It was maybe the third "Admire", I started chuckling at your demeanor and commenting. It just got better as time went! You don't try to imitate others (like so many others that try to be Derek Bieri). This is some good stuff.
Thank you! It’s funny because people have commented before and said “yOuRe JuST LiKe VgG” several times… I just don’t see it. Like, I’m also working on old cars? Sure, I’ve said a couple of his silly things here and there. I watch his stuff! I inherit mannerisms easily. Thanks for watching - I really appreciate it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Uh uhhhh, YOUR mannerisms are authentic and original. I don't see any Derek Bieri overlay in your personality. In fact, yours is closer to the Professor Sherman and Peabody vibe from the old Bullwinkle cartoons...in a sort of motorheaded way, of course.
I'm revisiting this again...... I don't want to forget where I came from.😂😂 Where it all started. A saturday morning making biscuits and gravy, and this video pops up... The rest is history.
Very excellent video, I have never really worked on these old Chrysler’s but I very much appreciate the content and presentation. You do a very entertaining job!
Just so glad they've kept it as original as they have. We already have too much junk on the road and seeing these old classics almost original is terrific!
Two DDG highlights for me on this episode. The "whoopsie" after the smoking starter and "When life hands you lemons, get a bigger crowbar". Honorable mention goes to the struggling noises while attempting to turn the crank lol. Geez Louise that is a neat old car.
Around the year I was born my Dad owned one of these. My brother was in elementary school then and he remembers Dad taking him to school in it. They never had a camera back then so we have no pictures of it. My brother said one time Dad put tar on the roof to seal leaks and painted the car black again with a brush. We really like seeing yours. Good luck!
After serving in the South Pacific during WW2, my dad bought a '34 like this one at a used car lot on Livernois Avenue in Detroit for $200 just before Christmas of '45. It didn't run so he brought his tool box & "tune-up parts" & got it running. The Plymouth served him well until he bought a new Hawaiian bronze '50 Ford sedan in late '49. Great memories.
Bonded Auto in Ellsworth Maine will rebuild that Starter and Wilkerson in Arkansas will fix that temperature gauge. Never fail to find the professionals when you need them.
It wasn’t my car and was already bought and on its way to California. It just took a quick detour through the channel so I could try and get it running. Makes transportation easier too. I have a local rebuilder for starters and alternators. Wouldn’t have been a problem if time wasn’t a factor.
I learned a long time ago, high school auto-mechanics class, that it is best to use high gear when pulling a vehicle to start the engine. Not overdrive but the high direct one to one gear if possible. Why? It is easiest on the engine when forcing it to turn over, to use the gear ration that allows it to turn slower like a starter would turn it normally. Try pulling a naturally lower geared farm tractor off in first gear, it is not good. High gear is asking the engine to barely turn at super low speeds, just like the starter would turn it over slowly. Works best that way.
My dad (his mother and brother) drove a '35 Plymouth convertible ($35 in 1948!) from Duluth, Minnesota (AND BACK) with NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS (a FANTASTIC accomplishment "in the day") and HE LOVED OLD MoPars! So do I!
What a beauty, you should always press the clutch in while starting so you don't have to waist battery by turning over the trans. I have a 34 deluxe, love it. Cheers.
@@johnmaki3046 Just 1934 is special, it has separate front suspension, in 1935 they went back to beam suspension, my car was ordered special and has central oiling, rear defrost wires in the glass, 2 speed rear axle, free wheeling, and a vacuum clutch. Quite amazing for 1934. Cheers.
First car 1936 Plymouth 4door. Second was a 1933 Plymouth like yours.Everything was neat and clean inside. Engine blew a cylinder on the way home.Put in another engine front junk yard. Ran good. You talk like I do. Helps to work through the job at hand.
Love that 34 and the suicide doors. It runs well and looks so good driving. I found a 35 rumble seat business coupe in the woods and had a 55 flat six dodge w/4sp to put in it but while I was trying to get owner permission to remove it somebody just took it Darn it! Did get drivers half of hood and head light ring for all that is worth.
Wow. That’s a story… shame someone else got your chance. I really want one of these now. I started out a muscle car guy, but as I’ve gotten a bit older I’ve gained a lot of appreciation for these older cars.
These old Plymouth are awesome it should have a 4 cly flathead j think 35 was the 6 cly ive got 2 1930 Plymouth and they are great thanks for the video I really appreciate it do some more on these 30s cars
That much grunt would involve a ton of upgrades all around whereas may I suggest a 273 would serve admirably and you could probably get away with leaving much of the vehicle original?
My Dad Bought me a 34 Dodge 2 door Sedan in 1950 and it had the strongest motor ever, I drove the heck out of that car and the Dodge never gave up....I was so much smoother than my previous ride, a 1933 Chevy, I wore the Babbitt out of the Rod Bearing's constantly with the General Motors scoop Oiling system, The Dodge had an Oil Pump and Oil Pressure.....Chevrolet didn't have a Full Oil Pressure engine until 1954 when I bought my first New car (BelAire) I could drive that at 75 MPH all Day Long (Two Speed Power Glide) I installed a split Exhaust manifold and a Dual Rochester carburetor's intake manifold ( GM had this Option available for Mexico City Taxicabs) and was Factory installed in the 1953 Corvette "Blue Flame" engine.......
