Road bike chainrings, which ones?
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Let’s have a look at the usual chainring available combinations and how I selected them for each specific use.
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Let me know in the comments your preferred gearing combinations.
Thank you again for watching,
Federico
i live in the alps and have lots of long steep climbs (1h-1.5h climbs up to 34 percent gradiant) around me. i ride a 50/34 in the front and a 11-34 in the back on a very light bike and i would not change it ever. technically i could use more than a 50/11 on steep long downhills but i prefer to stay alive and conquer more epic climbs.
I completely understand, here it's just short punchy climbs, nothing that long.
clever; i would too
@@fede1275 without testing ive wondered which is quicker on a steep gradient ... 34/28 vs 36/30
@@stuartmclean3843 from the ratio calculations they should be almost the same, 1.21 and 1.20 ratio
I would like to ride the Ötztaler Radmarathon on my own, therefore I was looking for different gear combination. In the front I use now 50/34 and in the back 11/40. I hope this will be enough. It works very well 👍
I run 48/32 - 11/28 because I noticed that my chain line is dead straight at my comfort power output. I get to 30km/h and I can pedal with around 85-90 rpm :)
You have a nice verity for any occasion with your bike choices. My 52/36-11/34 is perfect 90% of the time over here for me I like to spin. There are a handful of super steep climbs I run out of gears and need to stand I'm right on that threshold but never had to zig zag or stop ever and some climbs I just want to spin a little faster. My ideal would be a 12 speed 52/36-11/36 cassette I would be set. Great video as always! Aloha 🤙
With wide-spread 12 speed cassettes you get such a big spectrum of gears that you can ditch one chairing if you stay in rolling terrain. One-by is a good choice for city bike or a cyclocross machine. There are even people who use a single speed setup for those use cases. Most of the time you get up to the same speed in those scenarios.
Yes, I guess that would be a really wide ranging set up for all the circumstances!
I live in the 2nd flattest State in the US, so I ride with a 53x39, and a 12-25. I changed to a 12-25 after retiring from racing at age 71, after 32 years. Before that, I'd use a 12-23, except for hilly road races, where I would use a wheel with a 12-25. I've never needed an 11, since I can spin the 12 to 40mph. (around 65kph) I've only done that on the flats, a few times, with a tailwind.
True classic gearing, well done
48-31 11-34 on road any day. I live in the mountains and I don't have a massive ego problem. Unlike many of the local seniors pushing their bike up anything over 15% because they have dumb ratios. Of course I could spin it out descending but I value my collarbone far more.
Of course in the mountains you have to go low. Here is hilly, but short punchy climbs at most, so I can use higher gears and feed my over-inflated ego!
Good video Fede, there's a big stigma attached to chainsets, particularly among club riders I've found. There seems to be an obsession for putting people down for using compacts and some riders feel the need to run a 53/39 or risk being branded a wimp! Me personally, I don't care! I wanted lower gearing for my rides this year around the North York Moors and the Peak District, so now I run a Praxis Alba 48/32 sub compact on my Bianchi which is similar to the gearing you would get on a gravel bike. My Campag Veloce 10sp cassette is 13/29 at it's lowest, so unless I go to the trouble of ripping the freehub off on two wheelsets or changing the entire groupset, it was easier to simply replace the chainset. I don't notice any drop in flat speed and I don't push hard on descents anymore following my crash last year, so spinning out isn't something I worry about. I'm just gutted I've got an American chainset on my otherwise complete Italian bike! It is what it is!
I'm sure your Bianchi understands 😄. I can see strong feelings on the subject, it should be just a choice for the best enjoyment of the bike.
Thank you! now I can choose the size I need with confidence!!
Now I'm on 54/40 and 11-34 with my rim brakes Canyon Aeroad
@@fede1275 I am still on stock 50/34 and 11-34. I think I'll upgrade the chainring to 52/36.
