Very clever to have a clean white background to make the details stand out. It makes it so much easier to follow because there's nothing there that shouldn't be there. Just simply a very clean and detailed video that anyone can follow, so kudos for a top notch job there.
Thank you very much for such a thoughtful comment. My goal is to make them as easy as possible for everyone around the world to follow. I Still have a lot to learn as far as presentation goes. Slowly we're getting there.👍
I recommend watching it while lying on a bed or couch. This way, when you're starting to nod off and your head tilts back, it'll have a comfy pillow to fall on. 😁
Anytime! Let me know if you have any questions. If it wasn't for the two proprietary tools and the needle fill for the ifp chamber this would be a very simple and cost effective shock to work on.
Hi, great vid thanks! Not much else out there in as good a level of detail as this. I have a remote pulley eyelet on my DPS and took that apart as my cable release from my lockout lever was getting a little sticky at the shock end. Having cleaned up and greased and put it back together I now no longer have rebound 'clicks' from the red rebound dial on the shock, the dial still spins within the same parameters as it should do (it hits the limit at either end which would have been considered the last 'click' of adjustment). Also worth mentioning that my compression/lockout assembly acts as it should. I don't see why it would be important but thought I'd mention that I did not unthread the 'head' or 'top eyelet' off from the metering rod as my shock isn't old and wouldn't need new seals etc in that area so I figured I'd leave those steps out (also considering I don't have those specialist tools for that part!) If you could help me out with any suggestions or potential solutions that would be much appreciated, I could definitely live with my rebound not having definitive clicks as long as it still worked as it should! But I thought I'd ask now before reassembling it all to find I may have made a silly mistake leading to my rebound not working! Thanks for any response, much appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words. Just to make sure I'm clear, you only took apart the rebound and compression knobs, right, you didn't take out the spring and the cam shaft that the knobs connect to. If the above is accurate, then I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the cam isn't sitting as aggressively on the rebound rod as it was. This could change after your first ride. You can easily test the rebound to make sure it works. It will either work or it won't. Now, if you removed the cam to clean it, grease it, and then reinstall it, and the rebound knob stopped working, then the cam isn't sitting correctly on the rebound rod. To fix this, it'll require you to remove the main shaft from the eyelet, then align everything correctly, before screwing them back together. Let me know if you tested the rebound to see if it works.
@@zoubtube thanks for the reply. It was the second scenario. I have taken out the cams and the spring. The remote lockout/ plate lift is all working fine. For the purpose of this explanation I'll call the main shaft as it is, and the rod with the ball bearing on top the 'inner sleeve'. I have now figured out what I believe the issue is however I may still be wrong! I can push the piece on the top of the inner sleeve down (the part with the ball bearing on top) and reinstall all the cams and knobs for rebound and compression and it will give clicks for what would be slowing down the rebound, however when I turn the rebound knob/cam back the other way (counter-clockwise) it loses it's clicks and I can see and feel that the detents on the rebound cam are no longer engaging with the ball bearing atop the inner sleeve. So my guess is that I am assuming that the spring which sits within the main shaft at the top of the inner sleeve is for keeping the ball bearing on top of the inner sleeve up against the rebound cam for positive click engagement. If that is indeed the theory behind the spring then in my case it is not lifting the inner sleeve up enough that the ball bearing is actively sprung against the rebound cam (as it can be pushed down when rebound knob is turned clockwise but it cannot lift itself/return when the cam is turned counter-clockwise). When all the cams are taken out too I can push the lockout plate in and the inner sleeve moves quite freely within the main shaft up and down and can move a slight bit laterally too. I thought the next step would be to remove the main shaft but I have struggled to do that myself with a 9mm 'shaft clamp' the same as used in the video but instead I made it with wood. So I will have to take it to a suspension servicer near me as they will have the proper 9mm shaft clamp. The spring may need replacing or simply just the whole thing re-aligned and set back in place properly as you have said! Sorry for such a long message, thanks for your help, much appreciated! *edit* - After removing the eyelet head all looks well in there but I realise there is no spring and I now notice you stating in the video that newer models (which mine is) don't have the spring. So in reference to my problem above which is still happening, I'm now assuming I can put it all together as it was before and that once there is pressure in the shock i.e oil and ifp charged then the inner sleeve will be pushed up against the rebound cam and the counter-clockwise clicks will work again as it should? Just struggling to see how a spring is not necessary there! Thanks
