TIP: Use all-purpose thread in your bobbin. Topstitching thread is too thick for the bobbin in most machines. Since topstitching thread is for decorative purposes it doesn't really need to be in the bobbin.
Your needle selection was the best. I can't even begin to describe the frustration with the wobbly top stitch. I've watched so many videos and have never seen that. Thanks.
Excellent! First of you’re videos I’ve watched, and I’m sold. 😊 Been sewing for decades (started at 11), but haven’t for just over 10 years now due to severe health issues, but I’m DYING to get started again, bingeing on sewing vids 🥰, because I’ve lost all my confidence, and its people like you that are inspiring me to start again. Looking forward to viewing more of your vids,. LOVED the painters tape tip especially, and bulking up the fabric to keep the presser foot straight. 👍🏾 Thank you, thank you, thank you........ I feel a subscription coming on..... 😆
I've been struggling with topstitching for a while now and I've just learned so much watching your video. I didn't realize that using a correct needle and thread could make such a difference. Thanks very much for putting this together, it was so helpful!
Thank you. I really like topstitching and have seen a huge improvement in mine since switching to topstitch needles (or any needle made for woven fabrics like microtex or quilting needles when not using the thicker topstitch thread. Of course, I use these on woven fabrics ;-)
As an experienced seamstress I had tried all the tricks in my bag when my feed dogs kept trapping my corners when topstitching practically on the edge. Then I came across your video and it saved me, spare piece of fabric to the rescue! Thank you
Yay! So glad you found a trick you can use. I read about this tip somewhere and found it really worked for me. Had to pass it on ;-) Thanks for watching
I'm so glad this has been helpful. My number one tip is if your machine isn't working, rethread it. Just the top at first, then if still not working, rethread the bobbin too. Needle size makes a difference too so if you see skipped stitches try a different needle size (usually a bigger size). So happy to welcome a new sewer - we need more of us to catch up with the knitters (Confession, I'm trying to learn how to knit ;-)
I'm a new Sewing person, since my wife past away. I am learning and one thing that I saw will Help is when you mentioned doing a back-stitch for re-enforcement's. I will keep that tip to keep the end of the stitch neat without the extra bulk. You have presented your instructions in a very professional manner. .
Just found your videos. Wow, my teacher missed a lot of steps and hw tells me not to use my clips, and he keeps a lot of information from me, I think with him it's all about the money.
I figured I spent a lot of money and time learning how to sew (fashion design degree) so why not share what I know? Just like I learn from other videos how to fix my vacuum. But some teachers teach in a way you just don’t click with. So maybe that’s the situation with your teacher? Hopefully I have some videos that will be interesting- and helpful- to you
This is a wonderful tutorial. I'm trying to learn how to sew, and it is so helpful. Thanks so much for great tips and explaining everything so clearly.
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful. Enjoy your learning and don't fear any technique you come across. You just have to be patient, willing to mess up, rip it out, and do it over. The worse thing that can happen is you may have to throw away some fabric (which doesn't feel good but it does happen).
Great video. I would love to see a video showing how to top stitch while catching an opening underneath that needs to be closed, leaving both the top stitch and the stitch underneath well caught and aligned on both sides. Please and thank you:)
Oh, interesting - I would like to make that video. Can you give me more specifics? What's going on underneath? Is the underneath inside the garment? Or would someone be able to see it? (being well aligned on both sides has me wondering) Where would I need to do this, on a jacket, shirt, pants, bag, and where on that thing, a pocket, a cuff, a secret pocket? Any clarification you can give would be helpful. Thanks
@@TheDailySew sometimes it is the little light bulb moments that just elevate your work. You just make things so easy to understand, which is not easy through a screen. MAny thanks.
Hello I am desperately trying to topstitch Ultrasuede and having trouble. I am using a roller foot...fresh sharp needle and setting my stitches for a long length. The fabric seems to be sticking and the stitches are coming out short and tiny. I plan to try a walking foot but not sure if that will do anything a roller foot can't do. Any suggestions please? Thanks in advance Donna from Canada
Sounds like a walking foot would help your stitches. It will evenly feed the fabric under the needle. Your roller foot should be doing this but it’s obviously sticking and making your stitches short. I tried top stitching on some Ultrasuede scrap and had problems when my needle was too small. I also checked my fabric reference books in case there was anything else that might be helpful for your situation. Use a universal needle (not a leather needle) starting with a small size and working up to a size 100 depending on the thickness of your Ultrasuede . My Ultrasuede is thicker (upholstery weight) and a size 80 skipped stitches and a 90 didn’t. Set you stitch length to 2.5 - 4 mm or 6 to 10 stitches per inch for topstitching. Skipped stitches are common with Ultrasuede but a walking foot, roller, or Teflon foot are recommended. A last resort is to try loosening your machine’s tension.
