Check for spark and compression. Bypass the VRO pump and run 50:1 gas mix in your tank. Don't forget to put ear muffs on motor so you don't ruin your impeller.
Appreciate that. In reality most people aren’t afraid to try, they just never want to show it on video. It’s sad so many people rather put people down then encourage. Most of the things I’ve learned have come from these comments!
Hey, I just decided to look at the entire series altogether because I liked your newer videos... Right now, I only have one comment and one comment alone; YIKES!!!!! spiral-shank nails are super rough to remove. They are harder to remove than screws in my opinion. I mean, screws can break relatively easily when you try to pry off plywood for example, but those spiral-shank nails... you'll need to pry and pry and pry and pry... My dad used to (when he was living) use these nails EVERYWHERE, and let me tell you, when he passed away, I had to demolish a bunch of his stuff in the garage to make it my own and at one point I had to use a gosh darn sledgehammer to try to pry off some plywood off of 2x4s because it was so hard to remove xD From what I understand, they make a huge friction fit because they force the material to conform to its shape, and that is why they are super hard to remove, because they are nail and they have a spiral..
That Johnson GT150 is a good motor. They are gas guzzlers but good motors. It sounds fine turning over. I would mix the tank oil @ 50:1 just in case the VRO is not working. They are blamed for many failures (although they are not as bad as thier rep). the boat will start and run even if the VRO is working (you will be dbl oiling basically) but that is fine the motor will just smoke like crazy. If you do a compression test the cylinders should be about 90psi. They are not high compression motors. Those carbs tend to gum up and need a clean/rebuild if they have sat with fuel in them that dried out. Just kinda picky carbs. Waiting eagerly for the next episode!
YOU HAVE A RED FUSE PORT ATTCHED TO YOUR STARTER SILINOID CHECK THAT FUSE ITS A 32V FUSE CHANGE IT ITS ONLY ABOUT A HALF OF A INCH LONG YOU CAN BUY IT AT AUTO ZONE OR OREILLYS
Dude you dedication, attitude and attention to detail is admirbable bro. I am definitely taking notes and learning in the event I ever need to do repairs on my own rig
Buy u a cheap voltage meter/tester it will save u alot of time . Engine sounds like it's gonna run . I just finished my 84 champion with 200 mercury it sat for 7 years it my first bass boat and me and my boys love it
Just a reminder, there is a Bass Cat Forum on-line that Bass Cat owners can share and ask questions on restoration jobs that they have done too. Just another resource. I also wonder if Bass Cat still sells guages new to fit the old ones you have, if you wanted too.
Man, I felt like screaming because I knew exactly what happened to that motor. Same exact thing happened to my Johnson 110, lost all power to the engine and trim… turns out it was that fuse which took me forever to find! So, what happened was either A.) Somewhere along the engine harness, there was a short… causing that fuse, which is the main power to everything in said harness, to blow. B.) The first attempt to wire up the ignition was wrong, causing it to short. Either way, it’s a great move to rewire that boat because it seemed like a mess! It improves reliability and gives you a chance to make it your own! Really enjoying this series, and you are doing a great job! Keep it up!
Comfortable black rubber mat laid in and cut right will look really professional on the flooring! Great job so far! I wonder if you can get a wiring schematic from Bass Cat on that year model, and service manual. Motor sounds fine!
Great videos I’m a big motor head and I would suggest replacing the impeller in the lower unit as preventative maintenance. They need a new impeller every 2 years roughly anyway and it’s just a good thing to do. Another thing I would recommend doing is a fuel pump rebuild because they last about 10 years on average. Finally run the motor on tw3 two stroke very little smoke and better for the engine as well. Oh and don’t forget to change the lower unit oil too. Love your vids. I give you a lot of credit for saving this boat. Best of luck! (Also if you have trouble starting it quick start will be you friend.)
lol at the sound of the wet sock hitting the floor. We all know it from some "stunning" maneuver we have made in our lives. Love the series! I worked in a boat shop rigging boats for a few years. The wiring is a joke. Cobbled together mess that never gets re-engineered, they just add wires as they add stuff to the boat. Very little separation of systems and hard to diagnose.
like most have already said--do a compression check, hook up muffs with water running before running or you WILL be removing the lower unit to replace the pump, running dry will burn it in about 15 seconds. buy the manual for the motor and read the sections on ignition. looks like a fun project.
