I remember science class when the teacher put a vacuum cleaner on a big tin can and sucked it into a crinkled mess. :-) My factory made cyclone has a vacuum relief valve with a spring. It opens if the hose gets blocked. Now I want to make a portable one like this and found your video while looking to RUclips to inspire me!
I had the same issue with one of those industrial blue thick plastic barrels. If I left all the blast gates closed it would collapse. I made a wooden cruciform to go inside as a support which cured it.
Looks quite familiar! I bought one of them after seeing all sorts of videos on RUclips and tried it with a wall chaser. Brick dust clogs up bags long before they're full, so in theory you want a vacuum with self-cleaning filter and those are bloody expensive! My first attempt was with a plastic bucket, which got crushed fairly quickly. I then progressed to an old steel bucket with an improvised timber lid (held in place and sealed with duck tape of course), which worked reasonably well. After half an hour or so I started getting clouds of dust from the chaser though and went back to just a kango. Suction still seemed fine so I guess the walls might have been different. My Karcher has 32 mm accessories I think, so I had to get creative with the plumbing, relying on plenty of "flexible silver universal adaptors" (as my brother nicely referred to duck tape) and two half-litre PET bottles.
Nice. I have somewhat the same thought. I haven't done anything with my Festool vacuum, but have one of those "dust deputies" on my more basic shop vac. Problem with the Dust Deputy, it is sort of cumbersome to move around. I do have a larger Vacuum unit, (cyclone) that I generally use between most machines that I can't easily run piping to. But as we all know, using a portable for anything that really puts out shavings or dust, (like a planer or jointer) just means that you will have to empty bags often. So I built another permanent system for those machines where it pulls it outside to the big plywood box for dumping. (air return back inside thru filters so that it doesn't cool down the shop in the winter). With 200+ cubic feet of volume, I don't have to empty it as often... Nice work.
I was so relieved when you tested for continuity. would have been dissapointed otherwise 🤣 dude even turns the sound down for us when jigsawing metal, kudos.
My favorite part was when the screen flashed "Ouroboros" for just a split second while the vacuum cleaner was cleaning itself...You are my kind of funny. Great work. All around.
It was the scientific testing that made the fully engieered improvements :) :) :) just shows what a good vac the Festool is over most other shop vac's. Love the vid.
Hi I made the same set up some years ago and had the collapsing Tin Problem, I found a useful Safty valve Idea on the New Brit Workshop. Peter made a magnetic safety valve from a jamjar lid. I havent had any problems since I copied this little helper and I use it every day. I also have a few other cyclones from Clear view which work very well. Better than the cheap one I have.
@@EaterOfBaconSandwiches There were plenty of metal screws through the plastic, that provide a focus for the static to discharge without arcing. Even one earthed point in that tiny volume would do the job, especially at those flow rates.
Красава, парень. Отличная идея заземлить пылесос, от статического электричества вся проблема этого китайского циклона. У многих он плохо работал. Есть еще плоская конструкция. При ней получается большая тяга при меньших габаритах.
I built a similar system in my shop years ago. Your Festool is WAY to powerful for such a small cyclone, the wood shavings just get sucked through the system before they have room to settle. I tested mine with a weaker vacuum and it worked great. Then I got a larger cyclone and it worked well with my more powerful vacuum.
First of all, in an ocean of American videos (not necessarily a criticism), anything with 'Yorkshire' in the name has to be worth a watch. Secondly, your skills and step-by-step how-to, laced with humour, was great fun to watch. I'm about to buy a dust extractor (was swithering about Festool but they are *soooo* expensive...) I was wondering about making a cyclone. And here you are. And here I am, learning and laughing. I've had a peak at your blog also and already, despite the recent start, it's clear you have a *lot* of things to show us and skills to demonstrate. Can't wait to see what's coming... Thanks for posting and please keep them coming. Regards from far north of the Wall.
I made something very similar, which now sits next to my Numatic Henry. I found I had to fit a vacuum relief valve that opens to let air into the cyclobe if the intake gets blocked. This does two things, it keeps the air rotation going inside the cyclone , which stops things getting sucked through into the vac and it stops the vac from sucking the big dust container flat. When I taught woodwork we had a built in set up which sucked stuff into a big bag held over a wire mesh frame. Bag kept popping in through the holes and bursting inwards. So we bought a galvanized steel dustbin. Ever seen a full sized dustbin sucked flat? We did.
