watching this video made me realize we should have a grounding probe in both the tank AND the sump. tank isn't necessary "connected" by the water at all times and really both need it to be safe
I've found gfcis very helpful. I actually have a tower yellow gfci adapter on every plug in the tank. At 10$ a pop this was really expensive. However like Mark said I would rather the one item go off than be electrocuted. I used to have only 1 on the whole tank, but then one day everything shut off ( and it happened again before I wised up). Thankfully I was around to diagnose but it really scared me. However after going through each device, the gfci was correct popping, a plug was completely corroded, second time it happened years later on another plug, again the whole system went down, completely corroded - again the gfci yellow adapter was correct. Since then I have invested in gfci for every device so when a device dies, it only shuts down that device with the one gfci on it, not the wohle tank, and I immediately know what needs to be replaced - it happened a few times in the last few years [I've been at this for about 10 years now]. The other item possibly worth mentioning is upgrading ac pumps to dc. While our heaters are still ac, the more low volt dc items we can get, the safer we will be. Tested my tank with the volt meter - it reads at 0.5 volts with both ground probes out ( one in the sump and one in the main tank) . Electricity is a scary thing. Also mount those plugs up high, secure surge protectors, and drip loop.
Yep, almost killed myself when enough water got on a strip plug to get it to smoke and start to smoke. I reached and felt a tingle, pulled back, put on rubber gloves, then unplugged the thing from the wall. Scared the shit out of me and I am happy I have my life, not to mention my LEDs.
Watched for 25 minutes. I was being shocked by my aquarium and wanted to know whether I should dispose of all electrical items in this tank or if I could fix them (2 HOB filters and a heater). Sounds like I should test each item and then dispose of the malfunctioning item. More info would have been helpful such as what causes stray voltage. Reference was made to magnetic pumps, it would be nice to know how these pumps work. Will look further.
for motors [powerheads, pumps, etc] i dont think dc is better, because the motor would likely be brushed, and those can get worn out really easily, i think three phase low voltage ac would be best, because single phase ac motors have a tendancy to spin in reverse, while three phase wont do that, and they dont have any brushes that can wear out, and they can be designed to use 12 volts and lower
The pieces of the LCD display are called segments as in seven segment lcd. Question though: Why not take out the 16 items one at a time looking for the meter voltage to drop to zero? It seems like it would be less painful then disabling your entire tank. About aptasia. I have tried Joe's Juice, Lasers and a Majano wand. None will work if you have a side (the back at least usually) out of view. The ONLY way that worked for me 100% is I purchased an Aussie Copperband Butterfly. As a bonus, it ate all the bristle worms that I had (it was a night of the living dead at feed time).
It's not really that big a deal to unplug everything and start from 0. Each item can be plugged in and verified within 15 seconds... within minutes you should know what's causing problems. I've heard the Australian Copperbands are the best ones to get.
@@melevsreef For me, I try to go for minimal effort and if I could remove them one at a time until I find the culprit it would be better assuming that it would identify the issue as accurately. I have two bad hips and am awaiting their replacement (not looking forward to the process...). That Aussie Copperband is amazing!
I’m getting 00.3 volts in one tank and 00.5 in another (both fresh water) is that normal? tested with a multimeter, but my pen volt meter goes crazy by even touching the glass on the tanks, I don’t feel anything when I put my hands in and fish act normal, did get a bunch of Neon Tetras recently and they all died, that’s why I tested my Tanks for everything, but such low voltage can kill fish? or maybe the Neons were sick... Thanks for any input 👍🏽
@@melevsreef I just noticed this comment and your feedback as I was scrolling through. I don't want to come off as condescending in any way as I appreciate your videos and have learned a great deal from you, however this is a safety concern that I should address. It makes no difference if the wall socket in which the negative probe of the volt meter is connected to is switched on or off. The earth terminal you are probing with the volt meter in the wall socket is always connected to the ground conductor of the house/building which is a long probe inserted into the earth below the property, usually via a copper rod etc. The switch only controls the active conductor, not the neutral or earth conductor. In fact it is quite dangerous to perform this operation with a volt meter if the power outlet is switched on, just in case someone accidentally probes the active terminal instead of the earth terminal. Could be harmful or fatal.
1 am introduing blond nasos , adding airline siphon to buckets the airline for water acted like a cable and shocked my hand. Yippee my very large skimmer is leaching lots of angry electron's.
hey, how bout sending a fat ol man. a melevsreef T-shirt-Tony in England????? secondly what anemones do best in 5ft x 2 x 2 MA in your opinion, or that you've had' On electrics, every plus must have an RCD, know need for rubber boots or anything else
Hi what causes electricity current in water , seems to be coming from the T5 when I plug it into another socket seems to be less or go away. What causes it? Bad ground wire in plug? Or too much plugged into one? And what is a good strip or box that does best ground
Awesome thanks, was working to pay for the reef tank, wish I could have caught live stream. Appreciate your knowledge.
watching this video made me realize we should have a grounding probe in both the tank AND the sump. tank isn't necessary "connected" by the water at all times and really both need it to be safe
Isn't it sufficient to have the grounding probe in your sump since the tank and sump are connected via the water flowing up and down.?
@@hokemspitter if you turn the return off, they are not always still connected via water..