Excellent! Sometimes I'm just lazy and don't want to change the needle that's already in the machine, and, yes, it can make a big difference in how your stitches look.
Good Question. I do not. Adjusting tension is the last thing I try when things aren't working. I lengthen the stitch and I use thinner all-purpose thread in the bobbin - always. Only adjust the tension if you notice that top thread stitch is really taught. I guess I'm used to the mechanical machine I sewed on for 30 years - I didn't want to mess up it's tuned-in tension if I didn't have to. If you have a computerized machine (as I do now) you can easily adjust it to try if it helps and then hit "clear" to reset the tension if it doesn't help.
My construction seams look pretty *chefs kiss* level but my topstitches look wobbly. And only now do I know why. I need to up my needle game. All purpose is not best for everything!
Hello I have been fighting for days for the stitching on a bag. I use imitation and canvas. I tried everything: jeans needle 100,110, universal 100 110, gutterman polyester thread: my stitches jump and pass the thicknesses badly (I use a tool to help the passage of the thicknesses) ... I also tried size thread 40 + classic thread in the bobbin it's worse the thread curls in the needle and is too loose (my bobbin case even jumps!) I'm desperate..I've tried several tensions etc...on the sides on the bag especially when I have several types of thicknesses especially even by helping my crowbar the stitches jump... I damage my bags each time at the end when topstitching on the top of the bag. I have a janome skyline s5, do you have any advice please?
Hello, I had to do some research to see if there was anything I could suggest. You have tried so many things already. I'm so sorry you're feeling this frustration. I have some ideas: 1. Stick with a Jeans or Topstitch needle, not a universal needle. 2. keep an all-purpose thread in the bobbin even if you use heavier thread in the needle. 3. Use a slightly longer thread length, at least 3 stitches per cm or 6-8 stitches per inch. 4. Sew slowly 5. Are you sewing imitation leather? (You wrote "I use imitation and canvas") if so use a roller presser foot or a teflon presser foot or have the imitation leather on the bottom and the canvas on top as you sew. Fabrics like imitation leather or vinyl stick to the presser foot and that will really mess up your stitches. A roller or teflon presser foot are suppose to "glide" over sticky fabrics. 6. When you get to the end, don't back tack. Stop, leave long thread tails, pull the top thread to the underside and tie the tails together. Hope you find something that will help.
Topstitches are a little bit longer than construction stitches. I sew seams at a 2.5 stitch length so when I top stitch I set my stitch length to 3 or almost 3. I should have put this very good question in the video 🤦
Loved the video. I am trying to perfect the top stitching technique for a bucket hat. I learned a lot fro your video. A question I wondered about is stitch length and tension so the bobbin thread doesn’t show through. Wha two I change. I have lengthened the stitch but is there more to adjust?
If your bobbin thread is coming up to the top the bobbin tension is either too loose or the needle thread tension is too tight and it's pulling the bobbin thread up. Nothing is an exact science so you're doing the best thing by testing it. If you are using thicker topstitch thread don't use it in the bobbin - use an all-purpose thread in the bobbin. And if it matches or is a little darker than your top thread it shouldn't be noticeable if it does come up a bit to the top. Sometimes a new needle, in the right size for your fabric, makes a difference too. I'm not sure if I said it in this video but some needles are new and just defective, so you can always try a new needle if your stitches are not right. (little nicks in the needle can catch that bobbin thread and drag it up). I'm glad you found the video helpful. Hope this helps too.
I have a question regarding the time spot 6:30 where you folded the extra piece of fabric to level out the foot. Does leveling out the foot make a difference with how the needle stitches the fabric? Because to my understanding I thought the foot was just to hold the fabric down so it didn’t clump while the needle stitched... I am a beginner btw please educate me!!
You're right the presser foot does hold the fabric down and if you accidentally forget to put the presser foot down you will have a mess of stitches. Opposite the presser foot are the feed dogs. They look like little rows of tiny teeth and they "grab" the fabric and pull it away from you as you stitch. The foot and the feed dogs work together feeding the top and bottom fabric through the machine. When the foot isn't level (this happens when you go over a bulky seam or at the edge of thicker fabric) it isn't applying even pressure against the feed dogs. And when that happens your stitches might be tiny or extra long for a few stitches until the foot becomes levels again. On a seam that no one sees, while not ideal, this is ok but when it's topstitching, especially in a contrasting thread and in an obvious place, you want your stitches to be all the same length. Keeping the foot level just helps keep the topstitching looking good ;-) I hope that helps explain it better. Thanks for the comment.