@@donaldasayers All you need is a minor second hole on the vacuum hose (not to big to deminish vacuum power)...ever seen a household vacuum...they all have a passive hole on the end of the hose to let air in when intake is blocked
Glad this worked I purchased one of the smaller ones for my media blaster. Glad to know I didn't waste my money. Thanks for sharing! Thumbs Up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I hope you considered adding a plastic bag to line the blue can, making sawdust removal easier. Thanks for sharing this video. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Cheers.
The plastic bag would get sucked up into the vacuum - don't ask me how I know - The Festool unit has a tube running into the base of the barrel to hold the bag down
thanks. ive had some pretty good jolts from ungrounded vacs, especially when pvc is involved as it creates a lot of static. can be quite dangerous when holding spinning death blades and router cutters!
At industry level, grounding of cyclones is done to prevent sparking (prevent dust explosion) and at the same time it solves the risk for shocks. As an electrician, I would add a screw and washer to clamp and connect the end of the metal strip on the lid of the vessel. Because the glue from the strip is most probably not a reliable conductor.
I tried using a blue plastic tub and put a hinged brace inside to stop it collapsing. I soon got fed up of that and made a large "systainer" shaped box out of some old oak headboards that you always have laying around. The lid is removable and sealed using some epdm door seal and it is complete with brass door handles to facilitate lifting both the lid and also the whole unit although I do lift the whole unit from the bottom if I'm taking it up and down stairs. The screw on plastic sustainer feet I bought just weren't strong enough so I made them out of aluminium. It's bit heavy but at least it doesn't collapse.
I've found that the amount of airflow through the cyclone dramatically affects the efficiency of the separation of materials and air. That vacuum moves a lot of air. You could try to vent the suction side a little bit with perhaps an adjustable vent and get better material separation but it is at the expense of the vacuum suction at the business end.
Cracking vid Russ. Thinking of doing similar for my workshop as tired of emptying and cleaning filters every few days. Note to self is buy a rigid collector lol😂.
At the collapsing tin stage it seems to me that you didn't have a bag in the vac; could this have contributed to the problem? Impressed by your idea of using the FS locking tabs to retain the ply base.
I like your videos but I’m always amazed by the amount of dust on everything in your shop. Festool Vacs are great for tool dust collection but I don’t think it’s going to handle your shop!
yeah well it is a wood working shop so all day long 6 days a week i almost exclusively do things like cut wood and sand wood and shape wood on big machines and power tools, a little bit of wood dust is inevitable.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Exactly! If your shop is super clean, you probably aren't getting much work done! I have a full size 3 HP cyclone separator with 6 inch runs to all my machines and it still doesn't pick up 100% of everything.
Successful dust collection starts at the tool, using effective shrouds. Once a particle is a 3-6 inches away from the dust collection aperture then it won't be picked up.
Most shops make Friday afternoon the cleanup time, open the doors, turn on the vacs and blow down all surfaces starting at the top - also lets you examine all areas for any excessive build up and general issues like compressor oil leaks etc. Obviously it's a maintenance system that gets tweaked to suit the individual shop and situation but you get the idea. Shop vacs are for the immediate situation as you work, whole of shop cleaning is an ongoing process as cutting wood creates a lot of waste even with the most carefully piped extraction systems...
I dont have a dust extraction system yet. I'm thinking of either the Festool CTL Midi or the Nilfisk AERO 26-2L PC. The system you built on top of your vac looks so handy, though, that it may tilt the scale in favor of the Festool.
im not familiar with the nilfisk brand, there is a big price difference between them and the ctl midi! im sure sure you could fit a cyclone to the nilfisk as well. if it is permanently for the workshop the record power dx range is very good and if on a budget the rutlands dk7109 is actually not bad but very noisey. the ctl midi is great for high suction and low noise, also automatic when using power tools.
I own a Nilfisk and I am looking at Festool as the filtering on the Nilfisk is pretty rubbish for fine dust particals, I have already had to replace a motor. I normally run it with a cyclone but not all the time as it depends what I am working with tool wise as to whether I can use it or not.
@@Simon_W74 After considering the Nilfisk mentioned above (with dust collection class L, which also filters small wood particles), I decided on the Festool. The price difference was like a hundred bucks. The Nilfisk isn't bad but the Festool (also class L) has some additional convenience features which made it worth it. Some minor remarks: I already built the dust collection as shown in this video but I used a plastic barrel instead. Con, it implodes at half speed setting of the vacuum, pro, it doesn't completely break when it implodes. I'm going to improve the stability of the barrel with a wooden cross later.