Preferably a tub, but earmuffs at least, before you crank it much more-yes you can burn impellers with cranking an outboard just a few seconds at a time. Mix 50/50 gear oil, autotrans fluid, mist into plug holes before you crank it more, check spark, compression, disable auto oilier, preferably forever, and mix 50 to 1 from a jug to outboard. Enjoy the re-wire. Friend got a different console for his 24' Oceanaire, new electronics, and the wiring is going to take us days.
Bypassing the vro pump (I have experience with this) is nessecary. Unless you can find a replacement/conversion kit for the vro. Only problem with mixing gas/oil is that it will be rich when idling. It is meant to run 100:1 when idling and 50:1 when running. It also makes for being "cold natured" during the colder months and can be frustrating. But at least you won't blow the motor. The vro pump was the weak link for these motors. Good luck and keep up the great content!
Would also recommend servicing the lower unit. Pressure test to see if there any bad gaskets. If all goes well water pump and gear lube. When draining gear lube make sure there is no water in it.
Like a bunch of people said cap of the vro and mix 50 to 1 gas mix using johnson evinrude 2 stroke oil u can get it at walmart cheapest and easiest way vro parts are expensive I just got a 200hpGT running and have never messed with this stuff before either so it ain't hard got this.
I’m glad you found that fuse on the port side, I watched the rest of the video to make sure you did as that same fuse caused me hours of pain once as well. Also, your call on the VRO, but the stigma from those came from the original VRO pumps, which were utter garbage. You have VRO2 which solved pretty much all of the problems, so it is far more reliable and has alarms if oil isn’t flowing. I had this exact same project with my ‘91 Stratos 201 Pro, a lot of headaches, but super rewarding on the other side. Good job!
Definitely bypass the vro as everyone has said, I had a GT and it was a sick engine. Loved gas. Definitely get everything lubed up before you start it if you can. (Just find a video on what to do when starting and engine that's been sitting) Good job and good luck!
Don’t trust a plastic oil pump to mix your fuel to gas ratio. Mix correct oil/gas. Get you mixing cup. Don’t believe extra oil won’t hurt the engine, has to work harder with the extra oil
This is the first of your videos I’ve seen but good job so far with the boat. Not sure how long it was sitting or what you’ve done to the engine outside of what is in this video but if it sat for awhile I would rebuild the carb. It’s not that difficult and could save grief later on. Impeller would be be a good idea also. Sounds like you have it hooked up right and the starter and silinoid work. Looking forward to your progress.
Looks good so far check all fuses on motor, sucks you had to pull it all apart but make sure to drain the fuel out of those carbs there should be a Philips tip on the bottom of the bowl on the carbs run external tank first than try internal also when you are starting the motor like you are MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE POWER!! That goes to the ignition everyone makes fun of 12v but man if you grab that ignition wrong you won’t be able to let it go🤣 good luck!
Just quick with gell coat you need to seal it for it to cure or it will stay tacky and eat through sandpaper and dirt will stick to it super easy. You get flowcoat witch is just gekl coat with wak this is the right thing just give it a light sand if you want to put something over and your good
So in the future you can test the engine by hooking up jumper cables to the hot on the starter and then the other to the engine block. or wrap a rope around the fly wheel and pull it like a pull start (also a good trick to know incase youre out on the water and your starting battery dies) its also good to remove the spark plugs and spray some oil like wd40 in there to help it out because its been sitting so long but its good to see your motor isnt seized up. next step is to check compression, do a full service, then hook up the gas and get it running, wouldnt want to get it running and end up damaging it in another way. excellent work
also assume it was last run on ethanol fuel and the carbs would need to be cleaned. not harm in trying to run it first but just be prepared to clean it and get a rebuild kit. floats could be bad and the gaskets and definitely all bad
Galvanised nails lol. Bypass the vro and premix 50:1 Look to see if there is a normal non vro fuel pump aswell for the motor. And use champion plugs aswell. They work better than ngk I found in old evinrude and Johnson's.
Pull all the plugs, insert the compression tester, crank it over 5 x’s, record the reading, move onto the next cylinder. So long as the numbers are within 20% of each other your good with compression. Remember engines need spark bang and blow to run
@@TightlineTV here's a trick.... Do the compression test as it sits. If you happen to get a reading that is low, try squirting an ounce or two of motor oil in the bad cylinder and if it comes up, you've got some ring problems. It'll at least give you a ballpark idea of the health of the rings and valves until you can get it started. You are 100% correct that a warmed up engine will yield more accurate readings, especially for an engine that hasn't run in quite a while. Good luck with the project, it's great watching.
