Just wanted to let everyone know about the beeps: If you are fed up with the loud beep sounds (I know I was) you can turn it off. Instructions tell you how. Hold down the output button for 5 seconds to alter the machine states. You can adjust the brightness and other things
So far I've have good luck with mine. I like being able to set the current to a safe level of whatever it is that you're powering it to avoid blowing stuff up that you're testing. And the short circuit protection is also great for testing circuits. It works just fine as a power supply for a 12v radio too, but more importantly, for little components like 2vdc LEDs at 20ma as well...
One really great feature your power supply has is the output on and off button. I think you will find that very useful as you explore the field of electronics.
Yeah, I paid a bit more because of the ability to just poke a button to apply power and cut it off. I'm mad at myself for not having one sooner. I've managed to get this far in life on a 12v supply I bought in 1995 and a multi-voltage wall-wart that goes from 1.5 - 12vdc. This is so much better.
The "CV" on the display indicates that it is in "Constant Voltage" mode. from the operator's manual: The working characteristic of this series of power supplies is the constant voltage/constant current automatic conversion type, which can automatically change between constant voltage and constant current states with the change of load. The intersection point between constant voltage and constant current is called the conversion point. For example, if the load makes the power supply work in a constant voltage mode, it outputs a constant voltage. As the load increases, the output voltage will remain stable and the output current will increase. When the current value reaches the set current limit value, the power supply will automatically switch to constant current mode. The output current remains stable, and the output voltage decreases proportionally with the further increase of the load. The conversion between constant voltage and constant current is indicated by the LED on the front panel. The CV indicator light is on when the voltage is constant, and the CC indicator light is on when the current is constant. 5. OCP short circuit protection WPS model: Press the “CURRENT” coding switch for 3 seconds to turn on (or turn off) the OCP short-circuit protection alarm function (OCP = Over Current Protection)
Yeah, it'll be handy to do things like figure out current draw of components so I can calculate circuits and I can also feed very specific voltages to things with the current overdraw protection. It seems to work well. I've also had good luck running barefoot CB radios with it. It's not noisy on the RF spectrum, so it'll have all sorts of uses for me.
Really helpful in helping me decide which one to order, ordering now based on this demo, thanks. By the way, spade connectors are useful... it means you have have additional plugs connected on top if you need to power more than one thing at a time. For instance if you want to charge multiple batteries. And soldering isn't always better than crimp connectors I find, because with solder you introduce the risk of oxidisation. If the crimping is done well I would leave it alone. I made the mistake of soldering over crimped wires before. I don't think the metal in the clamps likes solder
I bought the it's brother and from what I read it's supposed to be good for hobby and DIY it's not to bad from others measuring it but they say the same if you're doing precession stuff then yeah you need high end, for me my 30v, 10amp is magic and it pushed itself to almost 32v hehe
Hello, don't know much about electronics. Want to purchase a bench power supply. I see many choices from 30V 3 amp to 120V 3 amp ones for sale. Why wouldn't I buy the one with the most accessible Volts? I will be using it to check Kobalt 80V 6 amp batteries. What would anyone suggest? Thanks for your time.
The way most of these power supplies work is that they put out their maximum current (amps) at the lowest voltage. So a power supply rated at 5v-20v and 5 amps puts out the full 5 amps at 5v, but only puts out 1.25 amps at 20v. So in my case, I don't need a power supply that goes up to 120v because I usually work on things requiring 30vdc or less. And if I needed more current to test things, I would have to buy a more expensive unit that is capable of providing more amps at the voltage rating I need.
@@421CentralIowa Thanks, so I guess what I'm trying to say is ... To try to bring back the Kobalt 80V 6 ah battery, would I need a power supply with at least 80 V and at least 6 amps, or would the 80 to 120 V supply work with just 3 amps to get it in recoverable mode to put on the Kobalt charger? Hope I'm not making this too difficult to understand....thanks.
@@craigstrbo Typically you don't need the battery's full output to recharge it. You may need the 80v, but only 500mA - 1A or so. That's still a pretty beefy power supply.
I'm just using these cheap ones with screws to make the connections. It would be better to have some that you can solder onto the power wires: www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Banana-Speaker-Cable-Connectors/dp/B00APVQZ8U
@@421CentralIowa Thanks for replying. I’m having a few issues with clips. I’m getting no reading when I touch them together to test. Display doesn’t change. Any idea? Thanks
@@dononeill1256 I'd test your wires that come off of the scope with a continuity checker and use the same multimeter to check your power supply itself to make sure it's putting out power.
@@421CentralIowa I’m new to this. When I join the multimeter and the lugs together, the multimeter is reading .739 continuity and the power bench is reading nothing. No change on the screen. The power bench is not reading any connection .Are the cables faulty or the unit. This brand new. Thank you any advice you can give.
