HOW TO MOVE A RADIATOR - Step by Step Guide - DIY
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- Опубликовано: 25 дек 2018
- DIY guide how to move a rad from one wall to another, Including draining the central heating system down, Lifting floor boards and all the pipework. Moving a Radiator. Radiator Installation, How to drain a heating system. fit Radiator. Today we'll show you how to move a radiator. So we've got a radiator on the wall here and we've got the bed. So the radiator is in the way of where we want to put the bed. So we'll move this radiator and put it on the wall over there. So I'm going to drain the system down and I'm going to cut the boards up. And I'm going to show you different options. So different options of cutting boards up. Different pipe work. So it may be that you want to use plastic pipe. It may be you want to use copper. So I'm just going to show you some different options with that, as well.
So yeah, so first of all I'm going to drain the Central heating system down and I'm going to move all this bed and stuff out of here. So I'll do that now.
So I've got the radiator on this wall, and we wanted to move on it onto this wall here and then that's the door coming into the room. So as we can see with floorboards, the floorboards go this way. So the pipes, these pipes, this is going to come this way. I would have thought same with this one here. We can see some of the boards have already been disturbed before. See, they're all smashed, so we'll take some of them boards up.
We've got to look on this side as well. We can see there's a cut there, so we know that's been taken up before as well. And then again, there's a cut there. So we'll lift these boards up now. So when possible, we'll always lift the boards that's been lifted before because they're already slightly damaged, all cut, and they're just easier to lift up. But I'm gonna cut some of this floor in a different place, just to show you different options, as well, on cutting it, because it may be that your boards haven't been up before. But first of all, just lift this so at least I've flat bolster. And I've just got my hammer and then I've got a screwdriver. I try not to use a screwdriver if possible, because they tend to snap the boards, but if you used your big flat one, it just makes it a bit easier.
And you just want to be really gentle as you're lifting. Stop trying to snap it up because you'll snap the board, but if you're careful, you can lift them up without damaging them. Have a look here now. I'll just show you.
So I can see that the pipes have been been put in. They go this way. And then one thing I would say is always be very wary regarding safety. Never leave boards with nails in like this. So I always take these nails out. It's very easy for customers, for the kids, or somebody to walk in, or even yourself, and stand on one of these nails, and you don't want that to happen.
So we've got quite a few different options we can use for cutting the boards, to start with. So we could use a jigsaw. Put it in, like that, and cut it like that. I definitely wouldn't recommend that. But as a last resort, sometimes. Circular saw. So it may be you've just got a circular saw, and if you've got a circular saw, one thing I'll say to you is make sure your depth is correct. So adjust your depth to the thickness of the board and then if you cut through and if there was any wires or any pipes or anything close to the joists, then you won't cut through the joist. So that's if you're going to use a circular saw.
I've used a circular saw for many years, and it's only recently that I've moved on to using the fein This is brilliant. The good thing with fein is that it's a neat cut. So you're only cutting where you need to cut. But with that, you do need to be careful not to cut down too much. So as you feel it cut through, then obviously stop, because if you there's aught underneath, you don't want to be cutting into it anyways, underneath. So just be careful if you're going to use a fein.
So you have different options of cutting the boards up. So just to follow draining this down, I'm going to see which one the flow and return is. So my belief is we try and put the TRV on the floor, if possible. So I'm just going to turn the heating on and then we'll see which one gets warm first, on these little tails here. So I've just put my nest . So I've just put heating on there now. So that should come on.
So what you'll find is when you buy TRVs, and sometimes it goes both ways, which means that the manufacturer will say you can put them on the floor all the way turn, which is okay if you're doing swaps. Then fine, but if I'm going to fit a new radiator in here now, I'm gonna prep that wall there. It's easy for me to find out which the flow and return .
Central Heating radiator replacement , Draining down the central heating system. DIY guide , For homeowners and new gas engineers / plumbers doing fast trace training. 
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How to install a radiator ruclips.net/video/mPkPA_o9pX0/видео.html
@Steve W give over your not God's like you think you are , what's the problem with a diy er working on the wet side of an heating system I'm sure your not gonna be put out of business like I'm not by someone doing some brickwork. .