You had me yelling at the screen for most of this video telling you to look at the fuse on the port side. I have had a few people call me with that same no start condition just to find that fuse was bad. I highly recommend investing in a SELOC manual for that motor it has all the info you would ever need for that motor.
Gonna be really nice when your done. There are a lot of dealers selling used out boards that been refurbished some what. Or even rebuilt. That boat would be sweat with a more modern engine.
Good progress! next on the list would be to check for compression and spark on all cyl and replace impeller. I work on OMC engines alot and they are beasts but are known to have alot of problems. Let me know if you have any questions id be happy to help.
hey brother don't forget to squirt you some oil in the cylinders take out your plugs and squirt small in the cylinders spin it over make sure they're good lubricated and then go ahead and fire it up you're doing an excellent job I love your boat brother you doing a dog going good job have a very blessed day and be safe I want to see it run check your compression on it also later on
White rhino liner would be cheaper than Seadek but probably not as cool LOL sounds like the motor wants to fire. If it has spark and compression make sure you change the impeller and the lower end oil before you run her. I had a 96 Basscat Sabre. Loved that boat. Good luck!
change lower unit oil. would be good to bypass the vro like others had said an mix oil in your fuel tank but not killer. no ethanol aloud in this motor!!!!! change water pump or pull of lower unit before starting. As long as it has sat that water pump needs to be replaced anyways if it fails odds are nothing will happen but i have seen them shove pieces of water pump rubber in passages (not fun to fix). if you are going to run with out engine muffs only do so for small periods of time and without the lower unit attached so you don't burn out water pump. go ahead and replace the plugs they are like 2.50 a piece just get the regular plugs nothing fancy needed. wouldn't be a bad idea to put some oil in those cylinders and crank over with plugs out to get everything lubricated in there but not necessary. from there its all about fuel air and spark. carbs probably need to be rebuilt. kits can be found online reasonably. Make sure you are getting spark(lots of videos on this. final thing if you want to check engine health you can rent a compresion tester from oreileys or auto zone and make sure all cylinders are making pressure within 10% of each other(the way there program works you basically pay for there loaner tool and the refund full amount when returned) so long as your compression is good everything else is worth fixing if it is not good you need to move on with a different motor. before putting money into it. sorry this isn't in the best order (i recomend starting with compression test, then waterpump/lower unit oil, then plugs then carbs)but should get you there. enjoy watching your resurrections of this keep up the good work.
Awesome series so far, getting far for sure. Also noticed that the barn that the boat was in was from another YT personality. Was shocked when I saw it
I’m sure you’ve got this covered but go ahead and buy the rebuild kits for the carbs and new fuel lines. A new thermostat too possibly a water propeller if needed after the initial start up. New spark plugs. Should be set to at least know this thing will run for you!
That 20 Amp fuse is common to fail. When it happens your trim won't work & your motor won't start. If you don't feel like doing a complete re wire call basscat they should be able to get you a new harness for the dash.
We have a boat that has that motor and when we first went out in it it did not run, sat at the ramp for 30 minutes with a sputtering motor and a pissed off crowd. Ill give you some tips about those motors. They don't like cold. You got to throw a ton of gas at em to start. don't leave em sitting without running, otherwise the carbs will clog up a bit. we use non ethanol fuel and that really helps. they are very hard to start (cold after sitting) , but once you get them going they start turn key. ours typically takes 2-3 turns of a key cold to run. Use choke before and during starting, continue to use choke as engine starts for 10 seconds. If you can, idle up the throttle a bit in neutral to assist with starting. maybe replace fuel lines, the inside deteriorates over time. its been a pretty reliable motor for us. we just do maintence such as impeller, spark plugs, lower gear fluid, yk. they are great motors. they scream and haul ass on the lake. oh, and hook it up to water while starting. we disconnected our VRO pump which mixes the oil and gas. we just mixed our gas as putting into the tank as the VRO pumps are known to fail and the engine go kaboom. by the way, your starter sounded a little slow but maybe its just me. I agree, check compression. may be a little lower than you think but thats how they were made. check spark too. hope you have fun.