Never worked on any of these , but old guy I worked with in eighties said that new engine parts were still available. That Chrysler made industrial engines for the oil patch which were identical
Awesome car! I had a neighbor who had one of these 34's it was a fenderless hotrod built in the 60's sadly it had a 327 Chevy small block. I tried to buy or trade for it several times, back in 1979-84 before I moved away, if I could have acquired it I would've put a Chrysler engine in it! I kept my eye on it for years, it ended up sitting in a barn and finally disappeared after the owner passed away, I never could find out where it went to from there. I like all brands of old cars, but I've never liked mixing drive lines, it's always been all Chrysler or all Chevy or all Ford for me.
Dang, that’s cool though. Same. And as much as I love the flathead six, all I could think was what an awesome a hotrod it would be with an angry small block Mopar and a four speed.
Shortly before my dad went into the Army in WWII, he had a 33 Plymputh coupe and its engine blew. Since engines were hard to find during the war it was a do what you can with what you can find situation. Grandpa owned a junkyard, and had a Ford ton and a half truck with a straight 6 come in that had been totalled out so dad pulled its engine and transmission and shoehorned it into the Plymouth after cutting the firewall to get it in. He said he had to change the 2 rear sparkplugs from inside the car.
@@DeadDodgeGarage He was able to put the extra torque of the truck engine to use once he added heavier leaf springs to the rear. THAT combination allowed him to utilize the space in the trunk to haul a larger quantity of a certain liquid cargo.
This entire channel is designed for, by, and dedicated to the guys that can't do body and paint 🙂 If I had been lucky enough to buy this '34, I never would have painted it. I also never would have swapped in a bunch of unnecessary horsepower. A car like that is something that you basically can't find - it's almost 90 years old now, and still mostly original. It would have been nice to have a period correct flathead that a starter actually fit around. Otherwise, I enjoyed the hell out of it as it is!
@@DeadDodgeGarage come on, with all the guys doing tutorials, if you have some tools, your time is cheap. You're never too old to learn a new skill. You might not put out a Riddler car, but you can spiff it up s bit. Nothing wrong with shiney. 😁 Besides, Dan from DD Speed Shop did an awesome job laying down a tractor paint paint job on his '57 Chevy roadster. Like he says, sandpaper is cheap. Now paint, not so much. 😁 You got good content, keep it up.
Jealous as f%*k, love that body style. Would take that over a 32 Ford any day of the week. Starters!!! '80 Powerwagon 360 with headers. Big block starter, tight confines. That's a sweet ride any way you look at it
My Late Grandfather worked for Plymouth. Engineering on Easter Sunday 1932. Worked for Cadillac since they started then 1 week for Fords. He tried telling Henry his ideas. He was NOT having it. Edsel listened. Even this he was the President of Fords. Dad said No ! So he took his idea to Plymouth/ DeSoto and built and out sold Ford ! .
Back in those days alcohol was used for antifreeze in place of ethylene glycol and as the alcohol would evaporate it would leave only the water which would sometimes freeze and bust the blocks so people were expected to drain them if they were gonna sit for a long time. And that plug is the lowest point on the engine.Should be one like it on the bottom of the radiator too
Interesting. I haven’t heard that. The plug is the lowest point in the water jackets, yes. There is a plug in the bottom of the radiator - and it was very much open, which I suppose I should’ve expected. I only made a small lake of antifreeze.
I saw someone doing essentially that in a video during this debacle. I had swapped armature for a much better, less burned looking unit out of one of the other starters. It really didn’t help at all… neither did resurfacing the brushes, or swapping the case windings. That actually made it worse.
Good video. Our Dodge flathead 6 was also an issue when it came to the starter. I converted to 12 volts, and the original starter was working ... until it wasn't. I listened to several people who insisted that 12 volts was okay to give a 6 volt starter. They're wrong. Had trouble finding a replacement, so we had the old one rebuilt, and it failed instantly. Vic's Dodge Garage had it rewired for 12 volts for us, and it's good. Was this flathead engine built into the 12 volt era? And if so, do 12 volt versions exist in the parts market? Are there any starters available for this motor? Just wondering if you or anybody out there might know?
Yes, there are later 12 volt starters. The 12 volt system and the flathead overlapped for 4-5 years, at least. 12v came around ‘56, and the flathead was still in trucks at least in ‘61. It may have lasted even longer than that. Whether those later starters will fit your application or not, I can’t say for sure. Some 6v starters jive better on 12v than others. Yes, there are differences. My Power Wagon starts really well with the original 6v starter run on 12v, and I have definitely abused it to test the theory… my ‘55 Plymouth starter lived a pretty long and happy life too - but eventually it did check out.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the reply. I don't mean to beat a dead horse. On the fitment issue, I figure I could convert to key-start by changing the ignition switch and add a starter solenoid no problem. I assume that the flanges/ bolt patterns would be the same? And for the longshot, could a starter from another engine fit. Like a slant 6 unit possibly? Has anyone tried any of these possibilities? Just wondering thanks! Enjoying your content.
