You are absolutely correct when you say, some people will never cut one of these keyseats in their life but would like to see how it's done, and that's me. I love these videos and look forward to the next. Thanks so very much ......Ken
Who can give a "thumbs down" on the correct way to do something? Thanks Mr. Peterson for your time and for sharing your knowledge. I just love that attachment.
Jim Bridges here, I do cut strait key seats and as you said, using the end mill is more difficult than using the woodruff key cutter. I do use the woodruff key cutter and are able to under cut and have great success. I enjoy watching you work and especially the very detailed instruction on what you are doing.
Excellent teaching video mrpete. When I was in machine shop class the teacher always made us file the radii on the end of the key. I think this was just to torture us mere mortals. It did look a good job when done though. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
When you mentioned the Jacobs incident it made me recall similar problems I had when introducing side load to a taper fit between a male and female Jacobs/Morse taper . I had a lot of trouble when using a sanding drum on my drill press. The male taper would simply fall out of the female spindle taper of the drill press. I paid a professional machinist to inspect the fit between the two tapers. He also looked for run-out problems etc. etc. and everything was good in his opinion regarding my Chi-Com/ Grizzly drill press. The problem persisted and the male arbor continued to separate from the female spindle of the drill press. I approached another machinist. He asked about a built- in light on the drill press which my unit did indeed have. He told me not to use it because the heat was expanding/loosening the fit between the two spindle components. His advice worked. I am now using the built in light again but with an L.E.D. bulb which produces almost no heat compared to the original incandescent bulb. The light set-up is buried in the body of the drill press and an incandescent bulb heats up the entire body of the drill press to an amazing level. I have not had a single incident of the arbor falling out of the spindle since switching to the L.E.D. bulb a few years ago.
It amuses me when you say I'll attempt to keep this short and it almost never is but I don't care I like the videos long lots of good info in all your videos
kinda makes me wish I had the space in my shop to invest in a clausing or bridgeport.....but i'm a woodworker, and I don't have enough room for the few stationary machines I DO have, much less new ones...:P guess I'll just have to live vicariously and keep watching :)
Exelent tips. You should never worry about the length and details of your videos. Some of us are just starting out with a lathe. I just bought a South Bend 14 1/2 ". 183C . I found info that it takes 4C collets. I am going to try to find a set.
very cool! thank you!! my mini lathe spindle has key seats with a radius on both ends -- and matching keys (rounded on both ends) that fit quite perfectly.
I like it when you fail at making short videos. You share a lot of knowledge and you're entertaining as well. I know how to fast forward if I want to do so but I Don't.
I might be wrong about this, but does the dial indicator look like it's not parallel to the bed way (see video around 7:04)? If it isn't then the 0.469" you're measuring does not represent the movement of the carriage (horizontally), but a movement in the (angled) direction in which the dial indicator is sitting at. Triangle geometry dictated a closer look at the relationship between the cosine of the included angle, the (intended) horizontal measurement (.469"), and the (indicated) reading on the triangle leg containing the dial indicator. I don't know the angle you had in your setup, but if I assume it were, say 20º, then, to get the movement you want, the indicator would have to be moved by 0.499" (I chose 20º, but you get the point). Keep up the good work!
Good instruction video, like all the others. I was wondering why you couldn't plunge the Woodruff cutter into the shaft and cut by conventional milling. I have this late and this milling attachment. Never have cut a keyway yet.
Power feed - I'd tend to favour power feed - starting with the slowest feed rate. It gives more control, a better finish and removes the risk of your nervous twitch wrecking everything.
When using the Woodruff cutter instead of climb milling can you cut like the woodruff key and then conventional mill your way to the end stock. I'm wondering if there are any pro's or con's to this technique. As always, I sure appreciate your videos. I watch them and I use them. Truly, I have never used a lathe or milling machine before watching your videos and now I own two lathes (South Bend 9A and Clausing 12inch) and a South Bend milling machine. I've built your steam engine, machined parts for my car and have a blast learning more and more not to mention all the great tools I can buy and build right here in my shop!! Thank you for all you do.
I was wondering the same as I watched this. It maybe that some milling attachments lack the rigidity needed to control the part in the axis of feed, but you may succeed if you can apply just the right amount of tension to the gib(s), balancing the need to feed with control of backlash if the tool tends to grab the work.
Hiya, thanks for making yet another great video! I've been watching for years now I think, and I hope there will be many more in the future! The way you explain stuff is very soothing, and sometimes I just put one of your videos on just for the audio while doing other stuff, it's just relaxing!