I had a mid 80s bass cat someone gave me, trailer, boat, and mercury motor. I stripped it all down and wanted to separate the hull and rebuild the stringers and the whole boat but it was a big deal and kind of before youtube got real big and we bought a new house and my wife said that aint coming with us so I hauled it to the dump and paid to get rid of it. It was a 15 foot boat which is too small for my liking anyway.
To avoid wood splitting, all you have to do is drill a pilot hole. Makes a much tighter hold than a nail too. Your pilot hole must be drilled according to the size of the screw.
Stuff up the entire boat. Get white gel coat with UV inhibitor, and hardner and white baby play sand. Get a 5 gallon bucket and do the entire boat it will look like new. Don't buy Total boat go ask a boat supply were the fiberglass supply house is
Pull the plugs out, squirt some gas down the cylinders and see if it fires up. Should only run for a few seconds. Won't hurt it. Then move on to putting a barrel of water under it and a fuel tank with new fuel lines. Baby steps.
I got a procraft , I’m doing everything your doing. I got it to start and ran great after doing the service now it won’t start. I ready to set it on fire.
Scope those cylinders and compression test ASAP to look for scoring, burning, scarring etc. Just pull the plugs and look. If it is scored no amount of work will restore the engine short of machining cylinders or powerhead replacement……
Dude your about to have a boat that motor needs a couple kicks and about 3 cans of break cleaner and your fishing but definitely don’t run that motor dry hook up a hose good luck god bless bro
Lmao bro just keep it close to the bank don’t venture out or she’s gonna be a jon boat real quick lol but she’s got heart stuff was built better in those days might sound like a 67 Chevy smoking like hell but she’ll move lol
Go get you some better garage lights. Lowes or Home Depot sells some really good LED lights that are three or four panel. Trust me you won’t regret it.
It's not a matter of a nail vs screw.. it's a matter of the fact you MUST use stainless on a boat. Otherwise those nails/screws will rust out, very fast..
Check for spark and compression. Bypass the VRO pump and run 50:1 gas mix in your tank. Don't forget to put ear muffs on motor so you don't ruin your impeller.
+1 This is what i came here to say.
I was going to say this too
garden hose for the engine too
Absolutely love the fact you’re not afraid to try and are open to help, a lot of ppl wouldn’t be like that.
Appreciate that. In reality most people aren’t afraid to try, they just never want to show it on video. It’s sad so many people rather put people down then encourage. Most of the things I’ve learned have come from these comments!
RussellEauers
RussellEauers
Loving the series can’t wait to see it hit the water
Hey, I just decided to look at the entire series altogether because I liked your newer videos...
Right now, I only have one comment and one comment alone; YIKES!!!!! spiral-shank nails are super rough to remove. They are harder to remove than screws in my opinion. I mean, screws can break relatively easily when you try to pry off plywood for example, but those spiral-shank nails... you'll need to pry and pry and pry and pry... My dad used to (when he was living) use these nails EVERYWHERE, and let me tell you, when he passed away, I had to demolish a bunch of his stuff in the garage to make it my own and at one point I had to use a gosh darn sledgehammer to try to pry off some plywood off of 2x4s because it was so hard to remove xD From what I understand, they make a huge friction fit because they force the material to conform to its shape, and that is why they are super hard to remove, because they are nail and they have a spiral..
That Johnson GT150 is a good motor. They are gas guzzlers but good motors.
It sounds fine turning over. I would mix the tank oil @ 50:1 just in case the VRO is not working. They are blamed for many failures (although they are not as bad as thier rep). the boat will start and run even if the VRO is working (you will be dbl oiling basically) but that is fine the motor will just smoke like crazy.
If you do a compression test the cylinders should be about 90psi. They are not high compression motors.
Those carbs tend to gum up and need a clean/rebuild if they have sat with fuel in them that dried out. Just kinda picky carbs.
Waiting eagerly for the next episode!
YOU HAVE A RED FUSE PORT ATTCHED TO YOUR STARTER SILINOID CHECK THAT FUSE ITS A 32V FUSE CHANGE IT ITS ONLY ABOUT A HALF OF A INCH LONG YOU CAN BUY IT AT AUTO ZONE OR OREILLYS
Dude you dedication, attitude and attention to detail is admirbable bro. I am definitely taking notes and learning in the event I ever need to do repairs on my own rig
Thanks!
Now that's some fun!! In the rewiring process definitely junk the old fuse box and go new. Can't wait to smell the 2 stroke smoke the morning.