Yup! It shows that rockshox considers servicing products when it comes to product design. Which makes sense as it would make it more profitable for them. I've been into tools for a long time, pretty much since I was a kid, tearing apart dirt bikes, cars, etc, but I have never worked as a mechanic as a profession. I grew up in a time when my high school literally had a large, full-blown mechanic shop, paint booths and everything. I learned a lot in those years. Many of us worked on large projects back then and learned from each other. It was truly a different time. There was a time when I used to fully maintain street bikes (motorcycles) back in my track racing days, which included fully serving engines (if I never see a shim under bucket again, it would still be too soon 😉). This is where my obsession with proper torque specs started. The last thing you want is a bolt head breaking off at 160+ mph before heading into a chicane. 😱 I've had one of those high-stress jobs for a very long time now. Working on mountain bikes and other projects is a form of mental therapy for me. I've been doing it for many years. I will say that it has never been more fun working on mountain bikes than it has been for the last decade or so. It truly is a great time to be a mountain biker. 👍 Let me know if you have any questions.
Hi Zoub, why is it important to remove all the air bubbles when filling the body with 10wt green? Is it the same place that the air/nitrogen gets pressurized into?
Apologies for the delayed response. Great question. A shock is basically a hydraulic system. Any air within the oil of a hydraulic system will act as suspension since air can be squeezed, so it is imperative to remove ALL air from the oil side of the system in order for oil to freely flow without anything inside it to compress. If there is air in the oil, then the response will be a soft, mushy type of feeling. The more air, the more mushy (Now that I think about it, how did "mushy" ever become a word) The damper body has an IFP in it, which separates the oil on one side, and the air on the other side. The air side is literally acting as a suspension for the oil on the other side of the IFP. We never want air from the air side of the IFP chamber to enter the oil side. Ultimately, the seal on the IFP itself will fail over time, which will let air into the oil side. This is the reason we do a 200-hour service. 200 hours is just a reference point. Some people might need to do this service sooner, others later, but it's a good average for most shock (though not the X2, that thing can pop anytime). Hopefully this helps, and let me know if you have any questions
Apologies for the late response. Are you asking about the nitrogen needle? There are many places that sell them. if you search "shock nitrogen needle" in google you will see a list. I have a few, including the following which seems to do the job, but make sure you buy extra needles. The needles are pretty sensitive. I plan on making a detailed video just about filling a shock using a shock pump. www.amazon.com/Nicecnc-Nitrogen-Needle-Replace-snowmobile/dp/B082FJS17D/ref=asc_df_B082FJS17D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693505325168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6275939685577655622&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-965680038216&psc=1&mcid=31ab4823b6fa33bd9bb6a05d8982aa7f&gad_source=1 Schmidtyracing sells a good kit as well. they has aluminum hum needles which are more durable www.schmidtyracing.com/Nitrogen-Needle-Fill-Tool-Adaptor-p/n-ft-ne-shr.htm
Yes. shock companies sell travel limiters. NOT to be confused with air can spacers. limiters are installed on the inner shaft in order to reduce travel. ex, a 185x55 shock can be limited to 52.5mm or even 50mm etc. there are limits to how much you can reduce the stroke though. let me know if you have anymore questions on this. thanks
Very clever to have a clean white background to make the details stand out. It makes it so much easier to follow because there's nothing there that shouldn't be there.
Just simply a very clean and detailed video that anyone can follow, so kudos for a top notch job there.
