I haven't finished watching this video yet, I paused it say this..this is how a referenced video should be like! Well done my friend!! You should be nominated for an Oscar! Thank you!
Great video. Pro tip: everytime you need to re-thread a screw into plastic (especially thread cutters) back thread it until the screw drops into the threads. Then you can tighten without worrying about accidentally cutting new threads.
I absolutely love my Kreg rip cut. Take the time to set it up and learn to use it and you will be amazed at the accuracy of the cuts you can make with this incredible tool ❤
Just bought one today. Had no clue until I saw your demo. Prime example of How to instruct/demo. Wish more RUclipsrs would Go into details like you have.
I picked up this at Lowes and didn't realise it had been opened. Not sure if unopened "boxes" are supposed to have instructions, but mine surely didn't and the Kreg RUclips channel certainly didn't help. You, my friend, gave such comprehensive instructions that I was able to set this thing up in minutes. I can't wait to do my first cut with it tomorrow (and thanks to your advice, I'll start by cutting a piece of scrap wood to ensure the tool is accurate. Thank you so much for this video!
I just mounted my Milwaukee M18 Fuel circulation. saw to the sled. I had to make a slight modification to my saw base because the R.H. hold down screw interfered with a rib on the top R.H. side of the saw base. I simply filed a 30 degree bevel on the rib until the hold down assembly swung freely. Without doing this the saw wouldn't sit flush against the slide base. Now it works perfectly. Excellent review and video.
Used this Kreg jig a couple years ago to turn 10 sheets of 3/4" plywood into custom shelving for a 12' x 15' closet we built onto the back of a customers home. That alone made this jig worth every penny spent. I don't like using table saws, just not practical to haul around with you. With the Kreg Circular saw guide, you don't need one. Lets you rip virtually any size you want off of a 4' x 8' sheet of whatever material.
@@randykerg9083 mine survived the moving truck from Texas to Florida and now it's thrown around in the back of the work van. Still works. I would usually agree with plastic being synonymous with cheap garbage but the Kreg stuff is pretty hefty.
When reinstalling course screws you should twist them backwards until you feel the screw lines back up with the threads. Use this in any plastic or wood screws you need to reinstall.
thanks for the review. Good job. No wasted conversation or extraneous talking is good as well. I think you have a future as a reviewer. Get sponsors now.
I have to cut 1/2 inch off the wood, and I was nervous that I couldn't do it with the rip cut. Thank you for addressing this in your video. I will go practise now!
Thanks, your video was super helpful in setting mine up. One correction is to hold the plastic guide using the provided cutout hole. The circular saw will derail at the end of the cut if you hold it by the aluminum as you suggested.
So helpful thank you. I bought this to cut plywood into shiplap but now my first job has to be trimming down a wood screen door so again thanks and wish me luck. 👍🏻
5 лет назад+3
Thank you for the honest and objective review. My shop/garage it too small to break down a 4 x 8 sheet and I hate searching for someone at home depot or lowes who can do it for me. So at first glance I said to myself I want one. There are just too many compromises to an otherwise great tool. I'd gladly pay more for aluminum or steel version. Until Kreg comes up with one I'll just keep clamping my homemade straightedge to the full sheets in the driveway. On the bright side you just gained a new subscriber.
Excellent. Thank you. This was an excellent review and the setup. I just bought the Rip Cut and used this tutorial for the setup and everything worked out 100%. Great job, it was most helpful!
Can you set the saw to 45 degrees? Do not have a table saw and wanted to rip plywood strips to make cleats for a French Cleat system. Figures to make a 45 degree cut on the edge then move blade to 90 degrees to cut off the cleat then move back to 45 for the next cleat. figured the guide would make it straighter than a free hand cut. thanks for all your info.
This is an outstanding, and very thorough walk-through and review of the Krieg Rip Cut product. This helps me make an informed decision! Thank you so much for your hard work and diligence on this product!
Finally someone with an honest review...I think the pocket hole jig and the RIP cut were pretty good ones even though some aspects of the jigs were not clearly thought out at all lol..buying an ACCU cut from them about ruined me of the brand entirely.
Great video just bought one having problem with it I have a Dewalt DCS 391 saw and when I go tighten the screws the back end rises of the saw and it doesn't sit flat it says my saw is compatible What can i do?
I've had the back end of the base plate droop away from the shoe a little on a few saw models I've used this with, but was still able to get good cut results with it. First check to make sure that gray insert in the front edge is flipped the right way if you have a sloped front shoe. Then back of a little bit on the set screw pressure and see if you can get it to still hold securely.
There’s no way to prevent it from leveraging the sled away from the saw base on my saw, regardless of which way you put the filler strip. As soon as the set screws even just contact the saw base, the sled immediately cants downward. I think you just have to accept that a bit of down pressure on the saw flattens the flimsy sled to the saw while you cut. I haven’t even tried mine yet and already I can see it’s poorly designed, even if it can make straight cuts.
hey man, great job on this review. pros / cons nad you're very clear in speaking and made this an easy choice for me beginning my DIY stuff. thanks so much.
In Oz I could have saved $35 buying a Chinese version. I bought the Kreg assuming the guide was made of an alloy mostly because it looked like it was, was not mentioned it was el cheapo plastic and also because here in the land of the rip off this item is AU$90. Kreg, this item is below your usual quality. Pleas get back on track.
I already own this. I'd like to perhaps purchase the circular saw track as well. Does the sled that you attach the saw to the same as the one sold with the Kreg circular saw track product? And if you already customized your saw to the sled on this Rip Cut product, then will you have to readjust it to work with the Circular Saw Track, or will it be the same when going back and forth between the two Kreg tools?
The sled has been compatible with both the Rip Cut and the AccuCut since Kreg introduced the AccuCut mid 2017. If you bought your Rip Cut before then, I don't think it will be compatible, but the AccuCut comes with a sled that will be compatible with both anyway. You'll need to set the sled up on the AccuCut first since it has the zero clearance strip that must be trimmed. The Rip Cut has an adjustable cursor, so you set that up second. Then you can use your saw mounted on the same base plate for both cut guides.
Very informative video. Great suggestions for a future models as well. I’m glad you added that you were able to get down to a quarter inch even though it’s not suggested.
