Diesel Foundry Furnace Burner - Part 5 - Mission Accomplished
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- #metalcasting #homeshop #foundry
In this episode,
Fitting the fuel pump to the rigid conduit
Powder coating the switch enclosure
Upgrades and improvements based on viewer comments
Laser cutting and engraving the control panel
Making some castings using the completed burner and service cart
Preview of the next project series
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
One of my eagle eyed viewers noticed that I had inadvertently swapped the red and blue knobs on the control panel for the service cart. Of course, the red knob was meant to go on the fuel control and the blue knob on the blower control. I am sure this confused a lot of people but rest assured it has now been rectified. How embarrassing!
That was BY FAR the BEST furnace start sound clip you could have possibly chosen! 🤣🤣
The beautiful Bell Jet Ranger. I actually had a ride in one back in about 2008.
Regards,
Mark
Bell Jet Ranger
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Doddery old Brownie here… thought yo meself… “ Wow…. That is one noisy furnace eh?”
😂😂😂😂
Regards
Robert
PS Preso… that was a really great series 👏👏
Pls dub this sound in for starting all equipment in future videos 😂
As a fully paid up member of the Jet Noise Appreciation Society, your start up sequence gets toes and thumbs up. Great project.
I knew there would be some aficionados who would appreciate that sound clip. Well spotted.
Regards,
Mark
Mark
Thanks for your great videos.
The colour of your knobs is a personal thing.
Anodizing has it limits in colors
I have a maritime background and If you wish to use the correct maritime colour coding on your knobs.
The main colors used in ISO 14726 are as follows:
Black - Waste media
Blue - Fresh water
Brown - Fuel
Green - Sea water
Grey - Non-flammable gases
Maroon - Air and sounding pipes
Orange - Oils other than fuels
Silver - Steam
Red - Fire fighting
Violet - Acids, alkalis
White - Air in ventilation systems
Yellow - Flammable gases
The secondary colors are the same as above, but the identification of the pipe’s contents depends on what main color is used in conjunction with the secondary color. For example, the main color can be black for waste media and if the secondary color is blue then the contents of the pipe are identified as black water, but if the secondary color is brown then the contents are identified as waste oil. It’s still in the category of waste, but it’s a different kind of waste that may require a different handling procedure.
regards
G01 Sil
That's interesting. I knew that there was an international code and I did some volunteer work at the Brisbane Maritime Museum back in the 70's. I was working on the "Forceful". the last steam tug to operate on the Brisbane River. They were very meticulous in painting the engine and boiler room and you would see all the different coloured pipes. I can confirm that steam was definitely silver.
Regards,
Mark
This was such a great series, Mark! I'm feeling the furnace itch...
It's one of those projects where it just worked out. The blower capacity, the fuel pump displacement and the nozzle size turned out to be optimal and it is fairly easy to run. This hardly ever happens on other projects I attempt.
Regards,
Mark
That is definitely a useful burner. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
What a nice job, Mark. I liked the framing square on the bed of the laser cutter, a great idea. The furnace start jet engine sound effect.
I think your project turned out great. Functions and looks very good.
Thanks for sharing.
Love the Huey startup sequence!
Ha ha. It was actually a Bell 206 Jet Ranger. But I have a lot of respect for the Vietnam era Huey's. I read a book about an Australian Huey pilot who documented the rugged attributes for that type. Apparently they were incredibly resilient and capable of clearing vegetation with the rotor tips.
Regards,
Mark
"Oh and I wanna show you my knob too" :-D Hold on there m8, too much information! Brilliant build, thanks for sharing!
It is a nice knob though!
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 😄
Hey Mark,
The thread inside the cap is so you can screw one of those plastic taps into it and lay the tank on its side, the bung on the lower edge would the face up for an air relief.
Impressive knob, Presso. That turbine soundclip had me for a while 🙂.
Turbines are cool. I actually got to work at a Helicopter company for three days during my teaching career. It was regarded as "Industry Experience". I had a ball. I worked with one of their turbine engineers and we took apart a small turboshaft engine that was used to retrofit a Bell 47. Best time I ever had working with tools.