I've had a Nilfisk Aero 26 for about 3 years and it's been brilliant, great suction and 100% reliable. It's only class L though, but if you want finer filtration they do an M-class HEPA filter for it. At the price it's a steal.
I made it myself but it has some problems, i think the air feed pipe is too small or the capacity too large as when the sawdust burns away it burns from underneath and creates a cavity leaving the walls quite high with sawdust, and if that collapses it starts pulsing like mad and firing sparks everywhere! ima probably line the inside with refractory to reduce the capacity, i cant stand near it when it is at full tilt so it will help with that too
hey Stephen. really nice work on this! its the best DIY (or nonDIY actually) solution i've seen. especially that you grounded it too - AMAZING! i'm about to buy a a midi for the workshop and am trying to decide whether i should pay a little more for the class M since they're such an expensive investment and there isn't a huge difference, but i'm worried that the suction detector on the M would flip out if i add a cyclone. do you happen to know if thats an issue with an M class?
Hi, base on my limited knowledge of the system i would say it is unlikely to affect it, my cyclone system shows little or no sign of changing the amount of suction so i think it would still be well within the limits of the m class suction detector. whether you need the m class though is another question, there is a helpful topic here on the difference on the M class vs L class- www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/dust-extraction-l-class-vs-m-class/
Why the copper tape? Doesn’t the metal bolts from the cheap Chinese part to the metal tin do the same thing? Overall good vids. You have a great sense of humor that the ASMR style of you vids really shows.
Wonderfully Heath-Robinson sawdust collector, Russ. And the dust is presumably fuel for heating your home? At leat the first try was a dress rehearsal for success too,.
it isnt epoxy unfortunately, still easy to clean though, the paint washes off at the slightest hint of moisture so any dirt that is stuck to it comes away as well!
I can imagine your disappointment, but I couldn't help laughing when the tin collapsed. Hope you can see it as a funny moment afterwards. Did you file a complaint with the paint factory?
I lined the inside of the heavy duty plastic barrel with glass-epoxy laminate and the lid with round plywood on the inside. No deformation since. Using a cyclone is a huge moneysaver, I change my pricy dustbags now only once a year or so instead of every few weeks.
Yes it has a tube to feed air directly into the bottom of the stove, the idea is you drop a pipe into the stove next to that air tube and then pack sawdust in and ram it in to pack it tight, then you remove the pipe and you have a kind of chimney running up through the saw dust with air being fed from the tube so that it burns from the middle outwards. it gets really hot really fast and will burn through about 80litres of saw dust in a few hours. just google sawdust stove, you will see lots of examples of this.
Hi, I just found your video on this. Made something similar with plastic bucket and my axminster dust extractor and it collapsed just the same. So given I am in n Yorkshire any chance you can share the source of your "scientifically" tested replacement?
some people don't like he sound of their voices on Audio! I am quite fortunate, that i have a voice for "Radio" or so i have been told when mic'd up at trade shows & demonstrating kit.
I remember science class when the teacher put a vacuum cleaner on a big tin can and sucked it into a crinkled mess. :-) My factory made cyclone has a vacuum relief valve with a spring. It opens if the hose gets blocked. Now I want to make a portable one like this and found your video while looking to RUclips to inspire me!
Ours just had a metal "belt" welded to it from the outside so it doesnt get sucked into itself
I made a vacum cleaner with a big 500kilo air blower and it sucked a truck full of corn in minutes
All of Your works and ability to find solutions is truly worthy of respect. Nice to watch it.
It's good to see that you share your 'ups & downs'. Great end result & very clever work with the copper tape. Don from South Aust.
You have a great sense of humor.
Great to see you showing your mistakes and learning from them. Nice job , now I have to make myself one.
I had the same issue with one of those industrial blue thick plastic barrels. If I left all the blast gates closed it would collapse. I made a wooden cruciform to go inside as a support which cured it.
I had the same issue and CNC'd four rings that were split in quarters so I could get them in and glue in place.
Looks quite familiar! I bought one of them after seeing all sorts of videos on RUclips and tried it with a wall chaser. Brick dust clogs up bags long before they're full, so in theory you want a vacuum with self-cleaning filter and those are bloody expensive! My first attempt was with a plastic bucket, which got crushed fairly quickly. I then progressed to an old steel bucket with an improvised timber lid (held in place and sealed with duck tape of course), which worked reasonably well. After half an hour or so I started getting clouds of dust from the chaser though and went back to just a kango. Suction still seemed fine so I guess the walls might have been different.
