It's funny (and creepy) how closely things are connected on Google. I have never seen Fielding before in my life... but somehow his design process video popped up in my recommended, so I watched... Only hours later, I watched this video by subscription :D . Imagine my surprise when he said "sorry Jeremy" and I knew exactly who he was talking about with the modeling of threads.
I'm glad you included the vacuum attachment. Story time on why and a expensive lesson learned below: I was a hobbyist welder for ~5 years and almost exclusively used TIG and regularly used Thoridated Tungsten. I sharpened my tips using a bench grinder and fine stone I only used for tungten. I did it by hand, the stone spinning "away" from me, in a large well ventilated space, and with my face several feet away (the joy of good eyesight). I thought there was no real risk of my inhaling the fine particles and my thought at the time was that most metals are inert so I wasn't concerned. I recently found I have dangerously elevated thorium levels in my body and more recently finished my chelation therapy to get it and other heavy metals I have been exposed to under control. The only place I have been exposed to thorium is through welding. The thorium levels considered dangerous are very low. I had slowly deteriorating health through my late 20's and early 30's, was fit and exercised, ate ok, and had no underlying conditions and no doctor willing to test for odd/rare causes. Doing a LOT of reading and evaluating my few symptoms, prior tests, past hobbies, and jobs I suspected heavy metals as a possible cause and sought out an "alternative medicine" practitioner as they were the only ones, in my experience, who would even test for such things. I'm very glad I did.
hope your doing better now. May I ask how such toxic levels are actually treated? Does anyone know whether vacuuming the particles is actually safe (as in not blown through the room through the vacuums exhaust because they are too small)
Excellent work. I dropped your design on the 3D printer, grabbed my Dremel tool (has the same threads as the Milwaukee) and a diamond disc that was laying around, machined some brass.... Voila! I have a tungsten grinder. Thank you for the effort and thorough walk-through of Fusion 360.
I just want to say that I really appreciate your videos. Showing the design process is extremely fascinating. The fact that your CAD skills are on par (probably better) with engineers doing CAD work daily is insane.
I watch your videos and really enjoy them. I am a retired WAN backbone manager and it amazes me you have the time to do this. My phone rang off the hook 24x7, lol. Anyhow as i said i really enjoy the videos.
“Well that’s all I’ve got fo you today” Once again I’ve learnt more Fusion360 tips that I would have never figured out on my own. I don’t yet tog weld but might just have to model one of these for the hell of it. Thanks James.
I was thinking maybe a second 'sighting ' hole 180 degrees away. You could put a tungsten across and let the arbor push up against it to set the height.
Alternately, instead of a sighting hole, a similar geometry just a little higher could've been a place to put a dowel pin as a stop. Spacer sounds better though.
When I saw him spacing it above the hub I was thinking the same thing. I don't think I would 3d print it though. Brass bushing would hold its dimension better and be more durable
You sir are a master! I consider myself to be very fluent in Fusion and I picked up some very handy “next level” techniques from your smooth and intelligent techniques. Thank you 🙏
Thank you also for showing how you modeled the part in Fusion 360. I'm just starting to learn it and your teaching style is great. I used 1/4" x 20 nylon cap screws instead of the brass. I've had problems with to much heat transfer through metal egg shaping the threaded holes in my printed parts and the cap screws are easy to take out with your fingers. I might also color code them for the different size tungsten's. Great work.
I've printed a similar attachment for a small 75mm (~3 inch) angle grinder. I used teflon tubing usually used as bowden tubes to shield the print from the heat. Held up well so far.
Thanks James. Can't say I've taken the plunge for TIG (no room for the gas bottles unfortunately) but some of the modelling tricks were really handy to know - specifically the thread chamfer and the offset start and extrude backwards techniques. Beautiful results too! On a 3D printing front, I want to share a solution that I just picked up. Glass bed, wipe down with acetone before printing PETG....no adhesion. IPA, no change. Finally found a suggestion to wash with dish soap (Fairy liquid / Dawn) and that worked absolute wonders. Sticking like it used to but with no lift at the edges at all. Better top layer too as a result of a better base. Thrilled with the change. Just on the off-chance it's helpful to anyone reading (or to you!).
Really cook project. I bought one of these years ago and use it a ton and you should interpret that as someone who dip the tungsten in the puddle all too often. Great work and thanks for the CAD tutorial.
Nice 👌 Another idea...when using 2 disc mounted together...then use the outer circle to grind. In that case you have perfect axial grinding lines. Only need 'new design' for the holes and the grinded surface will not be straight but slightly hollow. In my experience that hollow shape appears not to be negative. I loved you video as I also use my mounted big grinder and takes much time. Thanks from Holland
Just finished mine. It took a bit to get the setscrews drilled out since I Used a drill press instead of a lathe. It took drilling a tapping a 1/4-20 hole in a block of aluminum, and using the tap to line up the hole so the drill bit was centered I the setscrew. I used 3d solutechs carbon fiber nylon, something I have been very happy with, (other than hard to get) I used "tree supports" and they seemed to break off much easier than the more standard support styles
just a quick thought, if the tip grinder gets too hot. You could always line u'r plastic part with sheet metal, and insulation... this is why U'r so helpful! as well as having a super creative ability. U have a steady work ethic, that get's the job completed. which in-turn creates products, that will last for decades!! ''again'' well done!!