@Steve W I've been in the building trade 33 years as a bricklayer by trade and also cover a multitude of building work I've actually fitted a rad today for family , as a bricky i also enjoy bricklaying videos as i always say your never to old to learn its not downgrading the trade by people having a go cos at the end of the day a good tradesman will never be out of work .
@Steve W Same to you pal great discussion anyway..
This is what you call a step by step guide. You've explain everything in detailed. Thumbs up
Awesome, I also need to move a radiator about 300mm and you've answered 99% of all my questions. Brilliant job.
Thanks Allen, that was really helpful. Love the way you explain the options regarding different types of fittings fittings as well,
Great video Allen you explained everything in detail and didn’t complicate things.
Great video! You explain everything so well. Love the level of detail. Thank you very much.
Hi Alan, great job, It opened me eyes, I'm nvq qualified plumber, just start doing plumbing job from little thinks. Im based in Rotherham, it would've been brilliant if we were close so I could go couple hours with you daily watching and helping you while I'm learning alot from you.
Cheers lad, nice to see another leeds guy on RUclips! Given me the confidence to change a small rad in my house to a vertical one!
You've no boots on, watch those gripper rods! Nice video Allen
Awesome video Allen, loving the press fit, quick and easy. Maybe put some amazon affiliate links in video description for tools you use. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thank you.
Very good explanation 👏 much more educational I've done level 2 diploma in plumbing but there's soo many things got to learn thanks
I enjoyed watching you work. Great video!
Excellent tutorial video. Thanks very much Allen. I'm subscribed.
Love your vids Alan. I'm just about to start retraining from hgv to plumbing at 42 year old, these a videos really help. Thanks mate.
Best of luck!
How’s the plumbing going mate?
i was hooked from start to finish mate !!
Thank you for taking the time to watch my video.
I am new to the plumbing and gas maintenance installation and your videos are a big help thanks
Thank you for taking the time to watch my video.
Great information Allen as usual. As you are listened too it would be good practice to remind people not to leave all the building muck under the floor. As a DIY er, I take a lot of pride in my work.
Excellent video Allen. You explain it at a nice steady pace for those of us who are new to plumbing. I love the care you take in ensuring everything is done to a high standard and leave no room for doubt. I like the copper press fittings and the specialist tool u used. They do seem a great option for the DIYer. Would you say they are a better option for those new to plumbing as soldering can be tricky?
Good video and well explained - plumbing apprentice
Brilliant video so much details love the work keep it up mate 👍
Once again top notch. Keep it up Allen.
Thank you for watching.
Great video, making it so easy to try and do the job ourselves, one thing that did impress me was removing the nails from the floor boards, true professional, the only thing that annoys me these days is the noise from the cordless drills, but still a great video, thankyou.
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Nice job Alan you make it look so easy mate thanks for showing detail
Thank you for taking the time to watch my video.
Really good video, ive never actually seen press fittings used before.
Thank you.
Lots of good nuggets in this thanks :)
Great video very informative keep up the great work
Great video, very helpful
Thank you. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video 👍👍
I always try to use screws when fitting the board back, makes it loads easier for the next tradesman.
Same here. Quieter too!
Very helpful video
Thanks! This is one of the best DIY vids I've ever seen. Can I make a recommendation? I grew up in Leeds... and I thought I recognised your accent from the start. If you want a laugh, please watch this with the subtitles on. To say RUclips struggles with a genuine Leeds accent is putting it mildly! I was chuckling all the way through. Concerning the video, I was wondering whether moving a rad was really something someone like me can do... and until you reconnected the pipes I was thinking "yeah, but what about the pipes, what about the pipes"? But that press fit technology is ACE. The most concerning thing for a DIYer, I think, is to get everything absolutely TIGHT. Because once those boards go back on ... and then flooring ... and then the winter comes along, the last thing you want is a leak between floors, the heating pressure dropping to zero, etc.: that way misery lies.