Regards,
Mark
Superb work and series Mark
Cheers Chris
Bravo! Mark, You have out done yourself, great attetion to detail!
Thanks, as they say, it's not how good you are, it's how good you look while you are doing it! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Wonderful! You are so talented!
I loved the turbine startup sound plus sound of igniters🤣
Ah, you recognised it. It was a Bell 206 Jet Ranger. Cool sound indeed.
Regards,
Mark
Very nice knob if I dont say so myself Mark!! Sounds like a dang rocket lol
As always, a very interesting video. Great progress Mark.
I nearly fell off my chair!!!!! A thing of beauty.😄😄😄😄
Another project that turned out very well.
Your attention to detail is a joy to watch.
And nice knobs too.
Thanks for sharing.
Ive enjoyed watching this 'overkill' build and every time I thought it was getting close to finished you found a way to make it even more slick. What a beautiful finished unit. The results are impressive and with all the time and planning of the design, I expect it will be hassle free for the rest of your life.
Any chance of casting a few more blanks for the drill press clamp. I've been dreaming of making one for many years after I discovered them when trying to improve school workshop dilling safety for the kids.
Id love to have a clamp for home use. Cheers for the videos.
I am afraid there is no money to be made from low volume casting manufacture. However I am happy to make the STL files available for the patterns. I also want to complete the build for myself first just to be sure the entire project is viable. You could make the jaws from solid steel or aluminium billet. I just wanted to use castings so they would resemble the originals.
Regards,
Mark
Very nice build !!
Great job and a very nice service-car !
If your projects doesn't reach the mark of 200% perfection you are definitely not satisfied.
Craftsmanship at its best !
Congrats Preso ! 😊
Thanks for that. I must say this was something of a dream build. Most times I will end up about 85% happy with the finished project but this one just works, for me anyway.
Regards,
Mark
Great video, throughly enjoyed it.
Hi Mark.
I designed a waste oil (vegetable oil from restaurants, etc ) burner 10 to 15 years ago. I was originally using LP Gas with forced air. Starting waste oil is a huge problem. It seems like the same as diesel? It looks like I have built a similar system as yours with a few changes. I was already using forced air on my LPG propane. So I only needed to add the waste oil line (60 deg hollow cone pattern tip) inside the tube and downstream from the original LPG inlet and forced air. This was great for starting the waste oil. I simply turned on the LPG gas. I let it warm up 5 min or so. Then I turned on the waste oil with the LPG gas still on. So I didn’t need to light it by hand. I had to adjust the air some, (but see below.) This really allowed me to heat it up fast. Once my walls are red I can shut off the LPG. Oil that makes it out of the nozzle unburnt and into the foundry self-ignites at that temperature. So once it is on, it is rocking.
However, I use air from a compressor to siphon waste oil from a container. I can control the amount of oil being sucked in as well as the amount of compressed air being pushed through. It worked great.
I stopped using it and went back to LPG as the oil was a mess. I found that after a few weekends of use the shop, my tools, the foundry etc were all coated with a light sheen of oil (At least it smelled like french-fries). This comes mostly in the form of sooty smoke. There are always shifts in combustion due to air flow as the foundry is opened, impurities in the oil, and sunspots. So it may be burring clean for 10 min then start putting out a little sooty smoke. I adjust the air and fix it. But that seemed to be a normal thing.
My refectory is mizzou 3000 or 3,500 deg (I don't remember). It is solid, thick and a pain to bring up to temp. I loved the oil but I hated the grease.
Lighting was easy with the LPG as the starter.
I love the sound!
With your success at speed I might try it again.
Thanks for the videos!