Thank you very much for such a thoughtful comment. My goal is to make them as easy as possible for everyone around the world to follow. I Still have a lot to learn as far as presentation goes. Slowly we're getting there.👍
I need to get my popcorn for this one 😅
I recommend watching it while lying on a bed or couch. This way, when you're starting to nod off and your head tilts back, it'll have a comfy pillow to fall on. 😁
Popcorn and a bucket of Slick Honey.
1:51:21🎉🎉🎉 that’ll be me tomorrow at the shop. Thanks again Zoub!
Anytime! Let me know if you have any questions. If it wasn't for the two proprietary tools and the needle fill for the ifp chamber this would be a very simple and cost effective shock to work on.
Hi, great vid thanks! Not much else out there in as good a level of detail as this. I have a remote pulley eyelet on my DPS and took that apart as my cable release from my lockout lever was getting a little sticky at the shock end. Having cleaned up and greased and put it back together I now no longer have rebound 'clicks' from the red rebound dial on the shock, the dial still spins within the same parameters as it should do (it hits the limit at either end which would have been considered the last 'click' of adjustment). Also worth mentioning that my compression/lockout assembly acts as it should.
I don't see why it would be important but thought I'd mention that I did not unthread the 'head' or 'top eyelet' off from the metering rod as my shock isn't old and wouldn't need new seals etc in that area so I figured I'd leave those steps out (also considering I don't have those specialist tools for that part!)
If you could help me out with any suggestions or potential solutions that would be much appreciated, I could definitely live with my rebound not having definitive clicks as long as it still worked as it should! But I thought I'd ask now before reassembling it all to find I may have made a silly mistake leading to my rebound not working!
Thanks for any response, much appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words. Just to make sure I'm clear, you only took apart the rebound and compression knobs, right, you didn't take out the spring and the cam shaft that the knobs connect to. If the above is accurate, then I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the cam isn't sitting as aggressively on the rebound rod as it was. This could change after your first ride. You can easily test the rebound to make sure it works. It will either work or it won't.
Now, if you removed the cam to clean it, grease it, and then reinstall it, and the rebound knob stopped working, then the cam isn't sitting correctly on the rebound rod. To fix this, it'll require you to remove the main shaft from the eyelet, then align everything correctly, before screwing them back together.
Let me know if you tested the rebound to see if it works.
@@zoubtube thanks for the reply. It was the second scenario. I have taken out the cams and the spring. The remote lockout/ plate lift is all working fine.
For the purpose of this explanation I'll call the main shaft as it is, and the rod with the ball bearing on top the 'inner sleeve'.
I have now figured out what I believe the issue is however I may still be wrong! I can push the piece on the top of the inner sleeve down (the part with the ball bearing on top) and reinstall all the cams and knobs for rebound and compression and it will give clicks for what would be slowing down the rebound, however when I turn the rebound knob/cam back the other way (counter-clockwise) it loses it's clicks and I can see and feel that the detents on the rebound cam are no longer engaging with the ball bearing atop the inner sleeve.
So my guess is that I am assuming that the spring which sits within the main shaft at the top of the inner sleeve is for keeping the ball bearing on top of the inner sleeve up against the rebound cam for positive click engagement. If that is indeed the theory behind the spring then in my case it is not lifting the inner sleeve up enough that the ball bearing is actively sprung against the rebound cam (as it can be pushed down when rebound knob is turned clockwise but it cannot lift itself/return when the cam is turned counter-clockwise).
When all the cams are taken out too I can push the lockout plate in and the inner sleeve moves quite freely within the main shaft up and down and can move a slight bit laterally too.
I thought the next step would be to remove the main shaft but I have struggled to do that myself with a 9mm 'shaft clamp' the same as used in the video but instead I made it with wood. So I will have to take it to a suspension servicer near me as they will have the proper 9mm shaft clamp.
The spring may need replacing or simply just the whole thing re-aligned and set back in place properly as you have said!
Sorry for such a long message, thanks for your help, much appreciated!