If you use the video's recommended trick @6:36 to line the saw blade up against the blue guide rail and then set the cursor to match the guide rail exactly, it will not take into account the width of the blade kerf and thus always cut your measurement short by the width of your blade kerf. If your kerf is 1/8, then move the cursor 1/8 in, etc. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right, so please correct if I'm wrong. I would recommend placing the cursor on the inside of the kerf. Either way, the video offers a good suggestion about how to make sure everything is calibrated with the 1.5" cutoff trial.
No, my method accounts for blade kerf as long as you're ripping your "keep" piece off between the blade and the guide. If you cut with the keep piece on the other side, you'll have to constantly adjust the width setting to maintain consistent width pass after pass. The only time you need to factor in blade kerf is when your keep piece is wider than 24". Then you do need to factor in kerf.
FANTASTIC review. Thorough, offers a great alternative to the instructions as far as set-up... and answers all the most predictable questions for unique situations (i.e. I specifically wanted to know if and how to safely make a sub-1 inch cut. Thanks so much.
There is no way for me to clamp my workpiece down without the clamps being in the way of the tools path. That alone renders this tool useless to me. What do I do now? I'm cutting 36inch long and 10 inch wide. 3/4 inch oak.
If the holes do get worn out in the plastic from being switched a trick I've learned is use a toothpick and some gel super glue and use the toothpick to smear the gel around the threads and it kinda fills em back in. Gives em a bit more life but the captive nut would have been 100% better.
I appreciate your straight-forward and to the point review. I hate having to go through a whole lot of nonsense like on so many others. I couldn't agree more with your comments on the rip-cut. Thanks for making this video! I'm going to check out your other reviews.
I had one from Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) that is all aluminium and much easier to set up, but the rip fence is extremely small and only about 4 inches long. It does ok, but on wider cuts it's more prone to movement and because the fence is so short, it runs off the end of the board before the saw does, so the last 3 inches of your cut is free-handing. I just bought this Kregg. The plastic seem flimsy and it's more awkward to set up. But once done, it makes very good cuts and the huge fence keeps saw stable and "under guide" right to the very end.
Thank you! Used this to set up my Kreg Acu cut. Needed it to make accurate cuts in sheet goods. Between that product and a new Diablo blade, it works great. I was worried about trimming the 1/32nds part. I also have an older worm drive circular saw and attached fine
Found a saw it does not fit, 60v Dewalt worm drive. The blade guard hangs and pushes the sled off the shoe. Also the miter adjustment on the saw makes it next to impossible to tighten down the second screw. Was able to modify sled by cutting away some of the plastic by blade guard but the hold down is questionable.
Make a grab handle that fits the rail at that location you suggested to grab the guide rail. A very good evaluation of this product. I bought the accu guide and now will get hold of the rip guide as well.
What is your KregTool 'Rip Cut' jig's model #? I have a different model (perhaps an earlier version) that does not have three (3) features: 1. a hand slot on the straight-edge guide 2. capability to add a 'stop block' 3. no removable plate to accommodate the saw's base plate/shoe
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I was debating whether or not to buy one for some cabinets I’m planning to make and I don’t have room to purchase a table saw which I won’t use often. Clear explanations and great camera set up in the video. God bless you sir.
I have a bunch of Wainscot (5/16"x7"x34") to rip; do you think the Rip-Cut would be helpful or is it really meant for 4'x8' sheets? Though your video was very informative I wish it had addressed how to use the Rip-Cut with the wood clamped down (since the clamps get in the way of the ruler). Nice job!
Yeah, this would be great for that. When I cut something that's too light to rely on friction to hold it in place, I use hot glue, a router mat, or double sided tape to hold it in place. Depends what I'm cutting for which of those I use.
Great Video. I found an older model without the stop and slot in the guide for the purpose of ripping one 20-foot deck board. I think this will be after than using a table saw.
I am a new woodworker with a tiny shop, which item would you choose between the Rip-Cut or Accu-Cut? They seem to do a similar thing. I only cut plywood to make small shelves for french cleat storage, nothing fancy. Thanks ! And… good video btw!
If you're doing French cleats, you'll need to bevel. I know that can't be done with the Accu-Cut, since you'll run into the aluminum rail with the saw blade. You might be able to do it on the Rip-Cut, but will depend on if you saw has enough clearance for the blade guard. I always use my table saw for bevel cuts instead.
I bought this early last year and like it, but I do have some issues with it. 1 like you said seems cheap. 2 does flex some too. 3 not a good.cut at the very end, I draw a line at the end to continue.the cut to get a continuous straight line.
Greetings from the UK. Thanks for a useful and interesting review. Agree about the material for the sled and it would be good if there was a handle (even if just a knob like on the front of a plane), that clipped onto the rail above the guide.
Great video, appreciate the detailed explanations and comments. One question, at around the 5:34 mark when you are connecting the rail to the edge guide, does your orientation for a left side (or right) agree with the instruction manual?
You can set it up on either side independent of your left/right saw blade configuration. You are correct, the Kreg instructions say to do it the other way so you can rip the maximum 24". But I find it more awkward to use that way with a blade left saw since I'm right handed. So I set mine up this way for normal use and if I need to make a rip cut near the max width, I can swap it.
@@DoresoomReviews Okay, good! I never thought much about right or left saws buying this Kreg tool and watching your video so thanks for the explanation as to why you set it up that way. I do need to make max width cuts so it worked out.
When cut is made, must edge of board be 90 degrees to the other edge. I see how jig cuts a straight line, but if edge of board is not 90 degrees, the new cut will parallel the outside edge. Am i doing something wrong. Thx Bruce
Good idea!! can use some modifications the way it attach to the saw and 100% change of materials must be strong either aluminum. cast iron. still or titanium
Thanks! This was helpful. I watched it a number of times. I noticed that after I cut a test piece the saw had moved on the sled about 1/8" from the front position. So, I reseated it, re-did the cursor and still have a small gap. Did you have this too? Additionally, do you have the resync the cursor every time you install the sled? Thanks!
I haven't tried it myself with either. The instructions for the Accu-Cut say no. It's due to a regular circular saw not pivoting about where the blade meets the workpiece - the sacrificial strip would get cut in the wrong spot. Plus, I'm not sure if the base plate has clearance for a saw blade guard to bevel within it.
