I recently purchased a 1953 Willys model m3. I did not know anything about them. Thanks to 2 of your videos I just had a lot of my questions answered. Thank you I will be watching more of them.
Glad my videos have helped you. I am trying to make them interesting for new people in the hobby as well as experienced folks. Keep watching, more videos coming.
When you upgrade the brakes do you need to upgrade the master cylinder also? I can not afford to do the upgrade yet but I need to fix the brakes so I can drive it. The Jeep has a mercury V6 in it. Can you tell me of a good supplier where I can purchase a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders.I could rebuild them but the bleeder screws have been rounded off. What would you suggest? I value your opinion. Thank you for the reply to my last message.
You don't have to upgrade the master cylinder when doing an 11" conversion. Some guys put in a dual cylinder and some guys keep the single cylinder. Whichever you use just make sure it is in good shape. You can get good quality jeep parts from Pete DeBella Jeep parts. Tell him that Brian from youtube sent you and he will fix you up with whatever you need. Call him at 631 874 8660
Hello Brian, I finally saved up the money to buy a suspension rebuild kit. You had mentioned purchasing an American made kit as the springs are made out of better steel. Who is your supplier? I know that you have answered this question before for other people but I cannot find the answer. Also what is the difference between closed and open suspension. I appreciate any help you can give me. I watch as many of your videos as I can. I do not have access to a computer very often. Again thank you very much for any help you can give me. Michael Dulaney
Awesome video great information. On those leaf spring bracket i refab used 427 bolts n welded them on the leaf spring bracket n drilled a hole for the cotter pin n yes the bolts are harden..
Hi Brian, are you upgrading to a dual reservoir master cylinder? If so, I would like to see a video on the installation if possible. Thanks again for the great videos.
The original springs were in rough shape and lost most of their arch. we decided to replace the old springs with new ones. They were custom made for this project and made right here in the USA. Don't waste your time or money on old springs or springs made overseas, they just don't last.
Great videos. Could you please share which dual master cylinder is the easiest install on my 49 3A? There is so little room. Thank you again for the knowledge that you impart.
There are many different master cylinders that will fit. The later CJ dual master cylinder is an easy install but brackets will need to be made or bought and new brake lines will have to be installed as well. If there is any or enough interest I can make a video of how to install a dual master setup. Brian
I use quartz sand. Not just any sand, the stuff I use is termed Well Grade and is used for backfilling old wells. I use 0 on the heavy stuff like frames and 00 for finer stuff such as bodies and sheetmetal parts.
I appreciate the videos, very helpful experience. I see in this video that you were gonna try to record the engine rebuild but I don’t see a video with that. Did the other shop allow you to film that process? And do you have a video for that. I’ve built plenty of engines but this is my first l134 and I’d really like to get an experts inside tricks and knowledge on these engines. Thanks for your time.
The machine shop did not want any filming done on the engine work. Trying to get some footage done from another shop but it may be a while before I have a video ready to go. Brian
With listening to your advise on the bolts I visited three businesses trying to get the Lake Erie bolts for this exact job but none of them seem to carry the brand or have the ability to order them. Can you point me in the right direction??
My 3A has brake issues. Crushed hard line front axle. No pulling so im assuming im just on rear drums. Its an unmolested original so im cautious about a brake upgrade. Are the stock 9 inch drums adequate when functioning properly or is the 11" swap (or disc) a must? All 4 corners or just the fronts? Thanx for the Fluud Film recommend. Local Autozone just started carrying it so I scored a couple cans!
9" brakes are fine if you keep them adjusted properly and they are free of any grease or oil which can get on them. the 11" upgrade is good if you want self adjusting brakes and more braking power. I would recommend if you swap to 11" you put them on all 4 wheels for the best performance.