Just wanted to let everyone know about the beeps: If you are fed up with the loud beep sounds (I know I was) you can turn it off. Instructions tell you how. Hold down the output button for 5 seconds to alter the machine states. You can adjust the brightness and other things
The radiator joke made me laugh out loud haha
Thanks for this review - I just ordered mine today and your review was very helpful
So far I've have good luck with mine. I like being able to set the current to a safe level of whatever it is that you're powering it to avoid blowing stuff up that you're testing. And the short circuit protection is also great for testing circuits. It works just fine as a power supply for a 12v radio too, but more importantly, for little components like 2vdc LEDs at 20ma as well...
One really great feature your power supply has is the output on and off button. I think you will find that very useful as you explore the field of electronics.
Yeah, I paid a bit more because of the ability to just poke a button to apply power and cut it off. I'm mad at myself for not having one sooner. I've managed to get this far in life on a 12v supply I bought in 1995 and a multi-voltage wall-wart that goes from 1.5 - 12vdc. This is so much better.
The "CV" on the display indicates that it is in "Constant Voltage" mode.
from the operator's manual:
The working characteristic of this series of power supplies is the constant voltage/constant current automatic
conversion type, which can automatically change between constant voltage and constant current states with the
change of load. The intersection point between constant voltage and constant current is called the conversion
point. For example, if the load makes the power supply work in a constant voltage mode, it outputs a constant
voltage. As the load increases, the
output voltage will remain stable and the output current will increase. When the
current value reaches the set current limit value, the power supply will automatically switch to constant current
mode. The output current remains stable, and the output voltage decreases proportionally with the further
increase of the load. The conversion between constant voltage and constant current is indicated by the LED on
the front panel. The CV indicator light is on when the voltage is constant, and the CC indicator light is on when the
current is constant.
5. OCP short circuit protection
WPS model: Press the “CURRENT” coding switch for 3 seconds to turn on (or turn off) the OCP short-circuit
protection alarm function (OCP = Over Current Protection)
That is a very cool power supply. Thank you for posting this video.
Yeah, it'll be handy to do things like figure out current draw of components so I can calculate circuits and I can also feed very specific voltages to things with the current overdraw protection. It seems to work well. I've also had good luck running barefoot CB radios with it. It's not noisy on the RF spectrum, so it'll have all sorts of uses for me.
Really helpful in helping me decide which one to order, ordering now based on this demo, thanks.
By the way, spade connectors are useful... it means you have have additional plugs connected on top if you need to power more than one thing at a time. For instance if you want to charge multiple batteries. And soldering isn't always better than crimp connectors I find, because with solder you introduce the risk of oxidisation. If the crimping is done well I would leave it alone. I made the mistake of soldering over crimped wires before. I don't think the metal in the clamps likes solder
i need to set 5ampere on 12v but whe i press the output button amepre automaitcally goes to 4.4 with 12v... can some one help me plz
Will it do constant voltage and constant current? Ta
Whats the best setting for electroforming
I bought the it's brother and from what I read it's supposed to be good for hobby and DIY it's not to bad from others measuring it but they say the same if you're doing precession stuff then yeah you need high end, for me my 30v, 10amp is magic and it pushed itself to almost 32v hehe
Hello, don't know much about electronics. Want to purchase a bench power supply. I see many choices from 30V 3 amp to 120V 3 amp ones for sale. Why wouldn't I buy the one with the most accessible Volts? I will be using it to check Kobalt 80V 6 amp batteries. What would anyone suggest? Thanks for your time.
The way most of these power supplies work is that they put out their maximum current (amps) at the lowest voltage. So a power supply rated at 5v-20v and 5 amps puts out the full 5 amps at 5v, but only puts out 1.25 amps at 20v. So in my case, I don't need a power supply that goes up to 120v because I usually work on things requiring 30vdc or less. And if I needed more current to test things, I would have to buy a more expensive unit that is capable of providing more amps at the voltage rating I need.
@@421CentralIowa Thanks, so I guess what I'm trying to say is ... To try to bring back the Kobalt 80V 6 ah battery, would I need a power supply with at least 80 V and at least 6 amps, or would the 80 to 120 V supply work with just 3 amps to get it in recoverable mode to put on the Kobalt charger? Hope I'm not making this too difficult to understand....thanks.
@@craigstrbo Typically you don't need the battery's full output to recharge it. You may need the 80v, but only 500mA - 1A or so. That's still a pretty beefy power supply.
@@421CentralIowa Ok, thanks a lot. I think I'll go with the 80V or 120V 0-3 amp unit. thanks again.
Hi, what type of banana plugs did you get? Thanks
I'm just using these cheap ones with screws to make the connections. It would be better to have some that you can solder onto the power wires: www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Banana-Speaker-Cable-Connectors/dp/B00APVQZ8U
@@421CentralIowa Thanks for replying. I’m having a few issues with clips. I’m getting no reading when I touch them together to test. Display doesn’t change. Any idea? Thanks
@@dononeill1256 I'd test your wires that come off of the scope with a continuity checker and use the same multimeter to check your power supply itself to make sure it's putting out power.
@@421CentralIowa I’m new to this. When I join the multimeter and the lugs together, the multimeter is reading .739 continuity and the power bench is reading nothing. No change on the screen. The power bench is not reading any connection .Are the cables faulty or the unit. This brand new.
Thank you any advice you can give.