The climb milling issue would be resolved if you cut the keyway on the other side of the vice - i.e. the part of the shaft sticking out towards you - if you're working from the end inwards. Alternatively, you could do it set up like you were but start the cut at the other end by running the milling cut while setting your depth of cut.
mrpete would you ever consider doing a video on how to machine a cotter pin i think thats what its called from a pedal cycle??.. Thanks for sharing sir..
22:05 "2 flute - but you can use a 4 flute..." You'd probably get away with that as you were milling on the side. It appears, from watching other videos, 4 flute end mills have difficulty clearing the swarf leading to jam ups and tool breakage. It seems 2 flute mills don't seem to have this problem when milling on a vertical mill.
Never say never. I have a drawer of slitting saws I had never used despite the fact I was still adding to that stash. Well low and behold, I finally used one this very week to cut an extractor relief in a pistol barrel. Worked just like tubalcain showed in his videos. LOL
+grntitan1 I am alluding to the fact that I don't even have a home and I don't ever plan on taking on enough responsibility to earn a real amount of money.
Cringed when you described the Jacobs chuck on the floor, did it myself recently, I had no collects, so used a Jacob's & it worked just long enough to make me feel it would be good enough, but then ... Ruined a piece & so I bought ER collets like I should have initially: Penny wise & pound foolish punished me again!
You are absolutely correct when you say, some people will never cut one of these keyseats in their life but would like to see how it's done, and that's me. I love these videos and look forward to the next. Thanks so very much ......Ken
i have will also never get to blow-up an old tractor --- a little help, mr. pete? :)
Who can give a "thumbs down" on the correct way to do something? Thanks Mr. Peterson for your time and for sharing your knowledge. I just love that attachment.
I do prefer these "short" Videos. There is so much information along the way. Thanks.
Lyle,
Just wanted to let you know I'm still here watching and enjoying every moment. As always, great instruction.
Thank You
Jim Bridges here, I do cut strait key seats and as you said, using the end mill is more difficult than using the woodruff key cutter. I do use the woodruff key cutter and are able to under cut and have great success. I enjoy watching you work and especially the very detailed instruction on what you are doing.
Nice demo of the use of the milling attachment on the lathe for doing that type of operation.
Another great example of good machining practices. Thanks Mr Pete
Another great instructional video. This is the way to teach people how to do things. Keep on keeping on.
Congratulations on being the only person on youtube this week to have used the word chagrined.
Excellent teaching video mrpete. When I was in machine shop class the teacher always made us file the radii on the end of the key. I think this was just to torture us mere mortals. It did look a good job when done though. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
When you mentioned the Jacobs incident it made me recall similar problems I had when introducing side load to a taper fit between a male and female Jacobs/Morse taper . I had a lot of trouble when using a sanding drum on my drill press. The male taper would simply fall out of the female spindle taper of the drill press. I paid a professional machinist to inspect the fit between the two tapers. He also looked for run-out problems etc. etc. and everything was good in his opinion regarding my Chi-Com/ Grizzly drill press. The problem persisted and the male arbor continued to separate from the female spindle of the drill press. I approached another machinist. He asked about a built- in light on the drill press which my unit did indeed have. He told me not to use it because the heat was expanding/loosening the fit between the two spindle components. His advice worked. I am now using the built in light again but with an L.E.D. bulb which produces almost no heat compared to the original incandescent bulb. The light set-up is buried in the body of the drill press and an incandescent bulb heats up the entire body of the drill press to an amazing level. I have not had a single incident of the arbor falling out of the spindle since switching to the L.E.D. bulb a few years ago.
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate the time and info you put into your videos.
It amuses me when you say I'll attempt to keep this short and it almost never is but I don't care I like the videos long lots of good info in all your videos
kinda makes me wish I had the space in my shop to invest in a clausing or bridgeport.....but i'm a woodworker, and I don't have enough room for the few stationary machines I DO have, much less new ones...:P guess I'll just have to live vicariously and keep watching :)
At 9:26 when you said .094, maybe it's the angle, but it looked like you moved it .096. Just noting, love your videos and instruction.
I am one of those that will probably never cut such, but I enjoy seeing how much work is involved for such a simple-appearing job. Thanks, Tubalcain!
I'm glad you didn't cut the video short, please don't think that way!
Exelent tips. You should never worry about the length and details of your videos. Some of us are just starting out with a lathe. I just bought a South Bend 14 1/2 ". 183C . I found info that it takes 4C collets. I am going to try to find a set.
Another excellent video. Very informative and entertaining! I look forward to every video you produce!
very cool! thank you!! my mini lathe spindle has key seats with a radius on both ends -- and matching keys (rounded on both ends) that fit quite perfectly.
