Great video. Thank you. I pretty much did this for my 14 ft. Starcraft back in 1980. I also made a non-skid walk way platform from 3/4" plywood installed on the trailer tongue about 12" wide and about 4Ft. long .Best idea I ever had!
One thought is after you secured the brackets to the trailer, take a hammer and knock the extra on the inside of the trailer frame straight down. That would lock it in place, and you might even put a bolt through the side of the frame right there to really secure the bracket. Nice DIY
Thankx for your time and information. To address some 'flack' from below...there are always MANY ways to do anything - limited only to our imagination. It is useful to share our thoughts as you have here B/C - even if your particular idea may not fit exactly - another person's needs, it fires the imagination and gives us all - a place to start our own attempts at a particular project such as yours. So---your information IS appreciated; great job. Also - your 'kindness' comes thru as well - always a blessing! Enjoy your now - easier loading and unloading at the dock!
Good job. One thing you could do to ensure the robustness of the set up is to either bolt a flat piece of stock into the inside corner of the trailer and then attach a nut to the protruding elbow piece that is currently sticking out. OR: take that sticky out piece and bend it down to meet up with the trailer frame. That would help lock in the guide post elbow and remove a potential safety issue of that piece sticking out. Top lights would also be nice for launching in the dark etc.
Finally got round to making and mounting these and now loading up the boat on ramps that are at 90 degrees on a river with some current is so much easier. One upgrade I made is that I mounted free running extra pipes with an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of the fixed pipe for even easier guidance.
I made some guides similar to what you did with flat stock steel, and they only lasted about a season. The vibration from the roads caused the bracket to break at the bend. Fortunately for me I had additional screws securing the pole to the trailer, because if it had broken while traveling down the highway without them it could’ve been really bad. In the end I ended up just buying the kit, and have been happy with it.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy yes I did bend it myself. Pre bent might be stronger, but I’d consider something other than just that one screw, you don’t want it going through someone’s windshield
I agree with adding more bolts to bolt the bracket to the frame. Another idea: Just last week I did pretty much exactly what you’ve done here, however I put a 1/4 inch bolt through the pipe and then used a wing nut to secure it to the bracket. I used two bolts on each pole, spaced about 6 inches apart (or whatever the spacing was in relation to the pre drilled holes on the bracket). This way I can bolt them on quickly using the wingnuts when I get to the boat ramp (while I’m loading the boat up with gear, putting drain plug in etc.) and take them off when I’m unloading the boat at the end of the day. The brackets stay on the trailer and the poles stow in the bed of the truck. This (should) eliminate issues with road vibrations, while proving all the functionality they are supposed to while at the ramp
Watched this video a few times. It 's good and I did just what you did. Wasn't happy with the slight back and forth of the guides on the brackets and didn't want to tighten the bolt too hard so here is how I fixed that. After bolting the PVC to the angle brackets, I took my heat gun to the end of the pvc at the bracket and once it became soft, I just clamped the end with two flat pieces of wood and squished it down flat to the bracket. No more wobble ! Thanks for the video.
Great video. I am doing the same for my grandsons 12’ boat. 1 mile from the launch Just want him to get nose of boat in back of trailer and be able to drive on or pull on. Basically creating a chute to drive into. I have 4 guides on my Jon boat. 2 @ rear 2 @ front of fender (so you don’t go off sideways at front of trailer. I agree on the expensive pre manufactured never fit to plan and always need re modification. Good job on your video
Very cool! I'm in saltwater though, so unfortunately I couldn't even think about using anything zinc coated. To kick it up a notch, you could move the trailer lights to the tops of the posts which would get them out of the water when launching, as well help with loading at night. But I'd guess you'd first need to check with your laws there for the trailer. Thank you for another great video!
I loved that. Congrats on that set up. I bet you could drive that boat right on too. I'm deciding between 2 trailers right now, one with guides and one without. Great video, easy to hit the subscribe button.