Excellent tungsten grinder build James! Very practical, tho I think a better job on the grinds can be had by spinning them in a drill as compared to hand, but still good quality usable points none the less!
Thanks for uploading the STL file. It printed great on my resin printer. I printed it with no infill, solid. I used Siraya Tech Build Non-Brittle Tappable Engineering 3D Printing Resin. I had problems with the normal resin where it would crack if I tried to tap a part. I used minimal supports and had no problem cleaning it up. Thanks again.
wow thanks for showing us the modeling process in fusion. love fusion and actually taught myself how to use 6 months prior to getting my 3d printer because, I didn't want to print other people's designs I wanted to print mine :) Great tip on moving the timeline didn't know you could do that......
One of the ebay ones used delrin. It's machinable and high heat resistant. Been using the tungsten mate for almost a year absolutely no worries. The bottom does need exhaust holes counter drilled to the rotation and at the grind point for exhaust. You are right the powder gets into the bearings and just kills them
Great video. Love the Fusion 360 tips. Thanks for publishing the f3z model on Printables so I could modify it to fit my Eastwood TG1800. The Eastwood only works for two angles and two sizes of tungsten so this was a great upgrade. I did post a remix that uses torch collets instead of set screws so you don't have to drill or buy anything.
I tig in the high tech field, mostly on 316 stainless. I have a tooth pick dispenser that feeds me tungsten's and when I get a sizable pile (30'ish), I sharpen them on our diamond wheel grinder that is set to about 30 degrees. To speed things up, I use a brushless 12v Dewalt impact with a 1/4" keyless drill chuck adapter. You can find them for $10 on amazon.
I didn’t expect the vacuum for this tiny quantity of grinding. It’s cool that you reverse engineered a product from Amazon and at the same time made new content.
There are valid concerns about the health effects of tungsten grinding dust. I think most occupational health standards now require totally enclosed tungsten grinders. For my use in the home shop, it's probably not a big deal, but this will also help keep the abrasives out of the motor bearings.
Not a machinist, never welded. First time hearing about the radioactive hazard of this metal. Short of using complex grinding tool, vacuum and respirator, only alternative I can think of is using a jig like Lansky filing system, but wet grinding it with a diamond file. I suppose inhaling won’t be a problem that way.
It's been an exciting journey watching you go from a DIY machinist to an accomplished one. Thanks so much for the Fusion 360 tutorials. I am trying to learn the system so the way you describe it and explain how to use the features is fantastic. Thank you. Keep the videos and projects coming.
I know everyone has other ideas, but I put a cup wheel in the lathe. Use the the tool holder with bushing. Now you have full control of angles and feeds. Just have to put paper or card board over ways to control the dust. I use the lathe for brush, and disk sanding wheels too. Love the printed shroud idea, but I am to lazy ! : )
There are lots of ways to do it. I went this route so it would be portable, but then again, my welder isn't super portable, so there may not be much point. :)
About the angled threaded holes. I woul have extended the body outwards forming a boss instaed of counterboring inwards to clean up the beginning of the thread. That way you get more thread not less. It's better for stability and wear.
3D printed fixtures and jigs are great for things like this, especially if you have to make changes and do multiple revisions. Also, nice little jab at Jeremy there. I too like having a workstation powerful enough to model threads.
I'm just going to throw out there that I'm lazy and the 3d printer I built last takes 2 or 3 lifetimes to calibrate correctly. (New one soon, hopefully the newer main boards will make the calibrations less painful). But that's a nice enough design I might actually try it out. Really clean design with what seems like a good combination of features without making it a huge pain to set-up. And the vacuum port is a really well thought out addition that I hadn't thought was important. But it is pretty bad stuff to get in your lungs and a pretty simple solution. Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Those diamond wheels for a dremel are marvelous. I grind everything from drill bits to carbide single point lathe tools with mine. I also have a tool post rig to screw the dremel into for grinding on the lathe. I made videos of some of it.
I've fallen in love with diamond discs which are intended for rock polishing, but they're the same size as a DVD, the center hole fits on a bench grinder arbor, and the only cost about 10 bucks apiece. I put a 300 grit and a 1200 grit back-to-back (they're single sided) and freehand my TIG tungstens (primitive, I know.) The tips are beautiful! I wish I had the microscope video camera.
Awesome video, great design, nice results. Also using cordless grinder and then bolting the device to a table and connecting a shop vacuum made my day :D
Love this build James! Thank you for the STL and a thorough explanation of the parts and process. I look forward to your videos every Saturday . Keep up the great work.
I have a tungsten grinder - well all the parts needed to make your one hiding in my workshop somewhere , just need to print the housing and put it together ! That was a great video James , I learned quite a few things from it and thank you for putting the files up on thingiverse !
Printed your tig grinding jig using my Prusa i3 Mk3S. Used stainless set screws drilled to 3/32 in. because that's what I use the most. Will also be drilling screws for 1/16. Your jig works great! I also posted a make in Thingiverse. From a fellow Fusion 360 user, thanks for your generosity in sharing this design.
Great video James. What I like about your videos is it helps me to improve other project I am working on by giving me ideas. I could see using this to make a drill bit sharpener.
Great project! I enjoy you showing the design with CAD, though I dont have a CAD program, this makes me want one! It will be nice having a dedicated tool for this instead of using the bench grinder for certain. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and project!!