Buy u a cheap voltage meter/tester it will save u alot of time . Engine sounds like it's gonna run . I just finished my 84 champion with 200 mercury it sat for 7 years it my first bass boat and me and my boys love it
Loving the series
This vid was the best so far! Watching the whole series!
Just a reminder, there is a Bass Cat Forum on-line that Bass Cat owners can share and ask questions on restoration jobs that they have done too. Just another resource. I also wonder if Bass Cat still sells guages new to fit the old ones you have, if you wanted too.
Awesome series man! I’m doing the same with some wires on my 1994 Javelin!
Man, I felt like screaming because I knew exactly what happened to that motor. Same exact thing happened to my Johnson 110, lost all power to the engine and trim… turns out it was that fuse which took me forever to find!
So, what happened was either
A.) Somewhere along the engine harness, there was a short… causing that fuse, which is the main power to everything in said harness, to blow.
B.) The first attempt to wire up the ignition was wrong, causing it to short.
Either way, it’s a great move to rewire that boat because it seemed like a mess! It improves reliability and gives you a chance to make it your own!
Really enjoying this series, and you are doing a great job! Keep it up!
Comfortable black rubber mat laid in and cut right will look really professional on the flooring! Great job so far! I wonder if you can get a wiring schematic from Bass Cat on that year model, and service manual. Motor sounds fine!
Great videos I’m a big motor head and I would suggest replacing the impeller in the lower unit as preventative maintenance. They need a new impeller every 2 years roughly anyway and it’s just a good thing to do. Another thing I would recommend doing is a fuel pump rebuild because they last about 10 years on average. Finally run the motor on tw3 two stroke very little smoke and better for the engine as well. Oh and don’t forget to change the lower unit oil too. Love your vids. I give you a lot of credit for saving this boat. Best of luck! (Also if you have trouble starting it quick start will be you friend.)
Appreciate it!
lol at the sound of the wet sock hitting the floor. We all know it from some "stunning" maneuver we have made in our lives.
Love the series! I worked in a boat shop rigging boats for a few years. The wiring is a joke. Cobbled together mess that never gets re-engineered, they just add wires as they add stuff to the boat. Very little separation of systems and hard to diagnose.
like most have already said--do a compression check, hook up muffs with water running before running or you WILL be removing the lower unit to replace the pump, running dry will burn it in about 15 seconds. buy the manual for the motor and read the sections on ignition. looks like a fun project.
Preferably a tub, but earmuffs at least, before you crank it much more-yes you can burn impellers with cranking an outboard just a few seconds at a time.
Mix 50/50 gear oil, autotrans fluid, mist into plug holes before you crank it more, check spark, compression, disable auto oilier, preferably forever, and mix 50 to 1 from a jug to outboard.
Enjoy the re-wire. Friend got a different console for his 24' Oceanaire, new electronics, and the wiring is going to take us days.
Bypassing the vro pump (I have experience with this) is nessecary. Unless you can find a replacement/conversion kit for the vro. Only problem with mixing gas/oil is that it will be rich when idling. It is meant to run 100:1 when idling and 50:1 when running. It also makes for being "cold natured" during the colder months and can be frustrating. But at least you won't blow the motor. The vro pump was the weak link for these motors. Good luck and keep up the great content!
Flair showed your boat in his new truck video...are you going to be working with him?
I’m helping him with some projects so who knows will see 🤷🏻♂️
@@TightlineTV That would be awesome. Hope you kill it on those projects. Keep it up on those boat videos!
Would also recommend servicing the lower unit. Pressure test to see if there any bad gaskets. If all goes well water pump and gear lube. When draining gear lube make sure there is no water in it.
Like a bunch of people said cap of the vro and mix 50 to 1 gas mix using johnson evinrude 2 stroke oil u can get it at walmart cheapest and easiest way vro parts are expensive I just got a 200hpGT running and have never messed with this stuff before either so it ain't hard got this.
Sounds like the usual OMC sound when cranking. Make sure you have spark on all cylinders, and do a carb clean/ rebuild if necessary.
You literally predrill your screw holes and they won't split. Really cool watching you at the start of your boat building RUclips journey.
I’m glad you found that fuse on the port side, I watched the rest of the video to make sure you did as that same fuse caused me hours of pain once as well. Also, your call on the VRO, but the stigma from those came from the original VRO pumps, which were utter garbage. You have VRO2 which solved pretty much all of the problems, so it is far more reliable and has alarms if oil isn’t flowing. I had this exact same project with my ‘91 Stratos 201 Pro, a lot of headaches, but super rewarding on the other side. Good job!