@@bkrefting5225 I don’t think there is any fitment interchange with slant or newer engines. There are different generations within the decades of flathead production where the tooth count on the flywheel and starter changed, so you’ll want to verify you are working with compatible pieces. I’m really not as big on this earlier stuff, but I’ve done some reading over the years. Many people have eliminated the mechanical start button and converted to key start without issue. Nice way to go. I’m not sure if this works for your application specifically, but for the 46+ Power Wagon, there is a conversion starter available. Might fit what you’ve got going on.
One must "ALWAYS" place Transmission into synchronized gear before trying to engage low or reverse, to stop the motion of the gear train. Seems this trait was lost on people who failed to learn to drive "Real Machinery"
Funny, I always do that on my NP435-equipped trucks with non synchronized first. I also bump my 833-equipped Demon into first (synchronized) before reverse for this reason - but not because of an inherent design issue with engaging the non synchronized reverse gear. The clutch or pilot bearing seems to drag in that car. Most four speeds, and indeed manual transmissions in general DO NOT have synchronized reverse gears, and DO NOT require this. On this three speed, third gear might be synchronized? Second isn’t. I do not do this on the non synchronized 1&2 four speed in my Power Wagon, and it does not grind like this. So I’m going to have to say that “ALWAYS” is, as with many rules, more of a suggestion.
Did you catch the comment on my Volare video where the commenter asked me to leave in all of the Mopar starter cranking sounds because he loves them and they’re the best part?
I don’t know the owner’s intentions, but I for one would leave it as it is, but reassemble the interior, find a starter that works, and enjoy it. Alright, and replace the missing roof.
My '36 Plymouth (original 201 engine, 116000 miles) will start if you pull the choke out all the way, then push it in as you step on the starter pedal. (It has an electric fuel pump).
Noice. My ‘48 Power Wagon fires right up with the choke pulled out if it has run in the last day or two. It has its original mechanical pump so longer than that requires some cranking. I do usually have to leave it around half choke for a bit. The carb is kind of finicky.
I understand. I have had thoughts about that. I try to give a teaser of what’s coming in each video so people know what to expect, but it does spoil the surprise on something like this.
I think you’ll mostly be ok - those are both 230s and similar enough. As long as you’re using original bellhousing and flywheel you’ll be fine. We ended up using no starter at all… what was in it was the M37/ Power Wagon type unit with a ton of the case ground off.
Stirring in an assortment of 6 , 12 , and 24 volt civilian and military starter parts makes success almost as probable as winning the power ball without purchasing a ticket.
Jumping out of first? In my experience it has been caused by either a bad pilot bearing (most likely) or the bearings inside the input shaft, where the main shaft is supported. Could possibly be the ball bearing on the input shaft, but it would be worn by problems with the other two.
Because of the manual foot lever, I was able to adjust the gear engagement position, negating any possible need for shims. Because the bolts run horizontally, shims can’t move it away from the flywheel teeth, just in and out. But I do think I tried cranking with the starter partially loose and cocked at an angle to adjust the gear mesh.
This might sound like a “Mister Obvious” question, but did you pour any oil or penetrant down those spark plug holes before you put the old plugs back in? I sure hope so…
No. The car ran recently enough that the gas in the tank still smelled good. It’s fine. In any case, I basically never do that. When new engines are breaking in and mating to cylinders, an excess of oil is bad. The two metal surfaces wearing on each other is paramount to a good break in. Why would this be any different on a worn engine? If rings are stuck in pistons, well, we’re going to have a bad time either way - and the likelihood of me getting them loosened up with some snake oil is pretty low. Heat, on the other hand… that might do it.
Que version economica ,sin guantera ni cenicero y tablero negro, de ser mod. PG .En argentina los combinaron en versiones ,nosotros tubimos un P E muy lindo en los 50.👏
I love the Plymouth like my grandpa says about new cars no brain no headache that's true about all cars I was teasing this kid with a hot rod he was bragging about how new cars have one coil per cylinder I said that's Model T technology he thought it was nuts till I looked it up you got fooled thanks
We strongly suspected that. There were definitely different tooth counts and flywheel arrangements used over the years, and the starter was definitely much newer than the car or engine.
Not sure if you did the bushings in the ends of the starter as that drag ever so slight will stop the parade. Your attempts have merit but until that starter whirels like a outhouse door handle its going to drag and not start from just drawing so much juice from the system that the points will not be enough
Interesting. I didn’t notice any drag there, but I also wasn’t explicitly looking for it. I did clean the bushings and commutator bushing surfaces. Keep in mind, I have never rebuilt a starter before. I keep a pile of 60s/70s Mopar starters around. We had a pile of these units too, but they were essentially all bad.
@@DeadDodgeGarage If there is any slack in the end bushings, especially the flywheel end, it will keep the starter from turning freely. Hence that grinding sound. New ones back in the day were around a dollar but now I guess finding one, maybe napa or O'reilly's could find one, if ya find them, change both ends if possible and use some vaseline for lube. I did starters in my shop for years and everything could get fairly tired, but keeping those bushings tight was a good ticket
I like old dodges. I’m also project poor and not interested in anything that’s far from me in the Pacific Northwest… but it would be cool to know what’s out there 😁
@@Scott-e6p7z I would love to know more about cars from this time. I really bonded with this Plymouth. It was awesome. RUclips comments don't allow attaching photos. Sometimes links work - but sometimes they don't.