I just bought a small belt grinder from AliExpress (30 x 533mm belt size) for US$50, one that have both horizontal and vertical surface, and make a vaccum shroud for the horizontal part. If you want consistent grinding angle just make some rest jig. To get almost perfect geometric shape i just stick the tungsten to my bosch battery drill, and rotate it slowly while running the belt at highest speed... the scratch is perfectly straight/vertical end to end. The only downside is it's not portable. But i dont mind that because i grind all my tungsten before i start working. Have like at least 10 sharp and clean tungsten before i start.
There's a number of ways to make horizontal holes without supports. For this model I'd probably replace the hose adapter with a teardrop hole in the vertical cylinder. Then you could make a second part that adapts the teardrop shape to the vacuum hose but printable in a more favorable orientation. It is also possible to print in a "V" orientation with external support, although this can mess with threads.
FYI The one you modeled your design after also has a Slot in the side for setting the height of the diamond wheel instead of the hole but either way will work. Also their you can move the brass inserts to accommodate different size Tungsten with any angle you desire..
James, great video! I downloaded the Fusion File and had to modify it slightly for the style grinder I had but printed perfectly and works great. Thank you for sharing!
i have to admit, at first i wasnt sure about this, but by the end of the video i was really impressed with how everything turned out. thanks for sharing your stl, i am going to try to print this tonight!
Great Job! Once you get your disc or mandrel height set, I'd maybe imprint an embossed feature on the side of the tool, for setting the height. Or just make a seperate jig for it. Assuming your aren't dedicating the tool to this task. Gotta love the 3D printing aspect. My best weapon on support material remove are various pliers, and stiff tweezers. That the downside of increasing nozzle size as well; supports become much more robust. I love those cheap diamond discs. Lots of uses. Much nicer than the emery discs of old. Cheaper too!
One thing to note: "Class" 3 is tighter tolerance which translates to less clearance between the mating thread form. If one desires a looser 'fit' then choose Class 2 for the tolerance. The "B" for those who don't know denotes inside (I.D.) threads where "A" denotes exterior (O.D.) threads After spending many hours modeling this, you should think about marketing the item to recoup the time invested in modeling and producing the content. Not many DIY guys have a 3D printer. Just a suggestion. Cheers!
those cheap diamond coated dremel wheels are also nice for cutting or sharpening very hard materials .. i (mis) use them as pretty much cut-everything discs
James, Another REALLY informative video. Great F360 tips too 👌 I bought one of these ‘adapt-to-a-Dremel’ grinding jigs ( on-line), but yours is a better design with the vacuum hose ( particularly as I use Thoriated 😱 tungstens). Thanks heaps for the time and effort you put into your channel. Regards Robert
@@DavidLindes @David Lindes if I remember correctly there's a comment that's explaining that there's some family related problems and he needs a break. I don't know what happened and I don't question for how long. But a little poke to get him excited should not harm. 😜 I hope if Tony sees it (may be very low chances) that he'd get at least a little smile.
@@5Breaker a little smile or something to know he’s still alive and (hopefully, more or less) well would indeed be nice. Video content (while it would also be nice) can wait. :)
For 3D print support, dissolvable filaments are expensive, and for supporting trapped internal volumes there's no substitute, but if you are going dual material you can use an incompatible plastic (such as PLA + PRTG - either can be your part and the other used as support) as a cheap support material which wont strongly bond.
PVA is about 1.5 time the cost of PLA. I have this for my Ultimaker S3, unfortunately, PVA (in my opinion and experience) does not live up to the hype. The filament gets extremely brittle and breaks in the bowden tubes causing printing to stop or failures. It also takes hours to dissolve completely, even after breaking away most of the supports. Of course I'm sure there is someone that would say its me. Again, just my experiences after a year of trial and error.
@@VanTekConsulting I agree, I don't use the stuff (soluble supports) myself because of the hassle and because I design almost everything I print so I design for printability - and I've never delved into the fiber fill stuff either - but you absolutely need to keep any such material bone dry all the way to the print head. Frankly, I'd feed it to my printer directly out of a food dehydrator shielded by PTFE guiding it as close to the hot end as practical then never leave it sitting in the tube between prints. I'd treat nylon the same as it reaches saturation in about 18hr's if the spool is left out, I'm sure PVA is even faster. It could also be helpful to go oversized on the PTFE tube - maybe 3-4mm (assuming 1.75mm filament) to give it more room to "be stiff" and not break. Anyway, I don't think it's "just you" ;)
Who's on the edge of their seat waiting to see how James tightens the collet once the new fixture is attached and the cutting wheel is already in place?
Exquisite job, James. Everything you make is very classy (as home made stuff goes) and well thought out, definitely many notches above average. Love watching your videos, and always learn a thing or two from them. Ciao, Marco.
Nice job James - the direction of rotation should go towards the operator though to avoid the tungsten being dragged it, just like you'd do on a bench grinder
I had the same issues with supports until I changed the contact z distance and the xy separation. I use .25mm for contact z and 75% for xy separation. It makes a world of difference.
I'll give it a try. I really wish Simplify3D had an option to print dense support on the top, but leave it out for support built over a finished surface. Both of those are pretty easy to remove. I'll try increasing the Z separation. I was a little afraid of losing control of the inside dimension if I increased it over .1mm.