Awesome information and DIY Video. I would just suggest instead of the Zip Locks, use a “Screw and Lock Nut” to secure the PVC Pipes to the brackets. That’s how mine are secured on my Boat Trailer. Thanks for sharing and Happy Boating.
....Wayne....Wayne....Wayne.....boat guides for less than $25.....you have once again hit it out of the park....you are a boat guru extrodonaire.... thanks gonna go to my hardware store and put boat guides on my trailer.....
Very good video , I’ve been thinking how to make some guides for my boat trailer , this rig that you just did I’ll work just fine , a lot cheaper and practical ! Thanks mate 🤙
I’m thinking about doing something similar except I want to be able to pool my boat guides out to the side when I go toBack my boat in the water I’d rather Chevrolet van and I can’t see it my thinking is if I can pull those guides out I will know where I am enjoy you you’re a lot of fun and full information
Thanks for the inspiration. I was able to figure out how to repurpose some existing hardware and get guides in place for a budget. After reading the reviews of these pre-fabricated posts they did not seem to be worth the money being demanded.
Wayne, I realize I am a year late in offering some thoughts but here goes. If you had use the 1" pvc you could use a heat gun to warm up the end 18" of the pvc and press it oval so it would fit over the bracket. Advantage being 1" is less wind resistance and less force trying to turn the bracket. SECOND SUGGESTION would be to use to West System 5200 under the bracket to hold it to the trailer frame ( along with the bolt) and it should not try to turn once the 5200 cures. I enjoy your video, you do a great job of being casual and explaining things clearly.
Nice film Wayne......but I have to say the same as other people. I wouldn't use just one mounting point, it's gunna twist on you at some point and slack off. The ties are ok for plastic pipe but just increase the size of them to the max you can, you want Industrial size not diy shop. Those pipes aren't going to cause so much drag you need M10 bolts. I'd have a word with a local machine shop, it's only flat bar with a few holes drilled, pretty certain they could bend it to suit what you would need. I always say it.....I enjoy your films.
Thanks. You put this one up just in time 😂 I had everything ready to install a set… but I was going to use all PVC pipe. ( probably would have broke the first time I used it 🥴) I like the way you did it. So.. off to Home Depot I go 😂 thanks !
As others said, two bolts min per side is best, but if it works ok! Also, when you back in to retrieve, dunk bunks, then pull up so only about 1/3 to 1/2 is underwater. Pull boat on, and winch up right there, best approach.
Just went to local Lowes and got the same zing 10 inch brackets....a 10 foot 1.25 inch schedule 40 pipe...and a couple metal self tap screws......$49 after tax in northern Indiana
Yes - these have been flawless for me - but I have a 2 block ride to the boat ramp. If I was travelling down a highway, I would replace the zip ties with something more secure and regularly check or reinforce the main mounting points - locktite, locking nuts or a second nut and bolt.
I would carry the pipes in my vehicle and then simply slide the pipes over the brackets at the dock, back up and the remove the pipes after unloading the boat! Can’t lose one on the road if the zip tie breaks from all that bouncing as you drive if they are in your vehicle when not in use!
I have considered that, but also bending the metal weakens it. If I have a problem with it coming loose, I might connect the two brackets to each other for stability.
Wayne couldn't you've bent the L bracket under the trailer frame and drill completely though one side and into the rolled side to give it more stability ?
I probably could have - but I always worry about weakening the metal by bending it cold. It’s been working well as it is, but it certainly would be more solid if I didn’t just have one bolt.
I don't know Wayne, could you learn to use mirrors and not put your trailer so deep and use your winch? Costs less than $25. How well did the brackets with one screw in hold up over time? Did like the blues at end though
My little trailer is invisible in my mirrors unless turning pretty sharp and the brackets were still fine when I sold this boat and trailer 2 years later.