Yes… and potentially. Really good project car. No drivetrain. Located in olympia, WA. If you are seriously interested, contact me at jamienoise@gmail.com and I will put you in touch with the owner, Tom. It will not be dirt cheap - but reasonable.
You probably already know this, but breaking your points with a screwdriver is not a “real world” situation. Your screwdriver is doing the grounding and ungrounding. You have to clean the contacts and watch it throw spark from the center wire of the coil pulled out of the cab and held up against the block under the power of the starter to emulate a real world situation and from the sounds of that starter I wouldn’t grind it anymore than what’s absolutely necessary. A fly wheel would be a bear to put in that thing.
No, that isn’t correct. When the screwdriver bridges the metal back strap of the points to any metal on the other side (grounded,) then yes it creates a path to ground around the contacts. If the points are completely closed, opening them with the tip of a screwdriver (or whatever) without bridging the two sides does the same thing as cranking the engine - it removes the path to ground, causing the coil to collapse. No, this does not account for voltage drop caused by the starter, but it’s a moot point. That will always be there during cranking. What we want is a reliable path to ground through the points - which it did not have when I started, and did have when I was finished. I like to use a screwdriver for several reasons. If the points are closed, and you bridge them with a screwdriver but no sparks happen, you just learned that the points probably have continuity and are fine. It’s also really easy to test the coil this way.
It was maybe the third "Admire", I started chuckling at your demeanor and commenting. It just got better as time went! You don't try to imitate others (like so many others that try to be Derek Bieri). This is some good stuff.
Thank you! It’s funny because people have commented before and said “yOuRe JuST LiKe VgG” several times… I just don’t see it. Like, I’m also working on old cars? Sure, I’ve said a couple of his silly things here and there. I watch his stuff! I inherit mannerisms easily. Thanks for watching - I really appreciate it.
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@@DeadDodgeGarage ok
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@@DeadDodgeGarage Uh uhhhh, YOUR mannerisms are authentic and original. I don't see any Derek Bieri overlay in your personality.
In fact, yours is closer to the Professor Sherman and Peabody vibe from the old Bullwinkle cartoons...in a sort of motorheaded way, of course.
It's a beautiful car!! There is something special about 1930's depression era cars and trucks. The best looking cars and trucks ever in my opinion.
They were REAL AMERICAN QUALITY!
I'm revisiting this again...... I don't want to forget where I came from.😂😂 Where it all started. A saturday morning making biscuits and gravy, and this video pops up... The rest is history.
By far, the best 34 Plymouth revival video I've seen all day!!!
Very excellent video, I have never really worked on these old Chrysler’s but I very much appreciate the content and presentation. You do a very entertaining job!
COOL RIDE, I can't believe you got it running that well, HELL even getting it started by pulling it was, KRAZY.
I agree. I refused to give up. Haha. I love the car and was way too excited to hear it fire off.
It’s great to see a 34 coupe, that’s not a ford 👍🏻
That's so cool that nobody got rodded that and left it original.
What a sweet little coupe! I've got a couple of Studebakers from the same period
I am surprised nobody ever hot rodded that thing back in the 50s. It's been many years since I pop started a car. Great Job !
Just so glad they've kept it as original as they have. We already have too much junk on the road and seeing these old classics almost original is terrific!
Two DDG highlights for me on this episode. The "whoopsie" after the smoking starter and "When life hands you lemons, get a bigger crowbar". Honorable mention goes to the struggling noises while attempting to turn the crank lol. Geez Louise that is a neat old car.
Yes we’ve pretty much reached peak Dead Dodgeness with this one. Haha.
my dads first car was a 1938 Plymouth
Sweet old Plymouth! I’ve really gained admiration for the old original cars.
Me too. The older I get, the more appreciation I develop for even older stuff.
@@DeadDodgeGarage She's a beauty. love the patina too!! I agree as they has simplicity and just ran ! Not like the new cars!
GREAT CARS!
@@DeadDodgeGarageSame!!!
Awesome can-do attitude!!!! This is what Americans need to see ..never give up.🇺🇸🤠 Like your show!👍
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Around the year I was born my Dad owned one of these. My brother was in elementary school then and he remembers Dad taking him to school in it. They never had a camera back then so we have no pictures of it. My brother said one time Dad put tar on the roof to seal leaks and painted the car black again with a brush. We really like seeing yours. Good luck!
Awesome story. I wish this car was actually mine. I just love it. Thanks for watching!
I just found, and subscribed to your channel. I do Love me some old Dodges!! Keep them coming!
Nice seeing old bits of kit being bought back to life!.
You’ve more patience than a general hospital, 👍🏻 well done dodgy man 🇬🇧🤣
What a beautiful car. I can see putting a small block and 4 speed and leaving the body alone. What a classic ride.
After serving in the South Pacific during WW2, my dad bought a '34 like this one at a used car lot on Livernois Avenue in Detroit for $200 just before Christmas of '45. It didn't run so he brought his tool box & "tune-up parts" & got it running. The Plymouth served him well until he bought a new Hawaiian bronze '50 Ford sedan in late '49. Great memories.