Very informative 👍
very informative video for the diy er once again some good tips thanks
Thanks for the video its Been a real help as I'm about to replace 3 upstairs radiators and valves for new ones 👍
Glad it helped
@@AllenHart999 job done, no leaks, olives took some getting off and I ended up having to cut the ends of the pipes off as they were so bent. But got there in the end. Once again thanks for the great advice 👍
Another good one Alan thanks again
Thank you Kelvin.
excellent video
Thanks for showing us what to do. Gonna try it in my house now. I'm about to lose my plumbing virginity😁
Bloody good show.....speed fit all day long for the average D.I.Y person should be a leek free job
Another great video mate😁👍
Thank You for watching.
Great Video Allen
Really good video. Clear instructions in a real scenario of moving a rad. Do you rate the Hilti gear?....... subscribed.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. If drilling holes in concrete between floors, moving the radiator and preparing for bigger in the future (dimentions unknown) what would you recommend? Drill wider holes in concrete or use same for existing rad and use piping work at a later stage to fit the bigger unit? Thank you.
Been using an oscillating tool for many years now for floorboards. No need to buy a Fein, eventhough they started the technology. The Worx models work superb. Even the Aldi ones do.
I noted the last tradesmen's rubbish nicely thrown under the floorboards! Nothing changes.
Thanks dude saved me 150 qwid
Great stuff mate
Fantastic video.
Good content and some solid advice -thanks buddy!
Any time!
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Great video; thanks Alan. I am swapping a bathroom radiator for heated towel rail and your vid has helped me to plan. Is it necessary to drain the whole system? I was thinking of using a freezing kit to avoid draining down.
Great vid Allan thanks couple of questions.
Advice on hanging on a stud wall?
Also does the push fit type work from copper to plastic?
I presume like you you need a special tool for press fittings?
Finally I presume if you are changing the type of rad you just alter piper work to suit the new rad ?
Great video
I think with bi directional valves it matters if on flow or return, but I’ll always try to make sure the trv isn’t close to a corner or something like a tv unit, so it doesn’t sense the temperature too soon.
Do not use a permanent marker pen always use a pencil. Great video and easy to follow
Great video really loved it , full of good tips and information, only one bad thing I picked up was at 30.17 you had the electric wire running on top of the water pipe, I would say not a good thing as can heat up and melt the wire over time, simple tuck under the pipe be miles better. But apart from that 👍👍
Allen totally agree with you on checking your flow pipe as some bi directional trv's still clatter like bejingo if water flow is high passing through in reverse direction also where can we get the extra big rad vent key ? It looks as if it would be luxury on the ole finger tips
I will find out the details for the key vent and add it in my next video. Thanks.
love the subtitles …...had me laughing so much....anyone, please go back n watch this vid again ..the subtitles cant understand the plumbers accent..haha
You need to select Yo'kshire auto-generated.
What's the reason for not using compression fittings under the floor if they are leak tested .I would expect them to last longer than a rubber o ring which could deteriorate over time and fail Just wondering thanks good videos keep up the hard work 👍
Unusual , original position for the rad, . normally would"ve been under window or by door , good vid. :)
Thanks 👍
Best position for a rad is under a window as the re-circulation of heat is most efficient and the TRV will take the coldest reading too. In smaller rooms where furniture positioning is limited, sometimes you have to compromise.
Doesnt matter quite as much these days with double glazing etc but its still best practice imo to fit them under the window.
Allen can you press a m-press fitting on to speed fit pipe with the insert in thanks
I wouldn't use compression fittings under a floor ether, only use them if it's readily accessible in the future.
We cannot use compression for gas under floors so I wouldn’t use them for water either, unless I was desperate, 👍
hiya Allen love your videos, how much would this cost for a plumber to do I need this doing asap. Yorkshire prices though I'm in huddersfield ;)
Them press fit fittings look the business.
Makes life easy and its still a great job. Thanks.
Hiya mate can you help. Im planning on moving a radiator I'm fine taking 1 off for decor, my main concern is. How do you stop water flowing through the rad pipes for cutting.
After fitting a new radiator can the thermostatic valve be place on either of the bottom connections as mine is on the left bottom connection , I tried putting pressure in boiler as no water was entering new radiator but it wouldnt let me
Thanks for video,, great info,, one question please.. What did or do you use on rad valves at joints,, paste or tape ??
+Anthony Kenny I don’t use tape at all.