I had emailed Kreg to ask if compact saws can be used for the sleds and they told me it had to be a full size circular saw. I noticed you are using a compact saw. Did you make any special adjustments? Thx.
Had one of these, but wasnt a fan. Used it a few times on our projects sites, and it ended up at the back of a shelf on our trailer for a year or two. It finally rattled of one of the pieces and I just finally threw it away. Found that this was just more complicated and cumbersome than was necessary. Easier to use a simple fence guide....with one exception, if someone is cutting the same size rips over and over, then something like this might make sense
I gave most of my Ridgid tools to a friend a few years ago. I have mainly Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, Ryobi, EGO, and Bosch now. Ridgid's still a pretty good option, but they don't have as many niche tools as Ryobi and don't have much in the way of outdoor power equipment either.
@@DoresoomReviews I totally agree. Ridgid needs to step up their game a bit. Full disclosure....I’m a die hard Ridgid fan. I’m waiting on them to come out with an electric toothbrush!😆 The only place I’ve strayed away is with milwaukee. It started off with the M12 because Ridgids 12v platform is shameful. But then I ran into the “buy this m18 battery starter kit and get the free blower”. That sucker runs circles around my Ridgid blower. (The older model which is the bigger one.) so right now I’m 60/40 orange and red with Ridgid taking the lead. Thanks for responding and for the time you put into your great videos. Stay safe brother!
At about the 5:30 mark, you check for square, but there is no way to adjust squareness if it's off. The two plastic nubs on the blue plastic part prevent any movement of the aluminum bar. I actually ended up recreating the blue part on my 3D printer, without the registration 'nubs', and was able to square the tool. Out of the box, it was off by a full 1/8" across the two foot aluminum bar.
@@DoresoomReviews Ya, that was my first thought, but I wanted to keep the original piece intact. Worst part, I've embarrassingly been using the off-angle version of it for a couple of years, cussing and swearing my way through bad cut after bad cut, thinking it was my cheap-o Makita saw (that has hit the pavement more than a few times) causing the trouble. Turns out the saw has been fine all along...I only discovered the Kreg problem a few weeks ago.
I had trouble with bottom mount plastic bending away from saw bottom even with the wedge adapter pointing up so I put popsicle stick under the wedge now it sits nice and flat
This is so helpful. I watched this before I got the Rip-Cut. Then, when I got it, I started practicing on a rough 4x8 to see how things were. I noticed I was about 1/8" off and wondered the best way to fix that, so I watched your video again. The answer was right at 1:08 with the stop-block. That's the key. I had it set up on the wrong side for my Ryobi lefty. Duh. Gonna change the stop-block to the other side. I got the left-sided saw because that's what a right-handed person needs to be able to easily see the cutting line. It's not necessary with the Kreg, but for that sense of security, a pencil line is always good to let you know you're on the money.
So if the little red line on the front of the sled doesn't line perfectly up with your blade do you gave to measure with a tape and adjust it until its perfect? My saw is a lower end craftsman vorded saw and the plastic guard seems to be warped or something and it catcbes/rubs on the sled even though it seems to be centered...
The little red line is the cursor for the cut width that you use with the ruler on the aluminum rail - it's not necessarily a marker for where your blade is. So when you make your initial test cut, adjust the cursor to match the correct marking on the ruler corresponding to the width of that cutoff.
It actually works quite well. I'm a female, so I'm glad it's not heavier (plus it was only 40 bucks!); the saw is heavy enough itself for me. lol i used it today to skim the edges of some 2 x 4s to make a butcher block. Came out great!!
Agreed, I had one and it wasn't 90 degrees, it was a pain getting the perfect offset for the saw attachment so it would cut straight. If I left it alone the plastic would just keep pushing the saw and since 99% my cuts are over 2'.....I didn't like it, ended up selling it and buying one of those 48" straight edge with built in clamps so I can use it with jigsaws and routers to.
Great job with the explanation just purchased both accu cut and rip cut just like to know if my 60v flex volt 7 1/4 dewalt cordless worm drive will work with the plastic guide? its a left sided blade or do i have to purchase another circular saw
Left bladed saws will work, but it's still model dependent. I've been told that Skilsaw wormdrives don't fit, but I don't have a DeWalt wormdrive to check myself.
And obvious tip you can do rips greater than 2 feet. By first measuring anything over 2 foot marking it and ripping from the opposite side making your drop the rip. But great review I actually found my rip cut it was being thrown away because the sled broke. I contacted Craig and they sent me a slide for free great customer service. But because I pieced it together I needed information on proper set up so thank you!
Good eye! When I shot the action portion of the calibration steps, I used a 1" offset. However, I realized afterwards that if the test cut is under 1" wide, you'll need to use a separate tape measure or ruler to finish the calibration since the markings on the Rip Cut don't go below 1". That's why I used 1.5" when explaining it in the voice over.
I'd be hesitant to do so, at least with really narrow workpieces. You might end up with kickback if the cutoff rotates. Same principle as not using a crosscut sled and fence simultaneously on a table saw.
Great review. I have an older version of this with a shorter and narrower fence and no hand hold, no stop block or shoe insert. It also is not compatible with the Accu-Cut.
This is really helpful, thanks. Can you tell us what you would recommend to cut a much smaller width slither? I need to do a 4mm x 1 meter long cut on a vertical panel that cannot be removed and put on a bench. The other complicating factor is that it is not a 'through' cut, it is a 10mm notch that we need to widen on a 22mm MDF thick panel.Happy to do it by hand but I don't know what tool would do the trick.
If I use this to rip in half a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply, using it at 24”, for instance: Seems to me that distance between the rip guide and the saw would create and unstable jig. Have you tried using the tool at its full extension? Did you experience this?
I can see it's a handy tool, but how tough is it being made of plastic? With the weight of the skill saw mounted to the plastic base, will it take a few drops and not get broken?
I have one and the only problem I've had is the lock lever that locks the sled to the rail. It binds and won't lock down. I just a few days ago sprayed a little silicone on it it's a little better.