Cool! Now combine it with small hand-held battery powered brushless car vacuum, something like "70mai Vacuum Cleaner Swift" and you'll have small, highly portable and stand-alone solution for thungsten grinding.
You can make a 3d printed shim that goes on the shaft of the adapter that holdes the grinding disk that automatically has it at the right height. When you get a different height system, just change the Z height of the shim
Hi James! You could design the inner upper half of the vacuum port with 45° "roof" surfaces instead of the steeper cirular overhangs to print that part without supports. Anyways, always looking forward to your videos!
Nice project! I use 0.3 - 0.35 mm gap in PETG for custom supports separation. Not sure what is best for NylonX but a few test prints should give you the right gap that holds well enough to print but easy enough to remove. I hate generated supports as they waste too much print time and material, plus they can be very difficult to remove. You can build any design to print without generated supports by adding breakaway supports to the model only where they are needed.
you can optimize ! all the 4 angles to point somewhere else to the wheel , so you can use all the surface of the diamond wheel , not only the middle. ;) ( maybe just forcing the sticks against the brass center can do that job also ) sorry for my english
I'm with AWDjr just a cheep 6 inch grinder harbor freight with a 6 inch diamond plate wheel and a cheep drill. I can sharpen a dozen tips in just a couple minutes to exactly what work for job.
You should make a spacer for the collet of the rotary tool so it positions the grinding wheel at the perfect height. Then you wouldn't need to look through your hole to adjust it.
"Lets spend more time and money then i would take to just buy one..." This is the story of my life... But then I get that "pride" of having many unfinished projects and pride of ownership of the stuff you ended up buying anyway. WINNER!!
Maybe add a tab on the outside to gauge the arbor length against, or install a pin into the sight hole instead (move up by radius). Maybe length from end of mounting tab to body of jig (or a boss on the side) is an easy location for a gauge.
Hi James I did enjoy the video I just printed this fitting off on my Ender 3 pro in PLA i sprinted perfectly thank you I don't know if it will be strong enough in Place but we will find out. I am knew at this and all but having a lot of fun thanks for the great content
Milwaukee fills my tool box…yet if I can do something the way my grandfather did it..using spit and baling string..I try that first. The Drexel sharpener is perfectly adequate for the average welder that goes through 20-30 tips per year.
I buy the cheap replacement 4" diamond wheels for the Harbor Freight Saw Blade Sharpener and mount them outboard of my bench grinder wheel using an aluminum spacer that I turned. I spin the tungstens in my cordless drill near the periphery of the wheel and quickly bring them to whatever point I desire. For trimming tungstens, hold it on a flat metal surface with a sharp edge and rap the overhung portion with something (I use my MIG pliers) and the tungstens will cleanly snap at the sharp edge.
That's a good idea. I always forget that I can stack up multiple wheels on a grinder arbor. I also love the use of MIG pliers as a hammer. There's an old TFS video out there somewhere where the running joke is that every tool in a welder's toolbox is a hammer. :)
I actually can't use my MIG pliers for that anymore because I followed the hilarious example of another Tuber and my MIG pliers are now welded to a short chain which is in turn fastened to my welding cart, so that I always know where to look for them. Adam Savage wrote a book entitled "Every Tool's A Hammer".
I see I'm not the only one that enjoyed Fielding's design process video this past week.
Yeah, he's awesome.
It's funny (and creepy) how closely things are connected on Google. I have never seen Fielding before in my life... but somehow his design process video popped up in my recommended, so I watched... Only hours later, I watched this video by subscription :D . Imagine my surprise when he said "sorry Jeremy" and I knew exactly who he was talking about with the modeling of threads.
I'm glad you included the vacuum attachment. Story time on why and a expensive lesson learned below:
I was a hobbyist welder for ~5 years and almost exclusively used TIG and regularly used Thoridated Tungsten. I sharpened my tips using a bench grinder and fine stone I only used for tungten. I did it by hand, the stone spinning "away" from me, in a large well ventilated space, and with my face several feet away (the joy of good eyesight). I thought there was no real risk of my inhaling the fine particles and my thought at the time was that most metals are inert so I wasn't concerned.
I recently found I have dangerously elevated thorium levels in my body and more recently finished my chelation therapy to get it and other heavy metals I have been exposed to under control. The only place I have been exposed to thorium is through welding. The thorium levels considered dangerous are very low.
I had slowly deteriorating health through my late 20's and early 30's, was fit and exercised, ate ok, and had no underlying conditions and no doctor willing to test for odd/rare causes. Doing a LOT of reading and evaluating my few symptoms, prior tests, past hobbies, and jobs I suspected heavy metals as a possible cause and sought out an "alternative medicine" practitioner as they were the only ones, in my experience, who would even test for such things. I'm very glad I did.
hope your doing better now. May I ask how such toxic levels are actually treated?
Does anyone know whether vacuuming the particles is actually safe (as in not blown through the room through the vacuums exhaust because they are too small)
This is an impressive number of concepts brought together into a single project. Thanks for the inspiration(s).
Excellent work. I dropped your design on the 3D printer, grabbed my Dremel tool (has the same threads as the Milwaukee) and a diamond disc that was laying around, machined some brass.... Voila! I have a tungsten grinder. Thank you for the effort and thorough walk-through of Fusion 360.