I've found gfcis very helpful. I actually have a tower yellow gfci adapter on every plug in the tank. At 10$ a pop this was really expensive. However like Mark said I would rather the one item go off than be electrocuted. I used to have only 1 on the whole tank, but then one day everything shut off ( and it happened again before I wised up). Thankfully I was around to diagnose but it really scared me. However after going through each device, the gfci was correct popping, a plug was completely corroded, second time it happened years later on another plug, again the whole system went down, completely corroded - again the gfci yellow adapter was correct. Since then I have invested in gfci for every device so when a device dies, it only shuts down that device with the one gfci on it, not the wohle tank, and I immediately know what needs to be replaced - it happened a few times in the last few years [I've been at this for about 10 years now]. The other item possibly worth mentioning is upgrading ac pumps to dc. While our heaters are still ac, the more low volt dc items we can get, the safer we will be. Tested my tank with the volt meter - it reads at 0.5 volts with both ground probes out ( one in the sump and one in the main tank) . Electricity is a scary thing. Also mount those plugs up high, secure surge protectors, and drip loop.
I know I'm way late to this party but want to say Marc who much I love the textured wall behind you
Great video you did a great job. I had a heater that went bad and it caused static on my tv.
Phosphate RX is a miracle cure you've recommended. Thank you
Yep, almost killed myself when enough water got on a strip plug to get it to smoke and start to smoke. I reached and felt a tingle, pulled back, put on rubber gloves, then unplugged the thing from the wall. Scared the shit out of me and I am happy I have my life, not to mention my LEDs.
Watched for 25 minutes. I was being shocked by my aquarium and wanted to know whether I should dispose of all electrical items in this tank or if I could fix them (2 HOB filters and a heater). Sounds like I should test each item and then dispose of the malfunctioning item. More info would have been helpful such as what causes stray voltage. Reference was made to magnetic pumps, it would be nice to know how these pumps work. Will look further.
This article may help: www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/45-How-to-Test-for-Stray-Electricity
Never got a notification, so I'm watching today.
for motors [powerheads, pumps, etc] i dont think dc is better, because the motor would likely be brushed, and those can get worn out really easily, i think three phase low voltage ac would be best, because single phase ac motors have a tendancy to spin in reverse, while three phase wont do that, and they dont have any brushes that can wear out, and they can be designed to use 12 volts and lower
The pieces of the LCD display are called segments as in seven segment lcd. Question though: Why not take out the 16 items one at a time looking for the meter voltage to drop to zero? It seems like it would be less painful then disabling your entire tank.
About aptasia. I have tried Joe's Juice, Lasers and a Majano wand. None will work if you have a side (the back at least usually) out of view. The ONLY way that worked for me 100% is I purchased an Aussie Copperband Butterfly. As a bonus, it ate all the bristle worms that I had (it was a night of the living dead at feed time).
It's not really that big a deal to unplug everything and start from 0. Each item can be plugged in and verified within 15 seconds... within minutes you should know what's causing problems.
I've heard the Australian Copperbands are the best ones to get.
@@melevsreef For me, I try to go for minimal effort and if I could remove them one at a time until I find the culprit it would be better assuming that it would identify the issue as accurately. I have two bad hips and am awaiting their replacement (not looking forward to the process...).
That Aussie Copperband is amazing!
I’m getting 00.3 volts in one tank and 00.5 in another (both fresh water) is that normal? tested with a multimeter, but my pen volt meter goes crazy by even touching the glass on the tanks, I don’t feel anything when I put my hands in and fish act normal, did get a bunch of Neon Tetras recently and they all died, that’s why I tested my Tanks for everything, but such low voltage can kill fish? or maybe the Neons were sick...
Thanks for any input 👍🏽
Is Fluconazole good for any other types of algae, or only bryopsis?
Having issues with cyano... try seeding your tank with Munnid Isopods.
Never heard they'd eat cyanobacteria.
When measuring with the meter the black wire connected the the grounding is the switch of the outlet suppose to be on or off
It would be on, as you are looking for stray electricity.
@@melevsreef I just noticed this comment and your feedback as I was scrolling through. I don't want to come off as condescending in any way as I appreciate your videos and have learned a great deal from you, however this is a safety concern that I should address. It makes no difference if the wall socket in which the negative probe of the volt meter is connected to is switched on or off. The earth terminal you are probing with the volt meter in the wall socket is always connected to the ground conductor of the house/building which is a long probe inserted into the earth below the property, usually via a copper rod etc. The switch only controls the active conductor, not the neutral or earth conductor. In fact it is quite dangerous to perform this operation with a volt meter if the power outlet is switched on, just in case someone accidentally probes the active terminal instead of the earth terminal. Could be harmful or fatal.
“... even cold November rain...” 🌧 ☔️
😎👍
My ph probe is leaking some voltage into the tank , is that normal or should i replace the probe ? When i have a scratch it always gives me the zapp.
I doubt it is coming from the pH probe. It would be more likely from a powerhead.
@@melevsreef yea , looks like my new nero 3 is doing it.
Learned this the hard today when my ato failed and leaked on the carpet. Went to take the sensor out and almost got knocked off of my feet.
1 am introduing blond nasos , adding airline siphon to buckets the airline for water acted like a cable and shocked my hand. Yippee my very large skimmer is leaching lots of angry electron's.
i don't have a voltmeter , can i just scratch my finger ?:P
Lol, no.
good
Love your vids but way to many adds thumbs though😀
Thanks for letting me know, I didn't realize there were so many in this video. I'll fix that.
About 80% of what u said about this subject is wrong not trying to put you down but do more research before you talk about stuff like this
Can you elaborate for someone trying to learn about this.
hey, how bout sending a fat ol man. a melevsreef T-shirt-Tony in England?????
secondly what anemones do best in 5ft x 2 x 2 MA in your opinion, or that you've had' On electrics, every plus must have an RCD, know need for rubber boots or anything else
What is RCD and are here good power strips or box for fish tanks to help with grounding
Hi what causes electricity current in water , seems to be coming from the T5 when I plug it into another socket seems to be less or go away. What causes it? Bad ground wire in plug? Or too much plugged into one? And what is a good strip or box that does best ground
its too much to digest lol