I own a Felt F Series Ultegra level race bike. My ten speed gearing is 50/34 x 11/28. The gearing is just fine for my fitness level and the rolling terrain of Northern California. If I get a new bike, I will stick with a compact chainset, but I may use 11/34 for the rear.
I went from a 52/36 and 11-30T to a 50/34 and 11-32T this year and my cycling has improved significantly. My average cadence has gone up from 86 to 93 and I feel way more confident smashing the climbs. I’d even consider going to an 11-34T.
Definitely it's down to cadence preference, I like a much lower one, when I ride my winter Ultimate with 50/34 and 11/32 it feels way too low geared.
@@fede1275 I tend to agree. I believe I’m a more efficient cyclist at a higher cadence, I just didn’t know it until now. Its also given me so much more confidence on the climbs to keep up with my buddies and even drop them occasionally.
I run a 50-34 and a 11-40 on my gravel wheelset. the 50-11 is nice as I can usually outrun the younger guys on the downhills. (yes the 40 works with a 7K 105 rear derailleur without issue.)
I'm new to bikes, could I ask what speed that 11-40 is?
@@Thatguy301 7000 105 is 11 speed in the rear. I run 7020, hydraulic brakes, mechanical shifter 11 speed
@@bindingcurve that's for the detailed response!
Great video 👍
For me 52/36 paired with 11-34 is perfect, especially with the Campagnolo 12v. Great range allows me to get up pretty much anything 👌
Thank you, that seems to be the favourite option for quite a few!
This is what is have in shimano Ultegra. Absolutely love it. Eventually I’ll be switching that over to camp super.
@@arianewell6252 mechanical Campagnolo is definitely the best shifting I’ve used!
Excellent explanation of the gearing combination.
I know of a triathlete who runs a 56 up from.. he spins out on the 53 too easily. (Makes me feel like a little girl)
Good to see another video. Ciao!
You are a great speaker! Thank You for sharing your knowledge. Aloha.
Thanks for listening!
Semi compact but change the 36 to 34 small ring is perfect for me. 52-34 front with 11-34 back can conquer all kinds of terrains.
Is that possible. I thought there had to be 14T difference between the two front rings?
@@DanTuber I have been riding that for years now, no issues whatsoever. Both Di2 and mechanical.
So 34 front with 34 rear would allow you to climb on walls ?
Did you actually ever used this combination ?
@@-First-Last I consider a 22% grade a wall so yes. Been using this combination for 4 years both Di2 and Mechanical
Which country are you? A lot of my friends are using that gear too.
54/40 and 11-30. Sunny and flat in south Florida. Keeping the chain line straighter and in larger cogs are more efficient.
That would be really fast!!
For me on the commuter it has to be the 50/34 makes everything so much easier but definitely bigger for the main road bike
Exactly!
Thanks! You gave my confusion an answer. I had the original chainring of dura ace which is 50/34. Aaaand I have put on my bike the 52/36 rotor oval chain ring and a cassette of 11-30 I found it kinda hard on 52/36 our group rides always do 2 to 3 climbs long and steep. 2nd climb my muscles are twitching (tired) and now I know the answer I'ma do just the 50/34. You are correct, as I am not also fast in descent I maxed as 60 most of the time 50 I let them go if they wait me down hill it's alright but if they don't I'll catch up in the flats or climbs. I work on uphill more like attacking going up chilling/resting going down. So thanks for the clear idea 50/34 indeed. ✌️
Great video. I ride relatively flat with some short steep hills. Starting to spin out on the 52/36 up front and going to a 53/39 sounds like the next move. Thank you
@@chrishendry6110 👍👍
Thank you Federico for making the video as per my request 😊. I was running 50/34 but upgraded to 52/36 which really is a great combination for flats and the downhills as well improving strength on the uphills. However I doubt I will stretch to a full standard chainset I will leave that to a semi pro such as yourself 😉
My pleasure! Definitely 52/36 with 11/30 seems a great combo for everything apart from the Alps.
do you stay use 52?36? what size cassette you have.
