If you like seedless fruit a little caution on getting that Meader you mentioned in the last video. That one makes male flowers. But then again maybe that would cause Rosseyanka to hold more of its crop.
So if you’re trying to maintain a smaller tree, won’t a dormant pruning promote even more vigor/unwanted growth in the following spring? I assume you wouldn’t want to sacrifice your fruit set with a spring/summer trim, but couldn’t you just avoid branches with flowers or fruit? I suppose that pruning for shape in the winter and size in the summer is an overarching generalization, but how do you prefer to balance pruning when you’re trying to keep trees small?
This year I experimented with making Hoshigaki at different ripeness stages soon after the fruit turned orange. As one would expect, the fruit was significantly more sweet as the fruit ripened and produced better Hoshigaki. However, the less ripe fruit had no astringency and was still really good. The lesson being, ripen the fruit if you can, but never throw out any astringent fruit. Dry it instead :)
I thought astringent persimmons would be hard to beat as my favorite fruit, but I haven't tried as many kinds of fruit as you, so I'm glad you agree, since it means the pinnacle of fruity goodness has always been available in America, and it seems like they grow anywhere, so it's a shame people are spending big bucks in the store instead of letting kids pick them for free in every neighborhood.
Hey Ross, Kaki flower and fruit on last years (1yo) growth. Are you pruning them while keeping that in mind? If you prune them in the wintertime, you're potentially removing all the fruiting wood for next year. Maybe leave out the winter pruning and instead prune back the branches where the flowers didn't set after flower in the summertime, so they grow new potential fruit wood for the following year in the summer. Then leave out the winter pruning again and prune the following summer instead, and so on. It's also not like you want to encourage the tree to grow taller through dormant pruning so it's a loose-loose on both sides. Tree size and fruiting.
Kind of frustrating not getting more fruits out of a tree this size...My Fuyu not persimmon(from big box store) tree turned out to be an astringent variety that produced over 100 last year for a tree less than half the size of yours. They ripen from yellow to deep orange color and stay there for a long time before softening. Before we get to them, the birds would peck on them just like figs. So I am surprised that your fruits are still intact after ripening. My solution to this is after they turned deep orange color but still hard, I harvested all of them and put them in the freezer. We'd eat them after they are thawed, which had a texture of pudding, and sweeter than the Fuyu we have. You can still taste a little bit of astringency on the skin part, but not objectionable.
I just got a little baby "Nakita's Gift" persimmon this year. I look forward to eating some yummy persimmons in a few years! I want two more persimmons... and want to try the American varieties. If you could only have two American types; what would you plant??? (No limits on space/They will be allowed to reach full size and will see full sun) Thank you for the great vids! I love them all...
@@olexander_ralka It is another one of the American/Asian hybrids. It will stay small, is more cold hardy, etc. I do hear that it does not have as much flavor as the one he has though.
5b is really pushing it for an Asian variety. Maybe if you created an amazing microclimate and babied it every winter with Christmas lights, blankets etc... but is it really worth that much work when you could just select a more cold hardy variety? Especially when you just get one super gnarly 10 year winter that kills it/hurts it a lot anyway. I'd highly recommend just going for a hybrid or American variety instead. JT-02 (aka Mikkusu) is a hybrid variety that can survive down to -20°f with no die back. And American persimmons are definitely going to give you more luck in 5b.
If you like seedless fruit a little caution on getting that Meader you mentioned in the last video. That one makes male flowers.
But then again maybe that would cause Rosseyanka to hold more of its crop.
So if you’re trying to maintain a smaller tree, won’t a dormant pruning promote even more vigor/unwanted growth in the following spring? I assume you wouldn’t want to sacrifice your fruit set with a spring/summer trim, but couldn’t you just avoid branches with flowers or fruit? I suppose that pruning for shape in the winter and size in the summer is an overarching generalization, but how do you prefer to balance pruning when you’re trying to keep trees small?
This year I experimented with making Hoshigaki at different ripeness stages soon after the fruit turned orange. As one would expect, the fruit was significantly more sweet as the fruit ripened and produced better Hoshigaki. However, the less ripe fruit had no astringency and was still really good. The lesson being, ripen the fruit if you can, but never throw out any astringent fruit. Dry it instead :)
I thought astringent persimmons would be hard to beat as my favorite fruit, but I haven't tried as many kinds of fruit as you, so I'm glad you agree, since it means the pinnacle of fruity goodness has always been available in America, and it seems like they grow anywhere, so it's a shame people are spending big bucks in the store instead of letting kids pick them for free in every neighborhood.
Have a suggestion for zone 8, where there's not always an annual deep freeze? Thanks again
Hey Ross,
Kaki flower and fruit on last years (1yo) growth. Are you pruning them while keeping that in mind? If you prune them in the wintertime, you're potentially removing all the fruiting wood for next year. Maybe leave out the winter pruning and instead prune back the branches where the flowers didn't set after flower in the summertime, so they grow new potential fruit wood for the following year in the summer. Then leave out the winter pruning again and prune the following summer instead, and so on. It's also not like you want to encourage the tree to grow taller through dormant pruning so it's a loose-loose on both sides. Tree size and fruiting.
Thanks for the pruning tip
Do you sell cutting or sell for the tree? Like to graft Rosseyanka to my Native American one
Where can I purchase one of these trees. Thanks
Kind of frustrating not getting more fruits out of a tree this size...My Fuyu not persimmon(from big box store) tree turned out to be an astringent variety that produced over 100 last year for a tree less than half the size of yours. They ripen from yellow to deep orange color and stay there for a long time before softening. Before we get to them, the birds would peck on them just like figs. So I am surprised that your fruits are still intact after ripening. My solution to this is after they turned deep orange color but still hard, I harvested all of them and put them in the freezer. We'd eat them after they are thawed, which had a texture of pudding, and sweeter than the Fuyu we have. You can still taste a little bit of astringency on the skin part, but not objectionable.
You might try the Surround Kaolin clay or the little fruit sacks/nets you tie around the fruits, depending on the size and value to you
I just got a little baby "Nakita's Gift" persimmon this year. I look forward to eating some yummy persimmons in a few years!
I want two more persimmons... and want to try the American varieties.
If you could only have two American types; what would you plant??? (No limits on space/They will be allowed to reach full size and will see full sun)
Thank you for the great vids! I love them all...
Why "nAkita's"? "Nikita's Gift" or "Nikits'ka Bordova")
@@olexander_ralka
It is another one of the American/Asian hybrids. It will stay small, is more cold hardy, etc.
I do hear that it does not have as much flavor as the one he has though.
@@great0789he was criticizing you for spelling the name wrong, saying it's Nikita with an i not an A
@@Acts-1322
Thanks
Is the American persimmon the only persimmon tree for zone 5b or is the fuyu and nakitas gift a possibility?
5b is really pushing it for an Asian variety. Maybe if you created an amazing microclimate and babied it every winter with Christmas lights, blankets etc... but is it really worth that much work when you could just select a more cold hardy variety? Especially when you just get one super gnarly 10 year winter that kills it/hurts it a lot anyway. I'd highly recommend just going for a hybrid or American variety instead. JT-02 (aka Mikkusu) is a hybrid variety that can survive down to -20°f with no die back. And American persimmons are definitely going to give you more luck in 5b.
Perhaps not fertilizing it would produce more fruit.