I did consider using waste oil but diesel is so much cleaner to handle and store. It's still relatively cheap and I can be confident it won't have any fine debris that might clog the nozzle. Lighting the burner does require a bit of finesse and sometimes I will have a flame out but it's easy enough to relight and slowly ramp up the air and the fuel. I have a small turbojet engine that I built many years ago and it's started with LPG to preheat the combustion chamber and the fuel inlet nozzles. After a few seconds you can slowly introduce the kerosene which will vaporise easily in the now hot core of the engine. It's essentially the same with the furnace and I had joked that the furnace is just one component short of a full blown jet engine, (the turbine). The sound clip on the end of the video was taken from a jet turboshaft helicopter (my little homage to the wonderful jet engine).
Regards,
Mark
Most desirable furnace I've seen. Wish I had seen this about 4 years ago before I retired, and could afford to build it. Thanks for the excellent series.
Now that is one very well built furnace, beats using propane hands down. I built one for propane, now I have a new project building a new burner for diesel fuel. Well done.
I am super happy with my diesel burner. I think I just lucked out on choosing the capacity of the fuel pump, the blower and the nozzle. It has just enough range of adjustment to make it efficient and controllable. It's also equally scary and exciting to use at the same time.
Regards,
Mark
another great series. thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next series
And I thought this was a family show...
Smashing project Mark, thanks
Great project Preso, lovely attention to many details, and so nice to hear you actually listen to, use and acknowledge you commentors. Enjoyed, cheers and happy casting!
I am always ready to adopt other people's good ideas. That's how we all learn from each other.
Regards,
Mark
Are you trying to cause us an OCD induced apoplectic fit by putting the fuel/blower switches at opposite ends to the blower/fuel knobs? Beautifully made, thanks for the video Mark.😅
Good work Mark. The control box came out really nice with the powder coating and the front panel. The machine works really well.
I too have had great ideas from my viewers. Sometime we get tied up in the build and we just don't think of something that would make the job easier, or the item better.
I shall have to convert you to the joys of powder coating 😁. I started out with a little toaster oven and it worked just fine. It's true that the comment section can yield better ideas than I can come up with.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark. Beautiful job and videos. Only criticism is that you did the test run with Aluminium. What is it like at melting cast iron. My thought on the furnace if starting from scratch would be to have a fixed crucible and tilt the furnace so as to minimise handling and pour the metal directly into the mould. I remember an old guy who made glass bottle moulds using a furnace like this although I never saw it in operation
Wow. What a furnace. Well done Mark. Such an interesting series. Thank you for sharing. 👏👏👍😎
Gday Preso, this has been a really interesting series, I thought there was a helicopter firing up when you started the melt, brilliant job mate and the logo finishes of the control panel beautifully, cheers
That would be the lovely Bell 206 Jet Ranger. I was given a ride in one back in 2008. We flew out over Laguna Bay in Noosa and then back over my house. We landed on the oval at Noosa District SHS. I arrived like a celebrity!
Regards,
Mark
Fantastic result!
Thank you! Cheers! Now I can melt anything!
Regards,
Mark
mate, a very professional turn out. I can't see an issue with a plastic fuel tank since diesel is not very volatile. If spills are a concern just keep a bucket of sand handy.
I have a fire extinguisher on the wall nearby. Let's hope I never have to use it.
Regards,
Mark
Unreal. Literally unreal. Well maybe not literally!! Small leak at the petcock maybe? Looking forward to the new clamp video. God Bless
Yes, there is a small leak and that is yet to be rectified. I think the taper just needs a little lapping. It was an old valve I had lying around.
Regards,
Mark
Excellent build series. Neat and tidy design. Hope theres plenty of melting metal/casting videos to come?
Cheers Kevn
Thanks Kevin. The next video will show the mould making and casting for the float lock vice parts.
Regards,
Mark
Good stuff, always a good job like usual.
Thanks for the great video series Mark. I love the yellow control plate.
There's nothing quite like hand-threading Delrin. It's like butter!
You had me going with the furnace start up. I really thought I was listening to yours. I am in aviation and I thought it sounds just like a turbine helicopter start up. Hook, Line, and Sinker - you got me. 😄 EXCELLENT work, Sir.
A Bell206! I love the sound of those turboshaft engines starting up.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, you are really thorough when you do something. Sounds like a jet taking off.
