Your question is pointless. This is a vintage tractor. Some of us belong to the keep it as OEM as possible Church. If you have followed Squatch253 you have seen that he even tries to use OEM fasteners on his restorations. Myself I can really appreciate this because my hobby is restoring Vintage and antique Machine tools Lathes/Mills etc.) I am restoring a vintage lathe that needed a new 3 phase motor. Rather than buy a new motor I had the OEM motor rewound. I am currently restoring an antique Camel Back drill press. The machine was originally driven by a line shaft probably steam powered but was converted to a 120-year-old reduction/repulsion motor. I will rework the motor to as new condition rather than put a late model motor on it. The bolts have square nuts. 1 is missing. I have located one and will replace it So Vinny Hern what is your point?
Sour grapes in tone. Its a nice mod and the usual high quality Squatch approach. I wish there was a thumbs down. What I would do vs Squatch may not be the same but he is the guy at the pointy end of the tractor, you respect the guy doing the work when its the class of work Squatch does.
The next step to let it look like from factory would be using a coax-type cable with the shield used as ground and spilt up to postive and negative right in the appliance. That would let it look like only a single wire goes into the housing. Only thing is to find some cable in coax style with appropiate amount of copper that can handle the 6 volts without too much drop ... Thx for showing! 👍👍👍
Very nice. On suggestion would be to orient the positive inside spade more 90 deg to the ground. Call it my fold lock syndrome, it should not move but if in the extremely remote possibility it would have a path to the ground and short ( make sure that insulation sleeve is pushed up to the spade.) I did shudder at the thump of the light to the bench but in reality far worse day in day out when driving!
Nice modification Squach! I wanted to offer a soldering tip I picked up from a grey-beard. Tin both wires/components to be joined, leaving a little excess. Then hold them in place, and put the iron right on top until the solder flows. Pull the iron away and continue holding the wire until the solder solidifies. You can blow on it to speed things up if your fingers get too hot 😮. Works great for these joints and joining wires also, and eliminates the need for funky fixturing to get everything in alignment.
My wife overheard you describing the electrical path to ground and she started singing the Dem Bones / Skeleton Dance song. (foot bone is connected to the leg bone, etc.) I had to share...Thanks for the video!
Agree 100%..chased so many "flickering"/ non-working lights on trailers because of corroded grounds. One suggestion is coating the base of your light bulb with thin coat of silicon grease to help prevent possible future corrosion on the bulb itself.
Hi, I have noticed how thorough you are and am impressed. When you were assembling the light you failed to remove your finger prints from the inside (the silver part that throws the light) before you put that red rim on. There are 1of 2 ways to solve the matter, you can open the light and wipe/remove the finger prints or just leave it as is hoping that your grandson will be like you when (if) he is fiddling with the light finds those prints. I keep an eye on what you are up to because you are happy to tell (me) what/why/how things are going, for that I say Thank you.
Great light modification! In 20+ years of restoring Farmall tractors I never had a OEM "contact style light fail to light up. I don't think I apply my paint as professionally as you and your father do so I don't get the insulating affect. Good Modification!
2:52 this is called a bayonet fitting. 6:00 the "shiny coating" is zinc plate . This will solder well with plain resin cored solder and moderate temperature. Too much heat from the "good ol' soldering iron" will oxidise the zinc . Abrading it will actually make it harder to solder and if the steel substrate is exposed , will be a poorer joint.
How fortunate for that modification to be shown in a video as I'm about to fit headlights to my Bradford UK built B250 tractor and had been wondering the best way to go about it 🤔 thank you 😁👍
I developed the desire to solder crimped connections after spending several hours tracking down corroded crimped connections on a carpet cleaning machine that was mounted in a van.
We had an old MM G900 that turned over slow even with two batteries. New batteries didn't help. After closer inspection, the ground from one of the batteries that attached to the frame was attached on top of paint and was not making good connection. A bit of sandpaper paint removal fixed the problem. Started like a dream. Good idea with the dedicated ground. The ground definitely completes the circuit!