Thank you for taking time to do these videos! I could've done it without you. I was wondering what is torque spec for hub assembly to spindle the 6 bolts? Also I converted my front axle shafts to u joints instead of bendex. You still pack the knuckles and u joint area on axle shaft same as bendex right? (They are seal u joints, no grease fitting) If so I got lucky and got my hands on 16 cans of o.d. no. 0 spec axs-783 rev. 3 miltary grease packed in 1951. They were all still sealed opened up and grease seams like new. Is this ok to use? Thanks again for all your time and help, Jeff
Torque should be 35 ft. lbs. for the bolts you are talking about. When spicer u joints were used in front axle assemblies they had no seal between the cap and main body and that allowed grease to get into the needle bearings. I don't know if your joints have a seal or not, but if they do you will want to remove it. I have the proper knuckle lube if you need it. Old grease, even though unopened does not have the quality of modern lubricants so it is up to you if you want to use it. Just make sure your u joint has a way to get lube into it.
you always have great info rebuilding a 1946 cj im down to the brakes some people show short shoe toward front oters do it differnt i want mine the proper way your way apreciate a reply and thanks
If you are using original 9" brakes with anchor pins at the bottom and adjusters at top then you should put the long shoe in the front. If you are using self adjusting 11" brakes then you should put the long shoe in the rear. Brian
Mi metalshaper. This is Seiichi Shioi from Tokyo Japan. I am studing the procedure of front hub bearing mentenance. Can I use your video on my personel blog for my Japanese Jeeper friends in Japan domestic ?
Send me a link to your blog or contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net I would like to see what you are doing over in Japan, good to hear from you, Brian
the 11" kits come with everything needed for installation. You can get them from a variety of places if you search around or you can put your own kit together and save some money. this kit came from Woody's and I am not sure but with shipping and all parts I think it was around $1000
@metalshaper when you say put your own kit together is it possible to “rob” 11 in brakes off a later cj5 or something. I only ask because I just bought a 52 cj3a and it has 11in drum conversion can’t find anything on it signifying what they are from. Curious what the previous owner got them off of or if it was most likely a kit
I'm confused. Your drum is on top of your hub. My drum is behind the flange? Is it ok to run them the way you have as that would make reaching the brake stuff easier.
The early vehicles had the drums swedged to the hub and the hub and drum was one piece. That meant the hub had to be pulled to service the brakes. In the later vehicles the drum was over the hub like a modern vehicle and to service the brakes all you had to do was pull the wheel and remove the drum. The hub stayed in place. Either was is fine and some guys remove the drum from behind the hub and put a later drum on so brake work is easier.
Thank you for your videos and replying. Just got a 1960 FC170 and I am enjoying and learning from your excellent videos big time! I definitely like the idea of switching up my brake drum configuration so the drums are on the outside of the hub and not behind the hub like mine are. Will certainly make servicing the brakes easier as you mentioned.
What gear oil do you recommend. Just curious, I just purchased a 56 Willy and from what I have read on line, newer gear oil is hard on the seals. What type and viscosity.
I have a complete line of lubricants available for early willys and other early vehicles. I can send you a list, just email me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net Brian
Yes, I have an entire line of lubricants that I use on these old willys. I have developed a bunch of lubes for knuckle joint, transmission and transfer case, etc... Most of the lube I use can't be bought off the shelf but I do sell it to the old vehicle community.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Willys Jeep Wheel Bearing SETUP [easy to follow steps]](/img/1.gif)
I recently purchased a 1953 Willys model m3. I did not know anything about them. Thanks to 2 of your videos I just had a lot of my questions answered. Thank you I will be watching more of them.
Glad my videos have helped you. I am trying to make them interesting for new people in the hobby as well as experienced folks. Keep watching, more videos coming.
When you upgrade the brakes do you need to upgrade the master cylinder also? I can not afford to do the upgrade yet but I need to fix the brakes so I can drive it. The Jeep has a mercury V6 in it. Can you tell me of a good supplier where I can purchase a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders.I could rebuild them but the bleeder screws have been rounded off. What would you suggest? I value your opinion. Thank you for the reply to my last message.