Great video. I run 52/36 with 11-34 but I struggle on 15% plus to stay upright due to very low cadence and low-ish power. As I prefer to spin will be trying out an 11-42. A lot of use over 60s going this route these days.
Or you might need a lighter bike, but it is not easy nowadays. 11-42 could work, so you still have the 52 for the flats.
@@fede1275 As someone once famously wrote : it’s not about the bike!😄. In my case it’s true - I have a Cervelo R5 Dura Ace with rim brakes on carbon wheels so pretty much done everything I can there. Sadly at 63 I just can’t generate the power I would like.but I do like the 52/36 chainrings more than full compact.
Try a 52 33 chainring combination, that is what I use all the time with no loss in shifting performance.
Those are gears for pro's that have 5-6 W/kg FTP. If you don't have that (and most of us are between 3-4 W/kg, many even lower) you will never ride with a comfortable cadence on a long steep climb or at the end of a long ride. Use a bike calculator to see the speeds for a given power on different gradients and calculate the corresponding cadence.
I have based my choice on the 52/36 with 11/30 on the Canyon, as for what I do (typical ride 100-120 Km and 1Km - 1.5Km elevation) it's perfect. For the aero bike I can then go higher gear and use for not that steep rides.
@@fede1275 If it's a rolling terrain then the total elevation doesn't tell the whole story. You may never be forced to slow down to walking/jogging speeds because the inertia pulls you up half the way on every hill. There may be many of them, but none are long enough for you to need these smaller gear ratios and you can power through them at powers more than your FTP. But you WILL ;) walk your Canyon with that gearing if you ever head to proper mountains or grind 40 rpm which is hardly pleasant even if you prefer lower cadences. Unless your FTP is around 5 watts per kg and in that case - you don't fit my assumptions :).
@@Al.2 I never measured my ftp and I haven't got the Alps trip planned yet. But I will go to Mallorca soon with the Canyon, this will be a test of the gearing and fitness on longer climbs.
@@fede1275 I've ridden several km long climbs with an average gradient (or at least long stretches) of 10% in the Tatra and Karkonosze mountains and in Norway, so to me this is the baseline for considering my lowest gear ratio. I know that a reasonable speed that I can expect to hold on such a climb lasting from 20 minutes to even an hour (at 90% FTP of 3.8 W/kg) is around 9-10 km/h and with a 36/30 gear ratio my cadence would be around 63 rpm. Granted some people may be fine with that but I'd rather have more margin and be closer to 75-80 rpm, and 34/36 put's me there, also I may not be fresh as a daisy to hold that effort level, I may face unfavourable winds, there can be double digit stretches, minor discomforts etc. But anyway, I hope you can see my point. I'm sure you'll be fine in Mallorca though and have a great time! :)
A 50-11 at 120 RPM sprinting cadence is ~66km/hr. I don't think many people need more than that. I would want a bigger chainring for racing crits just to keep the chain further up the block, but the largest ratio itself is plenty big. On my fastest road bike I actually run a 12sp SRAM setup with 48/35 and 10-30. 48-10 is basically the same ratio as 53-11.
you want higher than that for downhill
Most people have gears on their bikes which are too high for them. When you are not a racer why even reach 66 kph inthe flat or why pedal downhill? But you need a ridiculous small gear uphill if you are not fit and if you don't want to exhaust yourself and if you are carrying a heavy load. Some commuters have all three factors at once. They need a 26-32 or at the very least a 34-34.
@@maxsievers8251 True that's why most endurance bikes come with a 50-11, and those bikes are better suited for a beginner or casual cyclist. The bikes he is depicting here are for pros or for those with A LOT of time in the saddle.
If Geraint Thomas' lowest gear can be 36/32 and his FTP is 6 W/kg, then if your FTP is 3 W/kg, what lowest gear would be good for you? It's very simple - all of the road bikes are heavily overgeared for most amateurs.