At 8:20 it should been slid back to the rear cross-member on the trailer.Then could have positioned it at any distance from the boat side and you could have used 2 bolts per which wouldn't allow it to slide at all. I bet you found those brackets probably weren't a good idea and they have eventually began to bend outwards (or possibly just broke off) from bouncing down the road numerous times and the weight and leverage of the PVC.The zip ties sure isn't a good idea,UV light will degrade them quick and they'll break, plus many brands of them are easily broke because they're inferior quality plastic. Proper stainless steel hardware,bolts,nuts,washers,etc. should be used,I'm cheap too but.....I'll splurge a lil They won't rust,if they're good quality...,and make disassembly if needed a lot easier. Only 91? haha I worked in MD for SMECO and PEPCO in the 1990's cutting trees for them.Been out there when the heat (feels like) factor was 126,all the while wearing saw chaps,hardhat,etc. and always cutting away what shade there was....
Actually for my purposes (I am REALLY close to my ramp) everything has held up just fine. If I was taking my trailer on the highway, I certainly would upgrade some of my materials - like you said.
Funny you should ask- today I found out that to drill out holes in my Yamaha F20 so I can mount it to the transom- 5/16" (or close enough to metric equivalent); the holes in the brackets- are also 5/16"; and finally, also today, I found out my deep cycle battery screw on terminals are 5/16" 18 thread. Been a 5/16" kind of day.
We can sure tell by the selection of hardware that you are running in fresh water. That stuff would not last a season down here on the Florida marine coast.
This has been on my list and your video is very helpful. Thanks for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect set up , thank you.
Great video. Thank you. I pretty much did this for my 14 ft. Starcraft back in 1980. I also made a non-skid walk way platform from 3/4" plywood installed on the trailer tongue about 12" wide and about 4Ft. long .Best idea I ever had!
One thought is after you secured the brackets to the trailer, take a hammer and knock the extra on the inside of the trailer frame straight down. That would lock it in place, and you might even put a bolt through the side of the frame right there to really secure the bracket. Nice DIY
That's a good idea!
Thankx for your time and information. To address some 'flack' from below...there are always MANY ways to do anything - limited only to our imagination. It is useful to share our thoughts as you have here B/C - even if your particular idea may not fit exactly - another person's needs, it fires the imagination and gives us all - a place to start our own attempts at a particular project such as yours. So---your information IS appreciated; great job. Also - your 'kindness' comes thru as well - always a blessing! Enjoy your now - easier loading and unloading at the dock!
Very nice, very easy, works well.
Your video was very useful I have a 14' Jon boat and I used the brackets and pvc pipe. Looks great going to test this weekend
Good job.
One thing you could do to ensure the robustness of the set up is to either bolt a flat piece of stock into the inside corner of the trailer and then attach a nut to the protruding elbow piece that is currently sticking out. OR: take that sticky out piece and bend it down to meet up with the trailer frame. That would help lock in the guide post elbow and remove a potential safety issue of that piece sticking out.
Top lights would also be nice for launching in the dark etc.
Nice ideas!
Finally got round to making and mounting these and now loading up the boat on ramps that are at 90 degrees on a river with some current is so much easier. One upgrade I made is that I mounted free running extra pipes with an inner diameter the same as the outer diameter of the fixed pipe for even easier guidance.
I made some guides similar to what you did with flat stock steel, and they only lasted about a season. The vibration from the roads caused the bracket to break at the bend. Fortunately for me I had additional screws securing the pole to the trailer, because if it had broken while traveling down the highway without them it could’ve been really bad. In the end I ended up just buying the kit, and have been happy with it.