You don't have to upgrade the master cylinder when doing an 11" conversion. Some guys put in a dual cylinder and some guys keep the single cylinder. Whichever you use just make sure it is in good shape. You can get good quality jeep parts from Pete DeBella Jeep parts. Tell him that Brian from youtube sent you and he will fix you up with whatever you need. Call him at 631 874 8660
Thank you for the information. I appreciate it very much. I will be giving Pete a call on Monday.
Hello Brian, I finally saved up the money to buy a suspension rebuild kit. You had mentioned purchasing an American made kit as the springs are made out of better steel. Who is your supplier? I know that you have answered this question before for other people but I cannot find the answer. Also what is the difference between closed and open suspension. I appreciate any help you can give me. I watch as many of your videos as I can. I do not have access to a computer very often. Again thank you very much for any help you can give me. Michael Dulaney
Awesome video great information. On those leaf spring bracket i refab used 427 bolts n welded them on the leaf spring bracket n drilled a hole for the cotter pin n yes the bolts are harden..
NEVER EVER STOP MAKING THESE VIDEOS!!!!
Thanks for watching, glad you are enjoying my channel.
Brian
Hi Brian, are you upgrading to a dual reservoir master cylinder? If so, I would like to see a video on the installation if possible.
Thanks again for the great videos.
Glad you're sounding better! Just a quick question - did you work on the spring pack? If so how would you assess ok/repair/replace. Thanks. DB
The original springs were in rough shape and lost most of their arch. we decided to replace the old springs with new ones. They were custom made for this project and made right here in the USA. Don't waste your time or money on old springs or springs made overseas, they just don't last.
Can you post the link of your supplier? Thanks.
Brian have you ever shared what Proper bolts bY size by application?
Great videos. Could you please share which dual master cylinder is the easiest install on my 49 3A? There is so little room. Thank you again for the knowledge that you impart.
There are many different master cylinders that will fit. The later CJ dual master cylinder is an easy install but brackets will need to be made or bought and new brake lines will have to be installed as well. If there is any or enough interest I can make a video of how to install a dual master setup.
Brian
Great Videos. Very informative.
thanks for the comment, glad you are enjoying the videos.
What materials do you use to sand blast? Soda? sand? and or what grits? Maybe an idea for a video?
I use quartz sand. Not just any sand, the stuff I use is termed Well Grade and is used for backfilling old wells. I use 0 on the heavy stuff like frames and 00 for finer stuff such as bodies and sheetmetal parts.
Is this different from the silica sand? Thanks.
I appreciate the videos, very helpful experience. I see in this video that you were gonna try to record the engine rebuild but I don’t see a video with that. Did the other shop allow you to film that process? And do you have a video for that. I’ve built plenty of engines but this is my first l134 and I’d really like to get an experts inside tricks and knowledge on these engines. Thanks for your time.
The machine shop did not want any filming done on the engine work. Trying to get some footage done from another shop but it may be a while before I have a video ready to go.
Brian
With listening to your advise on the bolts I visited three businesses trying to get the Lake Erie bolts for this exact job but none of them seem to carry the brand or have the ability to order them. Can you point me in the right direction??
My 3A has brake issues. Crushed hard line front axle. No pulling so im assuming im just on rear drums. Its an unmolested original so im cautious about a brake upgrade.
Are the stock 9 inch drums adequate when functioning properly or is the 11" swap (or disc) a must? All 4 corners or just the fronts?
Thanx for the Fluud Film recommend. Local Autozone just started carrying it so I scored a couple cans!
9" brakes are fine if you keep them adjusted properly and they are free of any grease or oil which can get on them. the 11" upgrade is good if you want self adjusting brakes and more braking power. I would recommend if you swap to 11" you put them on all 4 wheels for the best performance.
Thank you for taking time to do these videos! I could've done it without you. I was wondering what is torque spec for hub assembly to spindle the 6 bolts?
Also I converted my front axle shafts to u joints instead of bendex. You still pack the knuckles and u joint area on axle shaft same as bendex right? (They are seal u joints, no grease fitting)
If so I got lucky and got my hands on 16 cans of o.d. no. 0 spec axs-783 rev. 3 miltary grease packed in 1951. They were all still sealed opened up and grease seams like new. Is this ok to use?