I bought one a couple of years ago. I agree with your suggestions. It takes quite a lot of faffing around to fix your saw to it and it’s often quicker just to use a straight edge and a couple of clamps which is what I do most of the time. My own view is that it’s pretty good but I’m not sure it’s worth the money.
Those are NOT just "potential" weak points... this thing is just too flimsy! Save your hard earned dollars, buy some aluminum plate and profiles, and make your own, much more strong and precise guide!
Yes for repeated width rip cuts it's faster than a track saw, since you don't have to reposition anything in between cutting. That's about the only situation I use mine for anymore.
Dear sir, ¿can one use this Kreg jig to rip [lengthwise] some 2x4's, removing ~1/2" from one side of said, please? Any/all comments welcomed. Thank you for making and posting this video.
Yes, it should work for that. I'd put the cut width at 3" and rip one side off. You may have to lay a second 2x4 down next to it to give you a stable cut surface.
Thanks for the review! If the lumber is not straight to begin with, how would I go about getting a straight edge with this tool then? I'm thinking to use this tool to rip cut several 2x4s from like a 2x10.
If you want a tool that will give you a perfectly straight edge, then you may want to look at Kreg's Accu-Cut or Accu-Cut XL instead: amzn.to/3faWgan Be careful about trying to rip 2x4 boards out of a 2x10 though, I've often found there's a lot of built-up internal stress in dimensional lumber which can lead to it warping severely if you cut down the center.
I have used mine for a couple of years but, IF Kreg would make this completely out of aluminum I would gladly pay the extra price for aluminum. The grey plastic latch/lever on mine broke the ears off from continual wear.
Good review. Thanks for posting. I used the Rip Cut to cut 5 inch wide plywood strips to use for making french cleats. The first few strips were fine but then succeeding ones developed a noticeable arc along the length (8 ft). Have you ever observed this? Any suggestions to eliminate? I started with a factory plywood edge.
I have a ryobi skil saw and there is one dimple hole that one swivel screw fits into but none on the other side. Will it be ok to just screw it to the top of the saw Bracket
I need to cut my plywood into 6” by 48” planks, if I understand correctly you are saying that I would not be able to cut the 48” using this but I could cut the 6” width all the way down and then cut that in half using a miter saw to get my 48” length
Doresoom Tool Reviews good to know, I’ve got 7 cuts per sheet of plywood and 97sheets to do. Just wish that making 8 planks 6”wide I wouldn’t have to waste the last plank due to blade thickness, any tips?
Great video & info, thanks! Just got home with my set, $49 at HD 5/5/23. Using it to custom rip my 6x6 oak fence posts for 1in thick oak horizontal slat fence with no ugly side, no stringers. 48 posts to go!
When starting the screws first turn it backwards until you feel or hear a click. This lines the threads of the screw and the base so you're not cutting new threads every time you reinstall the screws and saving the fragile plastic base.
I haven't finished watching this video yet, I paused it say this..this is how a referenced video should be like! Well done my friend!! You should be nominated for an Oscar! Thank you!
Thanks! Glad it's helpful.
Great video. Pro tip: everytime you need to re-thread a screw into plastic (especially thread cutters) back thread it until the screw drops into the threads. Then you can tighten without worrying about accidentally cutting new threads.
That's a great tip, thanks!
Great minds think alike...
I absolutely love my Kreg rip cut. Take the time to set it up and learn to use it and you will be amazed at the accuracy of the cuts you can make with this incredible tool ❤
Just bought one today. Had no clue until I saw your demo. Prime example of How to instruct/demo. Wish more RUclipsrs would Go into details like you have.
Glad I could help!
I picked up this at Lowes and didn't realise it had been opened. Not sure if unopened "boxes" are supposed to have instructions, but mine surely didn't and the Kreg RUclips channel certainly didn't help. You, my friend, gave such comprehensive instructions that I was able to set this thing up in minutes. I can't wait to do my first cut with it tomorrow (and thanks to your advice, I'll start by cutting a piece of scrap wood to ensure the tool is accurate. Thank you so much for this video!
I just mounted my Milwaukee M18 Fuel circulation. saw to the sled. I had to make a slight modification to my saw base because the R.H. hold down screw interfered with a rib on the top R.H. side of the saw base. I simply filed a 30 degree bevel on the rib until the hold down assembly swung freely. Without doing this the saw wouldn't sit flush against the slide base. Now it works perfectly. Excellent review and video.
Your review is very thorough, professional and trustworthy. Thank you
by far, dude has the best review, with sound advice, thats currently out there on this guide.
Used this Kreg jig a couple years ago to turn 10 sheets of 3/4" plywood into custom shelving for a 12' x 15' closet we built onto the back of a customers home. That alone made this jig worth every penny spent. I don't like using table saws, just not practical to haul around with you. With the Kreg Circular saw guide, you don't need one. Lets you rip virtually any size you want off of a 4' x 8' sheet of whatever material.
Another word it cheap plastic
Whatever happened to QUALITY?
But what about having a factory edge for it to work ? Dont you need a table saw for that
@@ticesine6589 the plywood he bought will have had a straight edge. It doesn't come crooked.
U need to see a track saw
@@randykerg9083 mine survived the moving truck from Texas to Florida and now it's thrown around in the back of the work van. Still works. I would usually agree with plastic being synonymous with cheap garbage but the Kreg stuff is pretty hefty.
Great review. Just picked one up at Goodwill today for $5. Can't wait to use it in my next project.
They should make a pro model, all aluminum with the improvements you mentioned.
I see a gen 2 coming with these suggestions
Pro? I think that should be standard
@Chop Wood kickstarter it
Still didn’t do it did they?
@@scrappy93 You nail it
You were born with natural teaching elements
Thank you!
When reinstalling course screws you should twist them backwards until you feel the screw lines back up with the threads. Use this in any plastic or wood screws you need to reinstall.
Nice review. I have had one for several years and, although I don't need it very often, it has provided excellent service each time I did use it.
thanks for the review. Good job. No wasted conversation or extraneous talking is good as well. I think you have a future as a reviewer. Get sponsors now.
Thanks!
I have to cut 1/2 inch off the wood, and I was nervous that I couldn't do it with the rip cut. Thank you for addressing this in your video. I will go practise now!