Great video Allen. The tool that you use for the press-fit connectors is expensive so what alternative fitting would you recommend instead? Also, where did you buy your saw from that you used to cut the floor boards?
Old comment but replying anyway for future readers: you could use compression fittings instead if renting a press tool or soldering isn't an option. Make sure to tighten them the right amount: three quarters to a full turn after snug. It's better to do three quarters and snug up a bit if it leaks than to overtighten and ruin the olive and pipe-end.
Legend
Hi Allen, I want to permanently remove a radiator but the thermostatic valve doesn’t go to a ‘0’ position, only a frost setting. Can I still do this and would I be able to leave the legs in situ incase I want to put the rad back on at a later date?
Also, how can I cap the legs off?
Cheers, Paul
Very good I wish work with u sir
Do you trust that loctite? I’ve never used it would like to try it just little worried as always used ptfe and paste
Never had a joint leak, Its very good in my opinion.
If you use plastic fittings or pipe you lose your earth bond (CPC) so you should youse clamp and 10mm² wire to make safe. There are also grey plastic pushfit that can't be removed anymore. And there are metal pushfit fittings for copper pipe that would still guarantee earth continuity I believe. Can you confirm if it's right?
Can you use plastic push fits onto copper pipes. I've tried solder joints but I'm not very good at it or confident I don't want it to leak. I've moved rads before with my dad. But he's not around anymore to do the solder joints😟
Also I need to drain the system have you a video for that. Love the full explanation btw
You can push fit onto copper
I always leave the valves on the rad and turn the valve off as you never know what's still left it the rad when removing and moving about with it
good man Alan great video
Thanks
I've had to rehang loads of rads that have fallen off the wall due to previous plumber only using 1" screws and not even knocking plug passed the plaster.
Feel your pain, done a few over the years
I've recently replaced all my radiators. a 600 x 1600 22 Rad weighs quite a bit empty - let alone filled with water. Used 60mm m6 coach bolts into 10mm x60mm wall plugs. Those rad brackets aren't coming off on their own.
I have a question and this may sound stupid but when you hung the rad you used wall plugs what’s behind the wall to give you a fixing? Surly if it is ply wood then wall plugs aren’t necessary?
You wouldn’t need plugs with timber, Happy New Year.
Say i want to remove a radiator, do I need to connect the supply and return lines to each other or can i just capped them? Thanks
Cut them as far back to their tees as you can and cap them will be fine
Hi Allen , never used loctight before I’ve always used PTFE. Have you ever had it fail or is it reliable enough?
I love it and have never had a joint fail,
What if you don’t have floor boards and have Tiles will they need to be ripped up ? Thank you
Depends on your requirements. You wouldn’t need to remove a floors just to remove a rad for decorating though.
How do you clean the red markings you put on the wall?
I don't. The bracket covers them. Thanks. 👍
Nice strong looking bleed key, where did you get it?
I will try and find the details 👍
Nice one Al 👍
Noticed that too , look much sturdier than the usual cheapies :)
Hi Alan, when I turn on my hot water on 8 year old Baxi Platinum 40 HE, once the water temp gets up to 92 C the burners cut off, one the temp drops to around 70C the burners start up again , it does this all the time when the hot water tap is turned on , any suggestion please.
Thanks in advance
P.S Central Heating works fine.
Maybe the plate needs replacing? Thanks.
@@AllenHart999 Thanks you absolutely correct, your knowledge is great.
How would you put radiator on a dot and dab plasterboard wall. Looks like a solid wall Allen is drilling.
Use plaster board fixings. I will try and add them into my next video
@@AllenHart999 that would be good Allen.
I normally use something like this. www.toolstation.com/fischer-radiator-fixing-set/p88335?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsJfhBRCaARIsAO68ZM5NjjwPniHxKvnCY481iGBjYecl-Jz_5d09f4gMfrmZ78PvEOdxgFEaAoPQEALw_wcB
Corefix are great for dot and dab!
Allen where can i get your rad key from
I will try and find the details and add them, Thanks 👍
I wonder how much it cost to move the radiator UK?
i hate to say this but a lot off plumber they like to stick to soldering for some reason good installation enjoyed the video happy new year.