Thankyou!
Definitely bypass the vro as everyone has said, I had a GT and it was a sick engine. Loved gas. Definitely get everything lubed up before you start it if you can. (Just find a video on what to do when starting and engine that's been sitting) Good job and good luck!
Don’t trust a plastic oil pump to mix your fuel to gas ratio. Mix correct oil/gas. Get you mixing cup. Don’t believe extra oil won’t hurt the engine, has to work harder with the extra oil
This is the first of your videos I’ve seen but good job so far with the boat. Not sure how long it was sitting or what you’ve done to the engine outside of what is in this video but if it sat for awhile I would rebuild the carb. It’s not that difficult and could save grief later on. Impeller would be be a good idea also. Sounds like you have it hooked up right and the starter and silinoid work. Looking forward to your progress.
I bought a 1990 Bass Cat Sabre 3 months ago. Working on mine slowly and love your series! She is going to be a nice boat!
Love to hear that!
Looks good so far check all fuses on motor, sucks you had to pull it all apart but make sure to drain the fuel out of those carbs there should be a Philips tip on the bottom of the bowl on the carbs run external tank first than try internal also when you are starting the motor like you are MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE POWER!! That goes to the ignition everyone makes fun of 12v but man if you grab that ignition wrong you won’t be able to let it go🤣 good luck!
Congrats on getting through that wiring nightmare. I can semi relate, hooking up my Panoptix was a nightmare.
Just quick with gell coat you need to seal it for it to cure or it will stay tacky and eat through sandpaper and dirt will stick to it super easy. You get flowcoat witch is just gekl coat with wak this is the right thing just give it a light sand if you want to put something over and your good
So in the future you can test the engine by hooking up jumper cables to the hot on the starter and then the other to the engine block. or wrap a rope around the fly wheel and pull it like a pull start (also a good trick to know incase youre out on the water and your starting battery dies) its also good to remove the spark plugs and spray some oil like wd40 in there to help it out because its been sitting so long but its good to see your motor isnt seized up. next step is to check compression, do a full service, then hook up the gas and get it running, wouldnt want to get it running and end up damaging it in another way. excellent work
also assume it was last run on ethanol fuel and the carbs would need to be cleaned. not harm in trying to run it first but just be prepared to clean it and get a rebuild kit. floats could be bad and the gaskets and definitely all bad
Pull the plugs check compression and also if all the coils are sparking.
Also this block likes to break at the starter mounts make sure all your starter bolts are snug and not missing.
Galvanised nails lol.
Bypass the vro and premix 50:1
Look to see if there is a normal non vro fuel pump aswell for the motor. And use champion plugs aswell. They work better than ngk I found in old evinrude and Johnson's.
I would recommend sea deck on the floor. Dries quicker . Less moisture on your repaired floor.
100% agree on checking spark and compression before getting to gas and oil.
You have to start it to compression test it tho ? 🤔
Not start, just turn over a couple times like you did with the compression gauge in place for 1 spark plug at a time.
Pull all the plugs, insert the compression tester, crank it over 5 x’s, record the reading, move onto the next cylinder. So long as the numbers are within 20% of each other your good with compression. Remember engines need spark bang and blow to run
@@stephenhoward6168 everywhere I read said engine has to be warmed up prior to compression test or it’s not accurate
@@TightlineTV here's a trick.... Do the compression test as it sits. If you happen to get a reading that is low, try squirting an ounce or two of motor oil in the bad cylinder and if it comes up, you've got some ring problems. It'll at least give you a ballpark idea of the health of the rings and valves until you can get it started. You are 100% correct that a warmed up engine will yield more accurate readings, especially for an engine that hasn't run in quite a while. Good luck with the project, it's great watching.
You had me yelling at the screen for most of this video telling you to look at the fuse on the port side. I have had a few people call me with that same no start condition just to find that fuse was bad. I highly recommend investing in a SELOC manual for that motor it has all the info you would ever need for that motor.
Gonna be really nice when your done. There are a lot of dealers selling used out boards that been refurbished some what. Or even rebuilt. That boat would be sweat with a more modern engine.