I really appreciate the thorough review! You showed everything I needed to know in such a short video.
Thanks, your video was super helpful in setting mine up. One correction is to hold the plastic guide using the provided cutout hole. The circular saw will derail at the end of the cut if you hold it by the aluminum as you suggested.
Dude had 2 opinions in the whole video and all of us hated them. Great video!!
If everyone hated this video, it wouldn't have 1M views. Thanks for leaving a comment though, it boosts interaction for the RUclips algorithm!
Great video... hope Kreg watched this and took a few notes on upgrading the product. Yours suggestions are spot on!
So helpful thank you. I bought this to cut plywood into shiplap but now my first job has to be trimming down a wood screen door so again thanks and wish me luck. 👍🏻
Thank you for the honest and objective review. My shop/garage it too small to break down a 4 x 8 sheet and I hate searching for someone at home depot or lowes who can do it for me. So at first glance I said to myself I want one. There are just too many compromises to an otherwise great tool. I'd gladly pay more for aluminum or steel version. Until Kreg comes up with one I'll just keep clamping my homemade straightedge to the full sheets in the driveway. On the bright side you just gained a new subscriber.
Excellent. Thank you. This was an excellent review and the setup. I just bought the Rip Cut and used this tutorial for the setup and everything worked out 100%. Great job, it was most helpful!
Can you set the saw to 45 degrees? Do not have a table saw and wanted to rip plywood strips to make cleats for a French Cleat system. Figures to make a 45 degree cut on the edge then move blade to 90 degrees to cut off the cleat then move back to 45 for the next cleat. figured the guide would make it straighter than a free hand cut. thanks for all your info.
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
This is an outstanding, and very thorough walk-through and review of the Krieg Rip Cut product. This helps me make an informed decision! Thank you so much for your hard work and diligence on this product!
Well spoken, informative and complete thoughts. Thank you for your help. 👍🤠
Finally someone with an honest review...I think the pocket hole jig and the RIP cut were pretty good ones even though some aspects of the jigs were not clearly thought out at all lol..buying an ACCU cut from them about ruined me of the brand entirely.
Great video
just bought one having problem with it I have a Dewalt DCS 391 saw and when I go tighten the screws the back end rises of the saw and it doesn't sit flat it says my saw is compatible
What can i do?
I've had the back end of the base plate droop away from the shoe a little on a few saw models I've used this with, but was still able to get good cut results with it. First check to make sure that gray insert in the front edge is flipped the right way if you have a sloped front shoe. Then back of a little bit on the set screw pressure and see if you can get it to still hold securely.
There’s no way to prevent it from leveraging the sled away from the saw base on my saw, regardless of which way you put the filler strip. As soon as the set screws even just contact the saw base, the sled immediately cants downward. I think you just have to accept that a bit of down pressure on the saw flattens the flimsy sled to the saw while you cut. I haven’t even tried mine yet and already I can see it’s poorly designed, even if it can make straight cuts.
hey man, great job on this review. pros / cons nad you're very clear in speaking and made this an easy choice for me beginning my DIY stuff. thanks so much.
In Oz I could have saved $35 buying a Chinese version. I bought the Kreg assuming the guide was made of an alloy mostly because it looked like it was, was not mentioned it was el cheapo plastic and also because here in the land of the rip off this item is AU$90. Kreg, this item is below your usual quality. Pleas get back on track.
Yikes, with the current exchange rate that's still double what the price is here in the US. I'd expect it to be all aluminum for that price too!
Love the pun! 😏
Great Review. Just bought this and came to this channel for directions on how to use it.
I already own this. I'd like to perhaps purchase the circular saw track as well. Does the sled that you attach the saw to the same as the one sold with the Kreg circular saw track product? And if you already customized your saw to the sled on this Rip Cut product, then will you have to readjust it to work with the Circular Saw Track, or will it be the same when going back and forth between the two Kreg tools?
The sled has been compatible with both the Rip Cut and the AccuCut since Kreg introduced the AccuCut mid 2017. If you bought your Rip Cut before then, I don't think it will be compatible, but the AccuCut comes with a sled that will be compatible with both anyway.
You'll need to set the sled up on the AccuCut first since it has the zero clearance strip that must be trimmed. The Rip Cut has an adjustable cursor, so you set that up second. Then you can use your saw mounted on the same base plate for both cut guides.
@@DoresoomReviews Ok, good to know. Thanks!
Very informative video. Great suggestions for a future models as well. I’m glad you added that you were able to get down to a quarter inch even though it’s not suggested.
If you use the video's recommended trick @6:36 to line the saw blade up against the blue guide rail and then set the cursor to match the guide rail exactly, it will not take into account the width of the blade kerf and thus always cut your measurement short by the width of your blade kerf. If your kerf is 1/8, then move the cursor 1/8 in, etc. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right, so please correct if I'm wrong. I would recommend placing the cursor on the inside of the kerf. Either way, the video offers a good suggestion about how to make sure everything is calibrated with the 1.5" cutoff trial.
No, my method accounts for blade kerf as long as you're ripping your "keep" piece off between the blade and the guide. If you cut with the keep piece on the other side, you'll have to constantly adjust the width setting to maintain consistent width pass after pass.
The only time you need to factor in blade kerf is when your keep piece is wider than 24". Then you do need to factor in kerf.
FANTASTIC review. Thorough, offers a great alternative to the instructions as far as set-up... and answers all the most predictable questions for unique situations (i.e. I specifically wanted to know if and how to safely make a sub-1 inch cut. Thanks so much.
Glad I could help!
There is no way for me to clamp my workpiece down without the clamps being in the way of the tools path. That alone renders this tool useless to me. What do I do now? I'm cutting 36inch long and 10 inch wide. 3/4 inch oak.
Double sided tape, low temp hot glue, or a router pad would all work.
Fabulous review. I’ve been looking at this rig and wondered how it would work. You explained things extremely well.
Glad I could help!
Excelente explicación, probó en alguna de 9-1/4? Saludos desde Uruguay 🇺🇾
I haven't tried it with a 9-1/4" blade saw, but I doubt it would fit. I think Kreg designed it for 7-1/4" max.
@@DoresoomReviews ok thank you very much!!