When resoring the headlamps on my Allis D272 I couldn't get replacements for the original bulbs but found it relatively easy to make H7 bulbs fit. When the lights were turned on it soon became obvious that the heat from these was going to burn the paint off the shells, so I ended up wired them in series, still far brighter than the originals I suspect.
I like this upgrade. I put new lights on my Super C and they wouldn't work. I had a really hard time trying to find out where the ground probolem was. I'm about to tear it down to rebuild it. I will definitely do this upgrade when it goes back together. Thanks for sharing this. It seem like I learn something from every video you put out.
Thank you for this video Toby. I fully understand the "correct" police will be after you, but this is the joy of doing what you want to your own machine. This technology of the day was interesting then upgraded in the Super series, then again after that. Having worked with OEM Tractor Parts in their infancy, we spent a lot of time on lights, the original blue prints, functionality, can we make them work better for the "correct" crowd without changing outward appearance, etc. Those were great days. Great job on this video once again.
Love the ground mod, doesn't seem much like a mod though seeing how professional it was done. It also wouldn't hurt to add dielectric grease in the light socket.
Excellent method of improving the ground. When it comes to electrical connections a bad ground is like showing up at a Brothel with no money. Thanks for bringing us along.
Great way to deal with that new paint! Very clean. Do you run the ground wire to a cleaned up hidden ground somewhere or all the way back to the battery?
Old John Deere tractors have the same problem, and I've made the same modification to the lights on my '57 620. I did take the small extra steps of cleaning the area around the head of the bolt to bare metal and adding a star washer between the head and the sheet metal.
Love the modification! I'm not a fan of contact grounds. Have you considered upgrading to LED bulbs? I've upgraded to retrofit LED bulbs in my camping lamps and love them.
One thing I would reccomend is a star washer between your two outter hex nuts that will ground the light. I have always found that this adds a layer of "bite" to the connection. This is from an engineering viewpoint. Great Mod!
Reading through the comments. God bless you Sqautch, didn't realize how many arm chair elechickens there are out there.. Nice mod. Paint isn't a great conductor indeed..
Excellent video! For those of us that limited mechanical background, you made a great video that is easy to understand and follow! Love your work in this series! Thanks, Jeff
I must say Well done sir. I've been a maintenance electrician for the last 40 years and that was a beautiful explanation and a solid execution to a ground issue improvement. Saves you buying a gross of star washers for every bolt and connection. 😎👍
Years ago I got tired of the winking lights on my trailers. Same procedure works on those lights as well. Just don’t forget to hook the white wire on the vehicle to a good ground.
When I first got my 1970 Volvo 4 years ago one of the first projects was to get dedicated grounds to the lighting, the most troublesome being the parking lights on the aluminium grill. Everything in that car used body contact grounds and it just doesn't allow full current over time. Eventually the dashboard switches and instrument panel will get proper grounds for everything.
a lot of tractors got this mod in the field, anyway. Not as professionally done though--scrape paint with a jack knife, drill a hole with a nail & wrap the wire around a screw. 😂 I have encountered period light housings with a factory threaded hole for an optional ground. they were likely not oe lights for IH but some suppliers understood the ground wire was going to be necessary. also the first generation sealed beams in the pancake lights from IH in the mid 1950s used an external ground screw for the beam so you could easily add a ground wire.
Great video we did this to our 140 back in the 70s. One thing we did on the bayonet light socket we drilled a 1/8 hole through to make sure the solder made direct contact with bulb base they are steel and tend to rust.We used 10/32 brass screw and nuts with rubber fawcet washers to attach the ground wire to on back of the light housing
Thanks for the video and the process on how you accomplish this. You may want to double check inside. It looked as if the U clip rotated when you hooked the power spade up and either came very close to the ground lug or actually touched it,not sure if it matters ? Just saying. Thanks for video.
I needed a way to get electricity out of the trunk to the LED tail lights on my 1940 Ford. I chucked a fender bolt in my lathe and drilled it through the center.
The iron is always hotter than the joint or the work. Tip: Apply the solder to the heated joint, not the iron, you'll get better wetting/flow that way. The old Fabric and Rubber cord for those old heavy soldering irons is called "Gutta-Percha"; Fabric-covered Rubber tubing with Gutta-Percha paste (as the insulator) inside of it.