Good progress! next on the list would be to check for compression and spark on all cyl and replace impeller. I work on OMC engines alot and they are beasts but are known to have alot of problems. Let me know if you have any questions id be happy to help.
hey brother don't forget to squirt you some oil in the cylinders take out your plugs and squirt small in the cylinders spin it over make sure they're good lubricated and then go ahead and fire it up you're doing an excellent job I love your boat brother you doing a dog going good job have a very blessed day and be safe I want to see it run check your compression on it also later on
Thankyou!
This has been a joy to watch.
White rhino liner would be cheaper than Seadek but probably not as cool LOL sounds like the motor wants to fire. If it has spark and compression make sure you change the impeller and the lower end oil before you run her. I had a 96 Basscat Sabre. Loved that boat. Good luck!
change lower unit oil. would be good to bypass the vro like others had said an mix oil in your fuel tank but not killer. no ethanol aloud in this motor!!!!! change water pump or pull of lower unit before starting. As long as it has sat that water pump needs to be replaced anyways if it fails odds are nothing will happen but i have seen them shove pieces of water pump rubber in passages (not fun to fix). if you are going to run with out engine muffs only do so for small periods of time and without the lower unit attached so you don't burn out water pump. go ahead and replace the plugs they are like 2.50 a piece just get the regular plugs nothing fancy needed. wouldn't be a bad idea to put some oil in those cylinders and crank over with plugs out to get everything lubricated in there but not necessary. from there its all about fuel air and spark. carbs probably need to be rebuilt. kits can be found online reasonably. Make sure you are getting spark(lots of videos on this. final thing if you want to check engine health you can rent a compresion tester from oreileys or auto zone and make sure all cylinders are making pressure within 10% of each other(the way there program works you basically pay for there loaner tool and the refund full amount when returned) so long as your compression is good everything else is worth fixing if it is not good you need to move on with a different motor. before putting money into it. sorry this isn't in the best order (i recomend starting with compression test, then waterpump/lower unit oil, then plugs then carbs)but should get you there. enjoy watching your resurrections of this keep up the good work.
The fuse for the t & t and starter is near the starter motor .
Not to shabby for not even using a multimeter the human brain is a powerful tool when used good job man
Thanks! Haha
sounds good just check the airbox before you start it might have debris from critters in it and get sucked in
Awesome series so far, getting far for sure. Also noticed that the barn that the boat was in was from another YT personality. Was shocked when I saw it
I replaced the carpet on the cockpit floor with aqua traction. I really like it and you could get a custom logo created
If your floor was that rotten, I'd be checking that transom for rotten wood
I hit my head on the top of my garage too when I'm standing in my boat
Sup bro, like the other people have said, compression around 90 and make sure you got fuel spark and air and your all set. Nice project
For rust get PB BLASTER works like a dream
I’m sure you’ve got this covered but go ahead and buy the rebuild kits for the carbs and new fuel lines. A new thermostat too possibly a water propeller if needed after the initial start up. New spark plugs. Should be set to at least know this thing will run for you!
Fuse is on the motor!
That 20 Amp fuse is common to fail. When it happens your trim won't work & your motor won't start. If you don't feel like doing a complete re wire call basscat they should be able to get you a new harness for the dash.
i bought a 1989 pantera fixing to do the same thing new wireing if you can se post picture or vidieo would help me vary much
We have a boat that has that motor and when we first went out in it it did not run, sat at the ramp for 30 minutes with a sputtering motor and a pissed off crowd. Ill give you some tips about those motors.
They don't like cold. You got to throw a ton of gas at em to start.
don't leave em sitting without running, otherwise the carbs will clog up a bit. we use non ethanol fuel and that really helps.
they are very hard to start (cold after sitting) , but once you get them going they start turn key. ours typically takes 2-3 turns of a key cold to run.
Use choke before and during starting, continue to use choke as engine starts for 10 seconds.
If you can, idle up the throttle a bit in neutral to assist with starting.
maybe replace fuel lines, the inside deteriorates over time.
its been a pretty reliable motor for us. we just do maintence such as impeller, spark plugs, lower gear fluid, yk.
they are great motors. they scream and haul ass on the lake.
oh, and hook it up to water while starting.
we disconnected our VRO pump which mixes the oil and gas. we just mixed our gas as putting into the tank as the VRO pumps are known to fail and the engine go kaboom.
by the way, your starter sounded a little slow but maybe its just me.
I agree, check compression. may be a little lower than you think but thats how they were made. check spark too.
hope you have fun.
Perfect time to check compression before you hook up the gas.