If the holes do get worn out in the plastic from being switched a trick I've learned is use a toothpick and some gel super glue and use the toothpick to smear the gel around the threads and it kinda fills em back in. Gives em a bit more life but the captive nut would have been 100% better.
I appreciate your straight-forward and to the point review. I hate having to go through a whole lot of nonsense like on so many others. I couldn't agree more with your comments on the rip-cut. Thanks for making this video! I'm going to check out your other reviews.
Glad I could help!
Agree… no stupid music.
I had one from Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) that is all aluminium and much easier to set up, but the rip fence is extremely small and only about 4 inches long. It does ok, but on wider cuts it's more prone to movement and because the fence is so short, it runs off the end of the board before the saw does, so the last 3 inches of your cut is free-handing.
I just bought this Kregg. The plastic seem flimsy and it's more awkward to set up. But once done, it makes very good cuts and the huge fence keeps saw stable and "under guide" right to the very end.
The long fence really does help a lot at the end of the cut.
with wider cuts you should really be using a strait edge clamped to the work surface.
I'd like to buy your old Mastercraft guide that I'll redesign with a longer fence.
Thank you! Used this to set up my Kreg Acu cut. Needed it to make accurate cuts in sheet goods. Between that product and a new Diablo blade, it works great. I was worried about trimming the 1/32nds part. I also have an older worm drive circular saw and attached fine
Found a saw it does not fit, 60v Dewalt worm drive. The blade guard hangs and pushes the sled off the shoe. Also the miter adjustment on the saw makes it next to impossible to tighten down the second screw. Was able to modify sled by cutting away some of the plastic by blade guard but the hold down is questionable.
Thanks for the info! I've heard a lot of worm drive style saws don't fit this base.
Make a grab handle that fits the rail at that location you suggested to grab the guide rail. A very good evaluation of this product. I bought the accu guide and now will get hold of the rip guide as well.
What is your KregTool 'Rip Cut' jig's model #?
I have a different model (perhaps an earlier version) that does not have three (3) features:
1. a hand slot on the straight-edge guide
2. capability to add a 'stop block'
3. no removable plate to accommodate the saw's base plate/shoe
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I was debating whether or not to buy one for some cabinets I’m planning to make and I don’t have room to purchase a table saw which I won’t use often. Clear explanations and great camera set up in the video. God bless you sir.
I have a bunch of Wainscot (5/16"x7"x34") to rip; do you think the Rip-Cut would be helpful or is it really meant for 4'x8' sheets? Though your video was very informative I wish it had addressed how to use the Rip-Cut with the wood clamped down (since the clamps get in the way of the ruler). Nice job!
Yeah, this would be great for that. When I cut something that's too light to rely on friction to hold it in place, I use hot glue, a router mat, or double sided tape to hold it in place. Depends what I'm cutting for which of those I use.
@@DoresoomReviews Carpet tape is great if the surface of the work won't be marred by pulling it loose.
Great Video. I found an older model without the stop and slot in the guide for the purpose of ripping one 20-foot deck board. I think this will be after than using a table saw.
Yes i think Kreg need to use the glass filed fibre in their stuff....kinda flimsy
My question is will it fit a Dewalt dcs571 saw which is a smaller 4 1/2 inch circular saw.
I am a new woodworker with a tiny shop, which item would you choose between the Rip-Cut or Accu-Cut? They seem to do a similar thing. I only cut plywood to make small shelves for french cleat storage, nothing fancy. Thanks ! And… good video btw!
If you're doing French cleats, you'll need to bevel. I know that can't be done with the Accu-Cut, since you'll run into the aluminum rail with the saw blade. You might be able to do it on the Rip-Cut, but will depend on if you saw has enough clearance for the blade guard. I always use my table saw for bevel cuts instead.
I bought this early last year and like it, but I do have some issues with it. 1 like you said seems cheap. 2 does flex some too. 3 not a good.cut at the very end, I draw a line at the end to continue.the cut to get a continuous straight line.
Hi. Just want to verify, the gap for the blade at the base is 1 and 1/8 inch wide? Thanks in advance. Nice review!
Yes, the gap is 1.125" on both sides.
Greetings from the UK. Thanks for a useful and interesting review. Agree about the material for the sled and it would be good if there was a handle (even if just a knob like on the front of a plane), that clipped onto the rail above the guide.
Great video, appreciate the detailed explanations and comments. One question, at around the 5:34 mark when you are connecting the rail to the edge guide, does your orientation for a left side (or right) agree with the instruction manual?
You can set it up on either side independent of your left/right saw blade configuration. You are correct, the Kreg instructions say to do it the other way so you can rip the maximum 24". But I find it more awkward to use that way with a blade left saw since I'm right handed. So I set mine up this way for normal use and if I need to make a rip cut near the max width, I can swap it.
@@DoresoomReviews Okay, good! I never thought much about right or left saws buying this Kreg tool and watching your video so thanks for the explanation as to why you set it up that way. I do need to make max width cuts so it worked out.
Great review, I just purchased one today at Home Depot for $37.00
When cut is made, must edge of board be 90 degrees to the other edge. I see how jig cuts a straight line, but if edge of board is not 90 degrees, the new cut will parallel the outside edge. Am i doing something wrong. Thx Bruce
A straight edge parallel to your desired cut line is the only requirement.
Thanks for the video. Five hundred percent better than the manufacturer’s manual.
Why does the lock not lock anymore after a few cuts? I keep snapping it off
This Kreg rip guide will fit to both left and right handed circular saw which is excellent. I'm left handed that's why.
So what if the board is not cut straight and you don't have a reference? Can you still use the edge of the board for straight cuts?
If the edge you're referencing off of isn't straight, then you'll get an equally crooked board of constant width when you use this guide.
Good idea!! can use some modifications the way it attach to the saw and 100% change of materials must be strong either aluminum. cast iron. still or titanium
Thanks! This was helpful. I watched it a number of times. I noticed that after I cut a test piece the saw had moved on the sled about 1/8" from the front position. So, I reseated it, re-did the cursor and still have a small gap. Did you have this too? Additionally, do you have the resync the cursor every time you install the sled? Thanks!
Can you make a bevel cut using the rip cut or accu- cut ?