The power of the comment section. Always a great source of ideas and information.
And that burner is again a piece of artwork.
Thanks Michel. It's sometimes a good thing that the RUclips community keeps me on the straight and narrow. It doesn't pay to be too smug, there is always someone with a better idea.
Regards,
Mark
Very nicely built👍 something to be proud of and to enjoy using for years👏
And the amazing thing is that it just works. I am usually satisfied if I can get an 85% achievement rating on a finished project but this one was almost a perfect score. Somehow I just got lucky on all the purchases I made. That almost never happens!
Regards,
Mark
There are many ways to skin a cat, but I suggest that your pump mount is excessively elaborate.
I suggest that :
1. the copper tube should be flared at the pump end to prevent chaffing of the electrical wires as it exits the tube.
2. the mounting of the pump could be by way of a 6mm steel rod silver soldered to the pump end of the copper tube and in line with the tube, at one end and to a curved plate at the other.
3. the curved plate is to be a snug fit to the pump body and held to the pump by a hose clamp.
cheers.
Thanks. In hindsight, there were oversights and workarounds but the whole build was one big experiment. It's always a case of "do I now go back and review and rebuild the sub assemblies" but given that it just works as it is I don't really have the inclination to mess with it. I have used the burner a lot since completing it and although the lighting process can be finicky, once everything is hot it just works well and there is just enough capacity in the blower and the fuel pump to fine tune things to be efficient.
Regards,
Mark
“Ohh, and I want to show you my knob too.” 😂😂
What a fantastic series. Thank you Mark!
Really nice knob my friend...lol
Nice work Mark, looking forward to the float lock vise build ;)
im building a new furnace, im going to build a propane burner and a diesel burner, i like your design and going to try and mimic it with what i can find. thank you for the class i learned a lot. i hope it works for me
I hope it goes well for you. I think I was lucky with the balance between fuel delivery and blower capacity. If you over spec the blower on a diesel burner it gives you some extra capacity to get the flame to run lean. I find that I can ramp up the blower as everything gets hot. When it is truly running with a lean flame I get very little smoke and soot. In fact, the interior of the furnace is pure white at the end of the melt.
Regards,
Mark
Thank you Sr, I hope it goes well also, I'm just starting my fan now. the main part of the furnace is finished (minus liner) I'm just gathering parts as I can. Thank You for replying and the encouragement, most of all thank you for passing the knowledge on to others @@Preso58
Good Show Mate: As per normal. That was fun! You have nifty toys. I have some nifty toys but not as many as you. Looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks very much for such a great series Mark. I love the way you approach the challenges of design - "make it up as you go along" is the best way to go!
I believe it is called "iteration"! 😁
Regards,
Mark
OUTSTANDING!!!! EXCELLENT TOOL, impressive work as usual. But, always a but... you need a date on your badge.
Great build series. 👍👍 Cheers Peter.
Fantastic project Mark. Cast iron next?
One thing I did wonder about, should the fuel pump, pipework and airhose systems be earthed to prevent pickup of static? I know that the flash point of diesel is very high compared to petrol, but you never know.
Diesel in it's liquid form is almost impossible to light with a spark. Once it is forced out a fine nozzle as a mist you can ignite it that way but you need a very hot, fat spark to do it. The cart itself is earthed through the mains inlet for the power supply. One of the advantages of using diesel compared to say, petrol is that the vapour pressure is so low. The tank is also vented so fumes don't really build up inside it. In some ways it's probably safer than propane.
Regards,
Mark
Like watching your stuff. Fun and interesting.
This is fascinating. I only caught the last 2 vids, I'll be going back to see the rest. Have you covered how to make the kiln part of this as well?
Check the playlist ruclips.net/p/PLbPzkHRZCQB8ociKwdf6bd8CuSlviq2oV The first two videos cover the furnace build.
Regards,
Mark
Wonderful to watch!
You said that it took 15 mins to melt but I missed the exact of aluminium you melted in this video? The furnace is running a lot better than in part 4!