A good modification. My intuition would have been to run both ground and power through the existing hole and use a grommet to seal the wires. This assumes two wires fit through the original hole. A dab of silicone would finish the seal. Your way works great though.
When I solder stuff like this (non-copper to copper wire) I use zinc chloride flux to tin the non-copper, then wash it well. For the rest I use rosin. You don't want any trace of a corrosive flux left, or your wire will dissolve over the years.
I think I would have removed the positive through connector and used a grommet in its place then feed a 2 conductor wire through the grommet. A black (or whatever color you want) cover over the wire would make it look like a single conductor (AKA factory). A connector could be used inside the housing if wanted to allow the removal of the headlight if necessary/wanted. grounding would take place where ever you want (ground terminal strip, direct to battery, etc.).
Its the same process on AC lights with the only difference being that AC ran their wires through the mounting rod so I was able to avoid drilling a hole to run the ground wire out and was able to run it parallel with the power wire. It's a much cleaner look, maybe IH should've been taking lessons 😂
I have a question. What is your opinion on replacing the incandescent bulbs with a LED bulbs? I am restoring/upgrading an Allis Chalmers model B tractor. It will not be a trailer queen, but a working tractor on a micro-farm. I have already done some upgrades. I have coveted from hand brakes to foot brakes, added a hydraulic pump (OEM) and a 3-point hitch. Planning on adding the radiator shudders, converting to electric start(12 volt system), and adding lights. I do have to swap the engine as it had gotten water into cylinder 3. Again not a show tractor but a working one. Just looking for an opinion here. Thanks
I don't know this tractor....but i think you now have to insulate the mounting connection. Reason being that if you have a faulty main ground, then you are going to ground through those little wires when you crank the starter? I have always called that type bulb connection, a bayonet fitting.
Put a nut on the thread on that bolt on the clamp as well. Sucks when you see the glass fall on the ground. A nyloc should do wonders. Awesome conversion, would've modded the plastic seal too, myself, but it's on the underside so it should do. Our H no longer has the original lights, they're probably from another tractor, likely one of our local European ones. A bit taller, double bulb with low and high options (for legal reasons so it can be road legal).
As you were explaining way direct ground works I couldn't help but start hearing it DRY BONES theme. Toe bone's connected to the foot bone. Foot bone's connected the ankle bone. Etc. ONLY here it's: Light bulb grounds at the socket. Socket grounds at the bucket. Bucket grounds at the bolt stud. Etc.
Personally, I would have run a two core cable through a compression gland in place of the hot terminal, then run the cable back to the instrument box and made all my connections in that. Been doing something similar on 6 an 12v bikes for years.
@@squatch253 I agree, some items are a little more finicky about the ground but bulbs are not. The things you learn in 4 + yrs of electrical / electronics schooling as well as 20 plus yrs in that trade besides. Keep on smiling and hopefully I will see you at a threshing show next week end or sometime soon.
It would be more difficult, since it seems to be attached to the housing, but you could drill a hole through the mounting stud and run the wire down though that, instead of drilling the housing. Also a little less visible.
I don't have a good punch set so I use the rubber washers made for water faucets, here almost all the Chinese bazaars have them in assorted packages for less than €1
I was just wondering, if you break a lens, will a par36 bulb retrofit into the housing? There are some nice LED par 36 bulbs on Amazon that I used to upgrade lighting on a truck mounted forklift for early morning deliveries.
Might I suggest I think my mental state requires the nut to always be placed inside so the outside view of the headlight shell would have a finished bolt head, not the the threaded bolt and nut 😛 IOW, turn them around so you don't see all the excess threads and nut 😛 But its not my tractor so you of course may do it however you want to do it 🙂
@@squatch253 True - but to my mind's eye, it would look better 🙂Thanks so much for your reply and putting up with all of us who comment & critique your work. You and senior do some great stuff while we get to watch.
👎👎 pointless, use a weatherproof plug if your really that worried about corrosion over time!