Very cool!
Thom,
Thanks for sharing! I have two Dremel tools already so it's nice to know that I don't need a 3rd rotary tool to make one of these for myself.
I just want to say that I really appreciate your videos. Showing the design process is extremely fascinating. The fact that your CAD skills are on par (probably better) with engineers doing CAD work daily is insane.
bit of a broad statement m8
@@ikbendusan what is
I watch your videos and really enjoy them. I am a retired WAN backbone manager and it amazes me you have the time to do this. My phone rang off the hook 24x7, lol. Anyhow as i said i really enjoy the videos.
“Well that’s all I’ve got fo you today” Once again I’ve learnt more Fusion360 tips that I would have never figured out on my own. I don’t yet tog weld but might just have to model one of these for the hell of it. Thanks James.
You could print a spacer that fits on the shaft of your cut off wheel, so you don't have to sight it in. Just an idea.
Yes, and that would work for this one shaft and wheel setup. Honestly, now that it's set, it'll probably just stay installed.
@@Clough42 that makes sense. I didn't know if you wanted to keep it for just that purpose or not.
I was thinking maybe a second 'sighting ' hole 180 degrees away. You could put a tungsten across and let the arbor push up against it to set the height.
Alternately, instead of a sighting hole, a similar geometry just a little higher could've been a place to put a dowel pin as a stop. Spacer sounds better though.
When I saw him spacing it above the hub I was thinking the same thing. I don't think I would 3d print it though. Brass bushing would hold its dimension better and be more durable
BEST-INTRO-EVER. Pretty much sums up everything i do in my shop.
You sir are a master!
I consider myself to be very fluent in Fusion and I picked up some very handy “next level” techniques from your smooth and intelligent techniques.
Thank you 🙏
Thank you also for showing how you modeled the part in Fusion 360. I'm just starting to learn it and your teaching style is great. I used 1/4" x 20 nylon cap screws instead of the brass. I've had problems with to much heat transfer through metal egg shaping the threaded holes in my printed parts and the cap screws are easy to take out with your fingers. I might also color code them for the different size tungsten's. Great work.
You rock for putting it out there for the community! Great job with including the vacuum port
Thanks for sharing the STL for the model, and this is a great project!
I've printed a similar attachment for a small 75mm (~3 inch) angle grinder. I used teflon tubing usually used as bowden tubes to shield the print from the heat. Held up well so far.
Thanks James. Can't say I've taken the plunge for TIG (no room for the gas bottles unfortunately) but some of the modelling tricks were really handy to know - specifically the thread chamfer and the offset start and extrude backwards techniques.
Beautiful results too!
On a 3D printing front, I want to share a solution that I just picked up. Glass bed, wipe down with acetone before printing PETG....no adhesion. IPA, no change. Finally found a suggestion to wash with dish soap (Fairy liquid / Dawn) and that worked absolute wonders. Sticking like it used to but with no lift at the edges at all. Better top layer too as a result of a better base. Thrilled with the change. Just on the off-chance it's helpful to anyone reading (or to you!).
Really cook project. I bought one of these years ago and use it a ton and you should interpret that as someone who dip the tungsten in the puddle all too often. Great work and thanks for the CAD tutorial.
Nice 👌
Another idea...when using 2 disc mounted together...then use the outer circle to grind.
In that case you have perfect axial grinding lines.
Only need 'new design' for the holes and the grinded surface will not be straight but slightly hollow. In my experience that hollow shape appears not to be negative. I loved you video as I also use my mounted big grinder and takes much time. Thanks from Holland
Just finished mine. It took a bit to get the setscrews drilled out since I Used a drill press instead of a lathe. It took drilling a tapping a 1/4-20 hole in a block of aluminum, and using the tap to line up the hole so the drill bit was centered I the setscrew.
I used 3d solutechs carbon fiber nylon, something I have been very happy with, (other than hard to get) I used "tree supports" and they seemed to break off much easier than the more standard support styles
just a quick thought, if the tip grinder gets too hot. You could always line u'r plastic part with sheet metal, and insulation...
this is why U'r so helpful! as well as having a super creative ability. U have a steady work ethic, that get's the job completed. which in-turn creates products, that will last for decades!! ''again'' well done!!
Excellent tungsten grinder build James! Very practical, tho I think a better job on the grinds can be had by spinning them in a drill as compared to hand, but still good quality usable points none the less!
Thanks for uploading the STL file. It printed great on my resin printer. I printed it with no infill, solid. I used Siraya Tech Build Non-Brittle Tappable Engineering 3D Printing Resin. I had problems with the normal resin where it would crack if I tried to tap a part. I used minimal supports and had no problem cleaning it up. Thanks again.
wow thanks for showing us the modeling process in fusion. love fusion and actually taught myself how to use 6 months prior to getting my 3d printer because, I didn't want to print other people's designs I wanted to print mine :) Great tip on moving the timeline didn't know you could do that......
One of the ebay ones used delrin. It's machinable and high heat resistant. Been using the tungsten mate for almost a year absolutely no worries. The bottom does need exhaust holes counter drilled to the rotation and at the grind point for exhaust. You are right the powder gets into the bearings and just kills them
I have a chunk of delrin, but didn't want to set up the dividing head to mill the compound angles.