I haven't tried it myself with either. The instructions for the Accu-Cut say no. It's due to a regular circular saw not pivoting about where the blade meets the workpiece - the sacrificial strip would get cut in the wrong spot. Plus, I'm not sure if the base plate has clearance for a saw blade guard to bevel within it.
I had emailed Kreg to ask if compact saws can be used for the sleds and they told me it had to be a full size circular saw. I noticed you are using a compact saw. Did you make any special adjustments? Thx.
No special adjustments at all. I'm using the Milwaukee M12 5-3/8" saw, but it may not be the same for all compact saws though.
Good instructional review good job on both the rip fence and also the accu cut, keep it up
Had one of these, but wasnt a fan. Used it a few times on our projects sites, and it ended up at the back of a shelf on our trailer for a year or two. It finally rattled of one of the pieces and I just finally threw it away. Found that this was just more complicated and cumbersome than was necessary. Easier to use a simple fence guide....with one exception, if someone is cutting the same size rips over and over, then something like this might make sense
Yeah, I usually only use mine for repeated width rips. That's where it really shines.
Question, a while back I saw you had a video with the ridgid 18v brushless. Have you switched to Milwaukee or do you still use ridgid?
I gave most of my Ridgid tools to a friend a few years ago. I have mainly Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita, Ryobi, EGO, and Bosch now. Ridgid's still a pretty good option, but they don't have as many niche tools as Ryobi and don't have much in the way of outdoor power equipment either.
@@DoresoomReviews I totally agree. Ridgid needs to step up their game a bit.
Full disclosure....I’m a die hard Ridgid fan. I’m waiting on them to come out with an electric toothbrush!😆
The only place I’ve strayed away is with milwaukee. It started off with the M12 because Ridgids 12v platform is shameful. But then I ran into the “buy this m18 battery starter kit and get the free blower”. That sucker runs circles around my Ridgid blower. (The older model which is the bigger one.) so right now I’m 60/40 orange and red with Ridgid taking the lead.
Thanks for responding and for the time you put into your great videos. Stay safe brother!
At about the 5:30 mark, you check for square, but there is no way to adjust squareness if it's off. The two plastic nubs on the blue plastic part prevent any movement of the aluminum bar.
I actually ended up recreating the blue part on my 3D printer, without the registration 'nubs', and was able to square the tool. Out of the box, it was off by a full 1/8" across the two foot aluminum bar.
You could shave down the "nubs" or drill them out and epoxy a pin back in place. That's pretty bad that yours was 1/8" off though!
@@DoresoomReviews Ya, that was my first thought, but I wanted to keep the original piece intact.
Worst part, I've embarrassingly been using the off-angle version of it for a couple of years, cussing and swearing my way through bad cut after bad cut, thinking it was my cheap-o Makita saw (that has hit the pavement more than a few times) causing the trouble. Turns out the saw has been fine all along...I only discovered the Kreg problem a few weeks ago.
I had trouble with bottom mount plastic bending away from saw bottom even with the wedge adapter pointing up so I put popsicle stick under the wedge now it sits nice and flat
This is so helpful. I watched this before I got the Rip-Cut. Then, when I got it, I started practicing on a rough 4x8 to see how things were. I noticed I was about 1/8" off and wondered the best way to fix that, so I watched your video again. The answer was right at 1:08 with the stop-block. That's the key. I had it set up on the wrong side for my Ryobi lefty. Duh. Gonna change the stop-block to the other side. I got the left-sided saw because that's what a right-handed person needs to be able to easily see the cutting line. It's not necessary with the Kreg, but for that sense of security, a pencil line is always good to let you know you're on the money.
So if the little red line on the front of the sled doesn't line perfectly up with your blade do you gave to measure with a tape and adjust it until its perfect?
My saw is a lower end craftsman vorded saw and the plastic guard seems to be warped or something and it catcbes/rubs on the sled even though it seems to be centered...
The little red line is the cursor for the cut width that you use with the ruler on the aluminum rail - it's not necessarily a marker for where your blade is. So when you make your initial test cut, adjust the cursor to match the correct marking on the ruler corresponding to the width of that cutoff.
Can you set the circular saw to 45 degree cuts tilting the blade? For 45 degree edges for making miter/bevel?
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
Excellent review mate, I like Kreg products but this one could be made from a heavier duty material, cheers from DownUnder
It actually works quite well. I'm a female, so I'm glad it's not heavier (plus it was only 40 bucks!); the saw is heavy enough itself for me. lol i used it today to skim the edges of some 2 x 4s to make a butcher block. Came out great!!
Agreed, I had one and it wasn't 90 degrees, it was a pain getting the perfect offset for the saw attachment so it would cut straight. If I left it alone the plastic would just keep pushing the saw and since 99% my cuts are over 2'.....I didn't like it, ended up selling it and buying one of those 48" straight edge with built in clamps so I can use it with jigsaws and routers to.
@@ericmann1781 You are right! I bought one and returned it. Just way too flimsy.
Great job with the explanation just purchased both accu cut and rip cut just like to know if my 60v flex volt 7 1/4 dewalt cordless worm drive will work with the plastic guide? its a left sided blade or do i have to purchase another circular saw
Left bladed saws will work, but it's still model dependent. I've been told that Skilsaw wormdrives don't fit, but I don't have a DeWalt wormdrive to check myself.
And obvious tip you can do rips greater than 2 feet. By first measuring anything over 2 foot marking it and ripping from the opposite side making your drop the rip. But great review I actually found my rip cut it was being thrown away because the sled broke. I contacted Craig and they sent me a slide for free great customer service. But because I pieced it together I needed information on proper set up so thank you!
Good point about ripping wider than 24" - just make sure you account for the blade kerf thickness!
@@DoresoomReviews Thank you and I always do. I actually assumed that’s why they made it 2’ to be portable and to accommodate 4 ‘x 8’ sheets.
Thanks! Wait though, you were going for a 1 1/2" test cut? I believe you showed a 1" cut.
Good eye! When I shot the action portion of the calibration steps, I used a 1" offset. However, I realized afterwards that if the test cut is under 1" wide, you'll need to use a separate tape measure or ruler to finish the calibration since the markings on the Rip Cut don't go below 1". That's why I used 1.5" when explaining it in the voice over.
