you get paid. Percentage wise how much more time would you spend on an expensive listing to an average less expensive listing and percentage wise how much more would you charge? You may only do expensive listings but a ball park percentage would be appreciated. Thank you once again.
Thanks! Often these are the paid-by-the-hour gigs like I talk about the business techniques book. Not sure if you have a copy of that, but here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/2G8X4zT
Nathan, how would approach eliminating the window reflection on the shower glass? Seems you would get a better look into the interior shower features. Would using a polarizing filter work? Great video. Thanks again.
Hi Lew, as I show in the video, the shower pops reduced reflections on the shower glass immensely, so for 99.9% of my shoots I wouldn't take it further since the shower pops resulted in far better reflection-reduction than ambient or flash shots. Bear in mind that there was a separate shot for the shower with the door open, thus providing a view of that subject (the shower). Since this SPP is focused on the tub, taking every reflection out of the shower glass wouldn't be worth the effort. If I were shooting for some of my designer clients (this was for a builder, btw), which are gigs paid by the hour, and if that designer was reviewing the shot with me in real-time, and if the designer wanted to completely eliminate the shower glass reflections (lots and lots of ifs there), then the only way to do that with sure-fire confidence would be to block out the windows with black foam-core, black cloth, GOBOs, etc., turn off all interior lights, and then carefully pop flash shots. Since that would easily add 30 minutes to just this one shot, it's not often that my clients ask me to do that...there are times that I have...perhaps a tutorial on that? For most work though it's just not worth it; instead, it's more worthwhile to "reduce" not "eliminate" all of the natural artifacts in a photo.
If you use flash then there's no reason not to leave lights on if you expose correctly, as I point out in my interiors e-book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3cdLRvk
Those are some of the basics that are explained in book #1 in my REP series, which one video alone would not be able to cover. I'd suggest downloading the ebook, which will answer those questions and a whole lot more. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3S9VpKW
Another great video Nathan! A few questions for; Do you typically keep your white balance set to Auto for your ambient and flash shots? Reason I ask is because when I set my white balance using a grey card, the ambient shot looks fine but the flash shot looks terrible. Either too cool or too warm. All my shots I keep everything to auto and white balance correct in Lightroom using the WB selector and choosing the white baseboards in the rooms. Any workflow suggestions on that? Also, do you ever find that selecting Neutralize in your bathroom shots for the flash exposures cause a blue hue? I have in a couple shots recently and was just wondering if you ever have experienced that? Lastly, any new workaround for the yellow cast caused by the flash triggers? I’m currently shooting with the a7S iii and Explor 600 and my flash shot are so yellow. It’s easily correctable in post but would prefer to get the true color straight out of camera. Thank you so much! :)
Thanks Andrew. Most questions like yours are answered in-depth in my REP series, you might want to browse through my e-books, especially book #1 (interiors), which should help you with most of what you're dealing with, here's a link if you'd like to check them out: amzn.to/2GlWn6g
Hello, I have been wondering: I used Canon TS-E17. When I shot a room, I needed to shoot two pictures to complete the connection. At this time, the color deviation of the room was very serious. I tried to use flash to unify the color of the two photos, but when I used PS/LR later, I found it could not connect the photos. I don't know how do you solve this situation? I'm looking forward to your reply, and I'm looking forward to a special video. Thank you very much.
Anytime you need to stitch multiple photos together it's best to use all manual settings, including white balance. However, you could likely adjust the WBs on each image in post to make them match. Also, when you say "connect" the photos, I assume you are using PS's pano feature (File >> Automate >> Photomerge). Also, you may not have had enough overlap to merge/connect these images properly...you need a good 20% or more overlap.
Hi Nathan, noticed you do not use an ipad to view exposures when you walk into frame for flash shots, how do you know you have the flash at the power you need for best exposure without have to go back to the camera after each frame to view
Hi Stephen, this goes back to basics I cover for interiors and how to use histograms with shutter-release triggers. You might want to look at my e-book on interior photography, which covers this among other things for interior photography that I recommend, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/2HaklCp
Hey, I'm sorry for this beginners question but how is your flash linked to your camera to get those pops? I have a canon 5diii and a canon speedlight 430 xiii rt is it possible with this set up?
Hi Tara, to understand this fully, along with other things that will help you as a beginner, I'd recommend you take a look at my e-book on interior real estate photography, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3dLMY4z
Fabulous, Man you have figured this gig out! Bravo!
So good. I was just struggling with a dark beautiful bathroom. Dark moody lighting with dark cabinets, and dark grey tile. I still need help with it. Your videos and books are so helpful!
Very few of the top realtors in my market are using photographers that use flambient like this. I’m video centric and offer photos just so agents don’t need to book a 2nd contractor, but offering photos of this quality will be a huge incentive for people to switch to my services. This is less work that the HDR editing I usually have to do to get whites white and walls looking smooth.
New Nathan Cool video?!? Today just got a lot better! Thank you for the awesome content!
Thanks Nathan. This one really helped me as I had a big room and was getting weird colours on the wall near the windows. I needed a couple of extra flash pops down that end of the room. I will not forget next time. The client was really happy with my shots, so all good. Excellent tutorial.
His e-books are fantastic. You can take notes and highlight text in multiple colors. You can also easily read just the notes and the text that you highlighted in order to focus in on learning your specific needs.
Amazing tutorial, Nathan. Thank you for sharing.
Another excellent tutorial! Thanks Nathan.
Another incredible video Nathan thanks so much! Unbelievably useful tips throughout the whole thing
Great video.. Curious of what lens you used and use for your bathrooms shots?....
Another great one. got your books and I'm slowly improving. Thank you so much for these videos too.
