For those of who need all the information here is something that can help others. The multimeter is out of focus, so I Googled the multimeter model to see it in focus. The multimeter is set to 2K ohms for VS-E2 and VC-E2. It is set to 20K ohms for the temperature tests. Some multimeters drop the k on 2k, so it is written as 2000
just got done with this testing procedure ... it's important to do the last 2 tests (the dynamic tests) because in my case all the static tests listed in the FSM were 100% within spec but when I went beyond the FSM and did the dynamic test, manipulating the vane door, is when I saw where my problems were coming from. The test between E2-VS pins revealed multiple open/short readings in the sweep indicating a worn out resistive strip on the vane door meaning my AFM is toast and in need of replacement or refurbishment.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install the old one, it starts immediately and does not die. I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
For those of who need all the information here is something that can help others. The multimeter is out of focus, so I Googled the multimeter model to see it in focus. The multimeter is set to 2K ohms for VS-E2 and VC-E2. It is set to 20K ohms for the temperature tests. Some multimeters drop the k on 2k, so it is written as 2000
just got done with this testing procedure ... it's important to do the last 2 tests (the dynamic tests) because in my case all the static tests listed in the FSM were 100% within spec but when I went beyond the FSM and did the dynamic test, manipulating the vane door, is when I saw where my problems were coming from. The test between E2-VS pins revealed multiple open/short readings in the sweep indicating a worn out resistive strip on the vane door meaning my AFM is toast and in need of replacement or refurbishment.
You can make a testing subharness by cutting the wire harness end from the wrecking yard and using wire terminals from it.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install the old one, it starts immediately and does not die. I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
Thanks for posting this. Helpful.
The link is broken again. Can you please post? Thank you sir
Link is broken. Post another?
I got a replacement pigtail for the maf on my 93 4runner can you do a how to on that?
link is broken please post it again
Will this work for a 3.0 3VZE 95 4runner
It's not supposed to go higher than 1000 in the dynamic test. This one tests bad
Where can I find the instructions. I need it. For my 1gfe.
the FSM. or www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml. 4crawler has so much good info on the 22re.