My Karcher has 32 mm accessories I think, so I had to get creative with the plumbing, relying on plenty of "flexible silver universal adaptors" (as my brother nicely referred to duck tape) and two half-litre PET bottles.
Nice. I have somewhat the same thought. I haven't done anything with my Festool vacuum, but have one of those "dust deputies" on my more basic shop vac. Problem with the Dust Deputy, it is sort of cumbersome to move around. I do have a larger Vacuum unit, (cyclone) that I generally use between most machines that I can't easily run piping to. But as we all know, using a portable for anything that really puts out shavings or dust, (like a planer or jointer) just means that you will have to empty bags often. So I built another permanent system for those machines where it pulls it outside to the big plywood box for dumping. (air return back inside thru filters so that it doesn't cool down the shop in the winter). With 200+ cubic feet of volume, I don't have to empty it as often... Nice work.
I was so relieved when you tested for continuity. would have been dissapointed otherwise 🤣 dude even turns the sound down for us when jigsawing metal, kudos.
My favorite part was when the screen flashed "Ouroboros" for just a split second while the vacuum cleaner was cleaning itself...You are my kind of funny. Great work. All around.
It was the scientific testing that made the fully engieered improvements :) :) :) just shows what a good vac the Festool is over most other shop vac's. Love the vid.
Hi I made the same set up some years ago and had the collapsing Tin Problem, I found a useful Safty valve Idea on the New Brit Workshop. Peter made a magnetic safety valve from a jamjar lid. I havent had any problems since I copied this little helper and I use it every day. I also have a few other cyclones from Clear view which work very well. Better than the cheap one I have.
ill check it out thanks
big thumbs up for earthing the cyclone! never saw someone do that and its so important
@@EaterOfBaconSandwiches There were plenty of metal screws through the plastic, that provide a focus for the static to discharge without arcing. Even one earthed point in that tiny volume would do the job, especially at those flow rates.
Красава, парень. Отличная идея заземлить пылесос, от статического электричества вся проблема этого китайского циклона. У многих он плохо работал.
Есть еще плоская конструкция. При ней получается большая тяга при меньших габаритах.
Had a good chuckle at the worm Ouroboros eating its own tail!
I built a similar system in my shop years ago. Your Festool is WAY to powerful for such a small cyclone, the wood shavings just get sucked through the system before they have room to settle. I tested mine with a weaker vacuum and it worked great. Then I got a larger cyclone and it worked well with my more powerful vacuum.
First of all, in an ocean of American videos (not necessarily a criticism), anything with 'Yorkshire' in the name has to be worth a watch.
Secondly, your skills and step-by-step how-to, laced with humour, was great fun to watch. I'm about to buy a dust extractor (was swithering about Festool but they are *soooo* expensive...) I was wondering about making a cyclone. And here you are. And here I am, learning and laughing.
I've had a peak at your blog also and already, despite the recent start, it's clear you have a *lot* of things to show us and skills to demonstrate. Can't wait to see what's coming...
Thanks for posting and please keep them coming. Regards from far north of the Wall.
thank you!
Great job, thanks for sharing the fails and successes too.
I think I just found the answer to the malfunctioning of my cyclone. Thanks man. Great videos. I subbed!
great video, nice to see you address the grounding as a lot of people miss that.
I made something very similar, which now sits next to my Numatic Henry. I found I had to fit a vacuum relief valve that opens to let air into the cyclobe if the intake gets blocked. This does two things, it keeps the air rotation going inside the cyclone , which stops things getting sucked through into the vac and it stops the vac from sucking the big dust container flat.
When I taught woodwork we had a built in set up which sucked stuff into a big bag held over a wire mesh frame. Bag kept popping in through the holes and bursting inwards. So we bought a galvanized steel dustbin. Ever seen a full sized dustbin sucked flat? We did.
Was it tricky to fit or was it a case of buying a valve, drilling a hole and sealing it in ?
@@ianelley Nope its a box with a spring loaded flap that sits on top of the cyclone.
@@donaldasayers All you need is a minor second hole on the vacuum hose (not to big to deminish vacuum power)...ever seen a household vacuum...they all have a passive hole on the end of the hose to let air in when intake is blocked
@@sky3189 Our Dyson has a spring loaded flap valve.