I guess it was only about 1kg of material but I find that once you get a puddle of molten material in the bottom of the crucible any added stock melts fairly quickly. I got the settings dialled in a bit better on the last melt. It takes a while for the furnace walls to stop absorbing heat and start radiating the heat back. Once that happens I can lean out the flame and it just seems to get hotter. Maybe one day I will be able to melt iron!
Regards,
Mark
I've got a video coming out shortly comparing my propane furnace to your diesel powered furnace.@@Preso58
For the slot in the Delrin part, hang the part from a drill bit through the center and resting on the top of the vise; use two same angle blocks in a v-block configuration on the base of the vise to ensure the correct orientation, and Bob's your uncle. Or said another way, trigonometry!!😁
There you go. I said I only had a little brain! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Another great project Mark.
I love it!
Well done Preso. SW Dweeb is a wealth of knowledge and I enjoy his channel too. Your set up looks very professional and works well.
Cheers mate, Stuart.
Thanks Stuart. Perry gave me the kick start required to get on and finish this project. I actually bought a lot of the stuff I needed over a year ago. Too may projects and not enough time!
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Haa, haven’t we all. That’s why I don’t post very often. Just to many things I want to get done 👍👍
Have you considered switching to kaowool as insulation? Lowering furnace mass would increase melting speed even more.
I recently had an (email) conversation with Luckygen1001 about Kaowool and he suggested adding some to the inside surface of my solid cast refractory just to lower the thermal mass. It's something to consider and if I ever have to replace the solid refractory I will probably do it that way. For the moment, the melt time is way better than I had previously so I am happy to leave it as for now. Maybe if I want to start melting iron.....?
Regards,
Mark
Sounds like the Batmobile when you fire up the forge. So, the Batforge??
That was a bit of artistic license. I borrowed the sound of a Bell 206 Jet Ranger Helicopter.
Regards,
Mark
Fantastic
The only thing missing on the cart is a dedicated place to store your hearing protection.
cool set up nice and compact.
I had CC turned on and at 9:11 there is an entirely appropriate caption. :-D Well done, and thank you for the recognition at the end. You are a prince mate.
No worries Perry. It was a fun build and it works like a charm.
Regards,
Mark
If a larger fuel pump required. Any suggestions? Keep up the great work
I am now satisfied that the fuel pump has just the right capacity for this burner. I used it just recently and I am now used to it and I can tune it to run lean once everything is hot. I managed to get my molten aluminium up to about 825C which is hotter than I would normally want to pour at but the burner is capable of doing it and I am sure it would be able to melt iron easily.
Regards,
Mark
Great build, Thanks! I don't think a plastic tank is a problem especially with diesel. Can you say what brand of the yellow faceplate material you use? I seem to get very mixed results with the dual color stuff like that.
That yellow sheet was part of a mixed pack of two ply plastic that I purchased from a seller on AliExpress. It's not the best material but it works OK. I have to clean it with a magic eraser and some cream cleaner to get rid of the black soot around the cut edges but it was cheap and I got a lot of it in one shipment. The better quality 2 ply plastics come from either Trotec or Alfex. I actually bought about 6 sheets from Alfex today shop.alfexlaser.com.au/product-category/duets-engraving-plastics/
Regards,
Mark
Well presented Mark. One Question. Your powder coating applicator. Where did you get that from, because all the eBay links give me a different gun than you are using? Any chance of a small tutorial about powder coating? Thanks in advance. Reuben
I bought mine from Caswell in the USA. www.ppcco.com.au/products/eastwood-dual-voltage-powder-coating-gun-with-accessories-starter-kit-ew33278k It was expensive but it has been quite reliable and it came with a good selection of powders. Mine was the single voltage gun (a bit cheaper) but if I were doing it over again, I would buy the dual voltage gun. I have done several videos on powdercoating. Check out this one ruclips.net/video/O2JgRoH6mdQ/видео.html
Regards,
Mark
I mentioned it on your last video switch to a metal fuel can
I do recall that but it could be difficult to find one which fits the cart and the riser for the fuel pump I have already made. I will probably make a heat shield to go over the top of the plastic tank but in reality, if you are spilling molten metal, puncturing the fuel tank is probably the last of your worries.