Great tips, thank you so much. Just one thing I struggle with - turning corners at exactly the right spot so the needle is in the perfect position to continue. I have to measure and mark dots where my needle needs to be before I pivot - is there an easier way to do this? Thanks.
Marking where to stop and pivot is the best way to get it exact. Some folks have a little gauge that is as wide as, or equal to, how far in from the edge they want to stop and turn. They then hold this up to the topstitching as they get close to the end so they know where to stop. You can buy this gauge ( I found one here so you know what I mean: www.connectingthreads.com/sewing-gauge/p/82719 ) or you could just cut a strip from an index card or file folder (something a little stiff) to use as a guide. For example; you want to topstitch along the edge until you are 1/2" away from the corner then you want to turn and stitch down the perpendicular edge. Cut a strip of stiff paper 1/2" wide. As you get close to the perpendicular edge, place that template (the paper strip), so it covers the last 1/2" of the line you're stitching. You will stop the needle, right at or before the paper, pivot, and stitch down the perpendicular edge. It's sort of like measuring in while you sew but a lot easier to see exactly where to stop than when using a ruler.
@@TheDailySew Thank you so much for your detailed reply - I've actually got one of those gauges, so I will definitely try it out, but I also really like the idea of a simple template.
@@trishaquinn7176 Me too. I forget about using homemade templates but they are really helpful. Sometimes tape, in the right width, (and tested on a scrap of fabric first) is a great template.
Well, there's some luck involved that your stitch length just works out ;-) but to manipulate where the needle will go back down into the fabric (at the point you want to change direction) you can turn the machine's handwheel to lower the needle and at the same time hold the fabric so it doesn't move as much as it would automatically (to shorten the stitch) or use the handwheel and tug the fabric a bit back to land the needle just beyond where it was going to pierce the fabric (makes the stitch a bit longer). Sounds like you know to leave the needle down, inserted into the fabric, when you turn the corner or change direction. That's important too for decorative stitching. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Let's say you are sewing a pocket down. You start at the upper left corner and sew down that left edge however far away from the pocket's edge. To get the stitching to end at the same distance away from the bottom edge in the corner you sometimes have to manually manipulate the length of the last stitch or two. To do that stop stitching with the foot pedal and move the wheel on the side of the machine to make a stitch. At the same time move your fabric a little forward or backward to get that needle to land just where you need it to and keep the needle down in the fabric. This is the important thing: to end with the needle down in the fabric. With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric to turn the corner of the pocket, lower the presser foot, and start stitching on the new side of the pocket. This is good practice for turning any corner whether or not you're topstitching it. I think this was what you were asking but if I misunderstood let me know and I'll try again ;-)
This is a really helpful video. I struggle with topstitching, even though I've been sewing for years. Do you have any tips for topstitching curved patch pockets? I've just sewn a couple and the topstitching goes awry on the curves :(
Curves are tricky. The usual thing to do is shorten your stitch length to make the curve smoother. I don't know how noticeable and/or distracting that would be in topstitching. I'm going to go through my references this afternoon and see if I can find any tips on that and I'll reply back as soon as I do.
@@TheDailySew Thanks so much for getting back to me. I didn't know that shortening the stitch helps to make neater curves, so that's already a great help!
@@pamela235 Ok, here's what I found out; The shorter stitch is recommended especially if your patch pockets are on garments like shirts and you're using. regular all-purpose thread. Try a stitch length between 15 to 18 stitches per inch or 1.5 to 1.0 mm and then use that same stitch length for all your topstitching on that garment. Also, slow down your stitching. Slow speed helps you stitch around the curve smoothly. When topstitching a straight edge you use some sort of guide to keep your topstitches "x" distance away from the edge. I usually use the outer edge of my presser foot. It doesn't matter what you use (be it a pressure foot or a line etched into the machine) the important thing is that when you are going around a curve the only accurate part of your guide is the spot directly across from the needle. not the front of the pressure foot or part of the machine guide an inch in front of the needle. Because of this, it is always fair to go ahead and mark the line you want to stitch directly onto the fabric with fabric chalk or disappearing fabric marker (test the marker on that particular fabric first) And turn the fabric with your hands as the machine is sewing the curve. I hope all this helps you get the most beautiful curved stitching ;-) I think now I'm going to have to make a video about topstitching curves. Thanks for your question and for watching this video.