Glad this worked I purchased one of the smaller ones for my media blaster. Glad to know I didn't waste my money. Thanks for sharing! Thumbs Up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
That was very clever and nicely done. Fixing the fail was useful to watch.
Frank Howarth once made a cyclone in plywood. Not only it looks fine but it also works extraordinarily well.
Great video, great presentation (no music+subtitled). Thanks for your contribution!
I hope you considered adding a plastic bag to line the blue can, making sawdust removal easier. Thanks for sharing this video. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Cheers.
The plastic bag would get sucked up into the vacuum - don't ask me how I know - The Festool unit has a tube running into the base of the barrel to hold the bag down
This man will survive the Thunderdome
Saw your sawdust turd maker first, it's nice to see a continual line of progression
Sorry I keep hitting the send when I want to back space. Ingenious invention. You are amazing.
Thank you for going over the grounding setup.
thanks. ive had some pretty good jolts from ungrounded vacs, especially when pvc is involved as it creates a lot of static. can be quite dangerous when holding spinning death blades and router cutters!
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop thanks for this insight: never knew how those little shocks were generated or how to cure them.
At industry level, grounding of cyclones is done to prevent sparking (prevent dust explosion) and at the same time it solves the risk for shocks. As an electrician, I would add a screw and washer to clamp and connect the end of the metal strip on the lid of the vessel. Because the glue from the strip is most probably not a reliable conductor.
It's nice to see others having redoes like me. "I don't want to spend too much time on this" so I end up spending twice as much.
I tried using a blue plastic tub and put a hinged brace inside to stop it collapsing. I soon got fed up of that and made a large "systainer" shaped box out of some old oak headboards that you always have laying around. The lid is removable and sealed using some epdm door seal and it is complete with brass door handles to facilitate lifting both the lid and also the whole unit although I do lift the whole unit from the bottom if I'm taking it up and down stairs. The screw on plastic sustainer feet I bought just weren't strong enough so I made them out of aluminium. It's bit heavy but at least it doesn't collapse.
@13:16 my man just hot wired the neighbors car remotely.
I've found that the amount of airflow through the cyclone dramatically affects the efficiency of the separation of materials and air. That vacuum moves a lot of air. You could try to vent the suction side a little bit with perhaps an adjustable vent and get better material separation but it is at the expense of the vacuum suction at the business end.
Laughed so hard at the drum collapsing...
Cracking vid Russ. Thinking of doing similar for my workshop as tired of emptying and cleaning filters every few days. Note to self is buy a rigid collector lol😂.
I got the same one and it works GREAT
At the collapsing tin stage it seems to me that you didn't have a bag in the vac; could this have contributed to the problem?
Impressed by your idea of using the FS locking tabs to retain the ply base.
I added a clear sight glass on mine. Great job that👍
I like your Videos and your humor, I wish the subtitles would be in place for a little bit longer...
@@arlingtonhynes We dreamed of 'avin a swamp....
Dave yourself, grizzly tools makes great collectors and associated fittings/accessories,
you can add check valve for water on top, so that there is no creasing of the barrel
"Can" I have the old tin?
Good to see you are on the learning curve :) :)
9:00 I've done exactly the same years ago...i feel with you ^^
Had the same problem with a plastic barrel, made a wooden box in the end and the cyclone fits inside box when not in use.
I like your videos but I’m always amazed by the amount of dust on everything in your shop. Festool Vacs are great for tool dust collection but I don’t think it’s going to handle your shop!
yeah well it is a wood working shop so all day long 6 days a week i almost exclusively do things like cut wood and sand wood and shape wood on big machines and power tools, a little bit of wood dust is inevitable.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Exactly! If your shop is super clean, you probably aren't getting much work done! I have a full size 3 HP cyclone separator with 6 inch runs to all my machines and it still doesn't pick up 100% of everything.
Successful dust collection starts at the tool, using effective shrouds. Once a particle is a 3-6 inches away from the dust collection aperture then it won't be picked up.
Most shops make Friday afternoon the cleanup time, open the doors, turn on the vacs and blow down all surfaces starting at the top - also lets you examine all areas for any excessive build up and general issues like compressor oil leaks etc. Obviously it's a maintenance system that gets tweaked to suit the individual shop and situation but you get the idea. Shop vacs are for the immediate situation as you work, whole of shop cleaning is an ongoing process as cutting wood creates a lot of waste even with the most carefully piped extraction systems...