I guess it is really down to personal preference, I don't spin that RPM and I prefer on the flat to have more pressure on the pedals, so on a performance bike I believe 50-11 a bit too low. But at the same time here near London we don't have very long climbs, so 36-30 is also okay. On the Velobuild 39-30 can also work for its use. It would be different for very long climbs.
Great video! I've tried all 3 of these, I had a 50/34 compact on my previous endurance road bike which felt great but see what you mean about spinning out! My aero bike came with a 52/36 which I really like, good balance on the hills too as stuck with my 32-11 which gets me up the local steep climb. My TT bike is running a 53/39 and a 12-25 which is what was fitted when I bought it, is great on the flat, but hills are really tough so do my best to avoid them at all costs! I should really re-think that cassette at some point. As an FYI your title screen shows a typo of 54/30, that would be an awesome combo if it didn't result in dropped chains 😆
Thank you, really as you mentioned it's about finding the right balance that works for us. Also thanks for the heads up, I amended the thumbnail!
Would you please do a long-term review of your velobuild? Keep it up!!!
Yes, it's in the list!
Wish I was allowed three bikes, jealous
I can only do it with 3 relatively inexpensive bikes...
Very informative, thank you
In order to compare any bikes, the concept of gear ratio is used. In addition to the number of teeth on the chainring and cassette, one needed the tire diameter.If you live in a hilly area, anything higher than 20 gear inches is pain in the a$$. GRX group set or one for mountain bike works well, but those are different bikes altigether.
When I built my bike 1 year ago i bought what was available (53/39 standard crankset and 11/28 cassette) but will in the future go for a 52/36 and 11/30 so I can still stay with the short derailleur and have some more room for climbs ....
Or do some insane training volume and hope I reach enough W/kg for it not to matter hahaha
Yes, I believe 39 and 28 would be definitely hard work on serious climbs!
56/44 + Classified is the way to go!
* I commented before watching this video 😂
Hahah, bit extreme I guess!
I use 52/34, because my 11sp etap only allows a max 28 teeth cassette. It works
50/39/30 triple job done. 😊❤
But 50 is too low on the straight!
I'm thinking of upgrading my single chainring for my hybrid Dual Sport 4 with a 50-40 that way there i can keep the 51-11 on the back or I may change that too and keep the 51-11 for a really hilly area.
I've got a DA 9100 set up with a 52/34 and love it, yes you can do it, with a 11-30. when I'm in europe with climbs and long sections of flat/down I love the 52. I race so I need the range, get spun out in groups with a 50 on flats
Nice bikes!
😄👍
on my road bike I have 50/34 with 11-36 (custom made cassette), that gives me the ability for decent cadence even at steep climbs and in the biggest gear I can pedal comfortably at 60 kph - I very rarely find that not enough... on the TT bike I have 53/39 and 11-30 because I don't ride big mountain passes with it and it's better to have a straight chain line at 45-50 kph and if there is a downhill (where you are faster than with the road bike due to better aerodynamics) I can pedal at at least 65 kph. Very happy with those, and unless I make huge gains in power 😎 I feel no need to change anything
With my cadence sometime I wish I had 54-11, I could not live with 50-11. Problem is I can climb max on 36-30, I would need to change cassette with a bigger inner ring
@@fede1275 interesting! Of course it depends on the rider, how much power and the cadence we ride with
@@fiddleronthebike yes, I need to feel a strong resistance and push through the pedal motion. I'm also happy with my 175mm cranks, against the trend
@@fede1275 I even use 180 mm cranks on all of my bikes (have long legs, 90 cm inseam)! Feels much more comfortable and natural for me than shorter ones; every time I try shorter cranks I don’t like them
Very cool vidéo! For 10 years i am using 50/34 on a 11/30 cassettes and some times 11/28 cassette. This year i bought an new frame an ELVES VANYAR an Light bike then my giant TCR advanced 2. 2019. I love this bike but i wanted to try something else! For the ELVES VANYAR go cheked out! (rim brake version) i Just love rim brake!🙋🏼♂️ i Will try with this new bike 52/36 on a 11/30 cassettes i think i Will loves the ratio Will see!!!