@@TheDailySew It's exactly that the problem. I tend to look in front of the presser foot when I go round the curve, so it makes perfect sense to use a chalk line or other marker as a guide. I will also try making the stitches smaller. I will also try all the other tips you mentioned in your video. Today I tried putting a piece of fabric at the back of the presser foot when I start stitching and it worked so well. Thank you again for all your help and I'm sure a video on this would be really helpful for others. It's so frustrating to mess up topstitching when the rest of the garment turns out well.
@@pamela235 that's so true - all that work and then to have something at the end not work out is awful. I'm glad you found the tips helpful. I realize I do the same thing going around curves, I look ahead of the needle instead of beside it. Next time I'm going to draw a line right on my project. That seems the easiest and surest way to stitch where I want.
Typically velvet isn't topstitched but it most certainly could be. So there are many different velvets from the stiff cotton velvet to the slinky silk or rayon velvet and depending on what your sewing you'll want to adjust your stitch length. Use a shorter stitch length (about 12 stitches per inch) for the lightweight velvets and a little longer length (about 10 stitches per inch) for the heavier velvets. If you have an even feed foot or a roller foot use it when stitching velvet to prevent the bottom layer from creeping out of place. If you have the patience or a bend toward perfection, you'll want to hand baste your seams, or your layers before stitching/topstitching to really and truly prevent any puckering. For topstitching velvet: 1. TEST, TEST, TEST first 2. Sew with the nap - in the same direction as the nap (the nap is the way the pile lays. When you run your hand along the velvet it is smooth in one direction (the nap direction) and in the other direction, it isn't as smooth. That other direction is pushing up, or against, the little fibers or the pile. 3. Hold the fabric taut 4. Use a longer stitch length and loosen the tension a little at a time. 5. if the pressure foot is leaving track marks put a layer of tissue paper between the pressure foot and your fabric (gently tear away the tissue when done) Hope this helps. Remember to not press your velvet directly with the hot iron. Press it always on the wrong side and lay it face down on a plush towel or another piece of vevet so you don't crush the pile. Enjoy. Velvet is so lovely, I hope your project comes out beautifully.
Could I just ask a general question. I don't really understand the moving of the needle to the left or the right. Why not just line up where we need to sew. I have the facility on my machine but can't seem to grasp the point in moving to the left or the right. I feel I don't quite understand, or maybe I am looking into it far too much. Thank you for all the tips on top stitching :)
Great question. Moving the needle left or right of center just helps you line things up. Maybe you are able to line up the presser foot to a seam or a stripe or other such clear line but the needle needs to be a tad to the left or right to stitch where you want to. It's a convenience for those moments. For 28 years I used a sewing machine that didn't have that option and I survived and topstitched where I wanted ;-). I guess it's a "use it if you got it and you want to" feature but you certainly don't need it to topstitch.
Thank you so much for making this information available! You make me want to go back to the last video I watched on this and unlike it, because it's nowhere near as good as your video.
TIP: Use all-purpose thread in your bobbin. Topstitching thread is too thick for the bobbin in most machines. Since topstitching thread is for decorative purposes it doesn't really need to be in the bobbin.
Your needle selection was the best. I can't even begin to describe the frustration with the wobbly top stitch. I've watched so many videos and have never seen that. Thanks.
Thank you. It's all those little things, like the size of a needle, that really add up to make a difference.
Excellent! First of you’re videos I’ve watched, and I’m sold. 😊 Been sewing for decades (started at 11), but haven’t for just over 10 years now due to severe health issues, but I’m DYING to get started again, bingeing on sewing vids 🥰, because I’ve lost all my confidence, and its people like you that are inspiring me to start again. Looking forward to viewing more of your vids,. LOVED the painters tape tip especially, and bulking up the fabric to keep the presser foot straight. 👍🏾 Thank you, thank you, thank you........ I feel a subscription coming on..... 😆
Thank you. I know once you start sewing it will all come back to you.
@@TheDailySew 😊 Aah thank you. I hope so!
I've been struggling with topstitching for a while now and I've just learned so much watching your video. I didn't realize that using a correct needle and thread could make such a difference. Thanks very much for putting this together, it was so helpful!
Thank you. I really like topstitching and have seen a huge improvement in mine since switching to topstitch needles (or any needle made for woven fabrics like microtex or quilting needles when not using the thicker topstitch thread. Of course, I use these on woven fabrics ;-)
I just found you less than 24 hours ago, and oh how I've learned - THANK YOU. I appreciate your teaching style and your expertise.
Oh, excellent! I'm so glad you found the videos helpful.
Great advice and tips. Especially on needle choices. Much appreciated.
Congratulations! This is the best video for topstitching. You covered all the details in the most comprehensive way.
