Boat Trailer Bunks Built to Last
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Carpet used on bunks-
16oz Bass Boat Carpet-
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Boat Trailer Bunks Built to Last
In this video I will do a step by step tutorial/ installation of my diy waterproof boat trailer bunks. This boat trailer bunk replacement is super simple, easy, diy friendly, and cost effective.
In this video, I replacement the bunks on the trailer of a Lowe 170 aluminum boat (17ft) but this technique can be applied to a jon boat, bass boat, or any other boat trailer requiring bunks of the same style.
I'll show you everything from start to finish, step by step, on this boat trailer restoration project. I'll show you the tools and materials required to build your own waterproof boat trailer bunks that are built to last.
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Thanks for the detailed info as I am slowly (am 100% disable veteran with heart failure) replacing my Sun Tracker fishing barge pontoon trailer bunk boards! For some reason (maybe to save money) the trailer manufacture used pressure treated lumber on only two of the four 16 ft long bunks! Noticed when fungus began forming through bunk carpets! Replacing with pressure treated lumber that has two coats of wood sealant! Thanks again for the great video!
Thanks for the online Continuing Ed program! 😂 You guys have passed on a multitude of informative tips about my Jon Boat life!🤗🤙
Great tips and techniques, the one thing I would add is to predrill the locations for the fasteners of the bracket to the bunk wood, then countersink the top 1/4 inch and put galvanized carriage bolts in from the top before carpeting, fasten the pivot brackets to the carriage bolts with galvanized lock washers and nuts effectively through bolting the brackets, they will never pull out the way screws do after a few years
Thank you for the informative video. I rewired and modified my 16' X 50" aluminum river smallmouth bass boat last winter. Going to do the trailer this coming winter. I giving serious thought to purchasing the aluminum bunks manufactured by Ultimate Bunk. They're not cheap, but they are forever. I'm thinking that I'll use your method on the side bunks.
Thank you for sharing this information with me with me I redid mine 2 and a 1/2 years ago they are holding up pretty good but the next time I'm gonna use your method
An alternative to carpet, get a 4x4 pvc post sleeve. Rip it in half. Set a ripped “1/2” on top of 2x4 bunk board, attach with ss (or deck screws) screws along the sides.
100% separation of bunk and boat. The pvc doesn’t hold water, bunks dry extremely quick, thus, lasting much longer.
Or, go with Gatorback or caliber bunk wraps.
Caliber is ONLY for aluminum boats though.
On a previous aluminum boat, I used the pvc sleeve. Gatorbacks on a fiberglass boat.
Both worked great.
Thank you for your time.
That’s a great idea! I’m glad I saw this. Thanks for the video!
No problem thank you
Thanks for the resin idea!
A bigger boat, I can't wait!
Love the video man keep up the good work!!!
Thank you👊
Nice job!
What I've done in the past to combat the corrosion problem with the treated wood and aluminum boat is to get a 1 by 4 PVC trim board and mount that to the top of a treated 2x4 using counter sunk holes so the boat does not make contact with the fastener. Just one word of caution, doing it this way will make an extremely slick surface. You would not need carpet therefore the wood would last longer because it would not be holding moisture. As far as painting the treated wood, you could either paint your color of choice or leave as is.
great idea along with roll on truck bed sealer for the boards ..screw the pvc to the boards when wet with truck sealant
Yes, carpet should be a no-go these days. Mark is right, screw in on top of the wood boards a PVC trim board (cellular PVC), such as Veranda trim boards from Home Depot, and you might never have to change the bunks again.
seems like this method would not protect hull from scratches from sand or debris on pvc. carpet does allow some protection for hull
@@jackjensen7282 imo the pvc board will not trap sand and dirt near as much as carpet since there isn't anything for the debris to cling too. The board is slick where the carpet is textured allowing dirt and sand to be buried deep in it.
I never use stainless steel staples for attaching carpets to bunks. I always use Monel. Monel costs a little more but corrodes much less than 316 stainless.
Just looked up. Didn't even know that was a thing! thanks
Nice job sir
How many years would you expect to get out of these bunks launching once a week? I’m in the process of doing this bunk setup. Thanks.
