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I actually only have the RL125 hooked up to the CF741. It's plenty for that one machine, but i have another dust extractor running to other machines. My only complaint about the RL125 is how small the bin is. I think it's 53 gallons, and when i'm running a lot of material, i do need to empty it numerous times throughout the machining processes. With such a small shop, i am very space concious, and am currently toying with the idea of changing the layout in the shop slightly to get rid of the other dust extractor along with the RL 125 and going to a larger machine, maybe the 160 or 200. However going this way will only double the capacity in terms of the chip volume.
For the floor where this is going, the peices will span wall to wall, so no need for tongue and groove on the ends. In that case though, i'd use the outrigger on the slider to support the pieces & clamp the end that was being machined. Basically just like you would do a cope cut on a door rail. As far as it stopping the cupping, i'm not sure it would actually stop the cupping. The forces involved with wood movement are pretty crazy. What it would likely do is keep the ends even, so a good idea regardless.
Ha, ha. Good question! A lot of the time i can go from past experience. Using the machinery on a daily basis helps to know how long set up takes for any given process. Knowing that i can run the thickness planer at 6m or 12m per minute for example will give me a pretty good idea of how long that will take given the linear footage of material to be run. With shaper operations, or even using the feeder with the jointer, i know roughly what speed i can run it at to get a nice finish for various different processes. Again, i can then work out roughly how long the process will take based on how much material i have to run. In total, there were 6 different set ups / operations for this flooring. Setting up the power feeder for the jointer is fast, then changing to the thickness planer is very fast. There's only a few minutes involved in setting up the saw, so that too is very fast. Shaper setup is always a little slower, but again, i'm talking maybe 10 min for the initial setup, then maybe 5-10 to change shaper processes depending on how much needs to be changed. Based on all of that, i can estimate the per meter, or per foot cost. Thanks for watching!
Matt Cremona had an episode where he went through the process of making flooring using a 4-sided Logosol / Woodmizer moulder and it looked absolutely painful to set up and get working correctly. Conventional machines as you've shown here are a much better choice for short runs.
Hi Peter, Thanks for watching. I don't have any experience with the Logosol / Woodmizer moulder so can't speak to its ease of setup. I guess that's one of the drawbacks of a machine like that. A Wadkin or Weinig while still time consuming to set up, are likely easier simply because they are a more refined machine. The quality of cut & speed of a nice 5 head moulder is why they cost so much, & likely where you would see the biggest difference compared to the Logosol / Woodmizer. If you are efficient at setting up the machine/s for each of the different processes to make flooring, then yeah definitely, for short runs and for material that isn't an off the shelf item, making flooring this way makes sense.
I have a wood mizer mp260 and I can confirm you would not really want to buy one if you weren't doing decent size runs. Some things are easy to adjust. Some things are like pulling teeth.
@@feastoncarolina9544 Aha i see. I'd still love to see one in the flesh some time & better yet, have a play with one. They seem like a pretty basic machine, but still have most of the funcionality of the more expensive moulders. Unfortunately i don't space for any other machinery in the shop, so that makes sticking with what i've got easy. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching @remingtonatcheson8106, I used two different cutters for the relief cuts. One is a 1/4" brazed carbide, the other an insert knife groover. Both from memory are 40mm in diameter and that's why i used those two together. I stacked them with a spacer in between so i could space them out relatively evenly. I ran each board through twice, flipping it end for end in between to end up with 4 individual cuts. Hope that explains it well enough.
I wanted to know how hard or easy it would be to veneer a hard wood to boards yourself for a flooring. Like engineered hardwood flooring. Have you ever done that? How would you do it if you were going to, glues and methods for DIY people? 😊
Ooh that's a good question. I've never done it, but it would be possible. Pretty sure it would be way more cost effective to just buy it. Having said that, if you had a species you couldn't get off the shelf, this is how i would go about it. You could use a 1/2" ply ripped to a bit over your finished width. I'd make the top veneer 5/16" thick at least, & glue that to the ply with something like Titebond III. If you are able to make up an I-beam to clamp the pieces to, that will keep it all nice and straight and if you work fast, you could get multiple pieces glued up at the same time. (Use a small paint roller to roll out the glue) You will need plenty of clamps, and plenty of time! After taking the pieces out of the clamps you could then go ahead and machine everything up just like i have in the video.
