Lhotse 8516m solo no oxygen climb! Acclimatization at Three passes!
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- Last year I successfully climbed Lhotse, with 8516m meters the fourth highest mountain on the planet right next to Mount Everest. On summit day the 21st of May 2023, I was completely alone and by myself in the couloir, I did not see a singe soul that day, had the summit all for myself and it felt like a real solo, on top of that I was the only climber to summit Lhotse without oxygen in that year. This mountain is often called Everests little brother and kinda unknown to most people. Lhotse shares the same identical route with mount Everest all the way up to Camp 4 at 7700 meters. Your Basecamp is Everest Basecamp, you have to climb through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and 2 as if you would climb Everest. To reach Camp 3 at 7100 meters you have to climb the incredibly huge and steep Lhotse face together with the Everest contenders and climb across the Yellow Band. To reach the summit you have to climb through the Lhotse couloir, a very steep and 800meter long line of, rock, ice and snow. Lhotse is one of the big five and therefore extremely challenging and exhausting to reach without supplemental oxygen!
It was my very first 8000er experience and I did not know how my body would react in the death zone at all! To be completely honest with you I was scared and frightened to the bone to enter the Death Zone, since I heard so many stories and I knew so many non oxygen climbers died there, suffer HAPE or HACE and just disappear forever.
Because of that I trained and prepared like a mad man! I did not want to leave any room for errors or chances, so I made sure to have the possibly best acclimatization I could get! That is why I already traveled up to the Solo Khumbu in the beginning of March and started my acclimatization phase. My primary goal was to spend as much time there as possible so my body can adapt slowly. I read a lot about the human physiology and acclimatization and how to prepare for it. I stumbled across Ueli Stecks and David Göttlers strategy to train and Trail Run at 4000 and 5000 meters, to strengthen the cardiovascular system and to acclimatize even more. So I copied their strategy and did the same!
This video shows the beginning of my acclimatization in the Solo Khumbu and how I climb the first part of the Three Passes Trek!
Enjoy!
Your Norrdine Nouar
This is my successful climb of Lhotse 8516m, the fourth highest mountain on the planet right next to Mount Everest solo withou oxygen in 2023.
This is my very first 8000er I attempt after 13 years of preperation and intense solo experiences as a mountaineer.
In this video I will show you my acclimatization phase before I even approach the mountain and the basecamp. I will take you from Kathmandu to Lukla, Namche Bazaar and across the Three passes trek to all the tiny little villages and towns.
You are the best and most authentic on you-tube. No O2 and solo climbing...Only way it should be
Thank you buddy! I will try to go more alpine in the future! Stay tuned!
Thanks again for sharing your training for Lhotse!
Anytime! Glad you enjoy it!
Just an amazing journey Norrdine. Thank you for this climb.
Thank you! Stay tuned, this one will have 2 or 3 more parts.
Glad I found you and really enjoying your adventures and taking us along with you. I admire what you’re doing. Safety is always 1st priority! Don’t worry about showing us, stay focused always on your safety! ❤️👍🏼😊
Thank you so much! Yeah if you approach these giants in a thoughtful and respectful way, you can be successful without risking to much!
Absolute Spitzenleistung!
Dank dir vielmals!
You are a tough man... Incredible what you do 🔥🔥🙏🏻🙏🏻
Haha, thank you so much! It is a lot of hard work sometimes but so rewarding!
Chocobo theme! Love your videos with the FF music!
:D Most people watching this channel probably dont know what a Chocobo is
This video was a great surprise. Thanks yet again for sharing.
I couldn't do an expedition like this. Im way too old, but even if i could i would end up in jail for stealing every puppy i could bring with me. Dang, they are cute..
Hope you will share the rest of this expedition.
I really enjoy following along.
I will definately share the rest! It will be at least 3 more videos :D And yeaaaa all the animals there are sooo cute!
Another wonderful adventure with stunning scenery. I love your videos on camp life, around Annapurna 1, Lhotse, & Everest! But I sure enjoy the training on the various treks, villages, etc., encountering animals on the trails, even more. I think it's because you are more relaxed. It takes me a while to watch, because I follow along on maps & look up the routes. So much for you to see. I bet it's hard to stay focused! Thank you again for sharing!
More content is coming! The Solo Khumbu is extremely beautiful and I can just highly recommend to everyone to go there and experience the beauty and the culture first hand
As always amazing videos! I look forward to watching them. Glad you are doing well. Congratulations on your summits!
You are still watching! :D Thank you! More content is on the way for you!
Absolutely stunning scenery and that's good that you could get to some quiet places. You really work hard on the acclimatization process - it's very impressive. Yes don't take any risks with your safety to show us the videos - safety first. Lovely to see the contrast between the forests and human settlements and the snow clad mountains higher up. Take care.