I really like that seat up best because I hate whet the wood soaked up the water
Seen a couple vids now of your work and I am amazed at the craftsmanship and knowledge you have. I am starting my own rebuild after we found our floor to be rotting. I have heard some people talk about wet foam in a boat rebuild what’s the significance of this? Some said dead boat others say it can be fixed. What’s ur opinion?
@@lakeforest-nm8032 awesome thanks for the info. We were able to fry out the foam I just left the floor off for a couple weeks and the boat in direct sunlight tapped a hole down through in a couple spots just to be sure
I replaced the rotted, carpeted, factory installed bunks on both my boats with pressure treated wood, covered with Caliber Bunk Wrap and used stainless steel lag bolts, screws and Monel staples. I pre-drilled for the lag bolts and coated the bolts with a heavy coat of toilet ring wax before screwing them in. Both boats (pontoon and bass boat) are aluminum. The boats are much easier to launch and load and the bunks should last a lifetime. Boat carpet is pricey and would have to be replaced again in a few years due to wear.
Stated in the video. Don’t pressure treated lumber on aluminum boats. Chemical reaction.
If the pressure treated wood is covered with the caliber bunk wrap it should be ok shouldn’t it?
I redguard the boards. Carpet. And then where lag bolts penetrate wood i use 100% silicone
Nice, lasts forever!
The only problem with sealant is it also seals water in if and when water gets in. Good video though. I need to replace my bunks.
did you use mek hardner with resin ??
Did you used the hardener or no ? If so how much?
Why not use a vinyl or come of the composites, maybe the plastic bunk wraps? Around in NC they do not like using Carpet and many aluminum boat builders have recommendations against it. My guess it is easier on the paint.
How about plastic wood used for decking?
Just upgraded from a kayak to a Jon boat. Before I start my build, what’s the weight difference between wood and aluminum, and is the price. With your experience I figured you would know best before I get started. Thanks
Big misconception that aluminum is lighter. I framed my original boat out of 2x2 western red cedar. It's insanely light. Here's what people that talk smack on the internet don't consider. Many variables. What gauge aluminum are you framing in? If it's 1/16th, my 2x2 red cedar frame is roughly the same weight. If framing is 1/8th my 2x2 red cedar framing is significantly lighter. What gauge aluminum is your decking and lids? Most use .090 or maybe .080 , this will be slightly heavier than 1/2 inch plywood. What about lids? Are you running 1/8 extruded lid tracks and .090 lids with hat channel underneath for supports? These can be 12-20 pds depending on size, way heavier than a wooden one. If you try to get fancy and drop your sheeting down to .060 you can shed weight but the deck will flex, so you'll add more framing, adding more weight. From my experience I can say this....I personally can build a wooden framed and decked boat strategically to where it will weigh less than an aluminum build. I did it in my 14. The problem is skill set required to pull it off. Now if I told you a aluminum framed boat, with aluminum lids in tracks like I use, and .090 decking compared to a 2x2 pine framed and 1/2 inch exterior grade plywood decked boat were within 50 pounds of each other....the aluminum is 1,500 I materials and lasts forever, the wood is 250 in materials and can last a long time if done right and stored out of weather. The aluminum you will need proper tools for cutting and I'd suggest a power rivet gun (350$ for mine) , the wood a saw and drill. You have to answer the question yourself if the increased cost and needing a few more metal specific tools are worth your return on investment. Hope this helps.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats - thanks so much. I was hoping wood would be the answer but wasn’t sure. Looks like it time to get started, thanks again
Hi. Great video. Where did you purchase the bunk carpet or is there a specific type of carpet that is used for this purpose? Thanks
Carpet used on bunks-
16oz Bass Boat Carpet-
tbnation.net/products/6-x-20-boat-carpet-16-oz-cutpile-marine-grade-gun-metal-color?ref=builtforbattle
Or you could use bunk carpet or something similar. I feel the thicker the better and marine backing helps. Standard bunk carpet is usually thinner, i don't like it as much.
Great video! What about extruded 2x4? they have plastic base.
