Quick Tip: Easily Cut Plywood With The Kreg Rip-Cut
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2013
- Great projects start with high-quality cuts, and you can make those cuts - more easily than you ever imagined - using your circular saw plus the Rip-Cut™ Circular Saw Edge Guide.
The Kreg® Rip-Cut turns your circular saw into a precision edge-guided cutting tool that makes straight, accurate, repeatable cuts in plywood, MDF, and other large sheets. With the Rip-Cut circular saw guide, you can cut with the confidence you want and the precision you need.
The Rip-Cut easily makes straight, accurate, repeatable cuts without measuring, marking, or having to keep the saw on the cut line. The Rip-Cut does this with a long edge guide that follows the straight edge of the sheet you are cutting. All you have to do is lock the saw in at the measurement you want - up to 24" - using the built-in measuring scale, and then make your cut.
With a built-in measuring scale, you don’t have to measure and mark each cut, either. Just lock the saw sled at your desired cut width, and you're all set, whether you need to cut one piece or make multiple pieces of the exact same size. Plus, the Rip-Cut makes it easier to cut down large sheets by yourself.
The Rip-Cut circular saw guide is very easy to use. Simply mount your saw to the Universal Sled - it accepts most left-blade or right-blade saws - and then slide the sled onto the aluminum rail. After a simple one-time calibration, you can lock in your cut width (up to 24") using the measuring scale and precision cursor. Then, just hold the edge guide against the edge of your sheet as you guide the saw. You’ll get straight, accurate, repeatable cuts easily every time.
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....... rigid foam, types of blade / teeth count and the rotation of the blade....... simply AWESOME TIPS.
I'd never thought about the rigid foam bit. Actually a good idea.
Very helpful when you talked about the differences in the blades, and the tip about using the foam was great. Thanks.
if only they teach like this in classrooms
The Rip-Cut is designed to follow a straight edge. If you don't have one good edge, and if you're cutting narrower than 24", you could lay a straight 1x4 or 1x2 alongside the sheet and let the guide arm follow that. You'd need to have your sheet and your 1x both supported underneath--possibly using a piece of scrap ply and screwing the 1x to it.
I like my rip cut the most when you set it up as described and demonstrated on this video. Trust and pay attention to what you are doing and you will produce cuts that are accurate and boards easy to handle. What a time saver that is so easy to use. I love it and recommend it to you!
Thanks...after watching this I ran out and bought one....there's a longer story to this but that's for another time...Thanks, this was really helpful.
One of the most helpful videos for this old do it "yourselfer". Great to the point and the tip about using foam board was great.
Genius foamy idea. Looks like I'll be adding that to my next Lowe's trip.
This was an informative video about sawing plywood and using the Kreg Rip-Cut jig.
Nice you tell about blades differences and about other saw tips. Cool.
Terrific video: well-conceived and well-presented. I already have the nice blades, but you've persuaded me to get the Rip-Cut and some rigid foam! Great ideas. Thanks.
Wow, great video. I need to pick up one of those Rip-Cuts!
very cool, need too pick a rip-cut someday soon
This video is awesome. I love the foam idea, gotta try that.
great video , i got a few good tips from this . keep up the good work kreg tools
This tool is fantastic. I do a lot of this type of work and this tool is awesome. I brought it and wondered if it would be flimsy. But its aluminium guide rule is very strong and the plastic parts are really well made. Used it on job today and it halved the time id normally spend setting up straight edges. Thanks for this brilliant tool.
I discovered Kreg a bit over a year ago when I had to rebuild kitchen cabinets that were demo'd out after a minor flood - long story. I could not have done it properly without the pocket hole jig. Since then I have bought the crosscut station and the crosscut guide. The crosscut guide is my new favorite while rebuilding a deck floor; I now have the hang of using it one-handed. I'll be buying the Rip-Cut today, and hoping my favorite hardware store (Homco... good prices, lots of expertise in all home hardware fields) has one in stock. The Home Depot (ugh!) app says they have them in stock if all else fails.