Livernois and what cross road?
Bonded Auto in Ellsworth Maine will rebuild that Starter and Wilkerson in Arkansas will fix that temperature gauge. Never fail to find the professionals when you need them.
It wasn’t my car and was already bought and on its way to California. It just took a quick detour through the channel so I could try and get it running. Makes transportation easier too. I have a local rebuilder for starters and alternators. Wouldn’t have been a problem if time wasn’t a factor.
I learned a long time ago, high school auto-mechanics class, that it is best to use high gear when pulling a vehicle to start the engine. Not overdrive but the high direct one to one gear if possible. Why? It is easiest on the engine when forcing it to turn over, to use the gear ration that allows it to turn slower like a starter would turn it normally. Try pulling a naturally lower geared farm tractor off in first gear, it is not good. High gear is asking the engine to barely turn at super low speeds, just like the starter would turn it over slowly. Works best that way.
In the 1980s I had a 1933 Plymouth PC rumble seat coupe as my daily driver. It was easy to work on and keep reliable.
What a WONDERFUL car! I hope this is STILL AROUND!
Your perserverance paid off. Good job!
My dad (his mother and brother) drove a '35 Plymouth convertible ($35 in 1948!) from Duluth, Minnesota (AND BACK) with NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS (a FANTASTIC accomplishment "in the day") and HE LOVED OLD MoPars! So do I!
I love these 30's cars, rare here in Brazil, congrats.
Wish it was mine. Just loaded on a transport truck a couple days ago, headed for California.
What a beauty, you should always press the clutch in while starting so you don't have to waist battery by turning over the trans. I have a 34 deluxe, love it. Cheers.
WONDERFUL VEHICLES!
@@johnmaki3046 Just 1934 is special, it has separate front suspension, in 1935 they went back to beam suspension, my car was ordered special and has central oiling, rear defrost wires in the glass, 2 speed rear axle, free wheeling, and a vacuum clutch. Quite amazing for 1934. Cheers.
@@rockcrusher4636 I do NOT know what the "fine points" here are! They were GREAT cars, no matter!
First car 1936 Plymouth 4door. Second was a 1933 Plymouth like yours.Everything was neat and clean inside. Engine blew a cylinder on the way home.Put in another engine front junk yard. Ran good. You talk like I do. Helps to work through the job at hand.
Love that 34 and the suicide doors. It runs well and looks so good driving. I found a 35 rumble seat business coupe in the woods and had a 55 flat six dodge w/4sp to put in it but while I was trying to get owner permission to remove it somebody just took it Darn it! Did get drivers half of hood and head light ring for all that is worth.
Wow. That’s a story… shame someone else got your chance. I really want one of these now. I started out a muscle car guy, but as I’ve gotten a bit older I’ve gained a lot of appreciation for these older cars.
These old Plymouth are awesome it should have a 4 cly flathead j think 35 was the 6 cly ive got 2 1930 Plymouth and they are great thanks for the video I really appreciate it do some more on these 30s cars
I will as is possible! I really like them - but don’t see them often.
Flathead's sound so good 👍
Neat to see an old Chrysler coupe! Would be neat with a 340 V-8 or 440 V-8!😁🛠️
STILL LOVE THE "flathead 6", though! A motor THAT ALWAYS "did the job"!
If you don't like that engine but still want a inline 6 the 225/3.7 slant 6.
That much grunt would involve a ton of upgrades all around whereas may I suggest a 273 would serve admirably and you could probably get away with leaving much of the vehicle original?
My Dad Bought me a 34 Dodge 2 door Sedan in 1950 and it had the strongest motor ever, I drove the heck out of that car and the Dodge never gave up....I was so much smoother than my previous ride, a 1933 Chevy, I wore the Babbitt out of the Rod Bearing's constantly with the General Motors scoop Oiling system, The Dodge had an Oil Pump and Oil Pressure.....Chevrolet didn't have a Full Oil Pressure engine until 1954 when I bought my first New car (BelAire) I could drive that at 75 MPH all Day Long (Two Speed Power Glide) I installed a split Exhaust manifold and a Dual Rochester carburetor's intake manifold ( GM had this Option available for Mexico City Taxicabs) and was Factory installed in the 1953 Corvette "Blue Flame" engine.......
Never worked on any of these , but old guy I worked with in eighties said that new engine parts were still available. That Chrysler made industrial engines for the oil patch which were identical
This was back when "MoPar" WAS A PROUD EMBLEM! Not a "company" TRADED by billionaire ASSHOLES!
Awesome 👍 job guys great Find keep it running
Dang, that thing is cool as hell. Even I'm kinda sad that it's headed to California lol. Love the gauge cluster.
Man it sounds good give it wires plug super tune-up in a carb rebuild it will be ready to rock daily
I wish I could… I’d love to own and drive the thing. Unfortunately it’s headed to California.
Awesome car! I had a neighbor who had one of these 34's it was a fenderless hotrod built in the 60's sadly it had a 327 Chevy small block. I tried to buy or trade for it several times, back in 1979-84 before I moved away, if I could have acquired it I would've put a Chrysler engine in it! I kept my eye on it for years, it ended up sitting in a barn and finally disappeared after the owner passed away, I never could find out where it went to from there. I like all brands of old cars, but I've never liked mixing drive lines, it's always been all Chrysler or all Chevy or all Ford for me.