Lots of options, this video is just geared to a factory replacement with slight upgrading with resin. If i were going ham id us Gatorbak synthetic bunk covers
What did you do to seal the holes made by the lag bolts? Thats a place for water to penetrate when under water
Your right. I personally just put them in tight with an impact but if you'd prefer you can use a variety of sealants to backfill the hole with prior to setting screws. I've done it in the past.
Nice. Did everything correctly except for the Stainless staples. Hope you’re not planning on going in Saltwater. Stainless Will last for a period of time, but only Galvanized staples on a coastal trailer.
thanks for the feedback!
Great video
Also go dawgs
HBTFD
I'd use plastic composite lumber 2x4. Those will NEVER rot out.
Span any composite lumber the length of those bunks on just support brackets 8 ft apart, won't work. Composite lumber is made to go on decking joists 16 inch centers. Span it 8 ft guarantee it has a 1ft sag in the middle. Still has to be attached to something to keep it straight or it will flex a bunch.
1) is the glue necessary? 2) the fiberglass resin makes the wood bunk last forever, however won't the carpet still degrade and need replacement?
It will keep the carpet from wrinkling up over time and use. No it isn't necessary.
Things I’ve learned following this video for my trailer bunks:
You must use the resin hardener, not shown in the video.
The glue selected is important as oil based glues will damage the backing of many bunk carpets. My Attwood bunk carpet warns to only use a water based glue. The Weldwood contact cement is not water based so I have to return it.
The fiberglass resin will set up fast after adding the hardener so I recommend only mixing enough to do one board at a time, and for sure no more than two boards. The 14oz Bondo Fiberglass Resin is enough to cover four 8’ 2”x4”. I did not try any 2x6.
1) I state in the video i do not go into exact details on fiberglass resin because i have a whole 15 minute step by step video on that process on my channel. I believe the fiberglass resin video is even linked in the video. Also, the resins intructions are on the can and instruct to use hardener which is included.
2) I also state in video im using 20 oz bass boat carpet with marine backing. Hence the contact cement. I have nothing nice to say about bunk carpet and do not use it on any of my projects.
Sorry for any confusion.
You didn't show how you tuck in the ends of the bunks. There are several ways of doing it.
I was wondering how you did yours but you can't really see in your video.
what about using composite decking board that's made for outdoor weather?
It's made to mount to 16 inch centers on joists, without proper support it flexes way too much. It would still need to be mounted to something stiff. Ultimately there are better options, I just demonstrate how I do a simple "better" method with wood and carpet here.
The minute you started stapling you broke the resin seal with hundreds of holes. Will it still rot?
Collateral damage. No choice, Have to use them. 99.9999% of the resin is still there and because I use an air gun for staples, they are TIGHT. I'm not worried about water getting in and if it does it will be very minimal. And because they are stainless staples, they wont rust out and leave holes everywhere for water to get in, I feel that is key.
Everyone of these videos I watch the boards are with he 4" side up. Both my boats the 2" part is up. What is going on?
is that resin sprayable?
My trailer has more cross members than yours, probably about 2-3 feet in between, I was thinking of going with a couple pieces of trex decking. Any thoughts on this? I dont think it will sag due to cross members.
Check a spec sheet for installation of trex. Most composite decking allows for no more than 16” on center spacing.
It has no structural integrity.
I would advise against it.
If you want composite bunks, there are several manufacturers of such, specifically for boat bunks.
I did this same process (going to post a video) but did you not just paint the whole board black to save paint? Wouldn’t the whole thing being painted add an extra layer of protections?
Just painted it so it would look good on the bottom. Glue or contact cement sticks best to sanded resin over a freshly painted surface. The glue would probably break the paint down and turn into a mess or pull the paint off the resin.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats ahhh great point. Haven’t glued it yet but that makes sense.
Can you do a foam decking instead on the carpet?
Probably wouldn't hold up very well
Covering bunks with carpet is getting to be a thing of the past. Now it seems that PVC or nylon strips are the cats meow because of the wear and tear. They last forever and are slippery as snot on a door knob! I'm going to cover my skids with pieces of a cutting board (Nylon) 2 ft. strips should do the trick.
