Preparing Your Roof for Metal Roofing
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- This video will show you the different steps you will need to take to prepare your roof for metal roofing. We'll show you our technique for applying wood strips (purlins) to your roof prior to installing the metal panels.
Go to www.RoofingInte... to watch the complete 14 video series on installing metal roofing.
Excellent and easy to understand for a DYI guy like myself .
I definitely want to know about finishing around a chimney and the edges of the roof.
If you live in Florida be prepared to have leaks after about 7-8 years. The grommet washers wear out and the screws leak. Spend the money to have an architectural shingle roof put on. Been in the business 26 years. If you put on a metal roof make sure it's a standing seam with no exposed fasteners.
I live in the cloudiest part of Ohio our uv rays aren't near as intense the rubber washers on the screws last longer up here.
It's so cloudy up here they built an army base here in WW2 so spy planes can't photograph it lol
Respectufully: we've been installing these roofs in Georgia for 25 years and if they are applied correctly, the screws can last for decades. Eventually though, you will need to replace the screws.
@@RoofingIntelligence Respectfully screws do not last for decades in Florida.
They will if you use cap screws. They are designed with a metal cap that covers the entire rubber washer. But they are 3 times the cost of regular screws.
@@sterileneutrino2288 Roofers in Florida go the cheap way. They slam it on and your problems are your problems in 8-10 years. But I have seen them used. Problem is the home owner doesn't have a clue.
What about underlayment over top of shingles and then the purlin strips before the metal application?
Glad to see new content. Do you need to cut a ridge vent on a detached unheated garage when you roof over? Currently we have a 10 year old 24x24 and the shingles are in good shape. The reason I ask is that at the ridge, all the trusses have been blocked between with 2x4’s Thanks
If the vent is not going to really function that it's probably okay to skip it. In general, I install vents pretty much everywhere, regardless of the particulars of the building as it may do some good to vent even a little bit.
Can you tell if the roof deck is in good condition without removing the existing roofing?
I would say go under the attic. The damage should be visible from there.
The music takes the edge off. Sometimes I take things too seriously. Thanks for the wealth of information.
Very helpful information thank you so much
Thank you for your quick descriptions without a bunch of blah blah. subscribed. Question: if you are extending the roof, is it okay to not deck it with OSB, provided you use the 1x4 or 2x4s ?
Do you have any videos on hip cap installation at the top?. For instance, a wrap around porch connected to a hip roof
The furring strips over existing shingles is a good idea, but I see you're showing 2x4s. Right?? So then that shortens the height of pipe vents, which I suppose would throw that part out of code. Right?
So if there is existing shingles, would you recommend installing synthetic paper on top of the shingles, then your 1x4 on top of the paper or is the paper redundant since there’s shingles already?
I think the paper is redundant. The old shingles will serve as an adequate vapor barrier beneath the metal roof.
Quick and to the point. Do you have videos on how to tie ridges together?
Metal
Pole
Lean To
Back frne
My issue is I have 8 box vents 4 on each slant in the center running along the roof. Then 3 ridge vents across the roof. I want a metal roof. But I can't find any info on removing the box vents or keeping them for the new roof. I'm looking at removing the shingles.
Are the purlon strips attached to wver rafter or evwry other? Hard to tell in the video.
Thanks
I'd go every rafter just to be safe.
Love your videos.
a lot of manufacturers it vertical firing under the horizontal furing
Would it be worth it to put a layer of tar paper over top of the shingles before installing the wood purlins?
No, seems like a waste of time adding a layer of asphalt to a layer of asphalt.....
Great content, love your channel!
Which direction should i run stringline to level my urlins when there is a big sag in roof
Why don’t you also put vertical battens from bottom to top that sit on rafters, that way there would be much more air flow in combination with horizontal battens?
The way you cut open the top of the roof decking and and dont install a gasket later on when you put the ridge cap on does that eliminate the need for installing roof vents?
That is a ridge vent he cut in. There is a gap between the panel and ridge cap that site can escape
How are you going to put solar panels on it if your roofing over the top of the shingles like that? Isn't that going to make it easily dented if you ever have to walk on it for maintenance?
the panels are pretty sturdy for walking on. I always advise standing on the areas with the screws so as to be directly on top of a purlin.
Is it okay to fill the gap between purlins with insulation panels (ie sandwich insulation panels between the composite shingles and metal roof)?
Following, hopefully they answer soon!