Dang, that’s cool though. Same. And as much as I love the flathead six, all I could think was what an awesome a hotrod it would be with an angry small block Mopar and a four speed.
@@DeadDodgeGarage 😊exactly!👍
Chrysler motors were FAR SUPERIOR "in the GLORY days""!
That car is so good
Shortly before my dad went into the Army in WWII, he had a 33 Plymputh coupe and its engine blew. Since engines were hard to find during the war it was a do what you can with what you can find situation. Grandpa owned a junkyard, and had a Ford ton and a half truck with a straight 6 come in that had been totalled out so dad pulled its engine and transmission and shoehorned it into the Plymouth after cutting the firewall to get it in. He said he had to change the 2 rear sparkplugs from inside the car.
Wow! That’s quite something.
@@DeadDodgeGarage He was able to put the extra torque of the truck engine to use once he added heavier leaf springs to the rear. THAT combination allowed him to utilize the space in the trunk to haul a larger quantity of a certain liquid cargo.
Very cool car. Thanks for sharing.
Really cool Mopars on your property!!!
Some good ones on mine too - but this video was filmed at Rocket Restorations where I work. There’s cool stuff everywhere around there…
These can be temperamental at times but they are a real joy to drive
Good looking car!!
SHINY (SPITINA is for guys that can't do body & paint! 😁) black paint, , 360, 4-Speed, freshen up the wire wheels, enjoy! 😁
This entire channel is designed for, by, and dedicated to the guys that can't do body and paint 🙂 If I had been lucky enough to buy this '34, I never would have painted it. I also never would have swapped in a bunch of unnecessary horsepower. A car like that is something that you basically can't find - it's almost 90 years old now, and still mostly original. It would have been nice to have a period correct flathead that a starter actually fit around. Otherwise, I enjoyed the hell out of it as it is!
@@DeadDodgeGarage come on, with all the guys doing tutorials, if you have some tools, your time is cheap. You're never too old to learn a new skill. You might not put out a Riddler car, but you can spiff it up s bit. Nothing wrong with shiney. 😁 Besides, Dan from DD Speed Shop did an awesome job laying down a tractor paint paint job on his '57 Chevy roadster. Like he says, sandpaper is cheap. Now paint, not so much. 😁 You got good content, keep it up.
Well done! That's one straight old bus! ❤
Its about impossible to kill those Mopar flathead sixes. I was not surprised you got it running.
Nope, me neither. I have a 100% win rate with Chrysler flatheads. Haha. The starter was the only hiccup… and unfortunately it became a pretty big one.
Great video man I'd love to have that ole car
Me too! I wish I had been the lucky one who bought it.
Jealous as f%*k, love that body style. Would take that over a 32 Ford any day of the week. Starters!!! '80 Powerwagon 360 with headers. Big block starter, tight confines. That's a sweet ride any way you look at it
Yu r the man thx for the RIDE!
Klasse! Ich wünschte ich wäre mit drin gesessen.👍
My Late Grandfather worked for Plymouth. Engineering on Easter Sunday 1932. Worked for Cadillac since they started then 1 week for Fords. He tried telling Henry his ideas. He was NOT having it. Edsel listened. Even this he was the President of Fords. Dad said No ! So he took his idea to Plymouth/ DeSoto and built and out sold Ford ! .
One of my favorite car of the time!
Back in those days alcohol was used for antifreeze in place of ethylene glycol and as the alcohol would evaporate it would leave only the water which would sometimes freeze and bust the blocks so people were expected to drain them if they were gonna sit for a long time. And that plug is the lowest point on the engine.Should be one like it on the bottom of the radiator too
Interesting. I haven’t heard that. The plug is the lowest point in the water jackets, yes. There is a plug in the bottom of the radiator - and it was very much open, which I suppose I should’ve expected. I only made a small lake of antifreeze.
In some of these situations I turn the armature on my drill press using Emory cloth to improve the contacts, rock auto sells a stock replacement.
I saw someone doing essentially that in a video during this debacle. I had swapped armature for a much better, less burned looking unit out of one of the other starters. It really didn’t help at all… neither did resurfacing the brushes, or swapping the case windings. That actually made it worse.
Mr. Starter sounds like he's tumbling in a cement mixer full of rocks.
Good video. Our Dodge flathead 6 was also an issue when it came to the starter. I converted to 12 volts, and the original starter was working ... until it wasn't. I listened to several people who insisted that 12 volts was okay to give a 6 volt starter. They're wrong. Had trouble finding a replacement, so we had the old one rebuilt, and it failed instantly. Vic's Dodge Garage had it rewired for 12 volts for us, and it's good. Was this flathead engine built into the 12 volt era? And if so, do 12 volt versions exist in the parts market? Are there any starters available for this motor? Just wondering if you or anybody out there might know?