Great video. Love the Fusion 360 tips. Thanks for publishing the f3z model on Printables so I could modify it to fit my Eastwood TG1800. The Eastwood only works for two angles and two sizes of tungsten so this was a great upgrade. I did post a remix that uses torch collets instead of set screws so you don't have to drill or buy anything.
I tig in the high tech field, mostly on 316 stainless. I have a tooth pick dispenser that feeds me tungsten's and when I get a sizable pile (30'ish), I sharpen them on our diamond wheel grinder that is set to about 30 degrees. To speed things up, I use a brushless 12v Dewalt impact with a 1/4" keyless drill chuck adapter. You can find them for $10 on amazon.
I didn’t expect the vacuum for this tiny quantity of grinding. It’s cool that you reverse engineered a product from Amazon and at the same time made new content.
Tungsten welding electrodes typically contain thorium, so even small quantities of dust are a significant hazard.
There are valid concerns about the health effects of tungsten grinding dust. I think most occupational health standards now require totally enclosed tungsten grinders. For my use in the home shop, it's probably not a big deal, but this will also help keep the abrasives out of the motor bearings.
Not a machinist, never welded. First time hearing about the radioactive hazard of this metal.
Short of using complex grinding tool, vacuum and respirator, only alternative I can think of is using a jig like Lansky filing system, but wet grinding it with a diamond file. I suppose inhaling won’t be a problem that way.
Perfect usage for the material. Thumbs up
Great job figuring out the set screw holes! I suspect a fair amount of behind the scene trial and error, but it’s the results that count. 😊
You provide a wide range of content on your channel. I’m especially interested in the 3D content at this time. Thanks!
I'm a fan of modeled threads too. Not sure why but it's nice to have them there. Great build!
It's been an exciting journey watching you go from a DIY machinist to an accomplished one. Thanks so much for the Fusion 360 tutorials. I am trying to learn the system so the way you describe it and explain how to use the features is fantastic. Thank you. Keep the videos and projects coming.
I know everyone has other ideas, but I put a cup wheel in the lathe. Use the the tool holder with bushing. Now you have full control of angles and feeds. Just have to put paper or card board over ways to control the dust. I use the lathe for brush, and disk sanding wheels too. Love the printed shroud idea, but I am to lazy ! : )
There are lots of ways to do it. I went this route so it would be portable, but then again, my welder isn't super portable, so there may not be much point. :)
About the angled threaded holes. I woul have extended the body outwards forming a boss instaed of counterboring inwards to clean up the beginning of the thread. That way you get more thread not less. It's better for stability and wear.
3D printed fixtures and jigs are great for things like this, especially if you have to make changes and do multiple revisions.
Also, nice little jab at Jeremy there. I too like having a workstation powerful enough to model threads.
Nachgebaut und bin begeistert günstig, genau und einfach nachzubauen
Danke!
I'm just going to throw out there that I'm lazy and the 3d printer I built last takes 2 or 3 lifetimes to calibrate correctly. (New one soon, hopefully the newer main boards will make the calibrations less painful). But that's a nice enough design I might actually try it out. Really clean design with what seems like a good combination of features without making it a huge pain to set-up. And the vacuum port is a really well thought out addition that I hadn't thought was important. But it is pretty bad stuff to get in your lungs and a pretty simple solution. Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Those diamond wheels for a dremel are marvelous. I grind everything from drill bits to carbide single point lathe tools with mine. I also have a tool post rig to screw the dremel into for grinding on the lathe. I made videos of some of it.
I've fallen in love with diamond discs which are intended for rock polishing, but they're the same size as a DVD, the center hole fits on a bench grinder arbor, and the only cost about 10 bucks apiece. I put a 300 grit and a 1200 grit back-to-back (they're single sided) and freehand my TIG tungstens (primitive, I know.) The tips are beautiful! I wish I had the microscope video camera.
I enjoyed the modeling of the part, great video
Awesome video, great design, nice results. Also using cordless grinder and then bolting the device to a table and connecting a shop vacuum made my day :D
Very nice. Would really like to see someone make something like this for a die grinder (more power, less worry about overheating the little wheel).
Very Nice design and build. I like it. I am already thinking of upgrades for this project. Thanks for sharing James.
Thats great engineering! Thanks for sharing! Make one and perhaps even a Seconds one as a present for a friend!!
Love this build James! Thank you for the STL and a thorough explanation of the parts and process. I look forward to your videos every Saturday . Keep up the great work.
Great video. Love the modeling walk-through
Jezzus! Thank you for that thread/chamfer tip! That sure beats out my method of rotating a cutting sketch along that hole!
Now that was a Fantastic video, Thank You Very Much. Very cool project done very well.
I have a tungsten grinder - well all the parts needed to make your one hiding in my workshop somewhere , just need to print the housing and put it together !
That was a great video James , I learned quite a few things from it and thank you for putting the files up on thingiverse !
Man I’m saving this video! I’m gonna print one of these as soon as I buy a printer. Cheers!
Printed your tig grinding jig using my Prusa i3 Mk3S. Used stainless set screws drilled to 3/32 in. because that's what I use the most. Will also be drilling screws for 1/16. Your jig works great! I also posted a make in Thingiverse. From a fellow Fusion 360 user, thanks for your generosity in sharing this design.
What material did you use. Can PLA be used instead of the NylonX?