Regards,
Mark
Nice to watch
How do you think about having a breather on your tank
There is some clearance around the inlet to the conduit in the tank so it's unlikely to form an airlock.
Regards,
Mark
*"Impressive! Most Impressive!!!"* _Darth Vader._ 🔥🔥🔥
Mark, was "diesel" misspelled on the badge for a particular reason? (Did I miss a joke?) However, this has been a fantastic series and makes me want to build a diesel-powered foundry too. Yet another thumbs up!
The mis spelling was deliberate. Years ago I worked with a colleague who had a particular hatred for diesel powered cars and he always called them "disease-ls". I believe that there was a character on the "Thomas the Tank Engine" series called "The Diseasel". Again, I think it was a somewhat derogatory term for a locomotive.
Regards,
Mark
👍
Silly question but you have the fuel pump switch above the air control control (blue knob) and the blower switch above the fuel control (red knob). Isn't that a trifle confusing?
Not silly at all. You are absolutely correct. I have somehow inadvertently swapped the knobs around! It's an easy fix but it makes me look like a fool. Again, the viewers of RUclips have helped me out.
Regards,
Mark
Is your fuel tank fuel rated? ie is it an approved fuel container? its plastic - what happens if you drop the crucible ? or the crucible breaks as you lift it out ? will the tank survive being splashed with molten metal? safety factor?
I am guessing that if you drop a full crucible of molten metal you have bigger problems than worrying about your fuel tank.
Regards,
Mark
Trying to find the speed controller for blower , any ideas please.
I got mine on Ebay. www.ebay.com.au/itm/234863403664 I have linked to the one that I bought but it is listed as being out of stock. There should be others available from different sellers though. Try searching for AC 220V 4000W SCR Variable Voltage Regulator Speed Motor Fan Dimmer Controller
Regards,
Mark
can you make me one, and how much, I just do not have your skills and love your burner, thanks mate
You can actually buy most of the parts as off the shelf purchases. It's just a case of choosing a scale that suits your budget and workshop space.
Regards,
Mark
Mr Presling, have you checked how high in temperature it goes? Just wondering if it can melt iron/steel.
Yes we really need to know this !! Thanks for your time . Still learning 64 years and counting !
I am confident I could melt iron but the refractory is not rated for that temperature. If I ever have to replace it I will use something capable of 1350C. There is a castable refractory called Pyrocrete 165 which will go to higher temperatures than 1350 but I used the cheaper Pyrocrete which is good for aluminium, brass and copper. I think that only real men melt iron and I am happy to stay with non ferrous metals for now.
Call me a chicken!
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Ah very cool. So it’s capable. Thank you.
Hi Mark, were did you get the pyrometer from?
I cobbled it together from a hand held digital meter like this one www.ebay.com.au/itm/385574500733?epid=9020140417&hash=item59c607f97d:g:uOUAAOSwklZe9BO8 and I fitted a K type thermocouple on the end of a long aluminium tube with a small round stainless steel heat shield to protect the signal wire. It works very well but a stainless steel tube would be better. You can't leave it in the furnace for too long or the tube will melt.
Regards,
Mark
that sounded like an astazou engine start
It was a Bell 206 Jet Ranger. I believe they use an Allison engine. All jet engines are cool though.
Regards,
Mark
Hey Mark, do you think any primus stove design can work to do this kind of thing?
If you are referring to the kerosene fuelled stoves, the jet sizes are probably too small. Also, they rely on a preheat to vaporise the fuel. We used to have one that needed to be heated with methylated spirit first. If you were to scale up the entire assembly you might get enough heat for aluminium but it might be difficult to control the flame.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Okay SIr, I saw regular acetylene torches have finer control of everything related to the burn of the specific gas. If retrofitted and handled the right way, I guess there can be some potential on the legendary primus stove design.
Mark, I notice you don't pour molten metal wearing flip-flops like those guys in the Pakistan videos! lol
Safety first! I watch those videos too.