I have soldered for nearly 30 years and i do not miss the fumes one bit. Thanks for watching.
Regards the floor boards, use the Bart Simpson defense : "It was like that when I got there man"
"Each to their own" - prefer Polyplumb myself :)
I don’t think there is anything in the top brands tbh 👍
Fitted loads of Polypipe. Not by choice, haven’t had many issues that’s over 150 houses. Polymax however, avoid at all costs.
The trouble with the multi tool is that the blades don't seem to last very long, they are handy in some situations though
You make a great point about the blades. Thanks
Even the bosch blades dont last too long , great machines though , use a bosch 40-30 myself :)
The multi tool is like an expensive mistress. You keep going back even though it costs ya. Fortunately, my wife takes care of taking away all of my hard earned dosh and then spends it on frivolous things. So I can't afford a mistress. Lack of time and energy deficiency does that ter ya! I'd love to go over to battery op'd tools too. Maybe one day?
Ha Ha , Happy new year
You too, Allen. "Been married fer 12 years. Ya only get seven fer manslaughter!" (Les Dawson)
Does it happen to you that you fit your bracket perfectly level and then the rad is not perfectly level? If yes, would you adjust 1 bracket to suit or not?
Don't trvs read the room temperature then decide weather to let the water through, so wouldn't matter if installed on the flow or return.
I'm going to all a really stupid question now, sorry in advance. When you empty the radiator of water, where does it go? I was under the impression that the radiator circuit is a closed system.
It's drained out via the drain point. Which is usually at the lowest point ( downstairs/outside) Sometimes on individual rads.
Thank you @@rayc1503
So how do you refill the systemafter it has been emptied? Are the circuits connected to the mains anywhere? Or do you need to jerrry rig a connection into to refill? sorry for the endless n00b questions.
@@Adrianyoutubing Hi it depends on if you have a combi boiler or direct indirect boiler. If it's a combi. A temp or rigid filling loop should be direct cold water inlet to the return pipe on the boiler. If you have a separate copper tank. Then it's a different in the way you drain and refill the system. Make sure you top up with inhibitor too.
Thank you for your responces @@rayc1503 To put everyone else at ease, I am not considereing doing any work on my house. Id get a pro in for that. Just interested. FYI my house
has a combi.
@@Adrianyoutubing You're welcome. It's not difficult. You're allowed to carry out work on the wet side of the central heating. As long as you don't remove the boiler casing or alter the gas pipes. You're good to go. Watch a few tutorials on youtube. If you're befuddled then sure, call in a plumber.
Best of luck
the flawbaawds
Thank You
Any reason why you using the old pipework, why not just pull a bend or make a new bit.
If i am honest i didnt want to walk to van to get some pipe lol,,,, No reason not to reuse it though. Thanks.
Don't know if you have noticed this Alan but if you turn on captions on your video it subtitles your intro to "my name's on hat and today" 🙈🤣🤣
i do not know how to turn them on lol..
HA ha ha ha .. just looked now, never even knew you could do that thanks.
@@AllenHart999 I didn't know you could do captions but for some reason the video started with them on!
@@stevewhitehead7318 Its a new one on me. 😂
Good video for diy to learn. But not not good practice to leave short dead legs.
The dead leg was very small, TBH i just wanted to get it finished as it took all day. Thanks for watching.
Hi Allen and viewers I have had a few comments back regarding the dead leg comment I made, I am not being "picky" the reason I commented was just to pass on my experience of this situation. If you understand the science it will make sense. The perfect example is when the flexible pipe leading to most expansion vessels in combi boilers block up it is due to the air that is trapped in the flexible pipe and the chemical reaction with all the debris in the water.
I love all feedback, We can always improve. Thanks for commenting.
OMG that's a small bedroom, would a fan heater be enough........???
I will hopefully convert loft at some point. Thanks.
We’ll explained
Bit off topic but Albert Einstein,when asked what he would have been if not a physicist,replied a plumber as they don’t take their work home with them.
Thanks.
U should really do 1st put the rad on than check level... very often brackets on rad not in same LVL and should be slidly up to trv valve this help air completely go out and much easy