This is one of the most informative videos I have ever seen. I would never have thought about the rigid foam insulation. I will be doing quite a few rip cuts in the next few weeks and will certainly get the Rip-Cut and rigid foam before I start. Failing to get the rigid foam, I will assemble a frame of 2x4s for the purpose.
Well Done! Great Job....
Good boy. Rolled up the sleeves.
thanks I like the foam idea.
Excellent video
excellent tips
The Rip-Cut will accept most circular saw--6-1/2", 7 1/4", and smaller trim saws.
very helpful
Awesome
good video
Rigid foam is a great idea
The rigid foam was a great tip, I've always struggled ripping big sheets, $31 at home depot.
Do your wanna breath in fine foam dust though?
@@user-wq6hr9xi2n If you're breathing in fine plywood (with adhesives, no less) sawdust already it is hardly any difference. California, under Prop 65, declares fine sawdust a carcinogen.
Hi. New to woodworking but i'm learning a lot about squaring boards for joining and I was wondering if and how I could use the kreg rip cut to do so. thanks in advance.
@ Daniel y Henrry asta donde se se le conose como insulacion y la pueden encontrar en cualquier tienda donde venden matrial de construccion (home depo or lowes)
Thanx I'm so gonna get one of these. I can never cut a straight line ;(
I'm confused on the 2 slots. Does the motor always go towards the outside guide?
Hola, me podrian decir de que material es lo que esta debajo de la madera cuando la corta, osea lo que colocan entre la mesa y la madera, gracias.
Can you make 45 degree rip cuts to make French Cleat strips?
What other solution can you suggest?
Are those french cleats on that tool wall?
I should've seen this vid before I messed up my first 10 cuts.
What jig do they have to get a non straight cut so say a piece of ship lap on a unlevel ceiling or floor where ome side is 10" and the other is 10 1/2" ? Does this do that by changing the direction of the guide or is that the long straight 48" track guide. Always wanted to know if this was only capable for straight cuts.
How is the red indicator calibrated or set on the Rip Cut, this is a very important factor to know.
Calibration is covered in detail in the product manual. You can also see how it works in this video: ruclips.net/video/vgCncJ0N0gs/видео.html
Good review and some great tips. However, there is one very important thing you missed. How do you setup the blade to align with the red indicator? Thanks
Exactly! Pretty pathetic that they don't show you the most crucial step.
Set your saw up on the ripcut and make a 3-6” cut on a scrap piece of wood. Measure from the end of the wood to your cut. Now with your saw in the same position there is a fine adjustment on the clear plastic that you can slide over to the measurement of the initial cut you made
ruclips.net/video/vgCncJ0N0gs/видео.html
what happen if i don't have one good edge. ?
I love the idea of supporting your work with the foam sheet. I've never seen that before. But how much does your saw blade extend below the wood? Thanks.
Art Hall Nevermind. Watched it again and saw where you point that out.
es una plancha de espuma rigida
what exactly is that foam. I don't remember ever seeing anything that thick
+niqhtt Before you can begin cutting, you need to make sure that your sheet is well-supported. This will prevent the piece you are cutting, as well as the remaining part of the sheet, from slipping or falling. It will also help you to maintain better control of the cut. When you’re using a circular saw, a sheet of 2"-thick rigid foam insulation (available in home centers) provides great support. Lay the foam on the ground or a sturdy work surface, and then place your sheet on top of it. The foam supports your sheet, giving you two free hands to control your saw. As you cut, let the saw blade cut into (but not through) the foam.
@@KregToolCompany you just answered my question on the 2" thick foam
I have watched a lot of these videos. No one goes into dept as to how to set this up with a circular saw. I was on Amazon and read the reviews. I found 2 others like me and we all have DeWalt 7 1/4 saws. I have model # DW358. The other guys had different model numbers. But they are all DeWalts. Not sure about there's but on mine, the bottom plate at the front of the saw is angled upward. So it does not sit in jig flush. So do I need to get another brand circular saw ? It does say it will fit most circular saws. And as luck would have it not mine.