I will cover other options at some point. This video is for direct factory replacement as diy cheap option. Brand new trailers still coming with wood and carpet last i checked, even though i agree with you, manufacturers aren't necessarily jumping on that train yet.
What happen to your 1236 build? I was hoping you had updates as I’m trying to build one my self
I'm doing a 1232. I put it on hold considering I'm building boats full time now and am booked 9 months out. Not much time for personal projects. I do aim to wrap it up by spring 2022.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats that’s awesome can’t wait to see the outcome ! I’m a subscriber from Las Vegas NV keep up the great work cousin .
Thanks man, will do. Appreciate the support.
I brushed on the resin over 24 hours ago and it still feels wet. How long does it take to harden before I can sand it? I did not mix any of the hardener and just used resin. Please advise.
It will not harden without hardener mixed in to activate it. Resin does not dry like paint. Thats why they give you the hardener with it. When i do mine its ready to sand in 15 mins.
They actually have a better staple that's meant for marine use
I have to renew mu bunks.
How long are the bolts? Washer?
I have no idea, this is an older video and we reused what was already in the trailer.
I hate that I saw an Irving stamp on your wood. Irving is local to me and all we get is garbage because all of the good stuff gets exported.
Apart from that, nice video though.
I was thinking about roofing nails instead of staples
no
Why not just use composite?
Because its super floppy. You can't bolt a composite board 8ft with just two support brackets and expect it to stay straight. It will bow and flex. Also, theres a reason boat manufacturers use carpet on the bunks. I personally wouldn't want my freshly painted boat grinding across a composite board. I'm just showing in this video a way you can take the original bunk design, make it a lot better, last a lot longer, if you need to replace bunks, without changing the design or material. There's other options and materials I personally don't use.
How bout them DAWGS!!
HBTFD cuzzz
I would like to add… Use the hardner in the resin. I did not…
Only use treated lumber. for starters the yellow pine used in treated lumber will be better as a bunk than the spruce he used. next he sealed the board but eventually it will crack and start letting water in and have a very tough time letting it out; I'd bet sooner than later. The spruce will rot so much faster that you will be shocked as to how fast. the treated wood will be just fine as all carpeted bunks are made from treated wood. the carpet should make a good layer between the wood and the aluminum but if your really worried about then wrap the treated board in a waterproofing membrane before you carpet it. Personally I have been using galvanized roofing nails in a roofing nail gun for 33 years now and have never had any problems yet. I am in marine construction and have made hundreds of carpeted bunks since 1990 until the presence. I wouldn't listen to a weekend warrior on this matter. Do yourself the favor and don't either. If you want to spend a lot more money and make a bunk that will outlast you and the next few generations after you you can go with a rubber pad or a plastic pad of some sort over a metal bunk. There are many options out there but all at a much greater cost. Stick with simple treated and save your wallet and possible only ever change the bunk once or rarely twice in your entire life time.
Weekend warrior, eh? In all your years of experience, you must have missed the part where treated lumber is chemically processed to include copper sulfate, which is known to create corrosion and pitting to aluminum hulls when in contact. I wouldn't put treated lumber within 50 feet of an aluminum boat regardless of whether it was wrapped in carpet, rubber, etc. That carpet will soak up those chemicals when wet and your boat will set directly on it, eventually pitting the hull. In fact, new manufacturers don't even use treated wood anymore for this reason, and use regular pine wrapped in bunk carpet, which is why they rot out in a few years' time. They'd rather replace a bunk for you a few years later than a hull. This video is an easy solution for those "weekend warriors" who want a better factory replacement without spending a ton of money. If I wanted to demonstrate a bullet-proof bunk that cost 500$ and last forever, I'd do a video on GatorBak.
How are you going to say we shouldn’t listen to a “weekend warrior” but we are suppose to listen to you? An account with bad punctuation, no videos, and not even following or featuring pages that have anything remotely to do with any work.
Carpet and water . Ummmmm never .It's wrong. It's cheap. MOO .
Thanks Wayne
That’s not true any longer about the pressure treated chemicals being harmful to alum.