What if you have water leak on roof and shingles damaged. Should the shingles be removed prior to metal roof install. Board under shingles could be rooten from water leak and need replaced
Tear that section of shingles off and replace the roof deck. Any other course of action will result in mold in the attic and possibly a large hole in the roof.
What state are you in?
No gap under your furring strips will cause wood rot and metal rust
I agree
Do you need to remove all the existing drip edge?
can you walk on the roof when on purlins?
Yes
Can 1x4’s instead of 2x4’s hold the screws securely?
Typically 1x4 are better so the the screws for the metal go through them and into the original roof deck, really helps to hold everything down
1x4's work great.
Do you absolutely need 1x4 or 2x4 strips or can you use "strapping" (1x3)?
I think you should be able to get away with 3"... I think people use 4" material to make it easier to hit the boards with the screws without worrying too much about accuracy... I could also be very wrong.
the problem with wood perlins is water collects around screws and on the perlins and rots the wood if you use perlins only use ceadar or cypress they wont rot and your metal roff wont fly off the add. for a roofing co. shows them putting meatal roofing directly on roof deck no perlins
should the wood strips be treated lumber?
I never use treated lumber. The chemicals in the lumber can corrode the screws and the underside of the metal. Plus, the wood shouldn't be getting wet!
Can I use 3/4” plywood strips?
I don't wee why not.
I struggle with the idea of whether or not I should strip my shingles prior to installing a metal roof. Once stripped, I think it may be easier for me to install the metal roof. Easier fit up and such. Conversely, I like the idea of furring strips tying into my trusses. My deck is old 1x8's. I think I'll strip it then seal it up with that synthetic blue stuff. That will buy me time to get it done.
I have the same decking as you, and I definitely will strip off my single layer of shingles first. I like the idea of getting all that extra weight of the shingles off the roof, then put down the 1x4 furring strips. I know my roof has some waviness to it, so I can shim under the furring strips and get things leveled up better, before putting on the metal. Also, like you, I want to use a good sealing underlayment below the furring strips because I know this isn't going to be a quick project for me, and I don't want to be stressing out about water penetration from rain while I'm working on it.
I agree. Take off the shingles if you have the time and energy to do so.
Do you offer work shops
cedar good wood for Florida bugs
How much of a little depression in the deck is acceptable to not have to shim?
I think a small depression shouldn't be a problem. By the time you install the wood purlins and metal, most small deflections will disappear. In any event, most dips in the roof affect only the appearance of the roof and not the function.
Everything was good practice in this video yo to when they screwed through the flat part of the metal sheeting that part was pathetic.
Keeping the shingles on means you're adding additional weight to your roof and frame. I'd insist on removing the asphalt shingles and get several tons of weight off the roof and frame.
1x3s?
Putting a metal roof over shingles defeats the purpose of the metal roof, a metal roof is lighter than a shingle roof, by installing a metal roof over shingles you now have the weight of the shingles and the weight of the metal on the roof. Do it right and remove the shingles, that is the only way to be sure there is no plywood damage/rot and you can properly install peel and stick water barrier under the metal roof and you get the benefit of the lighter metal roof putting less stress on the roof structure.
26 gauge is adding 3/4 lb per SQ ft plus what little weight from the 1x4s. Not enough weight to negatively affect the roof. The shingles already have a vapor barrier under them plus the shingles themselves act as a barrier. Leave the ends of the strips open on the gable ends for better airflow and shell last long time.
What do you use for nailing or screwing down the purlions(strips) onto the roof? We use to use Long Pole Barn Nails - Like 5 inchers back in the day?
We typically use 3" gun nails. I get the hot dipped galvanized ring shank nails. You could also use a 3" deck screw.
Love your videos. Could do without the music
Take off all roofing to the roof boards. Make sure the surface is smooth and free of old nails. Then go ahead and install your metal roofing right over the clean existing roof boards. Bob your uncle.
Wrong, you need to install a peel and stick water barrier before you install the metal panels. This will keep water from penetrating the underside of the metal roof and rotting the plywood.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 That's stupid, nothing is going to penetrate the metal roofing..
Hate the music, detail and voice important.
Are you kidding me? 2x4's! As far as I can see there is nothing intelligent about this at all. Why not the cheaper, thinner and easier to work with1x4"s that would serve exactly the same purpose? Get some 2 inch metal screws, some felt underlayment paper, followed by synthetic roofing underlayment and screw your roof down over it! It's that simple. Stay away from sales people. They are paid to LIE!
Using the whole top of the roof as a hidden vent? Genius.
After 10 years the same shirt 😁😁😁
Timeless!