Wow, Thank you. :-)
As an experienced seamstress I had tried all the tricks in my bag when my feed dogs kept trapping my corners when topstitching practically on the edge. Then I came across your video and it saved me, spare piece of fabric to the rescue! Thank you
Yay! So glad you found a trick you can use. I read about this tip somewhere and found it really worked for me. Had to pass it on ;-) Thanks for watching
Keep the fabric level and get to know your machine like it's an extension of you. so yes, practice practice practice! thanks ;))
Love the tip about double thread. Great video. Thank you
Yes, 😀That's one of my favorite workarounds since topstitch thread only comes in limited colors.
Thank you - new-ish sewer here and this has been invaluable. Many thanks from Australia
I'm so glad this has been helpful. My number one tip is if your machine isn't working, rethread it. Just the top at first, then if still not working, rethread the bobbin too. Needle size makes a difference too so if you see skipped stitches try a different needle size (usually a bigger size). So happy to welcome a new sewer - we need more of us to catch up with the knitters (Confession, I'm trying to learn how to knit ;-)
You're an excellent teacher including how thorough you are in providing detailed instructions. Thank you.
Thank you very much :-)
I'm a new Sewing person, since my wife past away. I am learning and one thing that I saw will Help is when you mentioned doing a back-stitch for re-enforcement's. I will keep that tip to keep the end of the stitch neat without the extra bulk. You have presented your instructions in a very professional manner.
.
Thanks. The back stitch is a great stitch to know.
My condolences to you sir.
One of the better tutorials I've seen
thanks
Excellent video..especially the alternative to backstitching at the beginning and end of your piece.
Just found your videos.
Wow, my teacher missed a lot of steps and hw tells me not to use my clips, and he keeps a lot of information from me, I think with him it's all about the money.
I figured I spent a lot of money and time learning how to sew (fashion design degree) so why not share what I know? Just like I learn from other videos how to fix my vacuum. But some teachers teach in a way you just don’t click with. So maybe that’s the situation with your teacher? Hopefully I have some videos that will be interesting- and helpful- to you
Great video tips - top stitching tools and tips
Thanks!
This is a wonderful tutorial. I'm trying to learn how to sew, and it is so helpful. Thanks so much for great tips and explaining everything so clearly.
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful. Enjoy your learning and don't fear any technique you come across. You just have to be patient, willing to mess up, rip it out, and do it over. The worse thing that can happen is you may have to throw away some fabric (which doesn't feel good but it does happen).
Great video. I would love to see a video showing how to top stitch while catching an opening underneath that needs to be closed, leaving both the top stitch and the stitch underneath well caught and aligned on both sides. Please and thank you:)
Oh, interesting - I would like to make that video. Can you give me more specifics? What's going on underneath? Is the underneath inside the garment? Or would someone be able to see it? (being well aligned on both sides has me wondering) Where would I need to do this, on a jacket, shirt, pants, bag, and where on that thing, a pocket, a cuff, a secret pocket? Any clarification you can give would be helpful. Thanks
Really helpful. Thank you. Just the finishing threads tip is worth its weight in Gold :D
Oh, that's great. I'm happy when I can help someone enjoy their sewing (or results) even a little more. yay!
@@TheDailySew sometimes it is the little light bulb moments that just elevate your work. You just make things so easy to understand, which is not easy through a screen. MAny thanks.
Thanks for responding. I thought it would be too complicated! Yes, I know to leave the needle down when turning.
Tip 5 really helped me out just now. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
I’m so happy to hear that. 😊
Liked the info about the various threads and needles for top stitching.
That's good to hear. Thank you :-)
a very informative and helpful video. You explanations are very easy to understand. Thank you so much!
Thank you for letting me know:-)
Some great tips in this, thank you
Your videos are so well done and so helpful!
thank you
this video just makes me so happy! thanks for the helpful tips!
Thanks
Wow....what a great video that I came across....I learned so much...great tips
Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks!
Hello I am desperately trying to topstitch Ultrasuede and having trouble. I am using a roller foot...fresh sharp needle and setting my stitches for a long length. The fabric seems to be sticking and the stitches are coming out short and tiny. I plan to try a walking foot but not sure if that will do anything a roller foot can't do. Any suggestions please? Thanks in advance Donna from Canada
Sounds like a walking foot would help your stitches. It will evenly feed the fabric under the needle. Your roller foot should be doing this but it’s obviously sticking and making your stitches short.
I tried top stitching on some Ultrasuede scrap and had problems when my needle was too small. I also checked my fabric reference books in case there was anything else that might be helpful for your situation.