Thanks again for all your time and help, Jeff
I meant I was not able to do rebuild without you.
Torque should be 35 ft. lbs. for the bolts you are talking about. When spicer u joints were used in front axle assemblies they had no seal between the cap and main body and that allowed grease to get into the needle bearings. I don't know if your joints have a seal or not, but if they do you will want to remove it. I have the proper knuckle lube if you need it. Old grease, even though unopened does not have the quality of modern lubricants so it is up to you if you want to use it. Just make sure your u joint has a way to get lube into it.
Hi Brian, another great video! What do you torque the backing plate to spindle bolts too? Thank you for your help and for all your great videos.
Use a good quality, grade 8 bolt, put some sealer on the threads and torque to 35 ft. pounds.
What is the torque for the 6 bolts?
you always have great info rebuilding a 1946 cj im down to the brakes some people show short shoe toward front oters do it differnt i want mine the proper way your way apreciate a reply and thanks
If you are using original 9" brakes with anchor pins at the bottom and adjusters at top then you should put the long shoe in the front. If you are using self adjusting 11" brakes then you should put the long shoe in the rear.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep thank you
Mi metalshaper. This is Seiichi Shioi from Tokyo Japan. I am studing the procedure of front hub bearing mentenance. Can I use your video on my personel blog for my Japanese Jeeper friends in Japan domestic ?
Send me a link to your blog or contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
I would like to see what you are doing over in Japan, good to hear from you, Brian
can you share the info on your 11" brake kit. Does it come complete with all backing plates wheel cylinders etc.? What do the run for cost?
the 11" kits come with everything needed for installation. You can get them from a variety of places if you search around or you can put your own kit together and save some money. this kit came from Woody's and I am not sure but with shipping and all parts I think it was around $1000
@metalshaper when you say put your own kit together is it possible to “rob” 11 in brakes off a later cj5 or something. I only ask because I just bought a 52 cj3a and it has 11in drum conversion can’t find anything on it signifying what they are from. Curious what the previous owner got them off of or if it was most likely a kit
Do you work on other folks vehicles? If so where are you located? Thanks for your time.
Yes I work on complete restorations and individual components for people all over the world. I am located in Connecticut.
Brian
I'm confused. Your drum is on top of your hub. My drum is behind the flange? Is it ok to run them the way you have as that would make reaching the brake stuff easier.
The early vehicles had the drums swedged to the hub and the hub and drum was one piece. That meant the hub had to be pulled to service the brakes. In the later vehicles the drum was over the hub like a modern vehicle and to service the brakes all you had to do was pull the wheel and remove the drum. The hub stayed in place. Either was is fine and some guys remove the drum from behind the hub and put a later drum on so brake work is easier.
Thank you for your videos and replying. Just got a 1960 FC170 and I am enjoying and learning from your excellent videos big time! I definitely like the idea of switching up my brake drum configuration so the drums are on the outside of the hub and not behind the hub like mine are. Will certainly make servicing the brakes easier as you mentioned.
What gear oil do you recommend. Just curious, I just purchased a 56 Willy and from what I have read on line, newer gear oil is hard on the seals. What type and viscosity.
I have a complete line of lubricants available for early willys and other early vehicles. I can send you a list, just email me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Do you have a preferred wheel bearing grease ?
Yes, I have an entire line of lubricants that I use on these old willys. I have developed a bunch of lubes for knuckle joint, transmission and transfer case, etc... Most of the lube I use can't be bought off the shelf but I do sell it to the old vehicle community.
Are hubs installed the the same way and to the same torque values on the military axle for a GPW/MB?
yes
Thank you!@@metalshaperJeep
What sealer do you use?
I know this is an old video but I've got a set of those
What is the jeep 11inch brakes off of?
11" from 70's era jeep vehicles.
N
I'll CJ38
CJ 3 A never had self adjusting brakes that is something from at least the 60s
Great video, very informative.
Thanks for the comment and glad you are enjoying the videos. keep watching much more on the way.