Don't know if I would put a 2000's era plug on this tractor
Yes it is not a dedicated ground at all only partial
Your question is pointless. This is a vintage tractor. Some of us belong to the keep it as OEM as possible Church. If you have followed Squatch253 you have seen that he even tries to use OEM fasteners on his restorations. Myself I can really appreciate this because my hobby is restoring Vintage and antique Machine tools Lathes/Mills etc.) I am restoring a vintage lathe that needed a new 3 phase motor. Rather than buy a new motor I had the OEM motor rewound. I am currently restoring an antique Camel Back drill press. The machine was originally driven by a line shaft probably steam powered but was converted to a 120-year-old reduction/repulsion motor. I will rework the motor to as new condition rather than put a late model motor on it. The bolts have square nuts. 1 is missing. I have located one and will replace it So Vinny Hern what is your point?
Not sure about anyone else but going from a non working ground to a working ground that won’t corrode is not pointless.
Sour grapes in tone. Its a nice mod and the usual high quality Squatch approach. I wish there was a thumbs down. What I would do vs Squatch may not be the same but he is the guy at the pointy end of the tractor, you respect the guy doing the work when its the class of work Squatch does.
The next step to let it look like from factory would be using a coax-type cable with the shield used as ground and spilt up to postive and negative right in the appliance. That would let it look like only a single wire goes into the housing. Only thing is to find some cable in coax style with appropiate amount of copper that can handle the 6 volts without too much drop ...
Thx for showing!
👍👍👍
Very nice. On suggestion would be to orient the positive inside spade more 90 deg to the ground. Call it my fold lock syndrome, it should not move but if in the extremely remote possibility it would have a path to the ground and short ( make sure that insulation sleeve is pushed up to the spade.) I did shudder at the thump of the light to the bench but in reality far worse day in day out when driving!
Nice modification Squach! I wanted to offer a soldering tip I picked up from a grey-beard. Tin both wires/components to be joined, leaving a little excess. Then hold them in place, and put the iron right on top until the solder flows. Pull the iron away and continue holding the wire until the solder solidifies. You can blow on it to speed things up if your fingers get too hot 😮. Works great for these joints and joining wires also, and eliminates the need for funky fixturing to get everything in alignment.
What a nice, clean way to add a ground wire! Top notch!
My wife overheard you describing the electrical path to ground and she started singing the Dem Bones / Skeleton Dance song. (foot bone is connected to the leg bone, etc.) I had to share...Thanks for the video!
Agree 100%..chased so many "flickering"/ non-working lights on trailers because of corroded grounds. One suggestion is coating the base of your light bulb with thin coat of silicon grease to help prevent possible future corrosion on the bulb itself.
Hi, I have noticed how thorough you are and am impressed.
When you were assembling the light you failed to remove your finger prints from the inside (the silver part that throws the light) before you put that red rim on.
There are 1of 2 ways to solve the matter, you can open the light and wipe/remove the finger prints or just leave it as is hoping that your grandson will be like you when (if) he is fiddling with the light finds those prints.
I keep an eye on what you are up to because you are happy to tell (me) what/why/how things are going, for that I say Thank you.
I used to buy star washers as a quick fix for all my contact ground systems.
Great light modification! In 20+ years of restoring Farmall tractors I never had a OEM "contact style light fail to light up. I don't think I apply my paint as professionally as you and your father do so I don't get the insulating affect. Good Modification!
2:52 this is called a bayonet fitting.
6:00 the "shiny coating" is zinc plate . This will solder well with plain resin cored solder and moderate temperature. Too much heat from the "good ol' soldering iron" will oxidise the zinc . Abrading it will actually make it harder to solder and if the steel substrate is exposed , will be a poorer joint.
How fortunate for that modification to be shown in a video as I'm about to fit headlights to my Bradford UK built B250 tractor and had been wondering the best way to go about it 🤔 thank you 😁👍
The electrical path to ground would have made Rube Goldberg proud! I am glad to see I am not the only one that solders crimped wire terminals.
I developed the desire to solder crimped connections after spending several hours tracking down corroded crimped connections on a carpet cleaning machine that was mounted in a van.
