Car Key Fob Repair - Damaged PCB. Can We Fix It? Microsoldering.
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2023
- A friend damage his key fob PCB while trying to prise open the old worn out housing to fit the PCB into a new one. He asked me if I could fix the PCB for him. Let's see...
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Thank you
Richard
Well done. Might be worth adding a bit of protective coating over those other scraped tracks. Keep up the great work 😀👍
Good job Richard. When 0.2 mm solder looks huge compared to the wire you are soldering, it's fiddly work.
To protect areas I use rosin dissolved in ipa , paint it on and dry flat ..it forms a glossy non conductive film which looks ok .
Good job ,by the way.
Kia wanted £220 for 1 remote at the dealership to replace my fathers non functioning unlock button. Turned out it was only the rubber case had deteriorated from many cycles and was no longer pressing on to the internal button correctly. This was his spare and was exactly the same and had been retired some years ago as it was starting to fail the same way. 2 cases off the bay for less that £15 the pair and both remotes were fixed. Nice fix, Richard. Should last many years. Just hope the customer hasn’t lost or broken the immobiliser chip, that wouldn’t be fun 😬
A tactile switch went on mine £60 for a new fob so i ordered some off ali Express ,i used hot air but being a novice i soldered the switch on but blew 4 very small caps and or resistors off at the same time luckily i took a photo first,,its all a learning curve ktf rich 👍
Excellent fiddly work. Using the tool as a clamp and heat sink to reduce the heat transfer to the other soldered end was genius. You just need 3 hands 🤣
But I'm very intrigued to know more about the sheet of track etc repair parts. I've never seen or known about them, as a novice to the subject.
Perhaps you could do a video about them and other similar things us novices wouldn't have heard of or even thought to look for.
Thanks as ever for the great content and patience on that job 😎
Well Rick - use smaller tip for less heat transfer and you won't have troubles with those wires :)
Good work 👍👍
One victim rescued from trash 🖖 .
Personally I think you're brave filming this stuff, it's all too easy to make it look ugly at those sorts of sizes, but reality as long as it works! I've just ordered some of the green UV curing conformal coating for this sort of thing, I've used superglue in the past but it's never quite as elegant as I'd like.
I'm not sure brave comes into it - this is how it is.. for me anyway. This sort of work is fiddly but definitelyt do-able with a bit of practice and a lot of patience. When teaching viewers how to do this would there be any point in heavily editing the video to make it look easy? Surely if I did then when they try and inevitably fail first time they would think there is something wrong with themselves.
some of the tiny croc clips from those cheap test sets with red,yellow,green,white,black wires are perfect to hold things in place for repairs near the edge of the board, and as those cables fails after a few uses, it is a great way to make use of them after the give up being test leads. just remove the wire and boots and just use them as tiny clamps
That sort of thing works very well but not when you are trying to video the process under a microscope and it does not have the depth of field to focus that high (without a lot of loosening bolts and mounting it higher up) 😉 Or maybe I'm beeing too lazy to do that 😅
Heya, richard that is a nice repair hope the owner will be happy for a long time
Nice save
If your side cutter is blunt, you can always use nail clippers, always works for me.
Great repair. You really need to get some blue tack - it's a perfect third hand and for holding small boards down. Self-closing tweezers work well as heat sinks and for clamping when close to the edge of a board. Also, there are pens available for solder mask repair - good for preventing future corrosion. Regards, David
Errm yeah I said that in the video actually - then realised I didn't have any (nor did the wife who usually has everything) so went for the sticky tape as second best
Nice work
Just fixed one key fob that was dippen in some weird black gunk. Got lucky and had old Epson projector that had the exact size&footprint SMD switches.
I’d have used a couple of legs that you cut from a soldered through hole capacitor for this, but only because I hoard them for repairs like this.
Much love! You sometimes try too hard to self like that first connection of pins you rly waned to make it look original but none will judge you :)
Another excellent video thank you.
One thing with UV conformal coating is that it can be scraped away should to expose the repair area in the future should a further repair or check be needed.
I'm not sure of the long term stability of mixing the Indium based solders in with the lead free: but, it's probably okay. I tend to think using a low temp solder is less risky than lifting traces. Also don't know if you can still get really fine lead based solder: better if you can get a really fine indium based solder. I tend to bodge some really fine insulated wire, point to point. Also, I like to glue down the wire before soldering. PCB repair kits used to come with the same kind of epoxy that is used to hold down the traces of the pcb. If you are bridging a pcb trace break (unless it a strip line, or impedance matching trace), a longer wire is better, if it can fit. Sometimes, a little fluxed solder paste will work. A U.V. cured conformal coating is also a good cover for the repair, and will hold down any bodge wires. I think if you can solder well, and have a good fine tip, good solder... 80% of it is in prep work... cleaning the board, and mechanically securing the bodge wire.
Use some sort of plier clamp as a heat sink for the first soldered end?
Maybe easier with a smaller iron bit, also using a clip to act as a heat sink on the wire to prevent the first joint to melt
Well done 😁
Nice!no time for a shaking hand ;)
I watch this and I get the shakes lol
It's easier if you use tweezers to catch the wire
Don't you need three hands to do it that way?
What glue exactly you used? Does this glue turn into crystal after drying? Does it become conductive over time?
Any specific reason why you are not using solder mask hardened by UV light?
It was two part clear epoxy resin. In the UK a common brand is Araldite. I don't know about elsewhere
Great 👍
what if you wiped off some flux between the 2 joints so that heat doesnt flow over so well to the other side?
Good question. I never knew flux was a good conductor of heat. Can anyone else comment on this?
Genuine replacement key-fobs are prohibitively expensive!
I would of tinned the corroded parts too so that it would not get worse only takes 4 seconds....
Its not corroded, its isolation removed when owner tried to open it. Proper fix is to use solder mask and UV light.
@@orion310591RS Argreed
@@LearnElectronicsRepair 8:40 - One more thing, I had situation with ripped trace, near chip, but trace was like 3mm in length, then followed by thru hole. What I did is I placed strand of wire, through that thru hole, soldered it from other side, then placed end of strand on chip leg. Its almost impossible to get 1st end loose if its placed through hole then soldered.
You had the same situation now, you didnt used hole. Just an idea for future.
I'm starting to resign myself to the fact I'll need to spend the money on a microscope. While my eyesight is quite good, the combination of such fine traces, obscured by flux and solder and the awkwardness when working around other components makes it seen a necessity.
I freely admit I couldn't do this without my binocular optical microscope. I need the magnification and the stereoscopic vision for depth perception
You are using wrong soldering tips for that job it must be pencil thin tips it's easier to yack it rather than with wide tip because of size of heat area and please use tweezers it's easier to hold thin wire while tacking