I like it when you fail at making short videos. You share a lot of knowledge and you're entertaining as well. I know how to fast forward if I want to do so but I Don't.
thank you for your help and need to teach
i have learned a great deal from you even though im not even close to being a machinist
Don't try and shorten your videos on my account. At times I watch the longer ones in two sessions. Thumbs up!!!
Great video Pete.
I might be wrong about this, but does the dial indicator look like it's not parallel to the bed way (see video around 7:04)? If it isn't then the 0.469" you're measuring does not represent the movement of the carriage (horizontally), but a movement in the (angled) direction in which the dial indicator is sitting at. Triangle geometry dictated a closer look at the relationship between the cosine of the included angle, the (intended) horizontal measurement (.469"), and the (indicated) reading on the triangle leg containing the dial indicator. I don't know the angle you had in your setup, but if I assume it were, say 20º, then, to get the movement you want, the indicator would have to be moved by 0.499" (I chose 20º, but you get the point). Keep up the good work!
you shure do great work! really appreciate what you do!
thanks Pete!
Great show again!
Good instruction video, like all the others.
I was wondering why you couldn't plunge the Woodruff cutter into the shaft and cut by conventional milling. I have this late and this milling attachment. Never have cut a keyway yet.
Power feed - I'd tend to favour power feed - starting with the slowest feed rate. It gives more control, a better finish and removes the risk of your nervous twitch wrecking everything.
When using the Woodruff cutter instead of climb milling can you cut like the woodruff key and then conventional mill your way to the end stock. I'm wondering if there are any pro's or con's to this technique.
As always, I sure appreciate your videos. I watch them and I use them. Truly, I have never used a lathe or milling machine before watching your videos and now I own two lathes (South Bend 9A and Clausing 12inch) and a South Bend milling machine. I've built your steam engine, machined parts for my car and have a blast learning more and more not to mention all the great tools I can buy and build right here in my shop!!
Thank you for all you do.
I was wondering the same as I watched this. It maybe that some milling attachments lack the rigidity needed to control the part in the axis of feed, but you may succeed if you can apply just the right amount of tension to the gib(s), balancing the need to feed with control of backlash if the tool tends to grab the work.
Hiya, thanks for making yet another great video! I've been watching for years now I think, and I hope there will be many more in the future! The way you explain stuff is very soothing, and sometimes I just put one of your videos on just for the audio while doing other stuff, it's just relaxing!
The climb milling issue would be resolved if you cut the keyway on the other side of the vice - i.e. the part of the shaft sticking out towards you - if you're working from the end inwards. Alternatively, you could do it set up like you were but start the cut at the other end by running the milling cut while setting your depth of cut.
Thank you for all good tips :)
mrpete would you ever consider doing a video on how to machine a cotter pin i think thats what its called from a pedal cycle??.. Thanks for sharing sir..
THANK YOU...for sharing.
What about holding the key cutter in drill Chuck? Much less forces needed then with end mill
Great job
perfect video, just like your work
How would you cut keyseat on a 1.5 meters (5 feet) shaft from tip to tip?
Excellent.
22:05 "2 flute - but you can use a 4 flute..."
You'd probably get away with that as you were milling on the side. It appears, from watching other videos, 4 flute end mills have difficulty clearing the swarf leading to jam ups and tool breakage. It seems 2 flute mills don't seem to have this problem when milling on a vertical mill.
Thanks
can you do a video of cutting threads 5/8 fine thread on a lathe using a die holder ?
Just like going back to school except you study something you want to study.
🤙🤙
Why not use reverse to conventional mill instead of climb milling ?
I likely will never GET to cut a key seat in my life.
Never say never. I have a drawer of slitting saws I had never used despite the fact I was still adding to that stash. Well low and behold, I finally used one this very week to cut an extractor relief in a pistol barrel. Worked just like tubalcain showed in his videos. LOL
+grntitan1 I am alluding to the fact that I don't even have a home and I don't ever plan on taking on enough responsibility to earn a real amount of money.
By 'key seat' you mean keyway !
1835 Jrnl. Franklin Inst. 15 New Ser. 193 "keyway" - 8 years before...
1843 Jrnl. Franklin Inst. 5 232 "key seat"
Do you honestly wear safety glasses?
Cringed when you described the Jacobs chuck on the floor, did it myself recently, I had no collects, so used a Jacob's & it worked just long enough to make me feel it would be good enough, but then ... Ruined a piece & so I bought ER collets like I should have initially: Penny wise & pound foolish punished me again!
1st comment
3rd like
Interlacing is terrible...