Thank you! So did you bend it yourself? I think that by having pre-bent metal it might be stronger.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy yes I did bend it myself. Pre bent might be stronger, but I’d consider something other than just that one screw, you don’t want it going through someone’s windshield
I agree with adding more bolts to bolt the bracket to the frame. Another idea: Just last week I did pretty much exactly what you’ve done here, however I put a 1/4 inch bolt through the pipe and then used a wing nut to secure it to the bracket. I used two bolts on each pole, spaced about 6 inches apart (or whatever the spacing was in relation to the pre drilled holes on the bracket). This way I can bolt them on quickly using the wingnuts when I get to the boat ramp (while I’m loading the boat up with gear, putting drain plug in etc.) and take them off when I’m unloading the boat at the end of the day. The brackets stay on the trailer and the poles stow in the bed of the truck. This (should) eliminate issues with road vibrations, while proving all the functionality they are supposed to while at the ramp
So just to clarify…we put these nuts in the 3rd holes….got it!😅😏😜
Great video! Thanks for the fabulous diy idea!✊🏾
I am totally do this yo my job boat , and knowing every custom job my be a little different. Thanks Wayne for the great ideas...
Very welcome
Awesome job and to-the-point👍👍👍. I'm gonna use this method on my 15 fter!!! Thanks!!!!😁
Thanks for the video
Thanks Wayne. My next project.
Easy to follow video and well explained, nice job!
Thanks!!
very well done. Kudos !!!!
Very easy to install, effective and inexpensive too! My kind of project! Good job!
Great Wayne! I’m just like you and I want to do as much as I can myself. Both to learn and to save some money.
Thanks!
Great job just what i need for my sundofin 12 boat trailer
Your video was real helpful. I will be making a set for my little Jon boat trailer.
Glad it was helpful!
Watched this video a few times. It 's good and I did just what you did. Wasn't happy with the slight back and forth of the guides on the brackets and didn't want to tighten the bolt too hard so here is how I fixed that. After bolting the PVC to the angle brackets, I took my heat gun to the end of the pvc at the bracket and once it became soft, I just clamped the end with two flat pieces of wood and squished it down flat to the bracket. No more wobble ! Thanks for the video.
Nice tip!
Great video. I am doing the same for my grandsons 12’ boat. 1 mile from the launch Just want him to get nose of boat in back of trailer and be able to drive on or pull on. Basically creating a chute to drive into. I have 4 guides on my Jon boat. 2 @ rear 2 @ front of fender (so you don’t go off sideways at front of trailer. I agree on the expensive pre manufactured never fit to plan and always need re modification. Good job on your video
Great video love the guitar
Very cool! I'm in saltwater though, so unfortunately I couldn't even think about using anything zinc coated. To kick it up a notch, you could move the trailer lights to the tops of the posts which would get them out of the water when launching, as well help with loading at night. But I'd guess you'd first need to check with your laws there for the trailer. Thank you for another great video!
Raising the lights is a great idea! Thanks for watching!
PVC works
Simple, inexpensive and works. What more do you need,.
Thanks Wayne!
I loved that. Congrats on that set up. I bet you could drive that boat right on too.
I'm deciding between 2 trailers right now, one with guides and one without. Great video, easy to hit the subscribe button.
They have been quite handy!
Very well done. Nice video, I appreciate all of your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much!
Your videos are amazing thanks for all the hard work that goes into them
I appreciate that!
Awesome information and DIY Video. I would just suggest instead of the Zip Locks, use a “Screw and Lock Nut” to secure the PVC Pipes to the brackets. That’s how mine are secured on my Boat Trailer. Thanks for sharing and Happy Boating.
Thank you! That would keep them from flopping around a little - which mine do with a zip tie.
Hot damn that works slick, and for under $25.00. I'm definitely going to do this with my boat trailer. You are the man Wayne! Thanks! 👍😊🚤
....Wayne....Wayne....Wayne.....boat guides for less than $25.....you have once again hit it out of the park....you are a boat guru extrodonaire.... thanks gonna go to my hardware store and put boat guides on my trailer.....
Nice work, i have the same problem. i will do the same for my kayak.
Great, i was just going to buy a set of those. Im cheap too, thanx.
Very good video , I’ve been thinking how to make some guides for my boat trailer , this rig that you just did I’ll work just fine , a lot cheaper and practical ! Thanks mate 🤙
glad to hear!