Beautiful craftsmanship again Squatch! Will last endlessly this way.
Nice..I have a john deer they drilled a hole thru the bolt and ran power thru the bolt....good idea for a streamline look..
Thanks for sharing.
We had an old MM G900 that turned over slow even with two batteries. New batteries didn't help. After closer inspection, the ground from one of the batteries that attached to the frame was attached on top of paint and was not making good connection. A bit of sandpaper paint removal fixed the problem. Started like a dream. Good idea with the dedicated ground. The ground definitely completes the circuit!
When resoring the headlamps on my Allis D272 I couldn't get replacements for the original bulbs but found it relatively easy to make H7 bulbs fit. When the lights were turned on it soon became obvious that the heat from these was going to burn the paint off the shells, so I ended up wired them in series, still far brighter than the originals I suspect.
Glad to see you got the band back together in the end.
Good “how to” lesson on grounding. Nice job!
I like this upgrade. I put new lights on my Super C and they wouldn't work. I had a really hard time trying to find out where the ground probolem was. I'm about to tear it down to rebuild it. I will definitely do this upgrade when it goes back together. Thanks for sharing this. It seem like I learn something from every video you put out.
Great Job!! A natural Teacher!
Thank you for this video Toby. I fully understand the "correct" police will be after you, but this is the joy of doing what you want to your own machine. This technology of the day was interesting then upgraded in the Super series, then again after that. Having worked with OEM Tractor Parts in their infancy, we spent a lot of time on lights, the original blue prints, functionality, can we make them work better for the "correct" crowd without changing outward appearance, etc. Those were great days. Great job on this video once again.
Very neat ground wire installation.
Excellent, this what I will be using on my Farmall Super C and I plan to buy a Farmall Cub as well. You have some great video on restoring.
Love the ground mod, doesn't seem much like a mod though seeing how professional it was done. It also wouldn't hurt to add dielectric grease in the light socket.
Full supporter of running dedicated wires for ground.
Excellent method of improving the ground. When it comes to electrical connections a bad ground is like showing up at a Brothel with no money. Thanks for bringing us along.
Good morning Squatch!
Thanks so very much for this information 😊
Very nice, will save trouble down the road! Be there done that!
Nice detailed explanation yes it’s hard to drill holes into newly purchased anything but a necessity in this case. Well done
Great way to deal with that new paint! Very clean. Do you run the ground wire to a cleaned up hidden ground somewhere or all the way back to the battery?
I’ve done it similar to that except I just soldered my wire and ran it through a grommet. I’ll have to try your fancy method next time!
Good episode, I would only add to solder the wire before connecting it, less chance of a cold joint 👍👍
Old John Deere tractors have the same problem, and I've made the same modification to the lights on my '57 620. I did take the small extra steps of cleaning the area around the head of the bolt to bare metal and adding a star washer between the head and the sheet metal.
Decades ago as a youngster, I did the same mod to my bicycle light!! I’ve never been a fan of contact grounds and flickering lights.
Thanks. These kinda things get overlooked sometimes with focus on the mechanical. Intermittent grounds are so frustrating!
Great idea to add the ground wire. Lights will now always work well.
Great job on the lights Squatch. Nice and tidy and a great way to eliminate a lot of small headaches. Looking forward to the next video. Cheers
Love the modification! I'm not a fan of contact grounds. Have you considered upgrading to LED bulbs? I've upgraded to retrofit LED bulbs in my camping lamps and love them.
One thing I would reccomend is a star washer between your two outter hex nuts that will ground the light. I have always found that this adds a layer of "bite" to the connection. This is from an engineering viewpoint. Great Mod!
Did something similar with my 76FJ40 on the taillights and the front indicators. Irregular sometime working flashers became rock solid.
I personally love doing wiring.
I learned in college, GROUNDS, GROUNDS,
GROUNDS.
Reading through the comments. God bless you Sqautch, didn't realize how many arm chair elechickens there are out there.. Nice mod. Paint isn't a great conductor indeed..
@@squatch253 I'll try to find you at Nowthen. I assume that "pro street' D2 will be on site?