Yes, there are later 12 volt starters. The 12 volt system and the flathead overlapped for 4-5 years, at least. 12v came around ‘56, and the flathead was still in trucks at least in ‘61. It may have lasted even longer than that. Whether those later starters will fit your application or not, I can’t say for sure. Some 6v starters jive better on 12v than others. Yes, there are differences. My Power Wagon starts really well with the original 6v starter run on 12v, and I have definitely abused it to test the theory… my ‘55 Plymouth starter lived a pretty long and happy life too - but eventually it did check out.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the reply. I don't mean to beat a dead horse. On the fitment issue, I figure I could convert to key-start by changing the ignition switch and add a starter solenoid no problem. I assume that the flanges/ bolt patterns would be the same? And for the longshot, could a starter from another engine fit. Like a slant 6 unit possibly? Has anyone tried any of these possibilities? Just wondering thanks! Enjoying your content.
@@bkrefting5225 I don’t think there is any fitment interchange with slant or newer engines. There are different generations within the decades of flathead production where the tooth count on the flywheel and starter changed, so you’ll want to verify you are working with compatible pieces. I’m really not as big on this earlier stuff, but I’ve done some reading over the years. Many people have eliminated the mechanical start button and converted to key start without issue. Nice way to go. I’m not sure if this works for your application specifically, but for the 46+ Power Wagon, there is a conversion starter available. Might fit what you’ve got going on.
That was awesome. Now I want one. :)
You and me both!
One must "ALWAYS" place Transmission into synchronized gear before trying to engage low or reverse, to stop the motion of the gear train. Seems this trait was lost on people who failed to learn to drive "Real Machinery"
Funny, I always do that on my NP435-equipped trucks with non synchronized first. I also bump my 833-equipped Demon into first (synchronized) before reverse for this reason - but not because of an inherent design issue with engaging the non synchronized reverse gear. The clutch or pilot bearing seems to drag in that car. Most four speeds, and indeed manual transmissions in general DO NOT have synchronized reverse gears, and DO NOT require this. On this three speed, third gear might be synchronized? Second isn’t. I do not do this on the non synchronized 1&2 four speed in my Power Wagon, and it does not grind like this. So I’m going to have to say that “ALWAYS” is, as with many rules, more of a suggestion.
Damn, I thought a 60s Chrysler starter sounded bad. Gets the job done I reckon!
Did you catch the comment on my Volare video where the commenter asked me to leave in all of the Mopar starter cranking sounds because he loves them and they’re the best part?
You know ,you have a crank thing on the front of the crank pulley. Look behind the seat or trunk for a crank
Crank missing, wrong engine with wrong engine mount so the hole doesn’t line up anyway. We would’ve made a replacement crank if it would have worked.
Awesome thanks
Hmm... this could be nicely restored or a patina resto... I'd say keep it the same mechanically.
I don’t know the owner’s intentions, but I for one would leave it as it is, but reassemble the interior, find a starter that works, and enjoy it. Alright, and replace the missing roof.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm in agreement with that.
I LOVE THIS CAR!
Awesome car, I want one too
All “34 cars look Great ❤
Beautiful car
Great vid!!!!
I had a Dodge Brothers 1937 and was very similar
Awesome video!
My '36 Plymouth (original 201 engine, 116000 miles) will start if you pull the choke out all the way, then push it in as you step on the starter pedal. (It has an electric fuel pump).
Noice. My ‘48 Power Wagon fires right up with the choke pulled out if it has run in the last day or two. It has its original mechanical pump so longer than that requires some cranking. I do usually have to leave it around half choke for a bit. The carb is kind of finicky.
You have a 69 polara. That was my first car
Well, I don’t. Haha. Tom’s brother had an ex cop car ‘69 - I think that’s what you saw there. It has since moved on to greener pastures.
I enjoy the surprise myself. Seeing it running and driving in the intro spoiled it
I understand. I have had thoughts about that. I try to give a teaser of what’s coming in each video so people know what to expect, but it does spoil the surprise on something like this.
so which starter did you finally use? I have a 54 M37 with a 55 Plymouth engine...so i'm sure i'm gonna have starter issues....great car good job!!!
I think you’ll mostly be ok - those are both 230s and similar enough. As long as you’re using original bellhousing and flywheel you’ll be fine. We ended up using no starter at all… what was in it was the M37/ Power Wagon type unit with a ton of the case ground off.
A real beauty..
What a very cool car !! can you say Bonnie and Clyde?!!
I. Can’t believe you didn’t hit that vintage horn.
The wiring was pulled out of the column! I didn’t try putting power right to it. Sometimes I do that. 6v horns run on 12v are very impressive…
“What more could you want?” A working starter?
🤣 fair enough
Love the car.
Looks small til yu park it nxt to the Barricuda!
WHATS on the ROTIS? CHEVELLE OR BUICK?
Rotisserie? We don’t have one and only do Mopar here. Haha.
Stirring in an assortment of 6 , 12 , and 24 volt civilian and military starter parts makes success almost as probable as winning the power ball without purchasing a ticket.
While I see your point, you might want to revisit your probability calculations.
Jumping out of first? In my experience it has been caused by either a bad pilot bearing (most likely) or the bearings inside the input shaft, where the main shaft is supported. Could possibly be the ball bearing on the input shaft, but it would be worn by problems with the other two.
Interesting. I really don’t know anything about these transmissions. The car has since been shipped to the owner in California.