@leonie9782, I did about 700 sq feet of hard maple flooring by cutting it all on a bandsaw. I used a carbide resaw blade and a homemade feeder system. I made the veneers about 5/16" thick and mostly 10' in lengths. I did a very weird floor system where I glued and stapled down two layers of 1/2" osb for the subfloor. Any uneven joints were sanded flush. I then glued and and used an 18 gauge finish nailer to top nail the veneer to the osb. But basically the flooring glue did the work of holding the veneers to the osb subfloor. The floor came out great, the boards were tight but I didn't really care if there were small gaps as I wanted a different look. The wide planks and long lengths looked nice. But if I had to do it all over again, I think I would have used thicker veneers as some of the finish nails would go completely through the thin veneer. I did have some problems with the glue skinning over too quickly also. The other way to do it would be as Bryce suggests and make engineered flooring. But I think you really don't need t&g flooring as floors used to just be boards nailed to the floor. For me it's all about the quality of lumber you use. Anyway, I'm not suggesting that you do as I did, but I'm just trying to encourage anyone to think out if the box and sometimes it can work. ,
@@tomruth9487 That really is thinking outside the box. Well done! As you say, with the subfloor you can get away without making the tongue and groove for the purpose of keeping the boards from moving. I guess though, you had to face nail it all? The nice thing about the t&g is being able to blind nail. While a thicker veneer may have solved your issue of the nails punching through, it may have actually created another problem with wood movement througout the seasons. The thinner the veneer, the less prone they would be to movement when glued down.
@@brycecomerwoodworks I asked a longtime woodworker friend as to how thick wood can be so it's still veneer and not considered solid wood, his reply was about 1/4". So you're right, it's a different animal if it's 1/2" thick. But I do believe the new adhesives made especially for flooring allow for this movement. Years ago on installing 3/4" t&g doug fir in my bedroom, I had the bright idea of putting tighbond on all the tongues. Boy was that a mistake, as long cracks appeared the next season down the middle of some of the boards due to seasonal changes. Had I not stapled it down also, it might have survived as a "floating floor". Lesson learned.
@@tomruth9487 Oh that's a bummer about that t&g fir floor Tom. I've been doing this for 40 years & i'm still learning, so don't feel bad. I'm not sure how much movement the glues made for flooring allow for to be honest. My guess is, the thicker they are applied, the more movement they would allow for if they remain flexible?? As for how thick is a veneer, well that's kind of asking how long is a piece of string, but typically i would say it was 1/8" or less, and probably more commonly less.
Ha, ha. Yes, it is very mixed up. I grew up in Australia, that's where i did my apprenticeship. I've worked in Austria, the Netherlands, SE Asia and now live in Canada. 😆
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, here is another one you might like. ruclips.net/video/YkAyw1Q1Uxk/видео.html
Remember, if you like the video and would like to see more content like it, please like, subscribe, and even share this video. 😊
How well does your RL125 work? Do you think its powerful enough for a small/medium workshop like yours acting as a central unit?
I actually only have the RL125 hooked up to the CF741. It's plenty for that one machine, but i have another dust extractor running to other machines. My only complaint about the RL125 is how small the bin is. I think it's 53 gallons, and when i'm running a lot of material, i do need to empty it numerous times throughout the machining processes. With such a small shop, i am very space concious, and am currently toying with the idea of changing the layout in the shop slightly to get rid of the other dust extractor along with the RL 125 and going to a larger machine, maybe the 160 or 200. However going this way will only double the capacity in terms of the chip volume.
Thoughts on tongue and groove on the ends of the boards? Wouldn't you want that to hold the ends of the boards from cupping up?
For the floor where this is going, the peices will span wall to wall, so no need for tongue and groove on the ends. In that case though, i'd use the outrigger on the slider to support the pieces & clamp the end that was being machined. Basically just like you would do a cope cut on a door rail. As far as it stopping the cupping, i'm not sure it would actually stop the cupping. The forces involved with wood movement are pretty crazy. What it would likely do is keep the ends even, so a good idea regardless.
Hi Bryce , how do you go about working out the per metre cost of machining flooring ? So many operations to consider
Ha, ha. Good question! A lot of the time i can go from past experience. Using the machinery on a daily basis helps to know how long set up takes for any given process. Knowing that i can run the thickness planer at 6m or 12m per minute for example will give me a pretty good idea of how long that will take given the linear footage of material to be run. With shaper operations, or even using the feeder with the jointer, i know roughly what speed i can run it at to get a nice finish for various different processes. Again, i can then work out roughly how long the process will take based on how much material i have to run. In total, there were 6 different set ups / operations for this flooring. Setting up the power feeder for the jointer is fast, then changing to the thickness planer is very fast. There's only a few minutes involved in setting up the saw, so that too is very fast. Shaper setup is always a little slower, but again, i'm talking maybe 10 min for the initial setup, then maybe 5-10 to change shaper processes depending on how much needs to be changed. Based on all of that, i can estimate the per meter, or per foot cost.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for that Bryce - look forward to the next instalment 👍
Matt Cremona had an episode where he went through the process of making flooring using a 4-sided Logosol / Woodmizer moulder and it looked absolutely painful to set up and get working correctly. Conventional machines as you've shown here are a much better choice for short runs.
Hi Peter,
Thanks for watching. I don't have any experience with the Logosol / Woodmizer moulder so can't speak to its ease of setup. I guess that's one of the drawbacks of a machine like that. A Wadkin or Weinig while still time consuming to set up, are likely easier simply because they are a more refined machine. The quality of cut & speed of a nice 5 head moulder is why they cost so much, & likely where you would see the biggest difference compared to the Logosol / Woodmizer.