I was looking for this comment... Glad I'm not the only one, thought I missed something
Can you use this for cross cutting? seems like I could clamp the rail down use it as a reference for repeated crosscuts?
I'd be hesitant to do so, at least with really narrow workpieces. You might end up with kickback if the cutoff rotates. Same principle as not using a crosscut sled and fence simultaneously on a table saw.
Great review. I have an older version of this with a shorter and narrower fence and no hand hold, no stop block or shoe insert. It also is not compatible with the Accu-Cut.
Interesting - I knew they upgraded the sled to be compatible with the Accu-Cut, but didn't know about the other changes.
@@DoresoomReviews
Pretty much looks like this
images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mzj0ZTg6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Can you bevel the cut 45 degrees if the saw is capable of that or is this guide only for straight 90 degree cuts?
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
What Miluakee model do you have? The edge of the base plate on mine seems too thick to fit under the clamp.
That's the M12 FUEL 5-3/8" saw in the video.
This is really helpful, thanks. Can you tell us what you would recommend to cut a much smaller width slither? I need to do a 4mm x 1 meter long cut on a vertical panel that cannot be removed and put on a bench. The other complicating factor is that it is not a 'through' cut, it is a 10mm notch that we need to widen on a 22mm MDF thick panel.Happy to do it by hand but I don't know what tool would do the trick.
If I'm envisioning it correctly, that sounds like a job for a router, not a saw.
@@DoresoomReviews I think you have understood perfectly. You also guess that it is not me doing the work but my handyman. Many thanks
If I use this to rip in half a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply, using it at 24”, for instance: Seems to me that distance between the rip guide and the saw would create and unstable jig. Have you tried using the tool at its full extension? Did you experience this?
I can see it's a handy tool, but how tough is it being made of plastic? With the weight of the skill saw mounted to the plastic base, will it take a few drops and not get broken?
I haven't dropped mine, but it survived being haphazardly packed in a box by movers and an interstate move all while attached to the saw.
I have one and the only problem I've had is the lock lever that locks the sled to the rail. It binds and won't lock down. I just a few days ago sprayed a little silicone on it it's a little better.
I bought one a couple of years ago. I agree with your suggestions. It takes quite a lot of faffing around to fix your saw to it and it’s often quicker just to use a straight edge and a couple of clamps which is what I do most of the time. My own view is that it’s pretty good but I’m not sure it’s worth the money.
I just said this! Lol
Well articulated review. Good highlighting of potential weak points. Thanks.
Those are NOT just "potential" weak points... this thing is just too flimsy!
Save your hard earned dollars, buy some aluminum plate and profiles, and make your own, much more strong and precise guide!
So…. If you have a tracksaw and rail, this still comes in handy?
Yes for repeated width rip cuts it's faster than a track saw, since you don't have to reposition anything in between cutting. That's about the only situation I use mine for anymore.
Thanks for the review. It looks convoluted but I’m guessing it’s only a one time set up for your saw.
Yes, once it's set up for your saw there's no more messing with it.
Dear sir, ¿can one use this Kreg jig to rip [lengthwise] some 2x4's, removing ~1/2" from one side of said, please? Any/all comments welcomed. Thank you for making and posting this video.
Yes, it should work for that. I'd put the cut width at 3" and rip one side off. You may have to lay a second 2x4 down next to it to give you a stable cut surface.
@@DoresoomReviews Thank you so much for the kindness of a reply. I'm glad it can work for said. God[Bible] Bless you much.
Thanks for the review! If the lumber is not straight to begin with, how would I go about getting a straight edge with this tool then? I'm thinking to use this tool to rip cut several 2x4s from like a 2x10.
If you want a tool that will give you a perfectly straight edge, then you may want to look at Kreg's Accu-Cut or Accu-Cut XL instead: amzn.to/3faWgan
Be careful about trying to rip 2x4 boards out of a 2x10 though, I've often found there's a lot of built-up internal stress in dimensional lumber which can lead to it warping severely if you cut down the center.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you. Sounds like I really need a table saw for this purpose - I want to rip the rounded corners off of 2x4s
I have used mine for a couple of years but, IF Kreg would make this completely out of aluminum I would gladly pay the extra price for aluminum. The grey plastic latch/lever on mine broke the ears off from continual wear.
Your saw makes way way more sense than mine. So much easier to see your cuts
If you covered this and I missed it I apologize! But what is the maximum cut width?
24"
I could not get it to fit properly on Skil Mag77. Would not clamp properly on the front shoe in any available position.
Good review. Thanks for posting. I used the Rip Cut to cut 5 inch wide plywood strips to use for making french cleats. The first few strips were fine but then succeeding ones developed a noticeable arc along the length (8 ft). Have you ever observed this? Any suggestions to eliminate? I started with a factory plywood edge.
Did you find an answer about the Kreg jig cut line deflecting over multiple cuts?
I have a ryobi skil saw and there is one dimple hole that one swivel screw fits into but none on the other side. Will it be ok to just screw it to the top of the saw Bracket
Yes, it's meant to just screw on top of the saw baseplate. None of my saws have a dimple.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you so much. I was confused about it 🤦🏻♀️
I need to cut my plywood into 6” by 48” planks, if I understand correctly you are saying that I would not be able to cut the 48” using this but I could cut the 6” width all the way down and then cut that in half using a miter saw to get my 48” length
Yep, that's how I'd do it. It's great for repeated width rip cuts.
Doresoom Tool Reviews good to know, I’ve got 7 cuts per sheet of plywood and 97sheets to do.
Just wish that making 8 planks 6”wide I wouldn’t have to waste the last plank due to blade thickness, any tips?
Great video & info, thanks! Just got home with my set, $49 at HD 5/5/23. Using it to custom rip my 6x6 oak fence posts for 1in thick oak horizontal slat fence with no ugly side, no stringers. 48 posts to go!
When starting the screws first turn it backwards until you feel or hear a click. This lines the threads of the screw and the base so you're not cutting new threads every time you reinstall the screws and saving the fragile plastic base.
Good advice.
I haven’t try that looks very good idea, but I hope Kreg makes it more HEAVYDUTY, in a future design, thanks for your video