hair color letters & numbers (tones) explained | 2024

a breakdown of what the letters & numbers mean on hair color boxes.
*key points:
• On hair color boxes, the first number represents the level (example: 7N = hair color that is a level 7)
• Levels are how light or dark the hair is (not including tone). They are measured 1-10 (sometimes 1-12): 1= black, 10= palest yellow.
• Hair color levels ARE universal between lines- a level 7 in Redken is the same as a level 7 in Wella
• To the right of the level are more numbers or letters; these represent the tone (reds, purples, golds)
• The first letter or number representing the tone is your primary tone. For example, 6BV stands for level 6 blue, violet. Blue is listed first, so it is the primary tone; this color will have more blue. Violet is the secondary color because it is listed second, so less of this color will be added.
• The numbers and letters representing tone are NOT universal- they do not all mean the same thing between color lines. For example, 9P = 9 PURPLE in Paul Mitchell, 9P = 9 OPAL in Redken Shades EQ (opal is more of a mix of violet and blue). They are similar colors but not the same.
•Loose guide of what the letters mean:
N - Natural
A - Ash
V - Violet
R - Red
B - Brown or Beige
G - Gold
C - Copper
M - Mocha or Mahogany
W - Warm
• The N series is natural or neutral-it doesn't have an overpowering warm or cool tone. These are great for covering gray.
• When a hair has a double letter listed for a tone (7NN), it is double pigmented. These often turn out a shade darker. To avoid that, you should use a level lighter on the hair. The NN series also works really well for covering gray.
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*related videos:
color theory: • hair color theory | 2024
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