Very neat. Nice vid 🙂
I like it. Sometimes necessary reliability has to trump the "period correct" design.
Excellent video! For those of us that limited mechanical background, you made a great video that is easy to understand and follow! Love your work in this series! Thanks, Jeff
I must say Well done sir. I've been a maintenance electrician for the last 40 years and that was a beautiful explanation and a solid execution to a ground issue improvement. Saves you buying a gross of star washers for every bolt and connection. 😎👍
Cool, now chuck em in the original parts bin and install some led pod lights.
Simple, excellent video!
Years ago I got tired of the winking lights on my trailers. Same procedure works on those lights as well. Just don’t forget to hook the white wire on the vehicle to a good ground.
When I first got my 1970 Volvo 4 years ago one of the first projects was to get dedicated grounds to the lighting, the most troublesome being the parking lights on the aluminium grill. Everything in that car used body contact grounds and it just doesn't allow full current over time. Eventually the dashboard switches and instrument panel will get proper grounds for everything.
Very nice and clean! Thanks for going into detail on how you did that!
a lot of tractors got this mod in the field, anyway. Not as professionally done though--scrape paint with a jack knife, drill a hole with a nail & wrap the wire around a screw. 😂 I have encountered period light housings with a factory threaded hole for an optional ground. they were likely not oe lights for IH but some suppliers understood the ground wire was going to be necessary. also the first generation sealed beams in the pancake lights from IH in the mid 1950s used an external ground screw for the beam so you could easily add a ground wire.
Excellent.
Works great. I did this same mod to my 2n Ford. Thanks Squatch!
Good to see you use "proper" solder, not that horrible lead free stuff! Nice job.
My friend and I do all our own wiring AND have done COMPLETE wiring systems in vehicles.
Great video we did this to our 140 back in the 70s. One thing we did on the bayonet light socket we drilled a 1/8 hole through to make sure the solder made direct contact with bulb base they are steel and tend to rust.We used 10/32 brass screw and nuts with rubber fawcet washers to attach the ground wire to on back of the light housing
I like the conversion.
Hi, man.
Please, consider using brass parts in electrical connections.
Agree with other posters, that's a nice, simple method to add grounding wire. I probably would have overthought it and wondered why it didn't work.
Thanks for the video and the process on how you accomplish this. You may want to double check inside. It looked as if the U clip rotated when you hooked the power spade up and either came very close to the ground lug or actually touched it,not sure if it matters ? Just saying. Thanks for video.
Very elegant solution. Well done.
I'm definitely going to be doing that to some of my green tractors that's a very clean way to do that I really like that
I needed a way to get electricity out of the trunk to the LED tail lights on my 1940 Ford. I chucked a fender bolt in my lathe and drilled it through the center.
If you don’t have punch’s a plumbing faucet washer is a quick substitute
The iron is always hotter than the joint or the work. Tip: Apply the solder to the heated joint, not the iron, you'll get better wetting/flow that way. The old Fabric and Rubber cord for those old heavy soldering irons is called "Gutta-Percha"; Fabric-covered Rubber tubing with Gutta-Percha paste (as the insulator) inside of it.
A good modification. My intuition would have been to run both ground and power through the existing hole and use a grommet to seal the wires. This assumes two wires fit through the original hole. A dab of silicone would finish the seal. Your way works great though.
I was thinking the same thing, if two core round cable was used it would practically indistiguishable from the original.
When I solder stuff like this (non-copper to copper wire) I use zinc chloride flux to tin the non-copper, then wash it well. For the rest I use rosin. You don't want any trace of a corrosive flux left, or your wire will dissolve over the years.
I think I would have removed the positive through connector and used a grommet in its place then feed a 2 conductor wire through the grommet. A black (or whatever color you want) cover over the wire would make it look like a single conductor (AKA factory). A connector could be used inside the housing if wanted to allow the removal of the headlight if necessary/wanted. grounding would take place where ever you want (ground terminal strip, direct to battery, etc.).
I guess you could use coaxial wire for the ultimate original look?
