Making Tools To Make Guitar Making Tools @the
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- Опубликовано: 24 мар 2024
- An overview of making a router jig in order to rebuild a fingerboard radius jig. Emphasizing the importance of making your own tools, jigs, and fixtures as much as you can. @thepragmaticluthier
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Tools to make tools - love it!
That can even get into three or four layers of that:)
! I like enjoyed and liked this Video, as-usual, but what i REALLY would've liked to have seen is fitting that Rotary Table with the wooden Inserts
Thank you!
I use something along that line only not nearly as sophisticated. I use a similar size piece of plexiglass, something I used years ago for adjustable shelf pin holes. Mounted my router to one end and just drill a hole for the radius I want. Yours is much nicer and not as likely to self destruct.
Hi for most work holding on the cnc and mill where the conventional vice/clamps aren’t ideal I use the masking tape and superglue (thick) method .. I’ve never had one come loose .. it’s great for plexiglass,wood and even brass and aluminum .. for small aluminum or brass parts I usually deck a larger aluminum piece held in the vice and directly superglue it to the aluminum.. alcohol will free and clean it up easily ..
Although this operation was very successful, I should have properly held the work down on packing, secured with strap clamps. I've never used double faced tape or cyanoacrylate on a milling machine.
The ca/tape method is a great trick I’ve used it on the metal lathe .. it stands up well to coolant etc
When cutting aluminum I’ve switched over to using alcohol..
I've made similar devices, though not as spiffy as this one. They're really useful. One word of caution, the farther from that center point you set the router (ie: the larger the radius), the more you'll need to support the "free" end of the arm. The weight of the router will cause the whole arm to deflect which may create an error in your finished piece. Ask me how I know. ;)
There is no free end of the arm. It is supported at one end by the router base and at the other by the center pin block. do i understand you correctly?
I believe router circle cutting jigs are commercially available. Instead of drawer slides use liner
roller guide rails, they're inexpensive.
Circle cutting jigs are commercially available, clumsy, expensive, and made to someone else's specifications. My reason for rebuilding the jig is to eliminate drawer slides. They will be replaced with the very best: Thompson linear motion rod and recirculating ball bearing blocks. I happen to have a bunch of it:)
I assume the drawer slide's tolerances deteriorated with time - what made you aware of the problem with your radiusing jig? Nice circle-cutting jig. Thanks for sharing.
The slide may have deteriorated, but I think the problem may have been threat least in part, from the beginning. I've been spending too much time refining what the jig does and not enough time carefully analyzing. Finally, the light came on and I have been simultaneously embarrassed and dissatisfied. The new device will be very similar in design but the drawer slide will be replaced with a carriage riding on Thomnpson linear motion rods and bearing blocks. Unfortunately, $$.
A suggestion: when you have wood parts sliding against wood parts. if you rub in some hard carnauba wax of the type used to wax cars the parts will glide over each other like butter
Thank you for that suggestion:)
@@thepragmaticluthier this also works like magic when you have wood furniture like a dresser or chest of drawers-just heavily wax the contact portion of the drawer and the case rail. Carnauba car (paste) wax works infinitely better than hard beeswax or soap.
I also use this as a wood finish for the interior of wood drawers
Rather than making a sliding fretboard tray, why don't you make that stationary and have the router assembly slide over it? It would be more compact and more accurate.
When the router does the traveling, it distributed chips and dust even further and some of that swarf gets into the track that the router travels in. Tried it, didn't;'t work out at all.
This is wayyyy to complicated and expensive! David Fletcher of Fletcher Guitars shows us how to do this with a simple radius block and a flat surface (table saw). It’s simple, cheap and accurate. If you go and watch his Stratocaster build series and pick the second in the series he shows how to do this.
Fletcher's method is direct, accurate and excellent and I would recommend it for anyone who prefers low tech methods. I'll be the first to admit that this system is complicated and sometimes making tools can be expensive, but I have four principle reasons for making tools: to reduce time spent on a procedure, to ensure a predetermined level of accuracy, it makes every aspect of operating my shop more fun, and because I can:)
"More fun" is always a fantastic reason!@@thepragmaticluthier