Could you please give us a follow up video on this table build? Tell us how your method worked and what, if any, problems that you had...
I dont have a dust extraction system yet. I'm thinking of either the Festool CTL Midi or the Nilfisk AERO 26-2L PC. The system you built on top of your vac looks so handy, though, that it may tilt the scale in favor of the Festool.
im not familiar with the nilfisk brand, there is a big price difference between them and the ctl midi! im sure sure you could fit a cyclone to the nilfisk as well. if it is permanently for the workshop the record power dx range is very good and if on a budget the rutlands dk7109 is actually not bad but very noisey. the ctl midi is great for high suction and low noise, also automatic when using power tools.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Thank you, I'm gonna check them out.
I own a Nilfisk and I am looking at Festool as the filtering on the Nilfisk is pretty rubbish for fine dust particals, I have already had to replace a motor. I normally run it with a cyclone but not all the time as it depends what I am working with tool wise as to whether I can use it or not.
@@Simon_W74 After considering the Nilfisk mentioned above (with dust collection class L, which also filters small wood particles), I decided on the Festool. The price difference was like a hundred bucks. The Nilfisk isn't bad but the Festool (also class L) has some additional convenience features which made it worth it.
Some minor remarks: I already built the dust collection as shown in this video but I used a plastic barrel instead. Con, it implodes at half speed setting of the vacuum, pro, it doesn't completely break when it implodes. I'm going to improve the stability of the barrel with a wooden cross later.
I've had a Nilfisk Aero 26 for about 3 years and it's been brilliant, great suction and 100% reliable. It's only class L though, but if you want finer filtration they do an M-class HEPA filter for it. At the price it's a steal.
Great job and brilliant video mate 👍🏼
I open the garage door, turn my Titan shop vac on reverse and blow the whole lot out into the lane and woods beyond. The neighbours love me.
Thanks for the video
Parts on order
Can I ask about your wood burner as been looking for a solution for sawdust burners for my workshop
I made it myself but it has some problems, i think the air feed pipe is too small or the capacity too large as when the sawdust burns away it burns from underneath and creates a cavity leaving the walls quite high with sawdust, and if that collapses it starts pulsing like mad and firing sparks everywhere! ima probably line the inside with refractory to reduce the capacity, i cant stand near it when it is at full tilt so it will help with that too
Very cool build you got me thinking thanks
Where did you buy the steel drum? Thanks. Glad it works. I like how compact you made it.
Funny when people use dust separators as shop vacs. But, the mod does seem to make two tools out of one.
Great job like all the other ones. Btw, where did you buy the blue barrel? Any references?
hey Stephen. really nice work on this! its the best DIY (or nonDIY actually) solution i've seen. especially that you grounded it too - AMAZING!
i'm about to buy a a midi for the workshop and am trying to decide whether i should pay a little more for the class M since they're such an expensive investment and there isn't a huge difference, but i'm worried that the suction detector on the M would flip out if i add a cyclone. do you happen to know if thats an issue with an M class?
Hi, base on my limited knowledge of the system i would say it is unlikely to affect it, my cyclone system shows little or no sign of changing the amount of suction so i think it would still be well within the limits of the m class suction detector.
whether you need the m class though is another question, there is a helpful topic here on the difference on the M class vs L class- www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/dust-extraction-l-class-vs-m-class/
In Germany we say „unsachgemäßer Gebrauch“ meaning „inproper use“
@Blimey Crikey I think he was in ironic mode. ;) But otherwise it should be well known that we germans have no sense for humor.
Nice work! I've been thinking about buying a CT 15 and adapting a cyclone to it. Where did you buy the heavy duty tin?
Probably ebay
Why the copper tape? Doesn’t the metal bolts from the cheap Chinese part to the metal tin do the same thing? Overall good vids. You have a great sense of humor that the ASMR style of you vids really shows.
Wonderfully Heath-Robinson sawdust collector, Russ. And the dust is presumably fuel for heating your home? At leat the first try was a dress rehearsal for success too,.
hi nice done what about the power before with out cyclone and after with cyclone
i didnt notice any difference.
you have the same red epoxy flooring as in my shop/garage, i hate it but it is easy to clean :)
it isnt epoxy unfortunately, still easy to clean though, the paint washes off at the slightest hint of moisture so any dirt that is stuck to it comes away as well!