I’m thinking about doing something similar except I want to be able to pool my boat guides out to the side when I go toBack my boat in the water I’d rather Chevrolet van and I can’t see it my thinking is if I can pull those guides out I will know where I am enjoy you you’re a lot of fun and full information
Thank you Wayne, Looks like I just found my next weekend project :). Have you done a video about how to launch and retrieve a boat by yourself?
I haven't yet because I'm still not very good at it! 🤣
thanks for the sharing sir.
My pleasure!
Thanks for the inspiration. I was able to figure out how to repurpose some existing hardware and get guides in place for a budget. After reading the reviews of these pre-fabricated posts they did not seem to be worth the money being demanded.
Wayne, I realize I am a year late in offering some thoughts but here goes. If you had use the 1" pvc you could use a heat gun to warm up the end 18" of the pvc and press it oval so it would fit over the bracket. Advantage being 1" is less wind resistance and less force trying to turn the bracket. SECOND SUGGESTION would be to use to West System 5200 under the bracket to hold it to the trailer frame ( along with the bolt) and it should not try to turn once the 5200 cures. I enjoy your video, you do a great job of being casual and explaining things clearly.
Those are some really good tips! Thanks for sharing!!
Nice film Wayne......but I have to say the same as other people. I wouldn't use just one mounting point, it's gunna twist on you at some point and slack off.
The ties are ok for plastic pipe but just increase the size of them to the max you can, you want Industrial size not diy shop. Those pipes aren't going to cause so much drag you need M10 bolts.
I'd have a word with a local machine shop, it's only flat bar with a few holes drilled, pretty certain they could bend it to suit what you would need.
I always say it.....I enjoy your films.
Thanks. You put this one up just in time 😂 I had everything ready to install a set… but I was going to use all PVC pipe. ( probably would have broke the first time I used it 🥴) I like the way you did it. So.. off to Home Depot I go 😂 thanks !
Awesome - thanks!
Wayne , I bought the parts and installed the guides. Works great.
Thanks for your advice 😂
Hey Wayne, how is your zip ties holding up on your guides, I want to make one similar to yours, great video ,thanks
They're working great. However my trailer doesn't spend much time in sunlight and I don't use it when it's below freezing outside!
As others said, two bolts min per side is best, but if it works ok! Also, when you back in to retrieve, dunk bunks, then pull up so only about 1/3 to 1/2 is underwater. Pull boat on, and winch up right there, best approach.
Just went to local Lowes and got the same zing 10 inch brackets....a 10 foot 1.25 inch schedule 40 pipe...and a couple metal self tap screws......$49 after tax in northern Indiana
Yikes - that video is almost 2 years old now. But prices have certainly gone up alot!
I can hear it rattling now! Lol Add 2 more zip ties....
Good instructional video and good concept for diy which I love. I'm curious about the durability over time. Do you have an update?
Yes - these have been flawless for me - but I have a 2 block ride to the boat ramp. If I was travelling down a highway, I would replace the zip ties with something more secure and regularly check or reinforce the main mounting points - locktite, locking nuts or a second nut and bolt.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Thank you for the update. Great job on the build.
I would carry the pipes in my vehicle and then simply slide the pipes over the brackets at the dock, back up and the remove the pipes after unloading the boat! Can’t lose one on the road if the zip tie breaks from all that bouncing as you drive if they are in your vehicle when not in use!
will those metal brackets bend if the boat hits them while trailering?
Mine haven’t bent, but it could happen.
It helps to ude a bow and a stern line , nudge the boat out sideways with your foot pull towards trailer.
You think folding the bracket over the trailer frame after bolting on would stop any twist ? Thanks for the clever idea fo sho 👍
I have considered that, but also bending the metal weakens it. If I have a problem with it coming loose, I might connect the two brackets to each other for stability.
Wayne couldn't you've bent the L bracket under the trailer frame and drill completely though one side and into the rolled side to give it more stability ?
I probably could have - but I always worry about weakening the metal by bending it cold. It’s been working well as it is, but it certainly would be more solid if I didn’t just have one bolt.