*edit*
- After removing the eyelet head all looks well in there but I realise there is no spring and I now notice you stating in the video that newer models (which mine is) don't have the spring. So in reference to my problem above which is still happening, I'm now assuming I can put it all together as it was before and that once there is pressure in the shock i.e oil and ifp charged then the inner sleeve will be pushed up against the rebound cam and the counter-clockwise clicks will work again as it should? Just struggling to see how a spring is not necessary there!
Thanks
RockShox seems to be more DIY oriented :) Amazing video, as always. I envy you all your tools. Are you a bike mechanic by profession?
Yup! It shows that rockshox considers servicing products when it comes to product design. Which makes sense as it would make it more profitable for them.
I've been into tools for a long time, pretty much since I was a kid, tearing apart dirt bikes, cars, etc, but I have never worked as a mechanic as a profession. I grew up in a time when my high school literally had a large, full-blown mechanic shop, paint booths and everything. I learned a lot in those years. Many of us worked on large projects back then and learned from each other. It was truly a different time.
There was a time when I used to fully maintain street bikes (motorcycles) back in my track racing days, which included fully serving engines (if I never see a shim under bucket again, it would still be too soon 😉). This is where my obsession with proper torque specs started. The last thing you want is a bolt head breaking off at 160+ mph before heading into a chicane. 😱
I've had one of those high-stress jobs for a very long time now. Working on mountain bikes and other projects is a form of mental therapy for me. I've been doing it for many years. I will say that it has never been more fun working on mountain bikes than it has been for the last decade or so. It truly is a great time to be a mountain biker. 👍
Let me know if you have any questions.
Hi Zoub, why is it important to remove all the air bubbles when filling the body with 10wt green? Is it the same place that the air/nitrogen gets pressurized into?
Apologies for the delayed response. Great question. A shock is basically a hydraulic system. Any air within the oil of a hydraulic system will act as suspension since air can be squeezed, so it is imperative to remove ALL air from the oil side of the system in order for oil to freely flow without anything inside it to compress. If there is air in the oil, then the response will be a soft, mushy type of feeling. The more air, the more mushy (Now that I think about it, how did "mushy" ever become a word)
The damper body has an IFP in it, which separates the oil on one side, and the air on the other side. The air side is literally acting as a suspension for the oil on the other side of the IFP. We never want air from the air side of the IFP chamber to enter the oil side. Ultimately, the seal on the IFP itself will fail over time, which will let air into the oil side. This is the reason we do a 200-hour service. 200 hours is just a reference point. Some people might need to do this service sooner, others later, but it's a good average for most shock (though not the X2, that thing can pop anytime).
Hopefully this helps, and let me know if you have any questions
Where can I order the adapter for the shock pump…
Apologies for the late response. Are you asking about the nitrogen needle? There are many places that sell them. if you search "shock nitrogen needle" in google you will see a list.
I have a few, including the following which seems to do the job, but make sure you buy extra needles. The needles are pretty sensitive. I plan on making a detailed video just about filling a shock using a shock pump.
www.amazon.com/Nicecnc-Nitrogen-Needle-Replace-snowmobile/dp/B082FJS17D/ref=asc_df_B082FJS17D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693505325168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6275939685577655622&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-965680038216&psc=1&mcid=31ab4823b6fa33bd9bb6a05d8982aa7f&gad_source=1
Schmidtyracing sells a good kit as well. they has aluminum hum needles which are more durable
www.schmidtyracing.com/Nitrogen-Needle-Fill-Tool-Adaptor-p/n-ft-ne-shr.htm
Hi, can you adjust the stroke length of these shocks?
Yes. shock companies sell travel limiters. NOT to be confused with air can spacers. limiters are installed on the inner shaft in order to reduce travel. ex, a 185x55 shock can be limited to 52.5mm or even 50mm etc. there are limits to how much you can reduce the stroke though. let me know if you have anymore questions on this. thanks