I had a mid 80s bass cat someone gave me, trailer, boat, and mercury motor. I stripped it all down and wanted to separate the hull and rebuild the stringers and the whole boat but it was a big deal and kind of before youtube got real big and we bought a new house and my wife said that aint coming with us so I hauled it to the dump and paid to get rid of it. It was a 15 foot boat which is too small for my liking anyway.
Excited to see these videos when you post them
Appreciate it 👊🏻
Deep creep for rusty stuff
Glad u got a spark after taking the wires apart
To avoid wood splitting, all you have to do is drill a pilot hole. Makes a much tighter hold than a nail too. Your pilot hole must be drilled according to the size of the screw.
I know but at the risk of the would being soft in spot didn’t want a screw to not grab if that makes sense
Awesome video!! 🔥 keep it up!👍🏻💪
Man if you lived around the Branson mo area I would come and help you with that motor. If you have any questions just hit me up man .
🔥🔥 you’re a whole handyman and a half
👀👀
Stuff up the entire boat. Get white gel coat with UV inhibitor, and hardner and white baby play sand. Get a 5 gallon bucket and do the entire boat it will look like new. Don't buy Total boat go ask a boat supply were the fiberglass supply house is
when you go for the final fireup be sure to have muffs on it don't want to wreck impeller
Ofc, most def will have it hooked to water
Pull the plugs out, squirt some gas down the cylinders and see if it fires up. Should only run for a few seconds. Won't hurt it. Then move on to putting a barrel of water under it and a fuel tank with new fuel lines. Baby steps.
Nice looking boat bro
HEY IS THATS FLAIRS OLD FARM BARN YOU ARE WORKING IN ?
TT
Make sure to hook up water everytime u start it. Piston rings can burn up in seconds
If the engine does run get rid of the VRO pump amd install a regular pulse fuel pump and pre mix gas and oil.
Def will be doing this
Be sure to change the impeller in the water pump before starting it. Sitting for that long the one in there will be dried out and no good
that's a MOMO steering wheel you got there, captain. nice.
Put the prop in 5 gal bucket of water. Don't run engine w/o water due to impeller - they are expensive to repair.
You should be able to buy a new wiring harness for that engine.
Definitely a fuse just did something similar to my boat
I got a procraft , I’m doing everything your doing. I got it to start and ran great after doing the service now it won’t start. I ready to set it on fire.
I know the feeling 😂
If you have fuel, check the timing and spark plugs.
Why not use a multimeter to check wires? Would save time.
Electrical issues are a pain in the ass...nice job!!
Scope those cylinders and compression test ASAP to look for scoring, burning, scarring etc. Just pull the plugs and look. If it is scored no amount of work will restore the engine short of machining cylinders or powerhead replacement……
Dude your about to have a boat that motor needs a couple kicks and about 3 cans of break cleaner and your fishing but definitely don’t run that motor dry hook up a hose good luck god bless bro
😂 it gone be one of them engines that you pray you get to fish the far spots 😂 I’ll eventually replace it but want to see if she’ll run
Lmao bro just keep it close to the bank don’t venture out or she’s gonna be a jon boat real quick lol but she’s got heart stuff was built better in those days might sound like a 67 Chevy smoking like hell but she’ll move lol
Love your work ethic , that said.... you kinda work like a 14 year old boy screws 😊 kinda all over the place 😂
Check under the dash
Watching this a year after, really hoping you have picked up a can of WD40 by the time I catch up. Will help with the rust.
Doing great. It's an awesome feeling to figure it out for yourself and fix it, right?!
Thanks! Def is haha
new plugs hi test ears on fire it up.
U should've checked all the power to the engine first before taking all wires a part. But u will learn I guess while u go through this.
I did haha, trust me I spent hours tinkering and decided days later to pull everything
Put sea foam down there
Go get you some better garage lights. Lowes or Home Depot sells some really good LED lights that are three or four panel. Trust me you won’t regret it.
Watch some newer vids I got some! Haha good looks!
Personally I do not like SeaDek. Carpet is much more clean and simple imo
RussellEauers
It definitely sounds like it wants to pop man I would rewire the whole back of the boat
What sounds like it wants to pop? Haha
@@TightlineTV haha the motor wants to start its a good thing
Looks like you abandoned Larry and the birds 😒
nice
🔥!
It's not a matter of a nail vs screw.. it's a matter of the fact you MUST use stainless on a boat. Otherwise those nails/screws will rust out, very fast..