Use a universal needle (not a leather needle) starting with a small size and working up to a size 100 depending on the thickness of your Ultrasuede . My Ultrasuede is thicker (upholstery weight) and a size 80 skipped stitches and a 90 didn’t.
Set you stitch length to 2.5 - 4 mm or 6 to 10 stitches per inch for topstitching.
Skipped stitches are common with Ultrasuede but a walking foot, roller, or Teflon foot are recommended.
A last resort is to try loosening your machine’s tension.
freezer paper or any paper put under and or above fabric when sewing can be used or a Teflon foot
Quite helpful
. thnx for the good info
Thanks for watching. I’m glad it was helpful
Very good demonstration for top stitching. Thanks 😍
Excellent video!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thank you.
Very helpful!!!
thanks!
Fantastic video. Thank you xx
Excellent tutorial. Much appreciated.
Thanks.
Really great thank you needed the advice.
I was getting wobbly seams on some lightweight cotton, and could not figure out why. Thanks for the info in needles, problem solved!
Excellent! Sometimes I'm just lazy and don't want to change the needle that's already in the machine, and, yes, it can make a big difference in how your stitches look.
@@TheDailySew oh me too.
@@nancy9478 😁
Hi. Very helpful video. My question is: Do you adjust tension when you topstitch with topstitching thread?
Good Question. I do not. Adjusting tension is the last thing I try when things aren't working. I lengthen the stitch and I use thinner all-purpose thread in the bobbin - always. Only adjust the tension if you notice that top thread stitch is really taught. I guess I'm used to the mechanical machine I sewed on for 30 years - I didn't want to mess up it's tuned-in tension if I didn't have to. If you have a computerized machine (as I do now) you can easily adjust it to try if it helps and then hit "clear" to reset the tension if it doesn't help.
Great video tutorial! New subscriber. Blessings from Canada, Mary
Thank you, very much!
That was super helpful thanks!!
Great! Thanks
My construction seams look pretty *chefs kiss* level but my topstitches look wobbly. And only now do I know why. I need to up my needle game. All purpose is not best for everything!
I absolutely love that you recognize your skills. Sometimes you have to pat yourself on the back. But, yes, the right needle can make a difference.
Hello I have been fighting for days for the stitching on a bag. I use imitation and canvas. I tried everything: jeans needle 100,110, universal 100 110, gutterman polyester thread: my stitches jump and pass the thicknesses badly (I use a tool to help the passage of the thicknesses) ... I also tried size thread 40 + classic thread in the bobbin it's worse the thread curls in the needle and is too loose (my bobbin case even jumps!) I'm desperate..I've tried several tensions etc...on the sides on the bag especially when I have several types of thicknesses especially even by helping my crowbar the stitches jump... I damage my bags each time at the end when topstitching on the top of the bag. I have a janome skyline s5, do you have any advice please?
Hello, I had to do some research to see if there was anything I could suggest. You have tried so many things already. I'm so sorry you're feeling this frustration. I have some ideas:
1. Stick with a Jeans or Topstitch needle, not a universal needle.
2. keep an all-purpose thread in the bobbin even if you use heavier thread in the needle.
3. Use a slightly longer thread length, at least 3 stitches per cm or 6-8 stitches per inch.
4. Sew slowly
5. Are you sewing imitation leather? (You wrote "I use imitation and canvas") if so use a roller presser foot or a teflon presser foot or have the imitation leather on the bottom and the canvas on top as you sew. Fabrics like imitation leather or vinyl stick to the presser foot and that will really mess up your stitches. A roller or teflon presser foot are suppose to "glide" over sticky fabrics.
6. When you get to the end, don't back tack. Stop, leave long thread tails, pull the top thread to the underside and tie the tails together.
Hope you find something that will help.
I have a question. What stitch length should we use for topnstitching?
Topstitches are a little bit longer than construction stitches. I sew seams at a 2.5 stitch length so when I top stitch I set my stitch length to 3 or almost 3. I should have put this very good question in the video 🤦
@@ccpippin307 glad you finally got an answer, or at least a good place to start figuring out the answer (because every machine is a little different)
Loved the video. I am trying to perfect the top stitching technique for a bucket hat. I learned a lot fro your video. A question I wondered about is stitch length and tension so the bobbin thread doesn’t show through. Wha two I change. I have lengthened the stitch but is there more to adjust?
If your bobbin thread is coming up to the top the bobbin tension is either too loose or the needle thread tension is too tight and it's pulling the bobbin thread up. Nothing is an exact science so you're doing the best thing by testing it. If you are using thicker topstitch thread don't use it in the bobbin - use an all-purpose thread in the bobbin. And if it matches or is a little darker than your top thread it shouldn't be noticeable if it does come up a bit to the top. Sometimes a new needle, in the right size for your fabric, makes a difference too. I'm not sure if I said it in this video but some needles are new and just defective, so you can always try a new needle if your stitches are not right. (little nicks in the needle can catch that bobbin thread and drag it up).