Semi compact with 11-30 should be great on the Elves. I looking at them when I bought the Velobuild, they seem really nice. I saw videos on the Falath, very nice.
It seems like you need yet another bike with a triple chainring to conquer the Alps. I find that you need a gear ratio lower than 1 - meaning that one revolution of the crank results in less than a revolution of the wheels. Do you have a bike stored at your parents home?
That would be nice, but I will risk a divorce!! I have never cycled in the Alps, definitely it seems that 36-30 like I have on the Canyon might be still a bit too high.
i have 52/36 and 10/36 12speed and it's perfect for speed and hill!!!
when i'am at 52/13 at 90rpm on 28mm tire i produce 320watts for 46km/h!!
1:00 The subtitle for the gearing is the wrong way round. At the back, the bigger the sprocket the lower the gear. The smallest sprocket gives the highest gear ratio.
Absolutely 😖
50/34 11/30 on vacation in Europe.
Still feel it's a bit low geared
@@fede1275won't you mind to explain more coach? 🙏
when I am on my Ultimate with 50/34 I feel I get on the 11 and I still feel I want a harder gear. It's just how I use to grind more than spin. It's personal preference, but I would ride at least 52/36 and still can climb well with 30 or 32 at the back.
@@fede1275 I understood!
54 years old, 50/34 and 11/28, lots of steep but relatively short hills.
Don't you find it too low on the flats?
11/25 was a problem on the flats. 11/28 solved it.
@@jazzcatjohn
Hi, great video! Thanks. So the recommended is 52/36 crank, for the cogs, do u think 11-34t can be compatible to a 52/36 too? Options is 11-28t or 11-34t. Beginner to Intermediate rider here. Is 11-34t cogs also ok with 52/36? Thanks
The choice is really down to your favourite cadence and power. I like to grind and I want a high gear in the flats, so I went with a 53 big ring. On the Canyon I now have a 36 inner ring to also be able to climb, together with the 11-30 cassette. 53/36 is not recommended, but it works. 52/36 with 11-34 seems a good combination, just check your rear derailleur and chain can work with it
39/53 with a 12-28 9 speed in the back for me, please. 172.5 crank arms would round this out nicely.
I can add a consideration? You must have very good legs I think to spin 53 - 11 maybe at 80 rpm also 52 - 11 to be faster. Usually (normal cyclist) have 11 - 12- 13 unused excluded the descent or if they stay on the wheel 🙂and spin 52 -14 or 52 - 15 /16/17 for average cyclists compact is common for climb and flat both. Spin hard for long time may intoxicate your muscles very soon if you're not trained. Ciao
Yes, but I believe it also depends if you prefer grinding or spinning. I always performed better at powerful sports and I think I have more fast twitch muscle fibres. So to me it comes more natural a lower and more powerful cadence.
My Canyon Endurace came with a sub-compact set. I've wondered what it would feel like to have a full compact set but have never tried it. The cost would be more than just new cassette and chainrings. I would also need to replace my rear Di2 derailleur to accommodate the new cassette. Not worth the money I think.
I'm not that familiar with the Endurace spec, are you sure it didn't come with a medium cage rear derailleur? In that case I believe you could get new chainrings and a new chain. It depends if you feel you are spinning your highest gear or not. Make sure you can still climb on your lowest gear as well.
@@fede1275 it's is an Ultegra 8100 group set 52/36 and 11/30.
The derailleur is the short one but I wonder if I could use one of those extenders?
BTW, my bike is 5 years old. I believe the new Endurace bikes are coming with compact group sets.
@@chrisyoung8062 sorry, I misunderstood. I used to have the same gearing on my Ultimate, semi compact 52/36 and 11-30. I changed the outer ring to 53, so I have the 53/36 and 11-30. Same climbing and more speed on the flat. I believe 50/34 is too low geared.
44/34 on my Sora, im too weak for bigger chainrings.