@@Vikramslm
I used black PETG.
Great job James. Thanks for including the Fusion tips. Now I know the utility of angled construction planes.
Great video James. What I like about your videos is it helps me to improve other project I am working on by giving me ideas. I could see using this to make a drill bit sharpener.
I like it Thank you for spending the time to make the video
Great project! I enjoy you showing the design with CAD, though I dont have a CAD program, this makes me want one! It will be nice having a dedicated tool for this instead of using the bench grinder for certain. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and project!!
Great job. I have a corded grinder, but I may make this to have a cordless one.
I just bought a small belt grinder from AliExpress (30 x 533mm belt size) for US$50, one that have both horizontal and vertical surface, and make a vaccum shroud for the horizontal part. If you want consistent grinding angle just make some rest jig. To get almost perfect geometric shape i just stick the tungsten to my bosch battery drill, and rotate it slowly while running the belt at highest speed... the scratch is perfectly straight/vertical end to end.
The only downside is it's not portable. But i dont mind that because i grind all my tungsten before i start working. Have like at least 10 sharp and clean tungsten before i start.
There's a number of ways to make horizontal holes without supports. For this model I'd probably replace the hose adapter with a teardrop hole in the vertical cylinder. Then you could make a second part that adapts the teardrop shape to the vacuum hose but printable in a more favorable orientation.
It is also possible to print in a "V" orientation with external support, although this can mess with threads.
FYI The one you modeled your design after also has a Slot in the side for setting the height of the diamond wheel instead of the hole but either way will work. Also their you can move the brass inserts to accommodate different size Tungsten with any angle you desire..
James, great video! I downloaded the Fusion File and had to modify it slightly for the style grinder I had but printed perfectly and works great. Thank you for sharing!
A small rubber O-ring around the tungsten could work as a stop against moving in and out from the wheel. Could make grinding more consistent.
Nice project. Thanks for the Fusion 360 tips.
You bet!
i have to admit, at first i wasnt sure about this, but by the end of the video i was really impressed with how everything turned out. thanks for sharing your stl, i am going to try to print this tonight!
Great Job! Once you get your disc or mandrel height set, I'd maybe imprint an embossed feature on the side of the tool, for setting the height. Or just make a seperate jig for it. Assuming your aren't dedicating the tool to this task. Gotta love the 3D printing aspect. My best weapon on support material remove are various pliers, and stiff tweezers. That the downside of increasing nozzle size as well; supports become much more robust. I love those cheap diamond discs. Lots of uses. Much nicer than the emery discs of old. Cheaper too!
One thing to note: "Class" 3 is tighter tolerance which translates to less clearance between the mating thread form. If one desires a looser 'fit' then choose Class 2 for the tolerance. The "B" for those who don't know denotes inside (I.D.) threads where "A" denotes exterior (O.D.) threads
After spending many hours modeling this, you should think about marketing the item to recoup the time invested in modeling and producing the content. Not many DIY guys have a 3D printer. Just a suggestion.
Cheers!
A life saver for drowning tungstens 👍😂👍. Nice one James!
those cheap diamond coated dremel wheels are also nice for cutting or sharpening very hard materials .. i (mis) use them as pretty much cut-everything discs
James,
Another REALLY informative video. Great F360 tips too 👌
I bought one of these ‘adapt-to-a-Dremel’ grinding jigs ( on-line), but yours is a better design with the vacuum hose ( particularly as I use Thoriated 😱 tungstens).
Thanks heaps for the time and effort you put into your channel.
Regards
Robert
you can get some threaded brass ferrules that you can melt in with a soldering iron. That will take care of your threads.
Genius!!Cheers From Toronto Canada!!
That was seriously awesome!
Awesome work! Thanks for sharing!
Please send some freshly ground tungsten rods to Tony. I think we all need some TigWithToT content too.
It’s been a while since we’ve gotten anything from ToT, no? I hope all is well in that world…
@@DavidLindes @David Lindes if I remember correctly there's a comment that's explaining that there's some family related problems and he needs a break. I don't know what happened and I don't question for how long.
But a little poke to get him excited should not harm. 😜
I hope if Tony sees it (may be very low chances) that he'd get at least a little smile.
@@5Breaker a little smile or something to know he’s still alive and (hopefully, more or less) well would indeed be nice. Video content (while it would also be nice) can wait. :)
Dude, that is awesome. Thank you.
That was a good project James!
For 3D print support, dissolvable filaments are expensive, and for supporting trapped internal volumes there's no substitute, but if you are going dual material you can use an incompatible plastic (such as PLA + PRTG - either can be your part and the other used as support) as a cheap support material which wont strongly bond.
PVA is about 1.5 time the cost of PLA. I have this for my Ultimaker S3, unfortunately, PVA (in my opinion and experience) does not live up to the hype. The filament gets extremely brittle and breaks in the bowden tubes causing printing to stop or failures. It also takes hours to dissolve completely, even after breaking away most of the supports. Of course I'm sure there is someone that would say its me. Again, just my experiences after a year of trial and error.