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Hope this helps too.
That was very helpful tips,,
thank you
Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
You’re welcome! You’ve got a new subscriber :)
Great tips
Thank you
I have a question regarding the time spot 6:30 where you folded the extra piece of fabric to level out the foot. Does leveling out the foot make a difference with how the needle stitches the fabric? Because to my understanding I thought the foot was just to hold the fabric down so it didn’t clump while the needle stitched... I am a beginner btw please educate me!!
You're right the presser foot does hold the fabric down and if you accidentally forget to put the presser foot down you will have a mess of stitches. Opposite the presser foot are the feed dogs. They look like little rows of tiny teeth and they "grab" the fabric and pull it away from you as you stitch. The foot and the feed dogs work together feeding the top and bottom fabric through the machine.
When the foot isn't level (this happens when you go over a bulky seam or at the edge of thicker fabric) it isn't applying even pressure against the feed dogs. And when that happens your stitches might be tiny or extra long for a few stitches until the foot becomes levels again. On a seam that no one sees, while not ideal, this is ok but when it's topstitching, especially in a contrasting thread and in an obvious place, you want your stitches to be all the same length. Keeping the foot level just helps keep the topstitching looking good ;-) I hope that helps explain it better. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheDailySew thank you that makes allot more sense.
Great tips, thank you so much. Just one thing I struggle with - turning corners at exactly the right spot so the needle is in the perfect position to continue. I have to measure and mark dots where my needle needs to be before I pivot - is there an easier way to do this? Thanks.
Marking where to stop and pivot is the best way to get it exact. Some folks have a little gauge that is as wide as, or equal to, how far in from the edge they want to stop and turn. They then hold this up to the topstitching as they get close to the end so they know where to stop. You can buy this gauge ( I found one here so you know what I mean: www.connectingthreads.com/sewing-gauge/p/82719 ) or you could just cut a strip from an index card or file folder (something a little stiff) to use as a guide. For example; you want to topstitch along the edge until you are 1/2" away from the corner then you want to turn and stitch down the perpendicular edge. Cut a strip of stiff paper 1/2" wide. As you get close to the perpendicular edge, place that template (the paper strip), so it covers the last 1/2" of the line you're stitching. You will stop the needle, right at or before the paper, pivot, and stitch down the perpendicular edge. It's sort of like measuring in while you sew but a lot easier to see exactly where to stop than when using a ruler.
@@TheDailySew Thank you so much for your detailed reply - I've actually got one of those gauges, so I will definitely try it out, but I also really like the idea of a simple template.
@@trishaquinn7176 Me too. I forget about using homemade templates but they are really helpful. Sometimes tape, in the right width, (and tested on a scrap of fabric first) is a great template.
How do you turn a corner with decorative top stitching? ( to have the pattern end and begin a a good spot)
Well, there's some luck involved that your stitch length just works out ;-) but to manipulate where the needle will go back down into the fabric (at the point you want to change direction) you can turn the machine's handwheel to lower the needle and at the same time hold the fabric so it doesn't move as much as it would automatically (to shorten the stitch) or use the handwheel and tug the fabric a bit back to land the needle just beyond where it was going to pierce the fabric (makes the stitch a bit longer).
Sounds like you know to leave the needle down, inserted into the fabric, when you turn the corner or change direction. That's important too for decorative stitching.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
How to sew a topstitch for a coners on a vest or pocket?
Let's say you are sewing a pocket down. You start at the upper left corner and sew down that left edge however far away from the pocket's edge. To get the stitching to end at the same distance away from the bottom edge in the corner you sometimes have to manually manipulate the length of the last stitch or two. To do that stop stitching with the foot pedal and move the wheel on the side of the machine to make a stitch. At the same time move your fabric a little forward or backward to get that needle to land just where you need it to and keep the needle down in the fabric. This is the important thing: to end with the needle down in the fabric. With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric to turn the corner of the pocket, lower the presser foot, and start stitching on the new side of the pocket. This is good practice for turning any corner whether or not you're topstitching it. I think this was what you were asking but if I misunderstood let me know and I'll try again ;-)
This is a really helpful video. I struggle with topstitching, even though I've been sewing for years. Do you have any tips for topstitching curved patch pockets? I've just sewn a couple and the topstitching goes awry on the curves :(
Curves are tricky. The usual thing to do is shorten your stitch length to make the curve smoother. I don't know how noticeable and/or distracting that would be in topstitching. I'm going to go through my references this afternoon and see if I can find any tips on that and I'll reply back as soon as I do.