I have a 46/30 11-36
I'm more concerned with climbing easier rather than speed, although speed is nice, but i have to compromise
I recently change the cassete from 11-30 to 11-28 . I see i go faster on uphills. Now i test a front chainring 39 (from 36) It is faster everywhere .
Wow, hard gears!
@@fede1275 It has better pace . Also you earn extra time - more meters before fatigue comes on uphill. I try small uphills around my town with max grade 28% , all was faster with not max effort and close to my PRs. For sure you have to change your pedalling technique . When i use 39-28 and run out of power i will go upright . Now i have to test on 100km rides. I cant wait hehe.
Why limit yourself to standard chanring combinations? I run 52-33 with 11-34 on my bike very happily. And, I set up my wife's bike with 50-33 and 11-36 with standard ultegra derailleur R8150. You need to check the derailleur capacity as well. I have used oversized pulley wheels (from China) in the past to increase capacity and will eventually do this to enable use of 11-36 on my bike with the 52-33 chainrings. To find out what is useful to you, ride up your steepest desired ascent and gear down until you can go up as you want to. Then go down as fast as you want to pedal and gear up until you don't spin out. I use all my gears frequently, and cannot accept the limited standard specifications.
Yes, I am currently running 53/36 on my Canyon, and it works nicely on 105 mechanical with an 11-30 cassette. I like the big 53 ring and I can climb with 36-30. Just outside Shimano parameters.
Compact 50/36 is best. Is so rare to find road to use 53 39 and be in comfortable cadence. This is why I have duraace 53/39 crankset in my shed.
Might be a vintage item soon!
53/39 11/23 in the Netherlands. Flat and a lot of wind.
I had Specialized Allez with triple and moved to Roubaix with 50-34 /11-32 and bike feels slower. Debating it should switch to 52-36. Does it make sense? I'm in Boston, we have some hills but it's mostly rolling hills. Riding for a weight loss mostly. Thanks
If you don't go for steep hills I would prefer 52 36, especially if you like to push higher gears and don't have a high cadence. I now prefer 53 and 36, not a recommended combo, but it works
@@fede1275 Thank you!
Hi everyone, Need some advice, My nine year old son is participating in the Pucon, Chile Kidz challenge. He has a Merida scultura 4000 xs. What would you recommend for a fixed gears so not to confuse him. max 5.3m pedal rotation. Thanks
Unfortunately not sure about that really
52-42 x 28-14 and I love it. The 42 at the front covers all needs riding in the park, I go to 52 for faster speeds.
42 with 28 would be hard on steep hill surely?
My bike for the flats: 39/50 @ 12-30
Bike for climbs: 34/50 @ 11-34
I still believe 50 is too low for the flats, I really like 53
Hey, I have a 9 speed 50/34 with 11-32T. I've been debating to change to 11-30t for a 1.21 ratio, would that make any difference?
@@eldiabl0953 I would do it as I climb with a 36 and 30 at the cassette, so I could well manage the 34 with 30. But it depends on you, if you need the lower 34 with the 32 for the hills then don't do it.
What is the 1991 look alike McLaren bicke make and model please and where can I get it
@@Ohmm886 this was a paint scheme I asked Velobuild to do on their VB-R-068 bike. This was a 58 frame and I eventually retired it. I also got a silver one in size 56, but this was stolen last month.
53-39 ❤️
I just realised climbing with 39 and 30 it's hard 😅
I have 53 36 on the Canyon, the best combo imo
I prefer 52 x 36 and 11x29
I ride 52/34 on front. Yes Shimano don't advocate this. In 5,000 miles of riding hilly and flat terrain, I've not dropped a chain yet. A good mechanic can get the shifts (almost) as smooth as a 50/34 or 52/36.
Yes, I also know someone that tried it and it worked. Maybe I could kit up the Canyon like that and still climb well.
Exactly what I did with my Canyon. And for just £20 for the 34t inner ring.
what range cassette do you have?
@@DanTuber 52-36 at the front with 11-30 cassette
@@fede1275 i was asking alex. lol.