My saw has same thing. If you flip that little grey piece at the front upside down it has ridges that are angled upward to compensate for this. It sits perfectly flush now. Hope that helps and makes sense
What is the minimum width cut you can make? Also, will it work with a 5 1/2" B&D circular saw?
+Brandywine6969 Please get in touch with Technical Support directly at 800-447-8638 or online: www.kregtool.com/customer-service/contact-us.aspx?source=2264. for specifications on this product. Thanks!
Great video! How thick is the foam board you are using?
We use 2 inch rigid foam insulation. You can learn more in this video: ruclips.net/video/_TjjeNQteRA/видео.html
@@KregToolCompany thank you! I just bought a panel from Home Depot!
I'm not sure what has been happening, but my saw will bind about halfway through the cut. My plywood sheet is on the rigid foam for support.
Please contact Technical Support at toll-free 800-447-8638 or technicalsupport@kregtool.com. They will be happy to help with this. Thanks!
I have a Dewalt DCS391N. The 'sled' keeps slipping off. I think its tightly screwed on but as soon as I lift the saw, it just comes loose. I've got the saw tight against the RHS adjusted 'edge stop' plastic block but again, when I move the saw, it just moves away from the block. I've tried both holes for the fixing arms.
If I screw it even tighter, the bottom of the Kreg shed just angles away from the bottom of the saw, so obviously stressing the plastic and I assume that is not correct. I'm going to have to improvise to increase the grip of the Kreg on the Dewalt (maybe some tape) unless you (or anyone with the same saw) have any suggestions?
Hello, sorry you are having difficulties. Please contact our Technical Support Team so they can help troubleshoot and provide replacement parts if needed: kregtool.com/help
Every video I've seen this been used is on a powered circular saw. Will this fit on cordless saws, or was not designed cordless saws?
For more information on compatible saws, contact Technical Support at 800-477-8638 or technicalsupport@kregtool.com
Kreg Tool - Thank you.
I have a small Ryobi One + with a 5 1/2” blade. It works fine with it.
Will this work with a 4 1/2 inch circular saw?
That saw will be too small to fit. The Rip-Cut will fit most 6-1/4 and up corded or cordless saws. To see if it will fit, you will need to have at least 5/8" of open and free space on the front of that base plate and that saw plate can not be more than 3/8" thick so the swing arms of the sled can clamp down.
Will this work with a Skil worm drive saw-Mag77?
No
Jump to 4:00 to actually watch the device being used.
So do you get a $40 dollar credit toward the cost of the 3" foam board that makes this system work? You are literally cutting off your reference edge as you go.
Seriously, though. how may of these foam blocks will we go through in using this Kreg product through our lifetime? Is it possible to get acceptable results without the foam? How toxic is that foam that we are pulverizing and making airborne?
I know you're trying to sell the product but I have to call foul. You'd need to clamp the board down and with the jig I don't see an easy way to clamp the board down. The jig will hit it. The best for circular saw IMO is a home made rip fence. It's safe and absolutely accurate.
+steve noe Why would you need to clamp it down the piece used looked like it was a 4x4 sheet, I cut plywood and many other types and with a sheet that big I have never had to clamp it down
It's not necessary to clamp the piece your cutting, unless it is a personal preference. I used a 4x8 piece of foam with a 4x8 sheet of plywood, no clamping required.
Ear protection is needed for circular saw use.
The ending cut is not straight because the plastic guide runs out before the blades finishes the cut. Bad design.
My saw was through the plywood while the guide was still touching.
The blade will make it through the material before the guide is even close to halfway through.
The problem with this is your cut is only as straight as the edge your referencing. There are other way better solutions out there. Kreg you should have skipped this one.