@@TheDailySew Thanks so much for getting back to me. I didn't know that shortening the stitch helps to make neater curves, so that's already a great help!
@@pamela235 Ok, here's what I found out; The shorter stitch is recommended especially if your patch pockets are on garments like shirts and you're using. regular all-purpose thread. Try a stitch length between 15 to 18 stitches per inch or 1.5 to 1.0 mm and then use that same stitch length for all your topstitching on that garment.
Also, slow down your stitching. Slow speed helps you stitch around the curve smoothly.
When topstitching a straight edge you use some sort of guide to keep your topstitches "x" distance away from the edge. I usually use the outer edge of my presser foot. It doesn't matter what you use (be it a pressure foot or a line etched into the machine) the important thing is that when you are going around a curve the only accurate part of your guide is the spot directly across from the needle. not the front of the pressure foot or part of the machine guide an inch in front of the needle. Because of this, it is always fair to go ahead and mark the line you want to stitch directly onto the fabric with fabric chalk or disappearing fabric marker (test the marker on that particular fabric first)
And turn the fabric with your hands as the machine is sewing the curve. I hope all this helps you get the most beautiful curved stitching ;-) I think now I'm going to have to make a video about topstitching curves. Thanks for your question and for watching this video.
@@TheDailySew It's exactly that the problem. I tend to look in front of the presser foot when I go round the curve, so it makes perfect sense to use a chalk line or other marker as a guide. I will also try making the stitches smaller. I will also try all the other tips you mentioned in your video. Today I tried putting a piece of fabric at the back of the presser foot when I start stitching and it worked so well. Thank you again for all your help and I'm sure a video on this would be really helpful for others. It's so frustrating to mess up topstitching when the rest of the garment turns out well.
@@pamela235 that's so true - all that work and then to have something at the end not work out is awful. I'm glad you found the tips helpful. I realize I do the same thing going around curves, I look ahead of the needle instead of beside it. Next time I'm going to draw a line right on my project. That seems the easiest and surest way to stitch where I want.
Would Love advice on velvet stitching
please
Typically velvet isn't topstitched but it most certainly could be. So there are many different velvets from the stiff cotton velvet to the slinky silk or rayon velvet and depending on what your sewing you'll want to adjust your stitch length. Use a shorter stitch length (about 12 stitches per inch) for the lightweight velvets and a little longer length (about 10 stitches per inch) for the heavier velvets. If you have an even feed foot or a roller foot use it when stitching velvet to prevent the bottom layer from creeping out of place. If you have the patience or a bend toward perfection, you'll want to hand baste your seams, or your layers before stitching/topstitching to really and truly prevent any puckering.
For topstitching velvet:
1. TEST, TEST, TEST first
2. Sew with the nap - in the same direction as the nap (the nap is the way the pile lays. When you run your hand along the velvet it is smooth in one direction (the nap direction) and in the other direction, it isn't as smooth. That other direction is pushing up, or against, the little fibers or the pile.
3. Hold the fabric taut
4. Use a longer stitch length and loosen the tension a little at a time.
5. if the pressure foot is leaving track marks put a layer of tissue paper between the pressure foot and your fabric (gently tear away the tissue when done)
Hope this helps. Remember to not press your velvet directly with the hot iron. Press it always on the wrong side and lay it face down on a plush towel or another piece of vevet so you don't crush the pile. Enjoy. Velvet is so lovely, I hope your project comes out beautifully.
Could I just ask a general question. I don't really understand the moving of the needle to the left or the right. Why not just line up where we need to sew. I have the facility on my machine but can't seem to grasp the point in moving to the left or the right. I feel I don't quite understand, or maybe I am looking into it far too much. Thank you for all the tips on top stitching :)
Great question. Moving the needle left or right of center just helps you line things up. Maybe you are able to line up the presser foot to a seam or a stripe or other such clear line but the needle needs to be a tad to the left or right to stitch where you want to. It's a convenience for those moments. For 28 years I used a sewing machine that didn't have that option and I survived and topstitched where I wanted ;-). I guess it's a "use it if you got it and you want to" feature but you certainly don't need it to topstitch.
Thank you for explaining it for me, it all seems a bit clearer for me now moving the needle a tad to the left or right. Makes sense now :)
Thank you so much for making this information available! You make me want to go back to the last video I watched on this and unlike it, because it's nowhere near as good as your video.
😈 Ha! Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Practice makes habits.