Hi Frank, good vid! Just one question though - for the re-soldering of the four points, did you make use of the existing solder and just smudged/massaged it around a bit to try to get some better contact with the P.C.B and pins, or did you extract all the old solder out and then applied fresh solder? Cheers!
Hi tommis, sorry for the late replay. I just massaged it around to get better contact it was fine. But also with time discovered that the conector on the back of the cluster can become loose and not old very well on the MAP board, since those old units the concetor was directly connected to the map board
That's OK man. I ended up taking it to a electrician/circuit board genius who replaced all the caps on it for me and redid all of the solder points as well, along with a calibration...but not till after exhausting pretty much every single thing I could do myself haha!
Hello from France, Frank. I have the same problem on my R33 Gts-t since one week. I have seen some tutorials on different forums... But you only worked on the 4 welding ? Absolutely no action required on the IC AN8352UBK ? (no replacement ?)
Some times the conector on the back is the issue, since they are old the map on the back where you plug the conector can be loose and not making good contact
I love your videos ❤️
I'm about to try this on a recently purchased r33 it's just started this on day 13 . I will get back with results 😃 2022
Well??
Never expected you to be black like me haha 😅 likes us africans love the R33 😅
Awsome. Now we don't have to pay tripple the price just for a replacement!
Hi Frank, good vid!
Just one question though - for the re-soldering of the four points, did you make use of the existing solder and just smudged/massaged it around a bit to try to get some better contact with the P.C.B and pins, or did you extract all the old solder out and then applied fresh solder? Cheers!
Hi tommis, sorry for the late replay. I just massaged it around to get better contact it was fine. But also with time discovered that the conector on the back of the cluster can become loose and not old very well on the MAP board, since those old units the concetor was directly connected to the map board
That's OK man. I ended up taking it to a electrician/circuit board genius who replaced all the caps on it for me and redid all of the solder points as well, along with a calibration...but not till after exhausting pretty much every single thing I could do myself haha!
I have the same problem. Thanks a mill 👍
Hello from France, Frank.
I have the same problem on my R33 Gts-t since one week.
I have seen some tutorials on different forums...
But you only worked on the 4 welding ?
Absolutely no action required on the IC AN8352UBK ? (no replacement ?)
Mine dose that but it’s the Speedo not rpm, would it be same thing?
Thank you so much, really helps for my r33 , works perfectly now 👌🏻
Cheers
Thanks mate I’m going to try this tomorrow
Hope you enjoy
What do you mean by resolder? Do u have to melt away the old solder points and then add new solder? :s
Yes make them fresh. Sometimes it’s cracking when it’s old.
you have an r33 now
Having issue with my temp gauge now
What is that lever on the back for?
It's where you can hook/tie down your cables. Just a thin flexi piece of metal to help keep cables tidy
i did that but still the tacho jumping😂
Some times the conector on the back is the issue, since they are old the map on the back where you plug the conector can be loose and not making good contact