Regards,
Mark
And here I was expecting to see your mug on a disk.
I don't want to scare the kiddies! I have been told I have a good face for radio.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Yes ,yes it is.🤣😈
What is the advantage of a Diesel furnace compared to a Propane furnace ?
The main advantage is that diesel fuel has a much higher energy density than propane. Propane may have a higher calorific value but it is less dense as a gas than liquid fuels like diesel. However, propane does burn cleaner and it's easier to ignite. It will also burn without requiring an auxiliary blower.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 So your goal is to create higher temps faster ?
@@sierraecho884 It's mostly so that I can melt non ferrous materials faster. Using my old propane burner it would take nearly an hour to melt brass which is a long time just standing around monitoring the furnace.
Regards,
Mark
Can you tell me what the largest crucible that will fit in this furnace? Is it acceptable to cast 6061T6 aluminum?
I have a #8 crucible which can hold 8lb of aluminium. I could fit a much bigger crucible in the interior but you still need space around the circumference of the crucible so you can extract it with the tongs. I could probably comfortably fit a #12 though. My understanding is that wrought aluminium like 6061 is not the best material to make castings from. It will melt and pour well and I have added scrap 6061 to the melt for some less critical castings. The T6 refers to the heat treatment process used to post process a casting or an ingot of aluminium alloy. I did buy some pure ingots of 601 series aluminium which can be heat treated to T5. It is really nice material to work with and it machines well and it has good corrosion resistance. I paid about $5 per kilo for it and I bought it from a foundry in Brisbane. I paid cash and the guys even helped me to load it into the car. The worst material is anything that has been pressure die cast. I once melted an old lawnmower base and it was the worst casting I had made and almost impossible to machine.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thank you. After watching your video's I have decided I really want to build this. I work for a diesel fired hydronic heating co so I think I have the nozzles. Can you suggest how tall the furnace is including the lid?
@@rufustoad1 Check out this link. It has a 2D drawing of my current furnace with dimensions. www.dropbox.com/s/j7bopx7noxi96vn/Mark%27s%20Foundry%20Furnace.pdf?dl=0
Regards,
Mark
Today's Headline: "NSW Man Arrested For Showing His Knob"
That's good because I live in Queensland! But I know what you mean, those Mexicans from south of the border are a dodgy lot! 😁
Regards,
Mark
RIP headphone user @ 2:15
20:38. Sir, this is RUclips. You can't be showing that here! I have to admit, though, it is a nice knob!
Who doesn't like a nicely formed knob?
Regards,
Mark
Hopefully you will not be using Bio diesel. Bio diesel does not like copper or Zinc or its alloys, they corrode (worse if the diesel has a high sulphur content) and become brittle and then crack and fail. This why auto manufacturers use stainless steel in the fuel modules. Mind you I'm not sure what fuel in Australia does not contain Bio these days. Maybe farm (red) Diesel?
No, I am not using bio diesel. Having said that, I am not a diesel expert. All my cars have been petrol burners and I only recently purchased a Kubota tractor with a 3 cylinder diesel engine. I did notice that the insulation on one wire that I had previously run to the fuel pump had disintegrated. It had turned soft and was quite swollen. I don't know why it behaved differently but I replaced it anyway. I believe that bio diesel uses sodium hydroxide as a catalyst which may explain some of the side effects.
Regards,
Mark
Ha first again !
Woo !
John 🇨🇦
"I want to show you my knob as well".
*shakes head*
But I really think that the fuel pump should have gone to 11.
It actually does. I somehow got the engraving marks a bit short of the true travel for the knob. Some say it's a "hidden feature".
Regards,
Mark
Lasercutting a jig to align a piece of plastic no one will ever look at again, that isn't required to be precise? Now you're just showing off. I know you've got glasses but your eyecrometer can't be that bad than you couldn't have gotten it within a degree or two of centered. You're making the rest of us look bad Mr. Presling.
Laser cutter to the rescue. Great for those of us that can't do trigonometry!
Regards,
Mark