Nice wagon
Nice to see it driving.... How does it stop??
Stops great! Don’t ask me to explain how.
Shims maybe??
Because of the manual foot lever, I was able to adjust the gear engagement position, negating any possible need for shims. Because the bolts run horizontally, shims can’t move it away from the flywheel teeth, just in and out. But I do think I tried cranking with the starter partially loose and cocked at an angle to adjust the gear mesh.
That was cool
This might sound like a “Mister Obvious” question, but did you pour any oil or penetrant down those spark plug holes before you put the old plugs back in? I sure hope so…
No. The car ran recently enough that the gas in the tank still smelled good. It’s fine. In any case, I basically never do that. When new engines are breaking in and mating to cylinders, an excess of oil is bad. The two metal surfaces wearing on each other is paramount to a good break in. Why would this be any different on a worn engine? If rings are stuck in pistons, well, we’re going to have a bad time either way - and the likelihood of me getting them loosened up with some snake oil is pretty low. Heat, on the other hand… that might do it.
Que version economica ,sin guantera ni cenicero y tablero negro, de ser mod. PG .En argentina los combinaron en versiones ,nosotros tubimos un P E muy lindo en los 50.👏
Hey excellent video
I love the Plymouth like my grandpa says about new cars no brain no headache that's true about all cars I was teasing this kid with a hot rod he was bragging about how new cars have one coil per cylinder I said that's Model T technology he thought it was nuts till I looked it up you got fooled thanks
Sounds like your starter gear teeth are not meshing properly. I wonder if you have the wrong pinion or flywheel?
We strongly suspected that. There were definitely different tooth counts and flywheel arrangements used over the years, and the starter was definitely much newer than the car or engine.
Not sure if you did the bushings in the ends of the starter as that drag ever so slight will stop the parade. Your attempts have merit but until that starter whirels like a outhouse door handle its going to drag and not start from just drawing so much juice from the system that the points will not be enough
Interesting. I didn’t notice any drag there, but I also wasn’t explicitly looking for it. I did clean the bushings and commutator bushing surfaces. Keep in mind, I have never rebuilt a starter before. I keep a pile of 60s/70s Mopar starters around. We had a pile of these units too, but they were essentially all bad.
@@DeadDodgeGarage If there is any slack in the end bushings, especially the flywheel end, it will keep the starter from turning freely. Hence that grinding sound. New ones back in the day were around a dollar but now I guess finding one, maybe napa or O'reilly's could find one, if ya find them, change both ends if possible and use some vaseline for lube. I did starters in my shop for years and everything could get fairly tired, but keeping those bushings tight was a good ticket
I know where a honey hole of old dodges sit.I can send photos
I like old dodges. I’m also project poor and not interested in anything that’s far from me in the Pacific Northwest… but it would be cool to know what’s out there 😁
where did u find this and how much was it?
It came from an estate sale. I didn’t buy it, and I don’t know how much it cost. I know it’s awesome and I’m jealous though.
Not 'PG 13 C'. It is 'PG BC', a model PG Business Coupe. All 34 Plymouths have this model and color called out on that quarter panel, factory marking.
I wouldn’t know.
Now you do! Have photos of some other examples if you would like to see them, couldn't figure out how to attach to this reply.@@DeadDodgeGarage
@@Scott-e6p7z I would love to know more about cars from this time. I really bonded with this Plymouth. It was awesome. RUclips comments don't allow attaching photos. Sometimes links work - but sometimes they don't.
Like this car.
Me too… I wish I had gotten a chance to buy it. It’s so cool.
is that a duster in the back ground & is it for sale
Yes… and potentially. Really good project car. No drivetrain. Located in olympia, WA. If you are seriously interested, contact me at jamienoise@gmail.com and I will put you in touch with the owner, Tom. It will not be dirt cheap - but reasonable.
You probably already know this, but breaking your points with a screwdriver is not a “real world” situation. Your screwdriver is doing the grounding and ungrounding. You have to clean the contacts and watch it throw spark from the center wire of the coil pulled out of the cab and held up against the block under the power of the starter to emulate a real world situation and from the sounds of that starter I wouldn’t grind it anymore than what’s absolutely necessary. A fly wheel would be a bear to put in that thing.
No, that isn’t correct. When the screwdriver bridges the metal back strap of the points to any metal on the other side (grounded,) then yes it creates a path to ground around the contacts. If the points are completely closed, opening them with the tip of a screwdriver (or whatever) without bridging the two sides does the same thing as cranking the engine - it removes the path to ground, causing the coil to collapse. No, this does not account for voltage drop caused by the starter, but it’s a moot point. That will always be there during cranking. What we want is a reliable path to ground through the points - which it did not have when I started, and did have when I was finished. I like to use a screwdriver for several reasons. If the points are closed, and you bridge them with a screwdriver but no sparks happen, you just learned that the points probably have continuity and are fine. It’s also really easy to test the coil this way.
Follow up, The years for this was 1956 & 1957.
Funny cause when you got it running you never mentioned if the brakes work.🤣STOP!
They worked minty! I knew they would as soon as I felt the brake pedal at the beginning, and I mentioned it then.
That engine looks like my dodge wc t214 engine