Remember to always spray your target with water. It causes the wood to swell which means better sticks as well as the wood kinda heals itself better after the torcher
If you think that is heavy, I built my hatchet target from 6x6 PT, cut 3 1/2" thick and 9 blocks high by 7 across. Once framed in 2x6, w/9 2x4 slats and 7' 4x4 legs, I estimate it's about 250lbs. Truth be told, 7 high by 7 wide is big enough a d could save about 30-45lbs. Pro tips: 1) Even for hatchets, you don't need the blocks to be more than 3 1/2" thick, especially if framing with 2x4 boards. 2) My target was designed to replace the blocks as they wore out so no glue. The blocks are secured in the back by a 3" screw thru a 2x4 slat. 3) If I make another. I will assemble the frame first, stack the blocks, then cap it at the top
@@BooneDownSouth lol!! You're telling me! That's partly why I only screwed them from behind w/o glue. Also makes it easier to replace blocks. I don't want to havemive that thing anymore uess I start using steroids.
Good design on this target. I'm just getting into throwing construction nails and wonder would this design/materials work for that purpose? Also, your daughter's Cheez-it shirt is the best!
Play one of these myself the only problem I had was the 4 by 4 I use were not all the same size some one was maybe an eighth of an inch smaller so when I put all my pieces together they weren't uniform but it looks just like yours about 90% I put a piece of plywood behind mine and then put 48 screws inside of all the blocks.
Heath it is hanging in an open barn under a roof. Sides are all open but it is under a roof. It still looks like it does after I built it. The marks left from the throwing knives and stars my kids have look like that have done minimal damage to the target so I expect it to last for quite some time. Having said that, this was built more for fun and not competition for them, so they go in spurts using it.
Awesome thanks for info. Hey curious what type of wood is the 4x4s? I live in central louisiana and call i can seem to get is #2 pressure treated yellow pine. But im guessing as an end grain target that should be ok.
@@KoHheath81 I can't remember for sure. I know they were not pine. I am thinking they were cedar but they don't red enough to be cedar to me. Might have been fir. In SC the big box stores carries a few types of 4x4 posts other than pressure treated pine and that is what I got, but I know it was not pine. I think any end grain will be fine, don't know what the stuff they use to pressure treat with though. Not sure if it might have any long term effect on the blades.
Remember to always spray your target with water. It causes the wood to swell which means better sticks as well as the wood kinda heals itself better after the torcher
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!
Good work
Thank you! Cheers!
If you think that is heavy, I built my hatchet target from 6x6 PT, cut 3 1/2" thick and 9 blocks high by 7 across. Once framed in 2x6, w/9 2x4 slats and 7' 4x4 legs, I estimate it's about 250lbs. Truth be told, 7 high by 7 wide is big enough a d could save about 30-45lbs.
Pro tips: 1) Even for hatchets, you don't need the blocks to be more than 3 1/2" thick, especially if framing with 2x4 boards. 2) My target was designed to replace the blocks as they wore out so no glue. The blocks are secured in the back by a 3" screw thru a 2x4 slat. 3) If I make another. I will assemble the frame first, stack the blocks, then cap it at the top
Dude!!! That is super heavy. That is a set it in place one time kind of target. Awesome!
@@BooneDownSouth lol!! You're telling me! That's partly why I only screwed them from behind w/o glue. Also makes it easier to replace blocks. I don't want to havemive that thing anymore uess I start using steroids.
Good design on this target. I'm just getting into throwing construction nails and wonder would this design/materials work for that purpose? Also, your daughter's Cheez-it shirt is the best!
Man I really don't know anything about throwing construction nails!. Yea she loves that shirt!
Play one of these myself the only problem I had was the 4 by 4 I use were not all the same size some one was maybe an eighth of an inch smaller so when I put all my pieces together they weren't uniform but it looks just like yours about 90% I put a piece of plywood behind mine and then put 48 screws inside of all the blocks.
Yea I ran into some of that too with the 4x4 not being quite exact. The method you used works great too!
What if you don't use glue, after front edge gets torn up. You could change out only bad 4x4s ?????😉
Yea you probably could.
Without glue, what would keep them next to each other? Thoughts and prayers?
@@Robert-iy3by a backing board and screws, genius
So how has this held up over time?
Heath it is hanging in an open barn under a roof. Sides are all open but it is under a roof. It still looks like it does after I built it. The marks left from the throwing knives and stars my kids have look like that have done minimal damage to the target so I expect it to last for quite some time. Having said that, this was built more for fun and not competition for them, so they go in spurts using it.
Awesome thanks for info. Hey curious what type of wood is the 4x4s? I live in central louisiana and call i can seem to get is #2 pressure treated yellow pine. But im guessing as an end grain target that should be ok.
@@KoHheath81 I can't remember for sure. I know they were not pine. I am thinking they were cedar but they don't red enough to be cedar to me. Might have been fir. In SC the big box stores carries a few types of 4x4 posts other than pressure treated pine and that is what I got, but I know it was not pine. I think any end grain will be fine, don't know what the stuff they use to pressure treat with though. Not sure if it might have any long term effect on the blades.