Its the same process on AC lights with the only difference being that AC ran their wires through the mounting rod so I was able to avoid drilling a hole to run the ground wire out and was able to run it parallel with the power wire. It's a much cleaner look, maybe IH should've been taking lessons 😂
Thanks for the video on how to do that. Definitely a better system. Leaving the lights that cool or repainting them? Thanks again Toby
Good video
I have a question. What is your opinion on replacing the incandescent bulbs with a LED bulbs? I am restoring/upgrading an Allis Chalmers model B tractor. It will not be a trailer queen, but a working tractor on a micro-farm. I have already done some upgrades. I have coveted from hand brakes to foot brakes, added a hydraulic pump (OEM) and a 3-point hitch. Planning on adding the radiator shudders, converting to electric start(12 volt system), and adding lights. I do have to swap the engine as it had gotten water into cylinder 3. Again not a show tractor but a working one. Just looking for an opinion here. Thanks
Thats a fist foe me watching someone solder with a branding iron.
Looks like a good old American Beauty soldering iron.
The whole point of the crimp is to allow flexibility. Now that its soldered it will be more prone to breaking due to vibration.
I don't know this tractor....but i think you now have to insulate the mounting connection. Reason being that if you have a faulty main ground, then you are going to ground through those little wires when you crank the starter?
I have always called that type bulb connection, a bayonet fitting.
Put a nut on the thread on that bolt on the clamp as well. Sucks when you see the glass fall on the ground. A nyloc should do wonders.
Awesome conversion, would've modded the plastic seal too, myself, but it's on the underside so it should do. Our H no longer has the original lights, they're probably from another tractor, likely one of our local European ones. A bit taller, double bulb with low and high options (for legal reasons so it can be road legal).
in 19 40 something fresh paint was the original locktite . then over time the manure in the air assisted. reassembly used crossthreading 😂
As you were explaining way direct ground works I couldn't help but start hearing it DRY BONES theme. Toe bone's connected to the foot bone. Foot bone's connected the ankle bone. Etc. ONLY here it's: Light bulb grounds at the socket. Socket grounds at the bucket. Bucket grounds at the bolt stud. Etc.
Personally, I would have run a two core cable through a compression gland in place of the hot terminal, then run the cable back to the instrument box and made all my connections in that. Been doing something similar on 6 an 12v bikes for years.
Great fix.
and the ankle bone in connected to ...
Are you keeping it a positive ground as well or converting it to a negative ground
@@squatch253 I agree, some items are a little more finicky about the ground but bulbs are not. The things you learn in 4 + yrs of electrical / electronics schooling as well as 20 plus yrs in that trade besides.
Keep on smiling and hopefully I will see you at a threshing show next week end or sometime soon.
Good and simple mod! Thanks for the tip!
I prefer a dedicated ground setup as well.
Good job 😊
Wonder if the contact ground lighting was a decision made by a bean counter because it would save them 10 cents?
It would be more difficult, since it seems to be attached to the housing, but you could drill a hole through the mounting stud and run the wire down though that, instead of drilling the housing. Also a little less visible.
Good Video👍
Did you use a stainless steel machine screw?
Thought you were going to upgrade to Holley Retrobright LED's. Wonder if they have the correct size round ones?
Love it
Brass hardware and LED bulbs?
I don't have a good punch set so I use the rubber washers made for water faucets, here almost all the Chinese bazaars have them in assorted packages for less than €1
I was just wondering, if you break a lens, will a par36 bulb retrofit into the housing? There are some nice LED par 36 bulbs on Amazon that I used to upgrade lighting on a truck mounted forklift for early morning deliveries.
Might I suggest I think my mental state requires the nut to always be placed inside so the outside view of the headlight shell would have a finished bolt head, not the the threaded bolt and nut 😛 IOW, turn them around so you don't see all the excess threads and nut 😛 But its not my tractor so you of course may do it however you want to do it 🙂
@@squatch253 True - but to my mind's eye, it would look better 🙂Thanks so much for your reply and putting up with all of us who comment & critique your work. You and senior do some great stuff while we get to watch.
I think I'd use some primer/paint to touch up that raw metal just to make me think I'm fighting off some rust.