3D Scanning An Artifact - Reverse Engineering using Photogrammetry
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Both 3D scanning and 3D printing are employed more frequently in archeology as well as by museums for conservation. In this video, I show how to 3D scan an old axehead using photogrammetry. This is a much cheaper way of creating a 3d model than more expensive 3d scanner equipment, e.g. those that use structured lighting. The resulting 3D file can be used for detailed measurements and for understanding the construction of an object. This enables the reverse engineering of old blacksmithing techniques! As a proof of concept, I print the axe on my little Lulzbot Mini 3D printer.
The resulting 3D file is available as Patreon reward: / 3d-scan-of-old-17157708
A big thank you to the following Patreon patrons:
Ben Ferland
Andrew Hecker
George Marsack
Graham Bullard
Jeremy Letheule
László Várady
Nathan Webb
Ryan Hurst
Join me: / nielsprovos
Subscribe: / mintwart
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Filmed on a Sony PXW‑FS7. Color grading in DaVinci Resolve.
If you orient the print diagonally to the bed you should be able to get a full 7" print if you want one.
To get adhesion to the bed, start the first few lines of the print at 30% speed, then, slowly ramp up. It's so effective that i don't even bother with tape or glue, i just print on the glass directly. If you're good with G-code, you can even code it in automatically.
Also, you should play with your support method's settings, you can always print a smidge higher, and have a less built support, that turns in to a stronger support when it reaches the item to be printed.
Unfortunately, you're on Apple, so i don't really know stuff on that side of the computer world. I assume it's pretty much the same tho, so it should be in settings or maybe even play with the file itself in 3d (IE, you space it out the item to be printed from the support structure you made by a few thou, works really nicely when you print hinges, btw).
Great work putting this together. Really enjoyed the process. You do a wonderful job narrating your videos.
Thank you. It's always surprising how much time it takes to put a video together. I enjoy the process, so that works out.
I’m curious why you needed to orient the print perpendicular to one edge of the build platform? Had you oriented it at 45 degrees you could have had more than eight inches. Of course with the thickness of the eye end your actual length would be a bit shorter. But, totally cool video. Thank you!
I could have tried that but am having some trouble with adhesion at the moment. I may need to get an enclosure for the printer or print with a material that does not contract as much. Good point though.
Niels Provos, anyway, this combination of high tech and traditional techniques is what I do all the time. CNC mill parts and then hand chisel to give the parts character. Or vacuum assist lost wax cast from 3D printed waxes followed by hand chiseling.
I would have prefered PETG to HIPS, simply because HIPS tends to warp a lot more. You get more strings with PETG, but they are easy to remove with a hot gun.
Great video, just wondering what program you used to create the alpha channels?
I used a nodal compositor called Nuke. You can probably do something very similar in After Effects and other programs like that.
Thanks very much for your help.
I wish there was more then just a little thumb up for Your videos.
Why use green in particular? Wouldn't a white background have provided a better/sharper contrast between the object and the background? Or are there other considerations beyond this type of contrast?
EDIT: As for the "slow video production", I guess people are too used to instant results, and are used to content makers churning out a video per day... It takes time to make things, doubly so if it's made well, I would choose quality over quantity any day.
What is that node based green screen program? That looks like a massive time saver!
I used Nuke.
you could have printed at 1:1 scale if you split up the mesh beforehand.. or printing it diagonally or standing up.. great project though!
Please do more forging videos. Serpent in the sword was awesome to watch would like to see another epic piece forged
Wow, this software is really expensive I assume?
But it doesn't matter, I wouldn't have the skill to use it ;D
You did an outstanding job there!
Wow!
The basic version of Photoscan I am using is relatively inexpensive but with all of this there is certainly a learning curve.
Are you not working on any weaponsmithing project? Can you redo your crucible steel project to make a better product? I tried more or less your exact crucible steel process with methods and similar equipments , but the end knife which was same size as yours was good for little more than kitchen duty. Can you please produce a better experiment for crucible steel
Nice render! I've done lots of this kind of stuff before,. It works really well with sort of more "random" objects like rocks or logs or a rusty axe I suppose but for something more detailed it tends to turn out really badly. I'm surprised you didn't run into any issues with the software. I used a different alternative for mine but I had loads of issues with all sorts of things
You've explained how to use Agisoft much better than they did...
Sweet video! Why didn't you position the axe head diagonally in the printer to be able to print at full size?
This is great for preserving information of an artifact. But you can't beat old school creation.
Cool video. I always enjoy watching your channel.
Can a 3D rendering be made using just a profile image, at least to start?
Excellent video! Loved seeing that process
Niels, couldn't you adjust the brightness of the photo within the "Brightness and Contrast" aspect of your photography software? One of the advantages of under-brightness is that details are not 'washed out' with too much brightness. Adjusting the brightness and contrast within the software suite should be a basic function available to you and can really be an asset.
That could have worked. I am not sure how precise features need to be for Photoscan. My goal was for everything to look pretty much identical no matter which way the axehead was turned.