Fifty canadian bucks and you get the same stuff with a 5 gallon bucket as an option.
No need to sweat or make any efforts.
Anyways, well done!
Great vid, I'm setting mine up tomorrow 👍
really nice,thanks.
If it's not been mentioned, look up 'Cyclone Pressure Release Valve'.
How many watts is the vacuum cleaner?
Great job mate (I'm English too) 👍
Some inner tube for bycycle tyres is really good for a better fitment
good idea!
I can imagine your disappointment, but I couldn't help laughing when the tin collapsed. Hope you can see it as a funny moment afterwards. Did you file a complaint with the paint factory?
Great video. Thanks. Subscribed!
Cool, but I bet an Oneida would have been cheaper and less hassle!
Amazing
I've got the same problem with the barrel collapsing.
I lined the inside of the heavy duty plastic barrel with glass-epoxy laminate and the lid with round plywood on the inside. No deformation since. Using a cyclone is a huge moneysaver, I change my pricy dustbags now only once a year or so instead of every few weeks.
is that a footplate speed adjustable disc sander?!
haven't you now become a potential parallel earth for the Festool?
Ourobouros!! Good one. Slightly obscure.
Alan Smith yes, came to comments to see if anyone else caught that. Brilliant!
If you were a Red Dwarf fan you would have got that right away. Appreciate a bit of humour in skills videos.
não seria melhor fazer um anel de borracha e colocar entre o separador ciclônico e a tampa?
Fantastic!
How do you open the barrel? Do you just put the upper pipe segment together without glue?
the pipes are all connected to the lid so you just pull the main upright out of the vac
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Okay, thanks
Where did you order the metal drum from? I’m after something similar but can only find huge ones.
hete you go mate. it is the 25l www.bigdug.co.uk/storage-boxes-containers-c363/bulk-storage-containers-c789/open-top-steel-drums-p14456
Wow looks like a Vauxhall Corsa air filter
🤣🤣🤣 A mi se me rajo el ciclón era exacto al tuyo si te sirve de consuelo 😊😊😊EXCELENTE MAESTRO GRACIAS POR ENSEÑARLO : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - ) : - )
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Where did you get the paint tin? I've got a plastic bucket but it keeps collapsing....
I've just found the container on ebay, has yours collapsed at all? I dont want to spend 30 quid on another container that isn't suitable.
it was from big dug, is that the one you found? no it hasnt collapsed it is rock solid.
Is that a special wood stove for burning sawdust?
Yes it has a tube to feed air directly into the bottom of the stove, the idea is you drop a pipe into the stove next to that air tube and then pack sawdust in and ram it in to pack it tight, then you remove the pipe and you have a kind of chimney running up through the saw dust with air being fed from the tube so that it burns from the middle outwards. it gets really hot really fast and will burn through about 80litres of saw dust in a few hours. just google sawdust stove, you will see lots of examples of this.
Hi, I just found your video on this. Made something similar with plastic bucket and my axminster dust extractor and it collapsed just the same. So given I am in n Yorkshire any chance you can share the source of your "scientifically" tested replacement?
here you go mate www.bigdug.co.uk/storage-boxes-containers-c363/bulk-storage-containers-c789/open-top-steel-drums-p14456
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop thank you.
9:26 that's why i use plastic bucket!
must be thick, some people have to reinforce them
This is an old video - buit just wanted to point out - use a plastic paint tin :D
where did you buy the can ?
thank you
bigdug.co.uk
lol don’t get it any shopvack does the same thing ? Lid snaps off A d all .
Excellent video. Can you leave text up for longer pls. 👍
will do! thanks.
love the troubleshooting and problem solving. but, I feel you were working a little too hard! :-) great job
there really wast anything hard about it
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop that's good; I've seen similar with fewer parts; but, the proof is in the pudding. nothing in the bag means you nailed it
Why dont festool offer this as a $1500 optional extra…..
Actually. 50mm connectors are really 55mm…
for outdoor furniture plan .
Cyclones are not 100% effective. The smallest stuff gets past the cyclone into the vacuum.
Great video and I like your content and humour. I do think a mic and you talking over it even just in post would elevate it further though!
some people don't like he sound of their voices on Audio! I am quite fortunate, that i have a voice for "Radio" or so i have been told when mic'd up at trade shows & demonstrating kit.
One of the things I love is no natter.
I just bought one all in and went to work instead if making it and saved a fortune in time this money. 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Third time's the charm