What can you recommend for semi compact 52/36 crank arm lenght im 5,9 height.
172.5
Or 172
This is an interesting subject and not easy to advise on. I have 175mm cranks and I am a grinder, between 6 and 6.1 height and I like them. By accident I tried 165mm as a temporary replacement and I could not stand them. But some love shorter cranks. Might also depend on leg lenght and position. To me is one of the last thing I would change, after making sure cleats, saddle height, fore and aft are all spot on.
hey there can we use the combination of 56 34t is it compatible with the derailleur
Good question, I am not sure
I'm starting to wish I had a compact. Who cares about spinning downhill as you're probably going too fast anyways. Going uphill is where the pain is. On flats anything above 32kph is already fast and a compact is more than enough.
Yes, but I like the pressure on the pedals on the flat as well. For me it's to be able to climb and also go fast on rolling terrain.
👍
What shoes are you wearing?
@@lostbutnotalone.8222 Shimano RC7 with a toe cover
How about 51-42 front with 25-11 rear ?
51 with the 11 would be too low geared for me, 42 and 25 too high for the hills.
11-51t cassette with 53-39t crank on road bike?
Seems a bit extreme to me??
Ride what ever is comfortable for you! Don't worry about everyone else. And while I'm at it, WTF is up with these crazy bike prices. I hope these bike companies fall on their faces. Just build normal bikes for normal people with normal prices. That's all.
Top speed on 52 will only be 2 kph more than 50. So no need to go 52.
Amateurs with standard chainrings either live somewhere very flat or have ego issues. Even the local UCI continental pros have no shame training on compact with 11-32
I need that 2 kph and yes, I have ego issues!
44x28
Allright Baldi.
ratio 50-11 or 10 is over 60 km per hour. it really does not matter for us mortals. big rings are for big egos. rest is fantasy
I got a big ego 😄, but having tried them all I can say there is a place for each ratio. It really depends on your favourite cadence and how much pressure you want to feel on the pedals.
For generally flat terrain, 51-42 front with 11-23 (25) will serve you well. 42-17,18,19 for rolling along and 51-11 for riding in draft. What do you think ?
@@-First-Last I'm not sure, for flatter routes I'm loving the 53/39, with 11/30 I didn't have to go in the 39 at all. For an all around route 52/36 and 11/30 is great, it was perfect for Mallorca as well
54-40T xD
I'm thinking about that, might need to get a bigger cassette than 11-30
Good choice, I have 52-36 ultegra di2 R12 and I will change to 54-40T 🔥 with cassette 11-30 the biggest for R12
@@MM19201910did you already change to the 54-40 with the 11-30 and if so, how’s your experience with it so far compared to the 52-36? Do you feel more efficient and can reach a higher speed with the same effort?
Hi @@Marco-ob1go not yet, but I thinking about it and my colleagues used 58T for TT. It is not possible for the same effort. Probably I will be faster when I increase more power in this winter and I will be ready for 54T+. Depending on the competition, in some hilly routes bikeTT is faster, in descent roads 52T is not efficient so I looking for small changes for new season 2025 in triathlon. Firstly training and progress, secondly changes in my bikeTT with new FTP. 3 years ago when I changed from 50-34 to 52-36 that was game changer.
@@MM19201910 okay that’s good to know, thanks for your explanation! I’m in this game for only half a year now, got plenty of power in my legs due to weightlifting for a couple of years, build up a new S Works Tarmac SL8 last week with a 52/36 with 11/30 cassette, but still questioning since I’m really a perfectionist if the setup will be the most efficient for me or if a 54/40 will be even better and can let me achieve a bit higher speed for the same amount of effort due to the bit more ‘leverage’ you’ll have. I live in the Netherlands and ride mostly on flat roads with some dikes, but it’s also always windy.
Io ho un 52-36 e 11-32 e mi trovo benissimo
Canyon la migliore
Si, veramente la bici piu' completa e performante a quel prezzo.