What about those two bolts on the top of each fender? Thinking this would have been a fine place to install the guides.
Good eye! I had considered that spot - I would only have to drill one hole because the 2 holes wern't the same spacing.
I was also going to recommend mounting the guide brackets to the top of the fenders. Thank-you for posting this.
I used to haul zinc ingots.
The more zinc in the galvanizing the more rust resistant it becomes.
I would take pure zinc any day.
good video, was really hoping it would let you just drive it up though.
I never am set up to drive on to my trailer because I'm usually by myself and my ramp is steep.
I don't know Wayne, could you learn to use mirrors and not put your trailer so deep and use your winch? Costs less than $25. How well did the brackets with one screw in hold up over time? Did like the blues at end though
My little trailer is invisible in my mirrors unless turning pretty sharp and the brackets were still fine when I sold this boat and trailer 2 years later.
The fact that you used 7/16 wrench to tighten that nut I’m guessing it’s a 1/4 in bolt. Correct me if I’m wrong
Ummm probably - sorry don't know for sure!
What is that little motor you have there?
That's a 2004 Mercury 2.5 hp two stroke
At 8:20 it should been slid back to the rear cross-member on the trailer.Then could have positioned it at any distance from the boat side and you could have used 2 bolts per which wouldn't allow it to slide at all.
I bet you found those brackets probably weren't a good idea and they have eventually began to bend outwards (or possibly just broke off) from bouncing down the road numerous times and the weight and leverage of the PVC.The zip ties sure isn't a good idea,UV light will degrade them quick and they'll break, plus many brands of them are easily broke because they're inferior quality plastic.
Proper stainless steel hardware,bolts,nuts,washers,etc. should be used,I'm cheap too but.....I'll splurge a lil
They won't rust,if they're good quality...,and make disassembly if needed a lot easier.
Only 91? haha
I worked in MD for SMECO and PEPCO in the 1990's cutting trees for them.Been out there when the heat (feels like) factor was 126,all the while wearing saw chaps,hardhat,etc. and always cutting away what shade there was....
Actually for my purposes (I am REALLY close to my ramp) everything has held up just fine. If I was taking my trailer on the highway, I certainly would upgrade some of my materials - like you said.
Go Cat Go!
If you take a hammer and bend the part that’s sticking under the boat it will help it stay in place even better.
Any idea how big the holes are in those things
Funny you should ask- today I found out that to drill out holes in my Yamaha F20 so I can mount it to the transom- 5/16" (or close enough to metric equivalent); the holes in the brackets- are also 5/16"; and finally, also today, I found out my deep cycle battery screw on terminals are 5/16" 18 thread. Been a 5/16" kind of day.
Its just look nice but when your boat jump in water by heavy air in few seconds those will be flat ! i have install much heavyer didnt work 1
These have held up well for my little and light 12 and 14 foot boats so far.
We can sure tell by the selection of hardware that you are running in fresh water. That stuff would not last a season down here on the Florida marine coast.
Make sure the widest part of the boat can fit between.
Yes - very important!
Bend the tabs to 90 degrees and it would hold better
Guilds be against widest part of boat so lines up with rollers not away from boat body
With a bigger boat that totally makes sense. For my little boat I can easily shift it around by hand so these work fine
If we use the Amazon links will you stop being cheap?
Some people need cheap solutions.
All you had to do is turn it and you could have covered the corner with two bolts.
I considered that, but would have to drill a hole in either the trailer or the bracket to make it work.
Wayne did you call your self a "Black Belt Karate Guy" after watching a couple self defense videos?
I've never said I am an expert, professional, or doing things the absolute best way.
Didn’t work did it. One bump and they turn and break your break lights off. Should have put on back rail and a 1/2” bolt in every hole
They've actually been working better than I expected. I thought they would have worked their way loose but they haven't
Don’t put your trailer so far under water. That’s part of your problem.
My boat ramp is very steep.
Your Trailer is too deep
My ramp is steep and I back in until the back of the boat floats.