@@VanTekConsulting I agree, I don't use the stuff (soluble supports) myself because of the hassle and because I design almost everything I print so I design for printability - and I've never delved into the fiber fill stuff either - but you absolutely need to keep any such material bone dry all the way to the print head. Frankly, I'd feed it to my printer directly out of a food dehydrator shielded by PTFE guiding it as close to the hot end as practical then never leave it sitting in the tube between prints. I'd treat nylon the same as it reaches saturation in about 18hr's if the spool is left out, I'm sure PVA is even faster. It could also be helpful to go oversized on the PTFE tube - maybe 3-4mm (assuming 1.75mm filament) to give it more room to "be stiff" and not break. Anyway, I don't think it's "just you" ;)
Who's on the edge of their seat waiting to see how James tightens the collet once the new fixture is attached and the cutting wheel is already in place?
It's all about order of operations.
Excellent work!
Exquisite job, James. Everything you make is very classy (as home made stuff goes) and well thought out, definitely many notches above average. Love watching your videos, and always learn a thing or two from them. Ciao, Marco.
Nice job James - the direction of rotation should go towards the operator though to avoid the tungsten being dragged it, just like you'd do on a bench grinder
thank you for taking the time this a very good video ! thank you
I had the same issues with supports until I changed the contact z distance and the xy separation. I use .25mm for contact z and 75% for xy separation. It makes a world of difference.
I'll give it a try. I really wish Simplify3D had an option to print dense support on the top, but leave it out for support built over a finished surface. Both of those are pretty easy to remove. I'll try increasing the Z separation. I was a little afraid of losing control of the inside dimension if I increased it over .1mm.
love the opening. Isn't that the truth. I make all kinds of tool of my own and it always cost more to make than buy but where's the fun on that :)
Thanks for sharing the design
Cool! Now combine it with small hand-held battery powered brushless car vacuum, something like "70mai Vacuum Cleaner
Swift" and you'll have small, highly portable and stand-alone solution for thungsten grinding.
You can make a 3d printed shim that goes on the shaft of the adapter that holdes the grinding disk that automatically has it at the right height. When you get a different height system, just change the Z height of the shim
Good idea.
Very Nicely done James I spend time to get my tungsten just right for my tig jobs.
Nice. Great job and fielding it into workability tool 👍
Hi James! You could design the inner upper half of the vacuum port with 45° "roof" surfaces instead of the steeper cirular overhangs to print that part without supports. Anyways, always looking forward to your videos!
I was going to make the same suggestion, but I'm 3 months too late. I hate using supports...
To get the height right You can also make sure the tool. Is flush with the rotor chuck
Nicely Done!
Nice project! I use 0.3 - 0.35 mm gap in PETG for custom supports separation. Not sure what is best for NylonX but a few test prints should give you the right gap that holds well enough to print but easy enough to remove. I hate generated supports as they waste too much print time and material, plus they can be very difficult to remove. You can build any design to print without generated supports by adding breakaway supports to the model only where they are needed.
you can optimize ! all the 4 angles to point somewhere else to the wheel ,
so you can use all the surface of the diamond wheel , not only the middle. ;)
( maybe just forcing the sticks against the brass center can do that job also )
sorry for my english
I'm with AWDjr just a cheep 6 inch grinder harbor freight with a 6 inch diamond plate wheel and a cheep drill. I can sharpen a dozen tips in just a couple minutes to exactly what work for job.
You should make a spacer for the collet of the rotary tool so it positions the grinding wheel at the perfect height. Then you wouldn't need to look through your hole to adjust it.
was thinking exact same thing :-)
"Lets spend more time and money then i would take to just buy one..."
This is the story of my life... But then I get that "pride" of having many unfinished projects and pride of ownership of the stuff you ended up buying anyway.
WINNER!!
Maybe add a tab on the outside to gauge the arbor length against, or install a pin into the sight hole instead (move up by radius). Maybe length from end of mounting tab to body of jig (or a boss on the side) is an easy location for a gauge.
i would arrange the different inserts in a way each touches another spot on the wheel so all of the surface of the wheel can be used.
Hi James I did enjoy the video I just printed this fitting off on my Ender 3 pro in PLA i sprinted perfectly thank you I don't know if it will be strong enough in Place but we will find out. I am knew at this and all but having a lot of fun thanks for the great content
I THINK THAT IS REALLY COOL. THANKS.
Milwaukee fills my tool box…yet if I can do something the way my grandfather did it..using spit and baling string..I try that first. The Drexel sharpener is perfectly adequate for the average welder that goes through 20-30 tips per year.
Nice work James.. See you next week...
I buy the cheap replacement 4" diamond wheels for the Harbor Freight Saw Blade Sharpener and mount them outboard of my bench grinder wheel using an aluminum spacer that I turned. I spin the tungstens in my cordless drill near the periphery of the wheel and quickly bring them to whatever point I desire.
For trimming tungstens, hold it on a flat metal surface with a sharp edge and rap the overhung portion with something (I use my MIG pliers) and the tungstens will cleanly snap at the sharp edge.
That's a good idea. I always forget that I can stack up multiple wheels on a grinder arbor. I also love the use of MIG pliers as a hammer. There's an old TFS video out there somewhere where the running joke is that every tool in a welder's toolbox is a hammer. :)
I actually can't use my MIG pliers for that anymore because I followed the hilarious example of another Tuber and my MIG pliers are now welded to a short chain which is in turn fastened to my welding cart, so that I always know where to look for them. Adam Savage wrote a book entitled "Every Tool's A Hammer".