Yeah, the solo Khumbu is extremely beautiful, especially in less crowded areas and early in the season before the circus starts. I was very very very afraid of the death zone, therefore I trained like crazy and took a super conservative approach to acclimatize enough. I think that is the key and secret to safe non o² climbs.
Nice Video, thanks for sharing :D
Thank you so much buddy!
Amazing! The views are just beautiful. Stay safe.
Isnt it? It is absolutely beautiful!
I saw 999 subs.. so I thought I press the sub button for you. 😊 on your way to 8k subs
wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooot! THANK YOU!!!!!
you are amazing.
Thank you for your kind words!
Enjoyed. Birds at that altitude wow
Wow man, what a challenge crazy adventure!
Lhotse was indeed a crazy adventure! This is the three passes btw it is super beautiful!
You are a machine!
Thank you buddy! Hard work turns us humans into beasts!
Hey brother. your channel is growing. this was the first video recommended to me of yours. I've recently been on a binge of past everest expeditions.. But this year feels special with 100 years (as of yesterday, 8 overnight to 9 of June) passing of Mallory and Irvine in 1924.
Wishing you all the luck my man! what other expeditions do you have planned? instant subscriber. much love
Hey buddy thank you so much and thank you for your kind words! Happy to hear, that the YT algorithm noticed me! I would like to climb in a more alpine and minimalistic way in the future. I am trying to organize a small little expedition for Cho Oyu from the Nepal side and maybe even Makalu for the next year of only two or three alpinists, no Sherpas, no fixed ropes, just the mountain and us. That would be awesome!
@@norrdinenouar This is what im loving about you man. you're doing it the real, raw way, no help from sherpa/guides, and no oxygen. Crazy stuff, real "out-there" business. You're smashing these 8000ers. Truly no other words than upmost respect and admiration. Much love and keep it coming!
GG.
Dass war eine aufregende und spannende Zeit als du letztes Jahr deinen ersten 8000 + Gipfel erklommen hast. Hartes Training und deine gute Vorbereitung haben sich ausgezahlt 💪💪💪
Das war es tatsächlich! Hartes Training und Disziplin zahlen sich aus!
Last month, we completed 3 passes by taking the opposite route. It's a challenge to walk with a heavy backpack. Hats off to you, brother.
Isnt it absolutely beautiful? I love the 3 passes. I love the Chhukung Area and the Thame valley so much
Interesting seeing the paths and walk up the pass
Happy you like it!
You sir are an absolute beast.
Stay safe, and all the best.
Awww thank you so much! Hard work turns us humans into beasts! Stay safe aswell!
Is that your dog at the beginning? Adorable
Nope, he just found me and decided to follow me around
see the algo did catch up like i told you :D well done, but ofc the animals get sared when you talk german to them ^.^
yeah, hope it continues like that and is not just because of Everest season. Hahah good one :P
Some nice animal footage, it's easy to be at peace around animals and mountains. Unless it's a bear trying to rip your face off or something.
Animals have such a beautiful nature and are so chill and calm!
nice one bro. what was your vo2 max at before you climbed up there??
Hey buddy, actually my Vo2 wasnt that outstanding. I just had a Vo2 of about 51 before I went to Nepal.
Wow!!! Are you trying to reach every 8k peak this season? Come on! Annapurna, Everest and now Lhotse? Hopefully it will end better than with Everest. Good luck
Haha, this was last year :D But who knows, maybe I will try 3x8000 or more in one season one day.... you know in Pakistan... there are a lot of low 8000ers close by :P
@@norrdinenouar Yeah I know haha! It’s awesome that you have responded to my comment! I appreciate it! Your videos are also really cool, because they show authentic view of these giants. Good luck with next adventures!
have you ever checked your Vo2 Max - I wonder if that correlates with summiting without o2???
Hey, I only have the data from my Garmin on Vo2 Max and never did a real test. Garmin says my Vo2 Max is not that outstanding. I am only at 51, I currently run a Marathon in about 3h20min and the 10k in 42min. These are good numbers but nothing exceptional.
Did they check your permit for Lhotse?Did you take part in an organised expedition?Did you use existing ropes above camp 4?If you were solo did you have to pay for passage [camp 2?] etc.
Yes it was part of an organized expedition, yes I used ropes and no I did not have to pay. I know you may not like me using the term solo and technically you are right it is not a solo it is a self sufficient climb.
Was this video taken during peak hot season? It’s crazy to see the mountain so dry
Summit was on the 21st of May. They did not have a lot of snow in the winter before.
😍
Maja!!
show as how you camp
Patience buddy 😉