Muchas gracias por estos vídeos. Intento asimilar y aprender. Mi meta es alcanzar este nivel de excelencia. Espero lograrlo algún día. Saludos desde España.
Wow!!!! Great video Mr. Cool. I learn something every time. Out to a shoot now.
Really nice! How long does the edit normally take you to do?
Thank you! It depends on the gig, which is one of the topics I talk about in amzn.to/3K9jopU I'd recommend downloading that e-book since so much depends on many variables,.
Of course it was useful Nathan!!
Nice room nice perspective great video thanks for sharing 👍
Amazing
Thank you once again for another great video.
You mention about doing this amount of work for a luxury listing in regards to im guessing how much you get paid.
Percentage wise how much more time would you spend on an expensive listing to an average less expensive listing and percentage wise how much more would you charge?
You may only do expensive listings but a ball park percentage would be appreciated.
Thank you once again.
Thanks! Often these are the paid-by-the-hour gigs like I talk about the business techniques book. Not sure if you have a copy of that, but here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/2G8X4zT
@@NathanCoolPhoto ok, I just purchased it thanks.
Your an Artist
Nathan, how would approach eliminating the window reflection on the shower glass? Seems you would get a better look into the interior shower features. Would using a polarizing filter work? Great video. Thanks again.
Hi Lew, as I show in the video, the shower pops reduced reflections on the shower glass immensely, so for 99.9% of my shoots I wouldn't take it further since the shower pops resulted in far better reflection-reduction than ambient or flash shots. Bear in mind that there was a separate shot for the shower with the door open, thus providing a view of that subject (the shower). Since this SPP is focused on the tub, taking every reflection out of the shower glass wouldn't be worth the effort. If I were shooting for some of my designer clients (this was for a builder, btw), which are gigs paid by the hour, and if that designer was reviewing the shot with me in real-time, and if the designer wanted to completely eliminate the shower glass reflections (lots and lots of ifs there), then the only way to do that with sure-fire confidence would be to block out the windows with black foam-core, black cloth, GOBOs, etc., turn off all interior lights, and then carefully pop flash shots. Since that would easily add 30 minutes to just this one shot, it's not often that my clients ask me to do that...there are times that I have...perhaps a tutorial on that? For most work though it's just not worth it; instead, it's more worthwhile to "reduce" not "eliminate" all of the natural artifacts in a photo.
What's your opinion on interior lights? On or off? It seems as if you had them off, you wouldn't have as many color/white balance issues? Thanks
If you use flash then there's no reason not to leave lights on if you expose correctly, as I point out in my interiors e-book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3cdLRvk
What remote are you using with the camera? Do you have a video on your equipment you use..? Thanks
Those are some of the basics that are explained in book #1 in my REP series, which one video alone would not be able to cover. I'd suggest downloading the ebook, which will answer those questions and a whole lot more. Here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3S9VpKW
Excellent Nathan, thanks for sharing such a complete workflow. Great video
Awesome tips 👌
Thanks 😊
Another great video Nathan! A few questions for; Do you typically keep your white balance set to Auto for your ambient and flash shots? Reason I ask is because when I set my white balance using a grey card, the ambient shot looks fine but the flash shot looks terrible. Either too cool or too warm. All my shots I keep everything to auto and white balance correct in Lightroom using the WB selector and choosing the white baseboards in the rooms. Any workflow suggestions on that?
Also, do you ever find that selecting Neutralize in your bathroom shots for the flash exposures cause a blue hue? I have in a couple shots recently and was just wondering if you ever have experienced that?
Lastly, any new workaround for the yellow cast caused by the flash triggers? I’m currently shooting with the a7S iii and Explor 600 and my flash shot are so yellow. It’s easily correctable in post but would prefer to get the true color straight out of camera.
Thank you so much! :)
Thanks Andrew. Most questions like yours are answered in-depth in my REP series, you might want to browse through my e-books, especially book #1 (interiors), which should help you with most of what you're dealing with, here's a link if you'd like to check them out: amzn.to/2GlWn6g
Nathan Cool Photo Thank you Nathan! Purchasing now! :)
Top of the best
thank's for you cool video
Hi thanks for the vids. Why a psd file and not tiff
PSD if you want to save all your PS work for later. High-end gigs often require revisions...for a cost ;)
Hello, I have been wondering:
I used Canon TS-E17. When I shot a room, I needed to shoot two pictures to complete the connection. At this time, the color deviation of the room was very serious. I tried to use flash to unify the color of the two photos, but when I used PS/LR later, I found it could not connect the photos. I don't know how do you solve this situation?
I'm looking forward to your reply, and I'm looking forward to a special video. Thank you very much.
Anytime you need to stitch multiple photos together it's best to use all manual settings, including white balance. However, you could likely adjust the WBs on each image in post to make them match. Also, when you say "connect" the photos, I assume you are using PS's pano feature (File >> Automate >> Photomerge). Also, you may not have had enough overlap to merge/connect these images properly...you need a good 20% or more overlap.
@@NathanCoolPhoto ok，thanks cool
Great vedio sir 👍
Hi Nathan, noticed you do not use an ipad to view exposures when you walk into frame for flash shots, how do you know you have the flash at the power you need for best exposure without have to go back to the camera after each frame to view
Hi Stephen, this goes back to basics I cover for interiors and how to use histograms with shutter-release triggers. You might want to look at my e-book on interior photography, which covers this among other things for interior photography that I recommend, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/2HaklCp
@@NathanCoolPhoto thank you
Hey, I'm sorry for this beginners question but how is your flash linked to your camera to get those pops?
I have a canon 5diii and a canon speedlight 430 xiii rt is it possible with this set up?
Hi Tara, to understand this fully, along with other things that will help you as a beginner, I'd recommend you take a look at my e-book on interior real estate photography, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3dLMY4z