If you are efficient at setting up the machine/s for each of the different processes to make flooring, then yeah definitely, for short runs and for material that isn't an off the shelf item, making flooring this way makes sense.
I have a wood mizer mp260 and I can confirm you would not really want to buy one if you weren't doing decent size runs. Some things are easy to adjust. Some things are like pulling teeth.
@@feastoncarolina9544 Aha i see. I'd still love to see one in the flesh some time & better yet, have a play with one. They seem like a pretty basic machine, but still have most of the funcionality of the more expensive moulders. Unfortunately i don't space for any other machinery in the shop, so that makes sticking with what i've got easy. Thanks for watching.
what type of cutter are you using to add the grooves to the bottom?
Thanks for watching @remingtonatcheson8106,
I used two different cutters for the relief cuts. One is a 1/4" brazed carbide, the other an insert knife groover. Both from memory are 40mm in diameter and that's why i used those two together. I stacked them with a spacer in between so i could space them out relatively evenly. I ran each board through twice, flipping it end for end in between to end up with 4 individual cuts. Hope that explains it well enough.
I wanted to know how hard or easy it would be to veneer a hard wood to boards yourself for a flooring. Like engineered hardwood flooring. Have you ever done that? How would you do it if you were going to, glues and methods for DIY people? 😊
Ooh that's a good question. I've never done it, but it would be possible. Pretty sure it would be way more cost effective to just buy it. Having said that, if you had a species you couldn't get off the shelf, this is how i would go about it. You could use a 1/2" ply ripped to a bit over your finished width. I'd make the top veneer 5/16" thick at least, & glue that to the ply with something like Titebond III. If you are able to make up an I-beam to clamp the pieces to, that will keep it all nice and straight and if you work fast, you could get multiple pieces glued up at the same time. (Use a small paint roller to roll out the glue) You will need plenty of clamps, and plenty of time! After taking the pieces out of the clamps you could then go ahead and machine everything up just like i have in the video.
@leonie9782, I did about 700 sq feet of hard maple flooring by cutting it all on a bandsaw. I used a carbide resaw blade and a homemade feeder system. I made the veneers about 5/16" thick and mostly 10' in lengths. I did a very weird floor system where I glued and stapled down two layers of 1/2" osb for the subfloor. Any uneven joints were sanded flush. I then glued and and used an 18 gauge finish nailer to top nail the veneer to the osb. But basically the flooring glue did the work of holding the veneers to the osb subfloor. The floor came out great, the boards were tight but I didn't really care if there were small gaps as I wanted a different look. The wide planks and long lengths looked nice. But if I had to do it all over again, I think I would have used thicker veneers as some of the finish nails would go completely through the thin veneer. I did have some problems with the glue skinning over too quickly also. The other way to do it would be as Bryce suggests and make engineered flooring. But I think you really don't need t&g flooring as floors used to just be boards nailed to the floor. For me it's all about the quality of lumber you use. Anyway, I'm not suggesting that you do as I did, but I'm just trying to encourage anyone to think out if the box and sometimes it can work.
,
@@tomruth9487 That really is thinking outside the box. Well done! As you say, with the subfloor you can get away without making the tongue and groove for the purpose of keeping the boards from moving. I guess though, you had to face nail it all? The nice thing about the t&g is being able to blind nail. While a thicker veneer may have solved your issue of the nails punching through, it may have actually created another problem with wood movement througout the seasons. The thinner the veneer, the less prone they would be to movement when glued down.
@@brycecomerwoodworks I asked a longtime woodworker friend as to how thick wood can be so it's still veneer and not considered solid wood, his reply was about 1/4". So you're right, it's a different animal if it's 1/2" thick. But I do believe the new adhesives made especially for flooring allow for this movement. Years ago on installing 3/4" t&g doug fir in my bedroom, I had the bright idea of putting tighbond on all the tongues. Boy was that a mistake, as long cracks appeared the next season down the middle of some of the boards due to seasonal changes. Had I not stapled it down also, it might have survived as a "floating floor". Lesson learned.
@@tomruth9487 Oh that's a bummer about that t&g fir floor Tom. I've been doing this for 40 years & i'm still learning, so don't feel bad. I'm not sure how much movement the glues made for flooring allow for to be honest. My guess is, the thicker they are applied, the more movement they would allow for if they remain flexible?? As for how thick is a veneer, well that's kind of asking how long is a piece of string, but typically i would say it was 1/8" or less, and probably more commonly less.
That is one muddled
Accent, I hear at least 3-4 different dialects
Where are you from / been sir?
Ha, ha. Yes, it is very mixed up. I grew up in Australia, that's where i did my apprenticeship. I've worked in Austria, the Netherlands, SE Asia and now live in Canada. 😆